Offroad-Express

Just interested to know what a common / good lift is for a 97 model Wrangler, would be one that is used for everyday on road commuting but then also decent for off road. And being able to run 33" tires. Living in Auckland and wondering where a good place to purchase / fit a kit would be.

Cheers in advance.

3.5" spring lift is perfect - plenty of flex and no rubbing.

Other factors:
1. You will be well advised to run a slip yoke eliminator / DC
2. You will need to run something like a 15x8 with a -19mm offset or 3.75" backspace rim
3. You will need another 3"-4" of flare on the wheel arches
4. I run a 6 speed and a re-gear was needed to get my crawl back (4:56) but anything like 4:11 - 5:88 can work well
5. Control arms - I went for an adjustable arm (longer and stronger than stock) but the stock will work but they suck and will be pretty choppy
6. Recommend a HD tie rod
7. Lenthen your brake lines
8. Adjustable track/panhards front or rear or a bracket it the funds are an issue
9. Longer shocks
10. Sway bar disco's or a Currie AntiRock set up is needed to account for the longer link needed (Curries are great)

I run a Rubicon Express but there are plenty of others around ex Australia and the US......The JKS setup is nice and they have some trick gear all round.

Hope that helps

Rych wrote:Just interested to know what a common / good lift is for a 97 model Wrangler, would be one that is used for everyday on road commuting but then also decent for off road. And being able to run 33" tires. Living in Auckland and wondering where a good place to purchase / fit a kit would be.

Cheers in advance.

Talk to Dave at www.wooders.com.au (Wooders Garage). He is in Sydney (or north of slightly) and is the closest dealer for Rubicon Express. Locally, your options are very limited. OME is readily available locally, but with the way my springs have sagged, I am not going with OME again. I'll be getting Rubicon Express springs soon.

I already have the slip yoke eliminator and rear driveshaft mod (thanks to a bent output shaft one afternoon). There are a few experienced Jeepers here, keep asking what you have in mind. It all depends on what you ultimately want to do with it.

Ive now dropped back down to 4 inchs in lift (after removing the coil spacers from my spring/spacer combo). But always had issues with the Procomp setup that was in it when i bought it. The front track bar bracket was ok for mall crawling, but out on the track it failed miserably, so ive just gone back to the stock mounting with the stock bar.... which is of course pulling the front diff out horribly, but will soon be remedied with my enroute new front adjustable bar. Point being, dont scrimp on the kit... get EVERYTHING, track bars, control arms etc etc if youre going to be higher than say 2 inches. Now, american kits dont do the front track bar for us, that would need to be sourced from Aussie, but they do come with the rear adjustable bar.
Im going to be putting a 1.25 inch body lift in to accommodate the hi-clearance trans skid (that should be in next weekend).
I prefer the 4 inch lift over the 5, it just seems to handle a shiteload better. Ill make that 1 inch back up once the skid is on.

If your on a tight budget, and depending on how high you want to go, perhaps a 2 in coil spacer lift is all you'll be after, with perhaps a 1 inch body lift to accompany it to easily accommodate 33's...

Theres plenty of options to boggle your mind with. Just remember one thing.... dont do a budget lift thinking "that will do me just fine"......... because once it bites you, the addiction wont stop!!!!!!

Cheers for the replies, bit to think about. Not sure if I really need to go very high for what I'd use it for. I was thinking 3 and half inch lift and 33's for tyres. But if I could do the cheaper 2in lift with 1in body lift and fit 33's that could be a plan too.

Where's a decent place in Auckland that can do the labour and fit the kits? I live in Hibiscus Coast, 20min north of North Shore.

Cheers.

Guys at Auckland 4x4 have worked on Jeeps before. I think one of them has or had a Wrangler.

Failing that, get the gear ya need and wheel down here. All things going well it could be done in a day..... couple of hours for the spacer lift, a couple for the body lift...... done done and done....... and FREE labour, just cause I love doin stuff to Jeeps. I would have to move the Commodore out of the garage though, which will need permission, in triplicate, from the ministry of war and finance.

