Offroad-Express

hey all
Just wondering what people are running in the way of egt gauges?? and where ya got them from,,,,cost etc ?? need to fit one cheers
Bushrash

Bushrash wrote:hey all
Just wondering what people are running in the way of egt gauges?? and where ya got them from,,,,cost etc ?? need to fit one cheers
Bushrash

I do all my driving by the pyrometer and it gives peace of mind knowing what is happening.

Mine is an Oceanic VDO that the Ships use with a range up to 900 C. but they are expensive . I paid around 650-700 dollars after a good discount but some of my friends have other ones around half of that and they seem happy .

I wouldn't be without one.
Cheers Richard

From another post http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp ... &SUBCATID=

Yep, Oceanic VDO from Autocraft, expensive but what price is knowledge of what your engine's doing...

Damn handy little device. Just back from a drive now. Didn't think knowing what is happening would make such a difference but Richard is right on the button when he says drive by them (seems counter-intuitive at times). Normally climbing this hill I only had water temperature gauge to go by and I was always getting up close to 90C. Using pyro and driving in gears to keep the heat down (250-450C) I hardly got over 60DegC water temp and I still made it to the top in the same time as usual.

Hey
yeah thinking it will be a handy tool,,just looking at different brands ,,, and setting it up and having a play on my na engine to get the drift of things and plumbed ,,, then put in on my turbo engine you guys running the sender pre turbo i presume??
cheers

Bushrash wrote:Hey
yeah thinking it will be a handy tool,,just looking at different brands ,,, and setting it up and having a play on my na engine to get the drift of things and plumbed ,,, then put in on my turbo engine you guys running them pre turbo i presume??
cheers

Nuh, running it on a normally aspirated diesel, no turbo. Been reading around and some folk reckon you need them on NA diesels more than on turbo'ed ones. Dunno what to think of that but just like knowing what the loud pedal does to the EGT's

I got these 2 from http://www.engineparts.net.nz/ About $400 for both

Windsock wrote:

Bushrash wrote:Hey
yeah thinking it will be a handy tool,,just looking at different brands ,,, and setting it up and having a play on my na engine to get the drift of things and plumbed ,,, then put in on my turbo engine you guys running them pre turbo i presume??
cheers

Nuh, running it on a normally aspirated diesel, no turbo. Been reading around and some folk reckon you need them on NA diesels more than on turbo'ed ones. Dunno what to think of that but just like knowing what the loud pedal does to the EGT's

My hilux runs a supercharger and intercooler that is manually controlled. With out the supercharger turned on it is very scarey as the pyrometer very quickly will rise from 400 to 700 within seconds rather than minutes going up a hill. The boost from the charger reduces it instantly 150 C .So a NA motor definately needs one more than a boosted motor.

Cheers Richard

Bulletproof wrote:

Windsock wrote:

Bushrash wrote:Hey
yeah thinking it will be a handy tool,,just looking at different brands ,,, and setting it up and having a play on my na engine to get the drift of things and plumbed ,,, then put in on my turbo engine you guys running them pre turbo i presume??
cheers

Nuh, running it on a normally aspirated diesel, no turbo. Been reading around and some folk reckon you need them on NA diesels more than on turbo'ed ones. Dunno what to think of that but just like knowing what the loud pedal does to the EGT's

My hilux runs a supercharger and intercooler that is manually controlled. With out the supercharger turned on it is very scarey as the pyrometer very quickly will rise from 400 to 700 within seconds rather than minutes going up a hill. The boost from the charger reduces it instantly 150 C .So a NA motor definately needs one more than a boosted motor.

Cheers Richard

but richard, wont your motor work harder with the supercharger turned off because its trying to suck the air through the screws which are stationary (or near it) rather than a NA motor which is just sucking through a pipe?

cool__bananas wrote:
but richard, wont your motor work harder with the supercharger turned off because its trying to suck the air through the screws which are stationary (or near it) rather than a NA motor which is just sucking through a pipe?

No I run a complete dual air system so no air is being taken through supercharger at all when it is turned off. It is controlled through a butterfly so is a completely naturally aspirated engine when the supercharger is off.

cheers Richard

ohk, that sounds good

2MEKE wrote:I got these 2 from http://www.engineparts.net.nz/ About $400 for both

hey thanks ,,,,they come with senders??if they do the egt a screw in sender?? ,,lot of our race guys run autometer gear seems to be ok cheers

Bushrash wrote:they come with senders?? if they do the egt a screw in sender??

Both came with senders....I used the supplied hex nipple to install mine but it also came with a fibre washer, clamp, and collar for installation into exhaust tubing.

