Offroad-Express

I have been asked if i want to trade a 91 mitsi v6 with 2" body lift running 31" wranglers. what should i look out for on these trucks, and how do they go with the IFS? cheers Tony

moonhoper wrote:I have been asked if i want to trade a 91 mitsi v6 with 2" body lift running 31" wranglers. what should i look out for on these trucks, and how do they go with the IFS? cheers Tony

PM wacko

Cheers Skid,
I'm not Wacko so I won't reply.

viewtopic.php?f=18&t=2159&st=0&sk=t&sd=a

NJV6 wrote:Cheers Skid,
I'm not Wacko so I won't reply.

viewtopic.php?f=18&t=2159&st=0&sk=t&sd=a

yeah yeah yeah

I was gunna put down wacko and that other fulla, but I forgot



PM NJV6, he knows some stuff too

moonhoper wrote:I have been asked if i want to trade a 91 mitsi v6 with 2" body lift running 31" wranglers. what should i look out for on these trucks, and how do they go with the IFS? cheers Tony

A two inch body lift on 31s would be unnecessary, so it's probably had 33's on at some stage. I run 33s with no lift on the standard rims and no problems. ../viewtopic.php?f=24&t=9443 If the standard running boards are still fitted, check the mountings. They have a habit of tearing the panel up in behind the sills. Once you've checked them take 'em of and throw them away.

The handbrake cables are in a bad spot cos the actuator is mounted low. Hammering through deep mud can catch the cable and bend it between the link and the wheel. If you don't have lockers then that is a real problem because the disk brakes on these things are real good as a poor mans difflock

The IFS on Pajeros is IMNSHO the most sorted setup of them all. It's as tough as hell. The bottom wishbones are mounted wide and are built real solid. When CVs start to rattle on most jap IFS systems the drivers start to worry because the whole lot is likely to fall out in their laps. Pajero owners can just shrug and keep going cos they know it's going to stay together even if they destroy themselves. The down side of all this is that because of that we tend to throw the things at stuff harder so the occasional bent steering rod is the result. The outer CV boots can get a bit of a hammering as well and they get torn or knocked off. Can never understand why they don't have a heavy plastic shield to protect the boots like Ladas have.

I don't know squat about the V6 motors, I stick to my little 4D56T Oil Burner.

I thought you sold both yours to buy some german junk???

NJV6 wrote:I thought you sold both yours to buy some german junk???

Heh, I'm still attached to the white one, blue one is sold. The white one may get a Merc V8 transplant.

Just checking are you saying no problems running 33x12.5x15 on the standard 15x7 gen 2 pajero rims? are they easy to get certified (insurance purposes)?

Mine is a 2.8 diesel from what I have read on here 33's will fit but I was thinking I needed to go to 15x8 rims at least

northland_pajero wrote:Just checking are you saying no problems running 33x12.5x15 on the standard 15x7 gen 2 pajero rims? are they easy to get certified (insurance purposes)?

Mine is a 2.8 diesel from what I have read on here 33's will fit but I was thinking I needed to go to 15x8 rims at least

In terms of rubbing and so forth, no I don't have any problems. Having said that, I use Maxxis Buckshot Mudders and they're actually 32.3. However I've given the torsion bars a little bit of extra tweek and I don't have the extraneous plastic and such that comes with the bumpers. The standard rims are good for 12.5 and they have the advantage that you can run them down to 10 psi without them popping without tubes. For your WOF I would just leave the 33s on and they'll probably slide through. They are only just over the 5% threshold for speedo recal with full 33s on. With the buckshots however you are fractionally under: 4.2%. Unfortunately I coughed out $225 cert fee before I found that out.

Cheers

Im was thinking of going to 32's to stay under 105% of original but will go to 33's (that measure under 32.5) I was just concerned that 12.5 was too wide for a 7 inch wide rim.

How will they run on the open road at road pressures, its my daily drive and I also go down to Auckland quite often.

northland_pajero wrote:Cheers

Im was thinking of going to 32's to stay under 105% of original but will go to 33's (that measure under 32.5) I was just concerned that 12.5 was too wide for a 7 inch wide rim.

How will they run on the open road at road pressures, its my daily drive and I also go down to Auckland quite often.

I've used mine occasionally on reasonable trips at 38 psi, the road noise becomes a bit tiresome but other than that they seem pretty good. But I use my other Paj for daily trips and that has road tires on it so I couldn't comment on longevity. The toy, (the one in my avatar) pretty much only goes on the road to the mud and that's it.

The Pajero is my only vehicle, my partner has a toyota windy (corrolla) 3 door hatch that is too small for long trips so the Pajero gets used for the road trips. I have two sets of rims 31x10.5x15 A/Ts on Pajero Alloys (15x7) and 31x10.5x15 Muds on Safari steel rims (15x7).

The A/Ts are almost all worn out so the MTS will go on the alloys, and new muds on the steel rims, with the steel rims for playing and Alloys for road etc..... eventually 33's will be on the Alloys to wear them out.

I have a set of heavey duty tubes to go on the steel wheels when the new tyres go on them, then lower pressure still, but I understand the chance of punctures is higher.
Do you find tubes necessary or is 10psi low enough to get good traction with the 33's? Do you pop the beads often running at that pressure?