(..... RJ get them vittles on, we's dun got us anutha one......!!!!!!!)

Richard Brooks at Auckland 4x4 has a Wrangler. I am running their OME kit. He knows a bit about Jeeps (more than most in Auckland). OME kit goes to 2.5", but if you put a lot of weight with armour, springs do tend to sag quickly (ask me how I know).

As for labour, its a simple job and can be done in a driveway. We can even make it a fix Jeep day.....

TJ wrote:Richard Brooks at Auckland 4x4 has a Wrangler. I am running their OME kit. He knows a bit about Jeeps (more than most in Auckland). OME kit goes to 2.5", but if you put a lot of weight with armour, springs do tend to sag quickly (ask me how I know).

As for labour, its a simple job and can be done in a driveway. We can even make it a fix Jeep day.....

Lol... good to see we Jeepers think alike!

Oh cool cool sounds good, so I just need to located a kit. Guess I'm going to have to order from over seas ah. Think I will go for a 3.5in lift, just have to wait a bit longer to get the funds together. Don't want to spend money on getting it to a height, and then find I want more!

One other unrelated question. Last truck was a diesel and I never had to worry about water up to the windscreen. How do you get around screwing all the electrics in the petrol engine when your in deep water?

Talk to Dave at Wooders Garage (www.wooders.com.au), he is the Rubicon Express dealer in our part of the world. He really knows his Jeeps. I am getting RE 3.5" springs in the next couple of months to gain some of the sag back.

Something like this looks good: http://www.wooders.com.au/index.php?mai ... cts_id=522

What would be recommended in terms of shocks, I'm assuming you cannot run these systems on factory shocks.

Rych wrote:Something like this looks good: http://www.wooders.com.au/index.php?mai ... cts_id=522

What would be recommended in terms of shocks, I'm assuming you cannot run these systems on factory shocks.

I run the RE Superflex kit and you do need longer shocks than stock - way longer...the RE is a big 3.5" lift and the springs dont sag like Pro Comp and OME.

I run Pro Comp 9000 and Wooders sells the RE ones which are rebadged Bilsteins.....most guys seem to run Pro Comp, Bilstein, Rancho or RE unless you go for something like the Fox which are too firm (IMO)..

Would something like this.. http://www.wooders.com.au/index.php?mai ... cts_id=625

..work? Seem to only be 2" or 4.5", 4.5" for 3.5" lift? Is that price for a pair or full set?

http://www.wooders.com.au/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=370_40_168_414&products_id=69

http://www.wooders.com.au/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=370_40_317&products_id=599

http://www.wooders.com.au/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=370_40_317&products_id=600

I would say currently the best deal around is in the US at:

http://www.4x4groupbuy.com/store/rubicon-express-re70003-superflex-combo-shoc-p-8491.html Any supplier would be hard pressed to beat that.

have a chat to these boys..http://www.4wdaccessories.co.nz/index.p ... ath=27_125

http://www.4wdaccessories.co.nz/index.p ... cts_id=173

Those look cheap, $2050 for everything. An RE set would be about the same with the cheaper 3.5" and Mono Tube shocks.

What would be recommended between those two? The US one is going to cost over 3k, not really looking to spend that much. I would prefer around 2k.

give rick a call 08004wdaccessories......pretty keen on his jeeps

TJ being a short wheelbase (say compared to an XJ), at 4" lift you will definitely have to address the rear driveshaft. The best way is through SYE and double cardan driveshaft. Other options are transfer case drop and/or engine lift combination. Dropping the transfer case negates some of the original intention (i.e. raising everything away from ground). Double cardan is likely to require an adjustment of rear pinion, hence upper adjustable control arms. On a TJ, if you want to raise it anything beyond 2.5", you have to be prepared for all unintended consequences of going all the way. Otherwise stick with 2.5" which would allow you to comforably run 32" tyres.

I don't know about the quality of ORV springs and shocks, so can't comment. At the end of the day, its your budget and choice. Talk to a few people who are using the kit and see what they say.

