THE BIG CHOP THE END

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Rangerat
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THE BIG CHOP THE END

Post by Rangerat »

The big chop part one is finished!!!!!!!

The roll bar is on and that is the end of the list of jobs I had at the start.

(I can now make a new list!!!!!!!)

I will now be out giving it heaps to see what else I can do to make it a better off road weapon (club truck at this stage)

After the trip to Lahar (see busted windscreen) I am very happy with the way it went and have already made a couple of small mods.

1. Wired up a switch to control the winch from the drivers seat
2. Ordered a sealed reduction starter from Rangie Spares (mine filled up with crap and wouldn't engage, 3 times now!!!!!!)

Whats next?

Paint
New front springs to get the nose back up (springs are sitting in my shed waiting to go in)
Front locker (Bodge, how much differance will this make, no bull advice, or can I spend the money elsewere?)
New axle's, CV's?????
MORE POWER!!!!!!!!!!
New seats.
Win Lotto!!!!!!
And on and on.

Photos of the roll bar in my album.

Rat
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Bodge
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Post by Bodge »

Font Locker?

In some situations it will make all the difference. Personally after having a loaner in my truck for a while I didn't really like it... Very difficult to get used to - and when you use it at the wrong time it can get you in a lot worse trouble than a rear locker... Great for going straight ahead or when you are locked into ruts but there is a real art to using them which I didn't have a chance to learn.

Ultimately I think you have to have one when your truck is done - but you are not going to miss it in the mean time.

Whats with the sealed starter? I just bought a gear reduction starter - that was quite obviously not sealed [but the price was right]. How have they sealed it? Can you take some good photos when you get it ? I might retro seal my one.

Quote: "(mine filled up with crap and wouldn't engage, 3 times now!!!!!!)"

I must be a lot more patient [or poor] I have been putting up with 9 months of non-starting a minimum of 30 key turns to get life!!!! Just make sure you aint in a hurry... Sometimes I had to resort to a big screw driver to cross the terminals from under the car... Obviously you have to have it out of gear which is even more dodgy as I can't remember the last time my hand brake worked!
The three position Lucas switch - Dim, Flicker and Off.http://home.off-road.com/~bodgerover/
suzukisam
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Post by suzukisam »

bodge, yours sounds like solenoid probs rather than pinion engaging prob. try getting somone to whack the solenoid with a heavy hard thing while you hold the key at start.
might just need the contacts cleaned in the solenoid
cheers Lest
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Rangerat
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Post by Rangerat »

The starter arrived yesterday. I'll get some shots of it before it go's in. (The Rangie Spares parts book says it is sealed) and just giving it the once over it looks the go.

Rat.
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lowbox
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Post by lowbox »

Main problem with a front locker in a rangie is the shock loads you can put on the rangie drivetrain - the standard CVs and axles aren't up to it. As soon as you put in a front locker you will start breaking CVs and/or front axles - even if you drive with some care. If you drive like Bodge, you'd better carry spares...
A rear locker makes 95% of the difference, a front is useful only in some situations - straight ahead up a hill or through a bog - but the handling effects can be dramatically negative if there is a camber or a corner and as the truck starts to go the wrong way you will want to get unlocked very quickly to regain your steering! You really have to line up the obstacle, ensure the front wheels are straight, engage the front locker, and unlock it very quickly if things go wrong or you clear the obstacle.
As the saying goes, turn wheel hard, engage front locker, depress accelerator hard, replace CV.
A rear locker you can just about leave in most of the time without worrying too much - but with enough right foot you will still break the standard rear axles. Eh Bodge?
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lilpigzuk
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Post by lilpigzuk »

Just going back to your original reply Rat..... Wheres the photos of your rollbar, the last photo you have in your album is the "flash" :D temporary windscreen????? Curious of how you have done it

cheers
Rex
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Rangerat
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Post by Rangerat »

I have the shots of the bar (and the starter for Bodge) but still can't upload them (help Mike)
Cheers for the advice on the front locker, I think I'll hold off on that at the moment and throw the money elsewhere (more power!!!!!!)

Rat
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mike
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Post by mike »

Help is coming, New albums tomorrow :D
And you can even send e cards with them 8O

I've heard that front lockers make little difference and that the most gain comes from the rear locker for offroad performance. So it doesn't surprise me at all what lowbox said :wink:
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Bodge
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Post by Bodge »

suzukisam wrote:bodge, yours sounds like solenoid probs rather than pinion engaging prob. try getting somone to whack the solenoid with a heavy hard thing while you hold the key at start.
might just need the contacts cleaned in the solenoid
cheers Lest


My starter was rebuilt twice in 12 months [including a new solenoid] - for some reason it kept filling up with muddy water :?: :?: the windings and brushes just go too dirty to make a relaible contact.... In the end I gave up on it as it was 70's Lucas technology... The new starter is a dream but I am keen to seal it so that it can withstand the regular dunkings ....
The three position Lucas switch - Dim, Flicker and Off.http://home.off-road.com/~bodgerover/
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Bodge
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Post by Bodge »

lowbox wrote:Main problem with a front locker in a rangie is the shock loads you can put on the rangie drivetrain - the standard CVs and axles aren't up to it. As soon as you put in a front locker you will start breaking CVs and/or front axles - even if you drive with some care. If you drive like Bodge, you'd better carry spares...
As the saying goes, turn wheel hard, engage front locker, depress accelerator hard, replace CV.
A rear locker you can just about leave in most of the time without worrying too much - but with enough right foot you will still break the standard rear axles. Eh Bodge?


Unfortunately there isn't a readily available upgrade for Rover CV's other than the heavy duty 110 CV's which are not that much stronger - still easily broken with decent tyres and a mild application of right foot. Thats just something the Rover guys have to learn to adapt to - there is stuff in the pipeline so a solution is well in sight...

And yes I can break shit - whats your point Lowbox :D I haven't broken a locker yet... I think you have accounted for two plus axles and cv's my son. I am just an apprentice hack to your superior lack of restraint.... Before you claim it all happened towing me - we all know it was a Nissan :lol:
The three position Lucas switch - Dim, Flicker and Off.http://home.off-road.com/~bodgerover/
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Bodge
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Post by Bodge »

Nice photos rat - the bar looks good - it finishes the roof line off nicely - doesn't look so pants down now :D

I would consider a diagonal behind the cab - or were you banking on the increased strength of the double hoop?

The starter looks vastly different to mine - more like the original rover/lucas version. Can you see where its been 'sealed'?

bodge
The three position Lucas switch - Dim, Flicker and Off.http://home.off-road.com/~bodgerover/
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Rangerat
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Post by Rangerat »

I considered cross bracing the bar but as you say the dual hoop will give it enough strength plus I would have to rearrange the gear bins.

The frame I made for the back of the cab is made from 40X40X4mm box and was designed and built to provide the main roll over protection (welded and bolted to the cab floor, sides and roof) If I get real keen I will use this frame as the pick up piont if I build a full internal cage.
The bars on the back are now an added bonus.

The starter looks like it has seals behind the pinon, between the solinoid and starter body plus all openings in the body for wires etc are sealed.
It has the same layout as the original but is about 3" shorter and a fair bit lighter.

I'll give an update on the starter after some extensive field tests!!!!!!!!

I am now looking at fitting race seats and full harness belts. (update to follow)

Rat
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