Offroad-Express

You try and buy a vehicle that everyone tells you is reliable and runs forever without any problems and then once you've bought it, you read all this stuff about how it's likely to overheat and crack the head and you think "nah not to me though" and then the next thing you know is you have coolant spraying all over your windscreen and white smoke billowing out of your exhaust!

One of them went a fair while ago (long before I bought it from CATHEDRAL CARS in Christchurch ) but all the cylinders have cracked.



Apparently it's being doing it for a while as it has this cratered effect around the piston where the water has been hammered into it.



So there you go! I always wondered what a cracked head looked like and now I know! Shame it's gonna cost in the region of $2500 to fix it. Darling, looks like we're changing the honeymoon this year to Ashburton!

what motor is the head off

friend of mine has got a head for a 2.4 for sale thats if its a 2.4. not sure wat he wants for it but i can find out.let me no if you keen or not

Yea i remember him saying on another post its a 2.4 so that sould be a 2lt-e.

what else do you expect running a 2lte they are so prone to blowing up it's not funny , did you put a more flowing exsaust on it

Can someone please point out what we are looking at in those photos? I don't know what a cracked head looks like and I can't seem to see anything in that photo for some reason...

what motor is the head off

What does it matter, the first photo says it all: notice the toyota symbol. Go hand in hand really

the cracks, look inbetween the valves.

time for a 3L head. how clogged up was the inlet manifold?

circled cracks, also comon for cracking in pre combustion chambers (big circle things at top of photo)

and toyotas are good why?

Thats where my old yota head cracked
How about a tardme head?
eg: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 231255.htm
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 863822.htm
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 863822.htm

Hey all,

Thanks for all the replies! I've been away for a long weekend and just got back.

Yup you got it. It's a 1993 2.4Lt Turbo Diesel, 2L-TE, the SSR-G model. The mechanic is pricing the job at the moment. He's already got a new head in from a supplier in Auckland but thanks heaps for all the info on getting another one.

So you can see the cracks that Comilux circled in the photo. The light grey mottled area is impact damage from the leaked water being pounded by the pistons (water doesn't compress).

I asked the mechanic to do a few jobs while he was in there - put a plate over the EGR to stop the hot exhaust gasses being recycled back into the engine, and also replace the worn fuel injectors and do the cambelt while he's at it. I'll be paying for his kid's education at this rate!

I'll let you know what it comes to when I get the bad news!

PS Tweake - I'm not sure how clogged up the inlet manifold was. I handed it over to the mechanic while it was still spewing steam at me and the next I saw was what you see in the photos!

My biggest worry is what if I pay for all this then it just bloody overheats again when I head out over Arthur's Pass or something. The head will be fixed but not the cause for the over-heating in the first place.

I read that I can prevent over-heating by improving the exhaust system, cheers Chopper01, it's just stock at the moment. Any other ideas? Any way I can shift things round in front of the radiator to allow more air flow thruogh the front of the car? Has any one replaced a head then cracked another one soon after?

I did the bigger exhaust thing, and got a thermostat that opened a little earlier than normal. Not sure if it made a difference, but was told to do it, so I did.
How about fitting a pyrometer? Might be a better guide as to whats happening with the motor, and help change driving style/habits to suit motor temp a little more?

ive got a 2lte for sale with 150000kms with 10000km old timing belt, injector pump overhauled and turbo (rebuilt),injectors and glow plugs replaced few months back at queens birthday weekend.
been well maintained, regular servicing etc

PM if interested

can be heard running, only removing as i have a 3.8 commy to go in.

Ryan

The troubles you have had with cracking your head has all been documented here before. If your cooling system is operating to manufacturers specifications it will not be the cooling system that has caused the head to crack. FIT AN EXHAUST TEMPERATURE PYROMETER and drive by it, when you see the temperatures that can be reached internally through combustion you will see why they crack. Do a forum search "Exhaust Gas Temperature" and have a read. I will PM you my phone # and you can give me a call and arrange to come and have a look at mine.

GETTING ALL HOT AND BOTHERD IN SOME INSTANCES IS FINE,

FITZY.

SMOKEY wrote:The troubles you have had with cracking your head has all been documented here before. If your cooling system is operating to manufacturers specifications it will not be the cooling system that has caused the head to crack. FIT AN EXHAUST TEMPERATURE PYROMETER and drive by it, when you see the temperatures that can be reached internally through combustion you will see why they crack. Do a forum search "Exhaust Gas Temperature" and have a read. I will PM you my phone # and you can give me a call and arrange to come and have a look at mine.

GETTING ALL HOT AND BOTHERD IN SOME INSTANCES IS FINE,

FITZY.

Listen to Fitzy, because he is right

Cheers Richard

don't change the temp range of the thermostat. too cold they run like crap. however just check that it works correctly, new ones are known to be faulty now and then.

clean out inlet manifold. these motors blow lots of oil into inlet manifold (due to fault in rocker cover, there is a fix from toyota or run catch can) which sombines with EGR and dust. this normally chokes the motor and causes it to run rich (due to lack of air) which can cause cracked heads.

big exhaust helps with temps a lot.
block EGR and disable EGR butterfly.

with 2.8 head and mods i doubt it will ever crack unless abused.

