Offroad-Express

Just wondering about this truck and weather there maitenance heavy as i have heard that they can be, currently got a pto'd safari and its gold. How would they compare?

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 794096.htm

It looks like a good one and being a Rover fan (I have a Tdi Disco for family and a RR for play) I think they are awesome.

I admit to being biased, I am a UK import too!

Realistically you have a strong box chassis, good power from a light alloy engine, superb articulation from beams and coils all round and a practical user friendly body.

Yes the electrics can be trouble and parts can be more as there tends to be a thinking that Rover owners have deep pockets so the wreckers charge like wounded bulls.

A bonus is there are loads of websites and forums worldwide to look for advice and tips if it does play up.

I say go for it - others will undoubtedly disagree...............

Stick with the safari, if not, let me know how much you want for the winch

followed that LR around in the Perongia TEpahu safari goes well good price too

Are these the ones that blow up diffs when they feel like it?, may be better off keeping the coal burner .... well thats my 5 cents anyway.

They are very capable off road and on road. Lighter than the Safari or Cruisers and are very nimble.

Personally I think this one is priced a little too high, even with all the extra's.
You can buy these for as little as $2500 in good condition so you have to add up are the extras in their used and abused state worth the additional $5000 he is asking.

Jerry wrote:Are these the ones that blow up diffs when they feel like it?, may be better off keeping the coal burner .... well thats my 5 cents anyway.

And to Jerry's comment.........what would he know about Land Rovers other than to put them down? probably has to because of his inferior complex with his "POS". (his title)

And to Jerry's comment.........what would he know about Land Rovers other than to put them down? probably has to because of his inferior complex with his "POS". (his title)

ok so what about the 4 diffs Cloggy has gone thru on his , from what I have heard both the 10 bolt and 24 bolt diffs do it, only salisburys are the way to fix them. If I was putting them down I would have called them a piece of S...., they seem very capable out of the box apart from the broken diffs. and you leave my POS out of it.....get your own POS.

cloggy only broke them because his foot is made of 100kg of led . A locker will fix the weak diff head, or you can upgrade to the 24 spline stuff (or 10 bolt as jerry calls it). Reason for the diffs breaking is rover diffs dont like to have one wheel spinning. The spider gears weld them selves to the pin and oval out the hole. The slackness in the pin hole is what causes the pin to break and thus throw the gears out.

Easily fixed with locker or salisbury or you can get an engineer to put a toyota diff in the centre.

LR's are very capable out of the box, have v8's, are coil sprung and are very comfortable. Though if not taken care of (regular maintenence) they will not like it

Jerry wrote:

And to Jerry's comment.........what would he know about Land Rovers other than to put them down? probably has to because of his inferior complex with his "POS". (his title)

ok so what about the 4 diffs Cloggy has gone thru on his , from what I have heard both the 10 bolt and 24 bolt diffs do it, only salisburys are the way to fix them. If I was putting them down I would have called them a piece of S...., they seem very capable out of the box apart from the broken diffs. and you leave my POS out of it.....get your own POS.

The diffs aren't 10 bolt and 24 bolt. They are almost identical and interchangable. It's the axles that come in either 10 spline or 24 spline version.
Can you break them if you drive like an idiot? Certainly.
But my rover is 2.3t and it can light up tyres on dry tarmac. 10 spline survived that fine.

turoa wrote:
Easily fixed with locker or salisbury or you can get an engineer to put a toyota diff in the centre.

LR's are very capable out of the box, have v8's, are coil sprung and are very comfortable. Though if not taken care of (regular maintenence) they will not like it

I agree they are one of the most capable trucks and that without mods.

I disagree when it comes to quality, they are absolute rubbish. One of my best mates had the highly modified " Strange Rover" and even with the 110 diffs and ARB lockers front and back still broke diffs. There wasn't a single day the bonnet was not up.
He moved back from 35s to 33s to solve the problem and still broke diffs.

Thats my thoughts and I own 3 landrovers so am not biased.

Cheers Richard

Bulletproof wrote:Thats my thoughts and I own 3 landrovers so am not biased.

I have a couple and am highly biased

AndrewGutsell wrote:Just wondering about this truck and weather there maitenance heavy as i have heard that they can be?

Back to original question, no they are not 'maintenance heavy' if it is done regularly like most vehicles.
ignore and abuse them and you will pay a price, again as with any other vehicle.

The V8's need regular oil changes. The pre face lift model you referred to has minimum electrics unlike later models so shouldn't have too much to worry about there.

As for the diffs, it is as already stated, its how it is driven. Drive hard spinning wheels and you will end up breaking a diff.

Like all others here we all tend to be biased to the vehicles we own although some are more so than others. Yes, I have a Discovery, but also have a foot in the toyota and Jeep camps as well.

turoa wrote:cloggy only broke them because his foot is made of 100kg of led

The accelerator is an on/off switch isn't it?

