O NO Escudo Steel front diff and CV mod.
Posted: Tue May 12, 2009 7:20 pm
have taken this week off work to (amongst other things) swap out the front diff in the Suzuki for the more desirable steel one.
The original aluminum diff is prone to busting due to rock damage and axle torque.
I acquired the steel diff of a dude who had it for a wile in the shed, who acquired of an another dude.
It already had the drive shaft conversion to the right hand side, so you can use the left side half shaft.
Was also complete with air locker.
Iv come up against a stoppage so now is a good time to start a build diary build thing page.
Picture above is from the Bits4Vits sight. It a steel GV axle with the right hand CV shaft conversion. Now I have a chance to aspire.
This is where to keep your water and oil mix. photo also shows right hand CV shaft input to diff which I hope to modify
Hopefully with this CV mod ill get away from disassembling the suspension like this to replace broken CVs. I say that but iv only ever broken one.
Also in the background you might see the 1” lift blocks I put in last weekend. Brought of trademe for about $120.
This diff has been a bit of a headache.
The crown wheel and pinion was smashed – Now replaced. Thank you to those concerned – You know who you are-
The CV shaft conversion shaft was the wrong spline length and wouldn’t engage the snap ring – Had to buy a GV axle shaft and left hand axle flange to start again. So this is the second stub shaft, remember this.
Also lots of new bearings and seals ready to go Yea Right.
Got some lovely new diff lowering brackets to correct CV angle after my 2” spring lift I did a couple of years ago.
Inquired through Bits4vits on price including postage from the UK. Dave replied with some options, but the best one he suggested was to contact Outdoor Auto in Oz. I paid $200 Oz money plus 50 freight. Cool.
Just like in Weemseys Escudo Build, there is a prob. where the bolts from the CV flange, interfere with the last bolt on the diff mount.
I counter sunk this bolthole for the approate bolt but thinking this would be enough.
Below.
Laid the original CV shaft (the one with the splines on both ends) along side the proposed new CV shaft (robed from me parts bin off the other side of a similar vehicle) thought SWEET all looks good.
Bolted new stubby shaft on a yep now too long. BUGGER.
Below.
Realistically the stubby shaft needs about 18mm of flange adjustment. But it ant going to get it because it will wipe out the diff bracket. So it will get about 10mm of removing flange, re machining etc. Countersunk holes in the back for the 3 flange bolts.
So yea 3rd stubby shaft hopefully tomorrow.
If the 3rd stubby shaft wont work ie binding the sterring or suspention travel, im goping to pull pin and get a standard GV 28 spline compleet CV shaft an bung it in. see how we go.
Just an extra poto because i can NOW!
Cheers MIKE.
The original aluminum diff is prone to busting due to rock damage and axle torque.
I acquired the steel diff of a dude who had it for a wile in the shed, who acquired of an another dude.
It already had the drive shaft conversion to the right hand side, so you can use the left side half shaft.
Was also complete with air locker.
Iv come up against a stoppage so now is a good time to start a build diary build thing page.
Picture above is from the Bits4Vits sight. It a steel GV axle with the right hand CV shaft conversion. Now I have a chance to aspire.
This is where to keep your water and oil mix. photo also shows right hand CV shaft input to diff which I hope to modify
Hopefully with this CV mod ill get away from disassembling the suspension like this to replace broken CVs. I say that but iv only ever broken one.
Also in the background you might see the 1” lift blocks I put in last weekend. Brought of trademe for about $120.
This diff has been a bit of a headache.
The crown wheel and pinion was smashed – Now replaced. Thank you to those concerned – You know who you are-
The CV shaft conversion shaft was the wrong spline length and wouldn’t engage the snap ring – Had to buy a GV axle shaft and left hand axle flange to start again. So this is the second stub shaft, remember this.
Also lots of new bearings and seals ready to go Yea Right.
Got some lovely new diff lowering brackets to correct CV angle after my 2” spring lift I did a couple of years ago.
Inquired through Bits4vits on price including postage from the UK. Dave replied with some options, but the best one he suggested was to contact Outdoor Auto in Oz. I paid $200 Oz money plus 50 freight. Cool.
Just like in Weemseys Escudo Build, there is a prob. where the bolts from the CV flange, interfere with the last bolt on the diff mount.
I counter sunk this bolthole for the approate bolt but thinking this would be enough.
Below.
Laid the original CV shaft (the one with the splines on both ends) along side the proposed new CV shaft (robed from me parts bin off the other side of a similar vehicle) thought SWEET all looks good.
Bolted new stubby shaft on a yep now too long. BUGGER.
Below.
Realistically the stubby shaft needs about 18mm of flange adjustment. But it ant going to get it because it will wipe out the diff bracket. So it will get about 10mm of removing flange, re machining etc. Countersunk holes in the back for the 3 flange bolts.
So yea 3rd stubby shaft hopefully tomorrow.
If the 3rd stubby shaft wont work ie binding the sterring or suspention travel, im goping to pull pin and get a standard GV 28 spline compleet CV shaft an bung it in. see how we go.
Just an extra poto because i can NOW!
Cheers MIKE.
well worth doing the mod.