Page 1 of 1

Low profile bump stops and TDC

Posted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 8:22 pm
by RJ
Hi team,

Have completed ball joint flip, front suspension kit, torsion bar wind up and shaved the top bump stops. Can/should I shave the lower bump stops or can you buy low profile bump stops. I have seen a button type bump stop advertised overseas but unsure if you can get them here. Or alternatively what is a suitable amount to shave the lower bump stops?

Also had the valve stem seals done in place, but since they were done I have noticed a distinct lack of power. Unfortunately the chap who did the seals has now left the country. It has been mentioned that as he did them in place that its possible one of the cams has gone back in a tooth out. Does anyone know of a simple way I can determine if thats the case or not. Or is it back into the shop?

Cheers
Rod

Re: Low profile bump stops and TDC

Posted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 10:26 am
by NJV6
HI, Did you see the pic's of the bolts I used? They are very low profile. My front bump stops are well chopped.

Ah oops just re red your post - you are talking lowers. I have not done them as I think my tyres will rub if they come up any further and I was told it may put to much angle on the cv's. Not sure on this though. I have seen some cut though.

Best bet is ARB part number RD110!!!!

Re: Low profile bump stops and TDC

Posted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 10:35 am
by NJV6
I think from memory the top two cam belt covers are relatively easy to take off on the 3.0 motor. You could maybe do that and have a look at the timing marks? At leaset it would tell you if the two cams are in sync.

I can\t help as to why is not going so well - didn't crimp the fuel line or anything? Is it still running on 6?

Re: Low profile bump stops and TDC

Posted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 11:30 am
by RJ
You might be right about the tyre rubbing, will have to check. I assume I can shave a bit off it though as long as I allow for the tyre clearance. Hhhhmmm will check the CV angles to.

Just spoke to our usual mechanic and he is going to do basically what you have outlined. Reckons he should have it sorted in a couple of hours. I was under the impression they would have to actually remove and turn the actual cam, depending on which one it is, but that is not so.

Cheers for your comments though.