TJ wrote:TJ being a short wheelbase (say compared to an XJ), at 4" lift you will definitely have to address the rear driveshaft. The best way is through SYE and double cardan driveshaft. Other options are transfer case drop and/or engine lift combination. Dropping the transfer case negates some of the original intention (i.e. raising everything away from ground). Double cardan is likely to require an adjustment of rear pinion, hence upper adjustable control arms. On a TJ, if you want to raise it anything beyond 2.5", you have to be prepared for all unintended consequences of going all the way. Otherwise stick with 2.5" which would allow you to comforably run 32" tyres.

I don't know about the quality of ORV springs and shocks, so can't comment. At the end of the day, its your budget and choice. Talk to a few people who are using the kit and see what they say.

ORV are also re-stickered SkyJackers. Ive got them on mine. Contact Greg Hopkins for a $$$$. ("justjeep" on Trademe) He's just lifted his TJ (again) and has used the ORV gear, I actually nicked the shocks out of his kit.

Additionally, when i first got mine it was lifted 5 inches and still had the stock D/S with a 1 inch trasfer case drop. It worked just fine, but would only have been a matter of time before bending the output shaft. Having said that, i know of a TJ lifted 4.5 inches, with SYE and DC driveshaft, and he still HAS to have the transfer case dropped too. Regardless of adjustments to upper control arms or whatever, it wont stop vibing until the transfer case is dropped........

No two Jeeps are alike.....

xj wrote:ORV are also re-stickered SkyJackers. Ive got them on mine. Contact Greg Hopkins for a $$$$. ("justjeep" on Trademe) He's just lifted his TJ (again) and has used the ORV gear, I actually nicked the shocks out of his kit.

Additionally, when i first got mine it was lifted 5 inches and still had the stock D/S with a 1 inch trasfer case drop. It worked just fine, but would only have been a matter of time before bending the output shaft. Having said that, i know of a TJ lifted 4.5 inches, with SYE and DC driveshaft, and he still HAS to have the transfer case dropped too. Regardless of adjustments to upper control arms or whatever, it wont stop vibing until the transfer case is dropped........

No two Jeeps are alike.....

Agree, no two Jeeps are alike. I bent my output shaft with OME lift and 1" MML (no vibrations). Skyjacker is a good brand and well known in the market (and not just for Jeep stuff). Greg is a good guy to deal with too.

I see, I didn't think about the other stuff that goes with it. Could I run 32" tyres with a 2inch lift such as this:

http://www.wooders.com.au/index.php?mai ... cts_id=524

That seems pretty cheap, I guess it won't have quite the same performance on the tricky stuff compared to a higher lift. So standard springs work fine with the 2" lift?

Who could I get to do the extra work needed after say a 3.5" - 4" lift?

PS: Is that what this is: "Note: The installation of a slip yoke eliminator and CV driveshaft on the stock NP231 transfer case is recommended on a TJ."

Rych wrote:I see, I didn't think about the other stuff that goes with it. Could I run 32" tyres with a 2inch lift such as this:

http://www.wooders.com.au/index.php?mai ... cts_id=524

That seems pretty cheap, I guess it won't have quite the same performance on the tricky stuff compared to a higher lift. So standard springs work fine with the 2" lift?

Who could I get to do the extra work needed after say a 3.5" - 4" lift?

PS: Is that what this is: "Note: The installation of a slip yoke eliminator and CV driveshaft on the stock NP231 transfer case is recommended on a TJ."

With that paricular lift yes the springs will be fine. The spacers sit on top of the springs which is what gives the extra height. I dunno about 32's on that though. My wifes Renegade had 31s on with a 2inch lift and was ok, i cant comment on the 32s. I would be putting a body lift of 1 inch in as well and popping 33s on.

Id be happy to fith extra stuff ofr the higher lift for ya, but after doing a SYE conversion myself, id be putting it into the shop if i had to do one again. TJ has also done his own one.

Oh ok, I actually have 31's on now. They rub when locked too far though. I'll have to figure out what I want to do. I would rather have a high lift, just depends if I can get that extra work done and how much.