I have owned mine for 5 or 6 years. In that time I've had my fair share of broken diffs. Since putting the Salisbury in the rear I haven't had a single diff issue. I recently put in a 110 front end with the strong CV's. I can now give it snot knowing it won't break. I run 235/85 R 16 tyres which are shade under 32" tall. Other than that (the diffs) it's been pretty reliable. It doesn't get maintained like it deserves. I am not known for changing oil regularly. I only fix something when it breaks. Preventative maintenance is something I have yet to discover. I can't remember when I last popped the bonnet. What I do remember is that it wasn't to maintain the engine, just to hook an electric tyre pump to the battery.
One other idiotic feature of these (other than the weak diffs), is the location of the front steering tierod. It is situated behind the diff but it is the lowest point of the car (not including the diff housings). This means some care is needed traversing rocky rivers or tracks with deep wheel ruts as these tie rods are easily bent. This can be easily and cheaply fixed by sleeving the stock tie rod with a larger diameter tube.
The electrics haven't given me the trouble which people always seem to have. Certainly no more than I would expect from a car which has done over 200k and spend a far amount of time in dusty, damp and muddy conditions. The windows switches play up a little know and then but a quick squirt of contact cleaner soon sorts them out.
As another example, one of my mates also has a Disco, a little while ago he drowned it in a river. The engine computer was well under water. When we had towed it out of the river, it started first pop. The electrics performed some strange antics, wipers and indicators going at random and whenever they felt like it. But he drove it home. At his place we removed the computer from the foot well and opened it up. Only to have water running out of it. How many other modern vehicles would tolerate water inside the engine management computer?
The ignition system doesn't like water. Mine would splutter at the mere sight of a puddle. Got that fixed too. Stuck the coil in a Click-Clack lunch box and cut an old inner tube up to fit over and cover the distributor. Together with the snorkel since fitted it makes for a nice submersible.
The one on Trade-Me looks good with its ARB bumper and knobblies but at $7000.00 I think it is a little dear.

Cloggy_NZ wrote:

turoa wrote:cloggy only broke them because his foot is made of 100kg of led

The accelerator is an on/off switch isn't it?

I have owned mine for 5 or 6 years. In that time I've had my fair share of broken diffs. Since putting the Salisbury in the rear I haven't had a single diff issue. I recently put in a 110 front end with the strong CV's. I can now give it snot knowing it won't break. I run 235/85 R 16 tyres which are shade under 32" tall. Other than that (the diffs)

Obviously you must only do easy trips because I have seen the 110 diffs break and that is without giving them snot.

Cheers Richard

hahahahahahahahah yeah right ..... you haven't seen Cloggy drive

Bulletproof wrote:

Cloggy_NZ wrote:

turoa wrote:cloggy only broke them because his foot is made of 100kg of led

The accelerator is an on/off switch isn't it?

I have owned mine for 5 or 6 years. In that time I've had my fair share of broken diffs. Since putting the Salisbury in the rear I haven't had a single diff issue. I recently put in a 110 front end with the strong CV's. I can now give it snot knowing it won't break. I run 235/85 R 16 tyres which are shade under 32" tall. Other than that (the diffs)

Obviously you must only do easy trips because I have seen the 110 diffs break and that is without giving them snot.

Cheers Richard

having been in the bitch seat of cloggy's disco i can attest to the fact that he ain't soft on the poor thing.......lol typical cloggy behaviour includes donuts on really bumpy open spaces (not fun with a massive hangover) testing disused bogs by the well proven lets just drive in and give it everything method....

oh and as for his bent steering tierods he's very handy with a strop and tree stump and just the right amount of reverse..

hmm at that price you could pick up something like this,or find a cheaper one and chuck some mud tyres on ,
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 826133.htm
might be the great truck for the mud and bush crashing ,these seem to be cheap on trade me .if you change to
dislocating coil springs and long travel shocks it should make them better on the rti index,the radius arms and trailing arms mount different to the early range rover chassis ,which would make them have less constrictions for articulation . over the early range rover chassis,which defender and disco 1's basically sit on .but like most l/r's if you going to have big tyres and a heavy foot , diff carriers need upgrading weather it Detroits arb or surf carries. and with stronger half shalfs should make any l/r stronger. not to sure with the hse c/v's they look better than classic chassis

gonfellon wrote:hmm at that price you could pick up something like this,or find a cheaper one and chuck some mud tyres on ,
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 826133.htm
might be the great truck for the mud and bush crashing ,these seem to be cheap on trade me .if you change to
dislocating coil springs and long travel shocks it should make them better on the rti index,the radius arms and trailing arms mount different to the early range rover chassis ,which would make them have less constrictions for articulation . over the early range rover chassis,which defender and disco 1's basically sit on .but like most l/r's if you going to have big tyres and a heavy foot , diff carriers need upgrading weather it Detroits arb or surf carries. and with stronger half shalfs should make any l/r stronger. not to sure with the hse c/v's they look better than classic chassis

Sorry but No No No....

