Nissan Kingroad Questions

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SupraLux
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Nissan Kingroad Questions

Post by SupraLux »

Well, I'm expanding my horizons... extending my knowledge... well, being dragged kicking and screaming into areas I don't want to go :P

A mate has just sold his perfectly fine 70-series cruiser and bought a '94 Kingroad... nice poofy leather seats and all.

I have a few questions before I get dragged into doing a whole bunch of work on it.

Has anyone used one of the australian 6" suspension lift kits on one of these and if so, are they any good?

Can you fit the PTO winches to an auto? Or do you need the electric for them?

Can anyone decipher this plate or point me to a good site to do so. He was told its an LSD model.
Image

Dieselboy - is this the same model as yours - and if so did you find anythign re: lockers front and rear?

Does anyone want a fancy bullbar for one... this is gonna go when the winch gets fitted - will be replaced with something far more 'functional' :) Keen to swap it for a winch and basket. He hasn't come up with a straight cash price for it but I'll ask him if anyone is interested.
Image

Tyre sizes? What fits? what makes bigger tyres fit? :)

Thats enough questions for now...

Cheers in advance

Steve
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DieselBoy
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Re: Nissan Kingroad Questions

Post by DieselBoy »

SupraLux wrote:Well, I'm expanding my horizons... extending my knowledge... well, being dragged kicking and screaming into areas I don't want to go :P

A mate has just sold his perfectly fine 70-series cruiser and bought a '94 Kingroad... nice poofy leather seats and all.

I have a few questions before I get dragged into doing a whole bunch of work on it.

Has anyone used one of the australian 6" suspension lift kits on one of these and if so, are they any good?

Can you fit the PTO winches to an auto? Or do you need the electric for them?

Can anyone decipher this plate or point me to a good site to do so. He was told its an LSD model.
Image

Dieselboy - is this the same model as yours - and if so did you find anythign re: lockers front and rear?

Does anyone want a fancy bullbar for one... this is gonna go when the winch gets fitted - will be replaced with something far more 'functional' :) Keen to swap it for a winch and basket. He hasn't come up with a straight cash price for it but I'll ask him if anyone is interested.
Image

Tyre sizes? What fits? what makes bigger tyres fit? :)

Thats enough questions for now...

Cheers in advance

Steve



Is it a LWB?? 6" lift will be do-able, caster correction busheect , adjustable panhard rods, radious arm drop kits, ad adjustable rear control arms etc No good on a SWB, drive shaft just to short.

Better off with a 4" Sus and a 2"BL. You can go very high on a LWB as the drive shafts are pretty long.

PTO will not fit to an Auto, it works of the gear box.

You can get 35's under one, but you have to have the 2" BL and 2" sus lift as a minimum, or a big sus lift with altered suspension bump stops.

Just a note on the 6" sus lift, at the rear, you don';t have a lot to play with where the angle of the axle is concerned, it must be kept as close to its origional position as possible by using lengthend lowers and shortened upper control arms. you will need to relocate the filler plug and cut and reweld the spring platforms and shock mounts otherwise.

At the front, you will need a radious arm drop kit, you must have tried resting the handles of a wheel barrow on your shoulders and then trying to walk forwards with it??
Same principle here.

Far far better to go for the 4" sus and the 2" BL.

BL is pretty easy to do, you just have to play with the gear leavers.
Must do mine one day :wink:
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Post by DieselBoy »

H233B LS Rear Diff.

Axle Spline Count: 33 splines 33.3mm

Crown Wheel Diameter: 255mm

Crown Wheel to Carrier : 9 bolts

Front diff is H233 with 31 spline

Same diff as whats in mine.

Auto Lockers for the front are readily available, or an LSD from the rear of a WD21 Terrano

ARB is all thats available for the rear. Believe me, i have tried every thing.
There is a place in OZ that will make you an auto locker for $1200
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Post by DieselBoy »

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Post by DaveM »

Could you get a price on the bullbar, and if he is doing all those mods to the truck, go for the 5 link front end :twisted:

Dave
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Post by SupraLux »

Cheers for that info DB. and Dave - is there a 5-link kit you're refering to or do I have to invent it myself? There is a crowd in Oz making aftermarket high-lift radius arms - are they any good?

I understand the biggest problem is the gearbox is so damn massively long that the rear d-shaft is just two u-joints welded together, meaning a 50mm lift makes huge driveline vibration... would a double-cardan driveshaft fix that? (Like a Hilux front shaft but bigger to handle the pootroll torque)

Steve
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Post by DieselBoy »

Ah, right, so its a SWB.

