running tyres at low pressure without beadlocks

[xorph]

I've just bought some new tyres and will be sticking them on my rims soon.
Was just looking over some old posts for ideas to help stop the tires spinning on the rims and popping off the bead.
I saw using Urethane and grit paint as a couple options. Anyone have any updates / further thoughts to add? Im willing to give something a shot just dont want to damage the tires...
Ive had pretty good luck with tyres but dont usually run lower than 25psi offroad.
rims are 16x8 and Im using tubes. Tires are 35x11.5 silverstones. (Look awesome by the way!)

Cheers, Matt.

[wopass]

get tractor tubes (massive diference to RV tubes) and a tube of hold fast fix all thats what my centipedes have and my tyres have been on the rims for over 4 years of abuse and never popped one off yet...touch wood

[skid]

this should be fun

i'll start the ball rolling as theres going to be lots of different answers pop up for this one


I got some old ROH rims that were 15" x 8" , for some reason they held onto the bead bloody well

I could go play and let my tahs down to 4 psi and slam into ruts etc wthout them popping off the bead

its a bit extreme and I wouldn't recommend going below 8-10 psi in most cases, but for some reason it seemed OK with my particular rims, and if it had popped off the bead then we had tools etc to get them back on

[Sadam_Husain]

I used to run my 35" simexes on 8" rims at 10psi without beadlocks without any problems, had them a wee bit lower a few times but always tried to stay at 10psi. You shouldnt spin a tube unless you've got big HP

[J_Dub]

get tractor tubes (massive diference to RV tubes) and a tube of hold fast fix all thats what my centipedes have and my tyres have been on the rims for over 4 years of abuse and never popped one off yet...touch wood

i like that idea, what, so just pump the fix all around the bead when fitting the tyre? bet its a prick to get the tyre off when needed to though

[wopass]

get tractor tubes (massive diference to RV tubes) and a tube of hold fast fix all thats what my centipedes have and my tyres have been on the rims for over 4 years of abuse and never popped one off yet...touch wood

i like that idea, what, so just pump the fix all around the bead when fitting the tyre? bet its a prick to get the tyre off when needed to though

yeap, that easy and i dont know if they are a prick to get off as i havent had to get them off yet ...ohh wait thats a lie, i had to get one off once as i slammed the truck into a bank and it hit so hard that it bent the rim out of shape...but diddnt pop the bead and tyre machines pop beads pretty well if you know how to use them

[xorph]

Yeah I read your old post about fixall Wopass, sounds like a good plan have you ever had to remove a tyre? Im kinda hoping rubber is stronger than the fixall bond cos it would be a nasty surprise getting a flat and then shredding a tyre trying to get it off the rim.
As for power Sadam, got no shortage of that at the mo...

[wopass]

Yeah I read your old post about fixall Wopass, sounds like a good plan have you ever had to remove a tyre? Im kinda hoping rubber is stronger than the fixall bond cos it would be a nasty surprise getting a flat and then shredding a tyre trying to get it off the rim.
As for power Sadam, got no shortage of that at the mo...

yea mate see above the fix all is great stuff but teh tyre is much stronger so no troubles there

[wopass]

ohh and for tractor tubes you need to drill out the valve stem hole as the heavy duty bladders have much bigger stems but take normal schroder valves so no drama

[xorph]

sweet well sounds like Ill try it. Not exactly gonna cost much..
did you give the rims a light sand first?
why are the tractor tubes so much better?

[skid]

and if ya decide to run with the tractor valved tubes, its a better idea to drill a completely new hole closer to the centre of the rim and weld up the existing hole as it suits the tube better and causes less stress on the valve area

[J_Dub]

sweet well sounds like Ill try it. Not exactly gonna cost much..
did you give the rims a light sand first?
why are the tractor tubes so much better?

the fixall sticks beter to a smooth surface

[wopass]

and if ya decide to run with the tractor valved tubes, its a better idea to drill a completely new hole closer to the centre of the rim and weld up the existing hole as it suits the tube better and causes less stress on the valve area

true that, i diddnt but yes it would suit the tractor tubes better... will do that when/if i ever take the tyres off

[Sadam_Husain]

why are the tractor tubes so much better?

Tractor tubes are heavy duty rubber not that condom thin stuff they make standard tubes out of. They have 16mm reinforced valve stems with locknuts and dump valves instead of the standard 12mm valve stems. You redrill the valve hole further into the centre of the rim so its not sticking out where it'll get caught on roots and stuff that'll rip it out

[cool__bananas]

just a quick question here, if you dont drop your pressure to bellow 25psi isnt a waste of time dropping them? why do you not go bellow 25?