I am a great defender of the Green Oval but please don't buy a cheap P38 Rangerover. Electric nightmares!! Dodgy blocks rubbish leaky airbags etc etc.

Just to give you an idea of the complexity and therefore potential to go wrong a owner had problems with the battery going flat apperently at random. It was narrowed down to only occurring when it was parked at his home. They parked it at a airport long-stay for two weeks and it was fine but a weekend at home killed it. After literally months of diagnosis and lots of trips to LR the problem was identified as the remote locking being partially activated by the owners weather station causing it to rise from sleep mode to "looking for unlock/lock signal" The car didn't unlock, flash lights or anything just put a 1 to 3 amp drain on the battery for 30 seconds then went back to sleep. An few mins later the weather station recieved another signal and the RR powered up again.

The owner fixed it by cutting the RR remote locking aerial off to a couple of inches!! You now have to be right next to the car to unlock it but at least the battery don't go flat.

I love Rangies, Discos and Defenders too but if you want relaibility don't buy a P38.

Matt

Bulletproof wrote:

Cloggy_NZ wrote:

turoa wrote:cloggy only broke them because his foot is made of 100kg of led

The accelerator is an on/off switch isn't it?

I have owned mine for 5 or 6 years. In that time I've had my fair share of broken diffs. Since putting the Salisbury in the rear I haven't had a single diff issue. I recently put in a 110 front end with the strong CV's. I can now give it snot knowing it won't break. I run 235/85 R 16 tyres which are shade under 32" tall. Other than that (the diffs)

Obviously you must only do easy trips because I have seen the 110 diffs break and that is without giving them snot.

Cheers Richard

is he breaking the R&P or the arb?

gonfellon wrote:hmm at that price you could pick up something like this,or find a cheaper one and chuck some mud tyres on ,
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 826133.htm
might be the great truck for the mud and bush crashing ,these seem to be cheap on trade me .if you change to
dislocating coil springs and long travel shocks it should make them better on the rti index,the radius arms and trailing arms mount different to the early range rover chassis ,which would make them have less constrictions for articulation . over the early range rover chassis,which defender and disco 1's basically sit on .but like most l/r's if you going to have big tyres and a heavy foot , diff carriers need upgrading weather it Detroits arb or surf carries. and with stronger half shalfs should make any l/r stronger. not to sure with the hse c/v's they look better than classic chassis

There are a couple of guys offroading them, but the ones I know in NZ only take them touring.
They have four spider diffs so the centres are a little stronger, ring and pinion I imagine would be similar strength. Airbags are cheaper than coils if you get them from the right place and IMO adjustable height air suspension would be a major advantage.
With a few mods (crosstube between opposite sides) you can have big articulation while still putting close to the same weight on each wheel. Something coils can never do.

As long as you stay away from water, it'd be a good project. They're getting cheap enough now, you've just got to be prepared to deal with electrical gremlins.

turoa wrote:
is he breaking the R&P or the arb?

He broke 110 CVs and Crown wheel and Pinions and on top of that an ARB carrier that snapped off on the drive side beside the carrier bearing.
He was running 35s but went back to 33s and still broke the diff

He solved the problem by buying a prado and cutting it down and fitting 35 simexs ETs

Cheers Richard

AndrewGutsell wrote:Just wondering about this truck and weather there maitenance heavy as i have heard that they can be, currently got a pto'd safari and its gold. How would they compare?

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 794096.htm

How would the compare? from the depths of my personal ignorance, I am convinced that for vehicles of similar specs, ground clearance, power weight etc, the biggest difference is still the driver........ But what do I know?
I am still very much a learner at 4wding.

Dont care what the nay sayers and doom merchants say, there's always somebody out there to knock yr choice.
It's YOUR decision.
If you can afford it, it's cheap.
If you CANT afford it, it's too fkn dear!!

But, if you ARE frightened of breaking gear, look at flash2004 disco spares advert.
http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/Forums/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=14345

Bulletproof wrote:

turoa wrote:
is he breaking the R&P or the arb?

He broke 110 CVs and Crown wheel and Pinions and on top of that an ARB carrier that snapped off on the drive side beside the carrier bearing.
He was running 35s but went back to 33s and still broke the diff

He solved the problem by buying a prado and cutting it down and fitting 35 simexs ETs

Cheers Richard

reason why he broke CW&P is because he obviously didnt peg the crownwheel to stop it from flexing.

have you decieded on the disco or not