So need to also get these:

http://www.wooders.com.au/index.php?mai ... cts_id=193

http://www.wooders.com.au/index.php?mai ... cts_id=138

Starts getting expensive ah..

Cheers.

Rych wrote:Oh ok, I actually have 31's on now. They rub when locked too far though. I'll have to figure out what I want to do. I would rather have a high lift, just depends if I can get that extra work done and how much.

So need to also get these:

http://www.wooders.com.au/index.php?mai ... cts_id=193

http://www.wooders.com.au/index.php?mai ... cts_id=138

Starts getting expensive ah..

Cheers.

Regarding the rub. Im picking that the tyre is rubbing on either the swaybar or the upper control arm??? If so theres a bolt on the front of your steering yoke that if adjusted out will limit your lock to the point that the tyres wont rub. Get down in front of the tyre and on the bottom of the yoke you should see it there. (at least thats where i think it is... cant recall off the top of my head.)

xj wrote:

Rych wrote:Oh ok, I actually have 31's on now. They rub when locked too far though. I'll have to figure out what I want to do. I would rather have a high lift, just depends if I can get that extra work done and how much.

So need to also get these:

http://www.wooders.com.au/index.php?mai ... cts_id=193

http://www.wooders.com.au/index.php?mai ... cts_id=138

Starts getting expensive ah..

Cheers.

Regarding the rub. Im picking that the tyre is rubbing on either the swaybar or the upper control arm??? If so theres a bolt on the front of your steering yoke that if adjusted out will limit your lock to the point that the tyres wont rub. Get down in front of the tyre and on the bottom of the yoke you should see it there. (at least thats where i think it is... cant recall off the top of my head.)

Those bolts are one on each knuckle and normally the rubbing is on the lower control arm. I may have a picture somewhere stacked.

I can help with putting the SYE on if you want to save labour. Its not difficult, but can be cramped space.

TJ wrote:Those bolts are one on each knuckle and normally the rubbing is on the lower control arm.

What he said.....

Oh cool cheers I will have a look at those and see what I can do. Yea pretty sure its the lower control arm they rubbing on.

Looks like its going to cost me about $3,500 dollars all up to lift 3.5". Bit more than what I was looking at. So there would be no way to get a 3-4" lift for around 2k? Maybe have to go for one of those 2" ones and do a 1-2" body lift or something.

Is there any need to go for all this for just 2 inchs..

http://www.4wdaccessories.co.nz/index.p ... cts_id=172

Or would:

http://www.wooders.com.au/index.php?mai ... cts_id=524

+

http://www.wooders.com.au/index.php?mai ... cts_id=135

Be fine?

Rych wrote:Looks like its going to cost me about $3,500 dollars all up to lift 3.5". Bit more than what I was looking at. So there would be no way to get a 3-4" lift for around 2k? Maybe have to go for one of those 2" ones and do a 1-2" body lift or something.

LOL... so going back to the 4th post in this thread and paragraph 2......

Again bud, it all depends on where you want to go with it down the line.

Yea lol soz.. Just don't think I want to spend too much now, want to make sure its what I am going to do for awhile. If I get really into it I could go all out later on in time, possibly next summer or something. I need two new front shocks anyway, so a full set with some spacers could be a good way to go. With the 1.25" body lift, is there any other support modifications which need to be done or can I just leave it with that.

Rych wrote:Yea lol soz.. Just don't think I want to spend too much now, want to make sure its what I am going to do for awhile. If I get really into it I could go all out later on in time, possibly next summer or something. I need two new front shocks anyway, so a full set with some spacers could be a good way to go. With the 1.25" body lift, is there any other support modifications which need to be done or can I just leave it with that.

A 2" budget boost (i.e. spacers) and longer shocks should allow you to run 32" tyres (of reasonable width). Adding 1" body lift will give you more clearance for the guards if you are running wider wheels. With such a small lift, in theory you should not have any vibration problems. If you like the sport, then spend the money and build from there. Regarding spacers, any make is as good as any other I suppose (they are just poly urethane bushes, just a bit bigger).