Having finally lifted the engine up I thought to check the t case mounts and they have let go some time ago (not me I havent gone off road yet - thats another story). I am assuming they were stretched when the new engine was put in (11 years ago) to get the engine clear of the firewall). Now I figured that with the engine up a bit maybe I should tuck the tcase up a tad also, but now it would seem it will have to go forwards about 5mm also.
Now comest the good bit - how hard is it to fabricate a low profile xmember? Or does anyone have they dont want.
I figured that it could be a way of killing two birds with one stone (more clearance and a slight shift forwards.
Or should I just slot the chassis maounts and slide the whole lot forwards (and lift the tcase) and put up with the factory lump hanging there?
Heath
hilux crossmember
Hey, yeah I designed one for the 'lux - The base crossmember is 60mm thick, so I get a 2" lift under the truck by making it from 10mm plate. I also lifted mine by 25mm so I got 3" (75mm) of clearance by fitting it.
I can have another made to the same spec for you, with the mounting moved if neccessary...
Steve
I can have another made to the same spec for you, with the mounting moved if neccessary...
Steve
Yeah I'm real interested.
Do they just bolt on in place of the original? (can't weld for shit)
What sort of lead time to get one made and (the big one) how much$$$?
I figure that if I slotted the holes (chassis mounts) I could then transfer it to my next wagon (or onsell it) when its time to change.
I'd be looking at lifting it also but may do that with a block so the xmember stays std height (for next project).
I guess the first thing is to get the mount replaced (doing the Shore safari in 4 weeks (my build goal date) and didnt need this now).
Thanks,
Heath
Do they just bolt on in place of the original? (can't weld for shit)
What sort of lead time to get one made and (the big one) how much$$$?
I figure that if I slotted the holes (chassis mounts) I could then transfer it to my next wagon (or onsell it) when its time to change.
I'd be looking at lifting it also but may do that with a block so the xmember stays std height (for next project).
I guess the first thing is to get the mount replaced (doing the Shore safari in 4 weeks (my build goal date) and didnt need this now).
Thanks,
Heath
Ok, well heres the basic rundown:
The crossmember bolts to the standard 8 holes (4 at one end are slotted to allow for fitting misalignment) using the standard 8 bolts (although I would recommend replacing them - but metric fine M12 bolts are not cheap so re-using the originals is a good option
)
The basic 10mm plate crossmember is $195 with a bolt-on 6mm skidplate being $90 extra including hardware. I don't have a photo of it - but its quite similar to the budbuilt ones available from the US, just cheaper.
I can take a photo of mine, which doesn't have the skidplate - I sold the two I had with skidplates without taking photos first - I'll be making some more soon and will take photos then. The price is for steel finish - painted black $10 extra - powdercoated POA - Chromed bling bling version - go away, I don't do that
Steve
The crossmember bolts to the standard 8 holes (4 at one end are slotted to allow for fitting misalignment) using the standard 8 bolts (although I would recommend replacing them - but metric fine M12 bolts are not cheap so re-using the originals is a good option
)
The basic 10mm plate crossmember is $195 with a bolt-on 6mm skidplate being $90 extra including hardware. I don't have a photo of it - but its quite similar to the budbuilt ones available from the US, just cheaper.
I can take a photo of mine, which doesn't have the skidplate - I sold the two I had with skidplates without taking photos first - I'll be making some more soon and will take photos then. The price is for steel finish - painted black $10 extra - powdercoated POA - Chromed bling bling version - go away, I don't do that
Steve
no
The topic has been HiJacked!... Mike! Mike!... they're hijacking the topic Mike... Mike?... Miiiiiiike!
Damn theiving hijackers
Oh, and to prove I'm not just perpetuating the hijack, heres a pic I 'borrowed' from the budbuilt site which looks remarkably like the ones I manufacture (and remarkably like the ones everyone all around the world manufactures)
Steve
Damn theiving hijackers
Oh, and to prove I'm not just perpetuating the hijack, heres a pic I 'borrowed' from the budbuilt site which looks remarkably like the ones I manufacture (and remarkably like the ones everyone all around the world manufactures)
Steve
MATT4U wrote:Here are Steve's ones
Going to ignore that
The day someone posts a photo of my ones on the net I'm gonna be really mad
The lifted crossmember is for trucks with at least a body lift of the same amount. It will put a slight tweak on the angle the engine mounts run on, although I never broke a mount on mine or had any problems.
The other thing it will do is put the rear d/shaft on a slightly different angle, and likewise with the front (improves the front, increases the rear) - but not enough to make any major difference to anything - although with a split d/shaft in the rear and a setup with much more droop than normal it can help cause a slight 'grinding' of the centre bearing under full droop.
Steve