Offroad-Express

Needing to fabricate some series chassis parts, namely outriggers and rear cross member (this list may grow). From reading around on the Internet it seems that the entire chassis uses 3mm steel and most people say to use a MIG welder.

Questions:

• Why MIG over ARC - easier to weld with?
• How many amps should the welder have - 100amp?
• No 2nd hand MIG welder I've seen comes with a gas bottle, why and where does one get them from, costs?
• Which grade (tensile strength?) 3mm steel is required?
• How can I cut and bend 3mm steel in my own garage with a DIY budget?

Thanks.

Heres my 2c to your questions. What kinda landy have you got?

1. Migs are much easier to weld with and leave a nicer weld.
2. Depends on what you want to do. If you're only welding 3mm you wont need a big welder. 150amp is plenty, but if you are wanting to do bigger stuff its best to buy around the 200amp mark
3. Hire them from boc gas. When you do make sure you get argoshield and not co2
4. Its not rated. Any old bits of 3mm plate is fine (as long as its mild steel)
5. Buy a grinder to cut stuff (you will need one. Don't skimp and buy a cheap one unless you want to replace often) Ive found a 5" is the most helpful.

Im not sure that you are able to bend 3mm nicely and cheaply for big peices like xmembers. You can scour it with a grinder and put in a vice and whack it, or even just do it without scouring first.

two sections of heavy wall angle put the two in the vise with steel to be bent between then tap over with a hammer
mig is a low hydrogen weld, ie low water content and is stronger

When I need to get stuff cut or folded like that I just go and see the local engineering places. They are usually pretty good about doing small bits like that especially if you aren't in a hurry.

I wouldn't buy a welder less than 200amps if you are going to buy one. The price difference isn't massive.

Matt.

Mattman wrote:When I need to get stuff cut or folded like that I just go and see the local engineering places. They are usually pretty good about doing small bits like that especially if you aren't in a hurry.

I wouldn't buy a welder less than 200amps if you are going to buy one. The price difference isn't massive.

Matt.

I would agree with that. I have a number of Landrovers and have Series 1 that I have completely built the out riggers because of rust. I cut the original off with and angle grinder ,took it to an engineering firm and said copy this.I then mig welded it back on .
I have a 175 mig but wished it was bigger so go for 200+ and you wont regret it. I also have a 300 amp arc so that does my heavy stuff.

Cheers Richard

Migs are much easier to weld with and leave a nicer weld.

depends entirely on operators ability, I find Arc easy to use but in different applications. eg panel steel, arc is to uncontrolable, where Mig is hard to get good penetration on thicker metals.

When you do make sure you get argoshield and not co2

huh!! argosheild is just a mixture of argon and Co2 gas. Can use Co2 (cheeper)with normal mig wire ,it just spalters a bit more which can easily be removed.
cheers

You could just buy the parts you need from here http://www.paddockspares.com/sp/categor ... ggers.html although freight might be a killer.
Try Marcel at Mamaku 4WD pretty sure he sells outriggers and or cross members http://www.finda.co.nz/business/listing ... u-4wd-ltd/

DJ wrote:

Migs are much easier to weld with and leave a nicer weld.

depends entirely on operators ability, I find Arc easy to use but in different applications. eg panel steel, arc is to uncontrolable, where Mig is hard to get good penetration on thicker metals.

When you do make sure you get argoshield and not co2

huh!! argosheild is just a mixture of argon and Co2 gas. Can use Co2 (cheeper)with normal mig wire ,it just spalters a bit more which can easily be removed.
cheers

if i remember right co2 gives better penetration or in other word a hotter weld, down side is more weld splatter and less "attractive" weld

Arogshield gives a better weld appearance or a flatter bead and less splatter

am using flux core wire with co2 gas at present, you set the amps and weld flat, vertical over head on same setting, very clean smoothe weld, minimal splatter, just got to clean slag off the weld, but very nice to use, loads of fume thou

pedro

Bulletproof wrote:I have a 175 mig but wished it was bigger so go for 200+ and you wont regret it. I also have a 300 amp arc so that does my heavy stuff.

Cheers Richard

Just keep in mind the power supply required.
Up to 200 amps for a mig and they can usually run off a stanard 10amp wall socket. Around 200 amps they should have a 15 amp socket, above that you're probably heading towards 3 phase.

Not everyone has 3 phase power where they want to weld.

as if said before use you stove power points as they are set for higher loads than wall sockets

coxsy wrote:as if said before use you stove power points as they are set for higher loads than wall sockets

You're allowed to weld in the kitchen?

My mate owns the original factory jigs for 88" chassis. He just buys the steel as individually cut pieces that fit in the jig then they just get mig'd up and then sent to the galvanisers. They're a bit heavier coz of the zinc but hey, they're galvanised and ready to fit. He used to have a mechanic who could do a chassis change on a 110 in less than a day.
The guy is a legend.

You're allowed to weld in the kitchen
no but run a lead outside ,can't do it now we have a wall oven

I got a sparky to fit a 15 amp socket and a slow blow fuse (dont know tech term for it) in my garage for my 180AMP Arc welder.