Here's mine

I'm also running VDO. The different ranges are AFAIK just different styles. Mine is black with green backlight to match my factory dials.

NA diesels don't need them because the smoke out the back tells you everything you need to know. It's diesels that are forced induction (turbo and supercharged) which can reach the truely dangerous levels without much smoke.

If it's smokin, it'll soon be broken.

KiwiBacon wrote: NA diesels don't need them because the smoke out the back tells you everything you need to know. It's diesels that are forced induction (turbo and supercharged) which can reach the truely dangerous levels without much smoke.

yep, that'd be right, but with a wing mirror constantly getting banged off the veiw of the tail pipe and it being somewhat odd behavior to be looking backwards while going forwards, I have found the EGT gauge beside the steering wheel to be a simple solution that satisfies a morbid curiosity about what of my behavior causes the engine to get hot and what cools it again...

Windsock wrote:yep, that'd be right, but with a wing mirror constantly getting banged off the veiw of the tail pipe and it being somewhat odd behavior to be looking backwards while going forwards, I have found the EGT gauge beside the steering wheel to be a simple solution that satisfies a morbid curiosity about what of my behavior causes the engine to get hot and what cools it again...

What sort of readings are you getting?
I have a NA work car which I will eventually turbo, I hope to fit the EGT gauge sometime before the turbo goes in.

KiwiBacon wrote: What sort of readings are you getting?
I have a NA work car which I will eventually turbo, I hope to fit the EGT gauge sometime before the turbo goes in.

1984 Land rover 110 powered by 1986 LD28 in good condition 170000km - redline 5000rpm (now got car tacho transplanted into LR)
4500rpm getting outa mud - 550-650C
2000rpm climbing Takapari road - 250-300C in appropriate gear
2000rpm climbing Takapari road - 500C+ in too higher gear
3000rpm along the flat road and calm wind - 400C
3000rpm along flat road and into headwind - 550C
2000rpm cruising along tracks low 4WD - 250C
idle and cold <100C
Down the driveway, onto road and into 3rd gear before gauge shows 100C
idle and hot 150 -200C

All in all I think all reading are expected and well within acceptable levels. Real eyeopner though... headwind one was interesting - LR has aerodynamics of a flying brick sideways

Driving behavior is now modofied somewhat with respect to gear selection on climbs... I use moreys additive and so smoke is somewhat minimal when it is there.

Should add to that due to limited suitable placements I am only monitoring cylinders 4, 5, & 6

KiwiBacon wrote:I'm also running VDO. The different ranges are AFAIK just different styles. Mine is black with green backlight to match my factory dials.

NA diesels don't need them because the smoke out the back tells you everything you need to know. It's diesels that are forced induction (turbo and supercharged) which can reach the truely dangerous levels without much smoke.

If it's smokin, it'll soon be broken.

what did ya vdo gauge set ya back kiwi??sounds like the sort of set up i need cheers

Bushrash wrote:what did ya vdo gauge set ya back kiwi??sounds like the sort of set up i need cheers

It was heaps, somewhere over $400 I think and that was with a good discount.
You can get EGT gauges cheaper online but it can be hard to find metric ones.

Windsock wrote:

KiwiBacon wrote: What sort of readings are you getting?
I have a NA work car which I will eventually turbo, I hope to fit the EGT gauge sometime before the turbo goes in.

1984 Land rover 110 powered by 1986 LD28 in good condition 170000km - redline 5000rpm (now got car tacho transplanted into LR)
4500rpm getting outa mud - 550-650C
2000rpm climbing Takapari road - 250-300C in appropriate gear
2000rpm climbing Takapari road - 500C+ in too higher gear
3000rpm along the flat road and calm wind - 400C
3000rpm along flat road and into headwind - 550C
2000rpm cruising along tracks low 4WD - 250C
idle and cold <100C
Down the driveway, onto road and into 3rd gear before gauge shows 100C
idle and hot 150 -200C

All in all I think all reading are expected and well within acceptable levels. Real eyeopner though... headwind one was interesting - LR has aerodynamics of a flying brick sideways

Driving behavior is now modofied somewhat with respect to gear selection on climbs... I use moreys additive and so smoke is somewhat minimal when it is there.

You're far from burning anything with those temps.
Your engine is at it's peak efficiency just before it starts to smoke, changing down a gear uses a whole lot more.

KiwiBacon wrote:

Bushrash wrote:what did ya vdo gauge set ya back kiwi??sounds like the sort of set up i need cheers

It was heaps, somewhere over $400 I think and that was with a good discount.
You can get EGT gauges cheaper online but it can be hard to find metric ones.

cool mate might see what i can get an autometer one through my suppliers for,,,hey you had much to do with the safari brand turbo kits???for the td 42??

