Offroad-Express

Ive done thousands of searches and bloody cannot find an answer that makes sense.

Basically im lifting my truck 35mm and need to know the following.

How long are the factory bolts

Are all 8 bolts the same length

This is bloody annoying as the trucks my daily and i live out of town. I'd have to take all 4 bolts out down one side and then replace them to go get the correct length ones.

thanks all

when i lifted my truck 50mm i used 150mm bolts

thru away the factory so cant measure them haha
so 130-135 would work?

Thanks

And they were all the same then obviously.

Cheers dude

the rear bolts are not the same they are a fine thread, but i could not get mine out as they are captive nut and mine broke,so i used m12 8.8 all round,but if you heat the rear ones as they hav loctight(cant spell but u know wot i mean) on them you can just replace them with the same but a bit longer if you can get them out,job done in a 2hrs easy
vince

yeah im going with M12 too. Thanks all .. will be a good project for tomorrow.

-Nathan

oh yeah forgot about the rear 1

i just cut the captive nut out so mine all ended up the same length

where are you located? maybe able to give a hand if close to pn

Hamilton eh. I should put that into my profile thanks for the offer.

Is the captive nut properly captive? I was hoping to shit i could just lift that nut out when i'd taken the bolt out.

flyingbrick wrote:Hamilton eh. I should put that into my profile thanks for the offer.

Is the captive nut properly captive? I was hoping to shit i could just lift that nut out when i'd taken the bolt out.

its captive with some sheet metal

you will need to cut some of the floor out to get at it properly if you lift the carpet at the rear you will see the bung have a look and you will see what i meen

not sure about the swb but my lwbs rear bung was plastic and a #### of a thing to get off so just smashed it you cant see it with the carpet there anyways

anything more you need to know bud?

Nah man im all good thanks tons.

SWB has a rubber bung.. it pops out easy as.

I'll get some cutting disks for my dremel and slice that little cage off.

You guys rule

Hopefully the auto doesnt take too much fluffing around to align the selector again hehe.

flyingbrick wrote:Nah man im all good thanks tons.

SWB has a rubber bung.. it pops out easy as.

I'll get some cutting disks for my dremel and slice that little cage off.

You guys rule

Hopefully the auto doesnt take too much fluffing around to align the selector again hehe.

I've 2 body lifts on SWB auto's and haven't needed to adjust the shifter at all on either. Transfer case level is a different story!

Also Factory blots are 100mm so just add you body lift height to 100mm and get that sized bolt assuming you remove the captive nuts in the rear. I would suggest you replace the captive nut in the rear with a 6mm plate as this is the mount most like;ly to tear out. The least you should do is a 50mm washer.

darinz wrote:

flyingbrick wrote:Nah man im all good thanks tons.

SWB has a rubber bung.. it pops out easy as.

I'll get some cutting disks for my dremel and slice that little cage off.

You guys rule

Hopefully the auto doesnt take too much fluffing around to align the selector again hehe.

I've 2 body lifts on SWB auto's and haven't needed to adjust the shifter at all on either. Transfer case level is a different story!

Also Factory blots are 100mm so just add you body lift height to 100mm and get that sized bolt assuming you remove the captive nuts in the rear. I would suggest you replace the captive nut in the rear with a 6mm plate as this is the mount most like;ly to tear out. The least you should do is a 50mm washer.

Legend.

by transfer case level you mean the 4wd lever hitting the rear of the hole?

I've damn run out of time today to do it.. ffs.

Yeah I just can't spell some times!!!!!!

Well I spent my first few hours under the nissan putting these in. Thanks everyone for the help.

Had a few shitty things happen along the way- I wish I'd had my tools here (im at the parents this weekend) so that i could better deal with seized nuts etc.

The rear bolts came free easy as once they were hot- you guys weren't kidding about the locktite

Its SO COOL how the bottom section of radiator shroud unclips so easily for fan clearance

Now ive gotta work out why i cant get her into 4L now (gears grind like its not in neutral)

Maybe i do need to adjust that linkage. hmmn.

I have only done a 25mm lift but I asume it will be because you haven't got enough clearance for your shifter. They need to come back - then down -then back - then back up again otherwise it catches in between gears. Just trim some floor from behind the shifter and maybe even bang that part of the floor down.

Thanks .

I'll look at it at work and maybe attack it with a die grinder

does not seem limited by the tunnel though... but i could (probably am) be wrong.

Man an extra 35mm makes it look SO much cooler.

also you may need to modify the boot around the lever i still havent done this yet but you can get the from repco or the like
just remember that without the boot the HOT air comes in and makes for an uncomfortable drive lol