Ok, there is no way in hell you want to be attempting a 6"sus lift with the standar D/S.

Just look at the drama i had with a 100mm.
Interesting to know if Dave has sorted his vibrations??
Dave??

I needed 10mm packers under the T.Case cross member and adjustable to arms. I still have a slight vibration.
I also reversed the D/S.
double cardin would definatly be needed for any higher, i'lltake a pic of the angle my reaf D/S runs at tonight along with daves PTO photo's.
You have to modify your rear control arms to bring the diff back down level as you run into problems with the shocks hitting the spring platforms, and the pinion running dry. (as mine did)

The best and most common/easiest mod is 2"sus and 2"B/L as i mentioned.

Apparently from what i have learnt on outlimits, the 5 link Kit is not all that great.
But i have no personal experience.

To fit 35's, all you need is a 2" B/L and 2" sus.

The arms are good, but you are best to run the standard rubber bushes in all the control/radious arms. They are designed so that they allow the arms to twist on the bush.

If ya want specialist Nissan stuff in NZ, give 4wd concepts a call in auclkand, thay have helped me out heaps so far!!!

http://www.4wdconcepts.co.nz/
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Post by DaveM »

If you have $$$ to burn, I'd go for a 5-6" lift, adjustable panhards etc etc, but remember people interperet lifts differently, as DB's now sits 100mm higher, which runs the same Tough Dog kit as I originally had, but TD list them as 2" lifts.

I now run Dobinson 3" coils and longer Pro Comp shocks, and there is quite a big difference again. I only run 12mm gearbox spacers and get driveline vibrations, but its bearable. I will be putting in heavy duty lower trailing arms (16mm longer than standard), or ordering adjustable lowers instead.

All depends on what use its getting. If its rock crawling style, you cant beat a 5 link for articulation, but you sacrafice on road and higher speed stability, which is why a lot of people don't use them and go for drop brackets or droped radius arms which are designed for lifts of 4" or more.

If you go up to 3" like I have, you save most of the costlier parts needed for a 4" like radius arms, panhard rods etc etc

I'll be down for the Waimak trip if your mate wants to get some idea of what a smaller lift is like. (If I had the money it would be a 6" lift though :evil: )



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Post by DieselBoy »

There is nothing to gain from a 6" lift other than trouble. Unless your gonna run 40" tyres in iceland.

Do the 2 + 2 and spend the $$ saved there on getting the good shit to get the front articulating.
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Post by DaveM »

There is nothing to gain from a 6" lift other than trouble.


Have to agree with you there. I just like the look of a 6" lifted swb :roll:

Mates 5" lifted one is bloody great, has HUGE articulation, runs drop arms etc etc, but you just about soil yourself when doing steep climbs/descents as it feels like it will tip.
Just suits the driving he does (rocky tracks in oz), and he's mad anyway so enjoys scaring his passengers.


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Post by klompy »

The other problem with Nissan PTO Winches is you can't winch and drive.You can only winch, if you drive at the same time it will bind up in the drive line.Not very clever but there you go. :roll:
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Post by DieselBoy »

I do it all the time :lol:

So do most people, winch challenges etc.

Its ok, provided the wheels are spinning and not getting full traction.
Last edited by DieselBoy on Fri Oct 07, 2005 7:12 am, edited 1 time in total.
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nissan kingroad

Post by wingy »

would that be why i brock the shearpin on my pto winch trying to winch and drive at the same time ??????
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Post by DieselBoy »

Unlikely, you possibly should have used a double purchase as you over loaded the winch. The shear pin being the weakest link.
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Post by monstr »

ok
Last edited by monstr on Fri Sep 14, 2007 2:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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SupraLux
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Post by SupraLux »

Since this has been dredged up from deep dark history, I'll drag it bakc on-topic :)

The lift we settled on was a locally made 80mm LWB set of springs - which gave about 100mm rear and 80 front. Used some Maxitrac shocks which were a little short (they are designed for 50mm lift) and were replaced with looong Ranchos some time after.

The gearbox needed packers, and the top links on the rear were lengthened along with the panhard rods. Vibration was minimal for what was achieved, although the articulation in the front was absolute rubbish - if it wasn't for the twin ARB lockers it would have been screwed.

All in all, a nice setup but with minimal articulation in the front (rear was ok).

Steve
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