KiwiBacon wrote: You're far from burning anything with those temps.
Your engine is at it's peak efficiency just before it starts to smoke, changing down a gear uses a whole lot more.

Yep, sure thing. Given that I have read of many different "hot" temperatures, 720-770C appears to be the level some folk say damage occurs at. So, yeah, no where near at normal driving. Only really pushed it the once getting outta the mud that - 650C briefly. All the temps listed have been with an empty flat deck and steady driving. Purposely haven't gone anywhere with a big load on the truck since installing gauge to assess what empty truck EGTs were. Now I have figured a sort of status quo EGT level, I can now load it up and see if loads make any serious inroads towards higher temps.

Found out today also, drafting behind a big freight truck lowered the EGTs by 70C...

Bushrash wrote:It was heaps, somewhere over $400 I think and that was with a good discount.
You can get EGT gauges cheaper online but it can be hard to find metric ones.

cool mate might see what i can get an autometer one through my suppliers for,,,hey you had much to do with the safari brand turbo kits???for the td 42??[/quote]

Nah haven't had anything to do with aftermarket turbo kits. Looks like the hardest part of turbocharging a TD42 is finding a manifold. From there it's just a plumbing job.

i might have completly missed this but what exactly does a egt gauge do? just tell you the exhaust temp which lets you know how hard the motor is working?

cool__bananas wrote:i might have completly missed this but what exactly does a egt gauge do? just tell you the exhaust temp which lets you know how hard the motor is working?

Yes, exactly that.

91Rangie wrote:From another post http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp ... &SUBCATID=

How do you find it ?? Also can you read it in the dark?

Windsock wrote:

KiwiBacon wrote: You're far from burning anything with those temps.
Your engine is at it's peak efficiency just before it starts to smoke, changing down a gear uses a whole lot more.

Yep, sure thing. Given that I have read of many different "hot" temperatures, 720-770C appears to be the level some folk say damage occurs at. So, yeah, no where near at normal driving. Only really pushed it the once getting outta the mud that - 650C briefly. All the temps listed have been with an empty flat deck and steady driving. Purposely haven't gone anywhere with a big load on the truck since installing gauge to assess what empty truck EGTs were. Now I have figured a sort of status quo EGT level, I can now load it up and see if loads make any serious inroads towards higher temps.

Found out today also, drafting behind a big freight truck lowered the EGTs by 70C...

Damage can occur before your 770C as steel glows red hot around 700 C and turbo fins can burn around 750C and also pistons can distort at those temperatures . Most ships maintain temperatures in the 400s.

With My hilux I work between 450-550 degrees C and have done so for the last 40,000 k with no noticable damage.

Cheers Richard

Bulletproof wrote:Damage can occur before your 770C as steel glows red hot around 700 C and turbo fins can burn around 750C and also pistons can distort at those temperatures . Most ships maintain temperatures in the 400s.

With My hilux I work between 450-550 degrees C and have done so for the last 40,000 k with no noticable damage.

Cheers Richard

The parts in your engines exhaust ports are specifically designed to handle exhaust temps that hot. The main feature being conducting heat away by contact with cooler parts. The valves conduct heat to the head and guides, the pistons conduct heat through the rings to the block and the oil squirters underneath.
Basically when your exhaust temps are at 750C, there is nothing in a healthy engine which will be at 750C.

Most turbos can withstand 900C. I've come across an american who routinely runs his engine up to 1700F (930C). Turbochargers are made to take that.
This is him here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sr9GSnDmZyM&feature=user

Ships are very slow engines which gives the gas a long time to cool. 400C on a ship is much hotter in the cylinder than 400C in your or my engine.
450-550C is giving away your engines best efficiency point.

Richard, where is your EGT probe located ? those temperatures seem to be very low to me. I know your motor is fitted with an extractor exhaust, is it four into one and is the probe at the collector ?????. My 2LTE ( 2.4 turbo Toyota ) has the probe in the exhaust manifold just before the turbo mounting flange where it can read all four cylinders and where my research told me you should be about 7 to 8 inches from the exhaust valve, in my case it is the head ports. If I was to drive at 450/550deg C I would be idling around, I drive mine up to 650 with the 700 deg C reached for very short duration and cruise with the caravan on the back at 600 deg C all day. I would never own another diesel with out fitting a EGT gauge, like you I drive to it all the time and despite what 2's says about the 2.4 mine just clocked up over 200,000 km and hasn't gone = boom .

KEEP COOL MAN,

FITZY.