[wopass]

just a quick question here, if you dont drop your pressure to bellow 25psi isnt a waste of time dropping them? why do you not go bellow 25?

at 25psi you would still get your tyre working and moulding over logs and rocks, not much but enough, and in the bush you are much more likely to pop a bead off due to rocks or logs or shunting a bank...and your miles from anywhere so you run higher pressures to minimise the risk. not like you can just pop back to the trailer where all your tools are and fix it like you rally boys

[skid]

just a quick question here, if you dont drop your pressure to below 25psi, isn't it a waste of time dropping them? why do you not go below 25?

he has a good point

I run 25psi as my road pressure in my 80 series landcruiser

if I were to take it off road and knew there would be air available then I would probably drop them to 12psi

[Heath]

Slightly off topic (okay more than slightly)

A trick I picked up for reseating a tubeless tyre is to put a ratchet strap around the tyre (outer circomference - about where the bead blocks in a centerpede tyre are) and tighten it up good and tight. it will squash the centre of the tyre and force the beads into contact with the rim allowing a pump to reinflate the tyre and reseat the beads.

Of course this relys on you having a clean bead and tyre surface, a good high volume pump/ airsupply, a ratchet strap and the ability to safely lift the tyre off the ground (jack or whatever). Saves taking the tyre off and fitting the spare.

Heath

[Sadam_Husain]

Slightly off topic (okay more than slightly)

A trick I picked up for reseating a tubeless tyre is to put a ratchet strap around the tyre (outer circomference - about where the bead blocks in a centerpede tyre are) and tighten it up good and tight. it will squash the centre of the tyre and force the beads into contact with the rim allowing a pump to reinflate the tyre and reseat the beads.

Of course this relys on you having a clean bead and tyre surface, a good high volume pump/ airsupply, a ratchet strap and the ability to safely lift the tyre off the ground (jack or whatever). Saves taking the tyre off and fitting the spare.

Heath

And old trick and I'm sure it works but it probably varies a bit from tyre to tyre coz we've tried it a couple of times with wheels removed from vehicles and we've always ended up with the tyre crushing and collapsing before it tightens up on the bead

[Heath]

Ah well I never said it worked all the time

Just worth a try I guess. Maybe it was only on my small 30x9.5 zuk monster tyres

[xorph]

If you have tubes and pop a bead what pressure do you have to pump the tyre up to to re-seat it? can you do it with a typical 12 volt compressor?

I found dropping pressure from 40 psi to 25 makes a big difference on my old simexes. at 40 psi it mostly spins on the centre lugs but at 25 it pushes the side lugs down a lot more and they work very well even though quite worn. Main reason I never dropped them further was because didnt have a compressor and always needed to drive back to a service station to pump them up again

[Sadam_Husain]

If you have tubes and pop a bead what pressure do you have to pump the tyre up to to re-seat it? can you do it with a typical 12 volt compressor?

They should pop back on between 20-30psi, I've popped them back on with cheap electric pumps before, definately easier if you've got tubes in them

[dvk-kp]

does anyone on here use the flammable spray technique to reseat them...looks a bit dangerous but it certainly works... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t7FIvAw2 ... re=related

[wopass]

does anyone on here use the flammable spray technique to reseat them...looks a bit dangerous but it certainly works... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t7FIvAw2 ... re=related

it works fine when you have a nice clean bead to seat onto, if however you have shit on it then when the tyre sucks in after seating it will just pull off the bead again

[cool__bananas]

not like you can just pop back to the trailer where all your tools are and fix it like you rally boys

i used to only do clubtrips back in the day you know! i was 12 when i first had to deal with my own tyres (4yrs ago haha )

[albundy]

A trick I picked up for reseating a tubeless tyre is to put a ratchet strap around the tyre (outer circomference - about where the bead blocks in a centerpede tyre are) and tighten it up good and tight. it will squash the centre of the tyre and force the beads into contact with the rim allowing a pump to reinflate the tyre and reseat the beads.

Of course this relys on you having a clean bead and tyre surface, a good high volume pump/ airsupply, a ratchet strap and the ability to safely lift the tyre off the ground (jack or whatever). Saves taking the tyre off and fitting the spare.

Heath

Yep I do this all the time Heath, Silverstones have nice strong sidewalls though so they keep the shape. I use a dive cylinder to re-inflate. I put the tyres onto a smaller rim, no pooping beads since.
AL