Cheers Fitzy and Tweake,

Yeah I started another post about that not long ago - when I took the top metal pipe off above the head (the one with EFI written on it that connects to the turbo - is that the inlet manifold?) it was quite oily inside. I didn't realise it helps cause over-heating. I'll have a look at putting an oil catch can on there.

Still waiting for the quote from the mechanic

Which do you think would be the best preventative measure to stop it over-heating again? Considering I'm putting in a brand new head and a new thermostat.

1. Replace the exhaust with one with better air flow

2. Clean out the inlet manifold and install oil catch can

3. Change driving style

4. Improve air flow into the engine bay - do you think the nudge bar's in the way?? (see truck photo on avatar)

In all honestly, I've done bugger all off-roading in it and very little hill driving. I guess the fact that it cracked before I bought it 4 or 5 months ago shows that it could have been anything as who's to know what the last guy did with it?

I think the reason it overheated is partly to do with me messing with one of the fuel injectors. I broke the leakage pipe and knocked the injector so the fuel flow was out. I tried to patch it up and drove it to a garage and it was struggling all the way and blowing smoke! This was probably the nail in the coffin really.

PS. If anyone reading this wants to see more cracked head photos plus some tips for removing the head, check out:

http://toyotasurf.asn.au/forum/viewtopic.php?p=121346&highlight=cracked+head+exhaust#121346

Do 1 and 2, also remove the radiator and get it cleaned (just in case) if you do tyhe exhaust get a Pyrometer on it , it will tell you when to jump out and stretch your leg's. Both Bullet proof and Fitzy have pyrometers setup and in Bullet proofs thread in New Members he shows how he mounted his.

Cheers Steve.

Is it worth putting in one of these? Looks like it's within my price bracket and easy enough for me to install! Or is it just a waste of time: http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/techsite/auxtemp.htm

I would stick with the pyro guage. Drive by that, and you will be fine. I have one for the Safari, just waiting till I get a new exhaust before I fit.

True. Ah well, looks like I'll just replace the head and get the cambelt done for now. And then I'll just be careful how I drive and take a break every now and again.

I really wanted to use it to head up to Golden Bay at some point. Hopefully it doesn't throw its toys in the middle of nowhere!

I know when Mike did the head on his he got it cryo treated? I think. Wouldn't hurt to ask him about it. Had it done here in Ch Ch too.

Cryo treated? Did he put a second hand head on? This one's new. I've just got the quote. I've asked them to do a few other things as well and boy does it add up!

1. Cleaning & Sealers - $30
2. Cylinder Head Assembly - $859.97
3. Head Bolt Set, Gasket & Gasket Set - $243.29
4. Injector Service - $243.20
5. Head Machining - $229.60
6. Water Pump - $73.80
7. Cambelt Kit - $196.40
8. Three drive belts - $91.60
9. Radiator Clean & Anti freeze refill - $158.50
10. Thermostat - $37.30
11. 4 x Glow plugs - $120.80

All exclude GST.

Labour is 22 hours (although he said it may be less and if so he'll reduce the price) and involves:

Replace head, service & repair injectors, clean radiator, replace water pump, do cambelt & front seals, remove EGR system, replace outer drive belts, replace glow plugs, reassemble engine, road test.

Total comes to: $4301.46 including GST

Crikey!

Lincoln wrote:1. Replace the exhaust with one with better air flow

2. Clean out the inlet manifold and install oil catch can

2 first, 1 second
clean inlet manifold is a must, otherwise you will simply crack the next head.
extra temp guage is because factory one only reads hot AFTER you have cooked the motor

Haha Toyota obviously don't want you to know about the damage until it's too late - then they get more business when you come to them for parts!

The mechanic says they'll fully clean out the inlet manifold when they do the work, as well as remove the radiator and give it a proper clean.

Just need to go make friends with the bank manager now!

Lincoln wrote:Total comes to: $4301.46 including GST

Crikey!

Ouch.
What's a 3L cost these days? Would it bolt in and take your 2LT turbo?

Yeah I dunno. A few people have mentioned that. I was a bit hastey though and the mechanic's already got the head from Auckland and is installing it all today.

Mates have said that I could have got a second hand engine for that price (my mate's 3L blew up at the same time and he's got a 96 engine through his dad for $3600) but that doesn't include the wrench time and then there's the radiator clean, cambelts, injector service etc. etc. etc.

Ah well. It's being repaired. Can't wait to have it back. Think I might spend the night in it!! Haha speaking of which, there's a programme on tonight at 9:30pm called "My car is my lover" about blokes that actually want to "sleep" with their cars. It might actually be quite a disturbing watch!

At least you know the heritage of this engine. You know what its condition is and with all the bits and pieces you are having done should (touch wood) be problem free if driven wisely for the future.

A second hand engine could be a grenade with the pin pulled waiting for an inopportune time to blow. And you could end up where you are now with less $$$ in your pocket. (Buy cheap pay twice)

Second guessing your desicion now is pointless, take heed in the fact your engine now is a known factor.

Heath