Hey fellas, just wondering if anyone could offer some lift advice for my 70 series MWB landcruiser.
I'd like to do the odd 4wd weekender type mission, fairly serious mud and I also use it on-road for towing to motorsport events. Talking with a few people who would say an MT/R tyre would give me a good balance for onroad/offroad.
Budget is around 2.5k stretchable to 3..
Cheers.
Lifting a BJ74
Hi Tank
reset springs will generally sag again within a year unless they put in an extra 'helper' leaf. Unfortunately this stiffens up the vehicle and will cause it to ride harsh and to cross axle sooner
I am a big fan of Old Man Emu, I used to sell and fit them and feel they have the best backup and range in NZ.
They have poly spring pads between the leaves which aid movement, greasable shackles etc.
That said you 2.5k will probably be stretched
J Top
reset springs will generally sag again within a year unless they put in an extra 'helper' leaf. Unfortunately this stiffens up the vehicle and will cause it to ride harsh and to cross axle sooner
I am a big fan of Old Man Emu, I used to sell and fit them and feel they have the best backup and range in NZ.
They have poly spring pads between the leaves which aid movement, greasable shackles etc.
That said you 2.5k will probably be stretched
J Top
The budget option would be the MaxiTrac range - having said that I think they perform really well for the price... you can buy a full set of 50mm lifted springs and long travel shocks for under $1200 for a cruiser. Be wary of some of the brands out there tho... used to sell some Ironman stuff and had nothing but trouble with it... it might be better now, but this was only a year or so ago...
Tyres - 33 x 12.5 BFG muddies would be my pick - or even the same size Goodyear MT/Rs... both good wearing and good performing tyres. I wouldn't go anything more serious tread-wise if you tow with it and do a lot of street work. Expect to pay more for your tyres than your suspension... from memory the 33 inch BFG is around $350/tyre (+ rims, + fitting etc)
Steve
Tyres - 33 x 12.5 BFG muddies would be my pick - or even the same size Goodyear MT/Rs... both good wearing and good performing tyres. I wouldn't go anything more serious tread-wise if you tow with it and do a lot of street work. Expect to pay more for your tyres than your suspension... from memory the 33 inch BFG is around $350/tyre (+ rims, + fitting etc)
Steve
And the most budget option of all is to grab ten nylon spacer blocks. 50 mm high, 50 mm dia and a 12 mm hole in the middle.
Unbolt the body mounts down one side and lift the body up. Put blocks into the body mounts and replace some of the body mount bolts with longer ones where needed. Then do the other side. This will give you enough clearance for your tyres. You have still got your steering angles and all that as factory which is good for handling. Only the body has been lifted up and you have kept the mass of weight ie. the chassis and engine and gearbox, at the original height.
Things to watch. Brake lines all cope, fuel filler pipe stays with body. too easy.
undo the slip spline joint on the steering shaft to allow for stretch. You will possibly have to cut a bit out of radiator shroud. Last but not least is making sure the gear levers don't touch the body work. Stick in vice and bend if needed.
I did all this for a six pack of DB export on my 60 series years ago. Thanks for the blocks and bolts klompy.
Could buy a locker instead. Or maybe a winch and bull bar.
Cheers
Jungle
Unbolt the body mounts down one side and lift the body up. Put blocks into the body mounts and replace some of the body mount bolts with longer ones where needed. Then do the other side. This will give you enough clearance for your tyres. You have still got your steering angles and all that as factory which is good for handling. Only the body has been lifted up and you have kept the mass of weight ie. the chassis and engine and gearbox, at the original height.
Things to watch. Brake lines all cope, fuel filler pipe stays with body. too easy.
undo the slip spline joint on the steering shaft to allow for stretch. You will possibly have to cut a bit out of radiator shroud. Last but not least is making sure the gear levers don't touch the body work. Stick in vice and bend if needed.
I did all this for a six pack of DB export on my 60 series years ago. Thanks for the blocks and bolts klompy.
Could buy a locker instead. Or maybe a winch and bull bar.
Cheers
Jungle
Can't find anything about body lifts ...
Certification Thresholds:
http://www.lvvta.org.nz/CertThresholdSc ... il04V3.pdf
Vehicle inspection requirements manual - In-service certification
WOF & COF Guide
http://www.ltsa.govt.nz/publications/vi ... index.html
Certification Thresholds:
http://www.lvvta.org.nz/CertThresholdSc ... il04V3.pdf
Vehicle inspection requirements manual - In-service certification
WOF & COF Guide
http://www.ltsa.govt.nz/publications/vi ... index.html
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Who knew Prados could fly?
Who knew Prados could fly?
A-HA! Now I know who we're talking about. 
Hurry up and do whatever you decide before you go and get all married... cos that puts a dent in toys bigtime... and before you know it there'll be little rugrats draining the toy fund...
If you really want to tow with it then SOA is probably not the right move... although a coil conv might be. Come down to the shed sometime and have a beer... we can throw some ideas around.
Steve
Hurry up and do whatever you decide before you go and get all married... cos that puts a dent in toys bigtime... and before you know it there'll be little rugrats draining the toy fund...
If you really want to tow with it then SOA is probably not the right move... although a coil conv might be. Come down to the shed sometime and have a beer... we can throw some ideas around.
Steve
mine tows good with soa..
I did my 50mm body lift. $10 from briscoes..
2 chopping boards. hole saw. rejigged how the factory blocks sit. used the chopping board where the factory ones were.. all good for 2 years now..
Buy new springs, much better than reset ones. dont get ironman. still crap. TWL can do koni adjustables for $100 a corner.
I still think you can push the max 49mm lift before cert rule.. just pick where you get your wof
where is your shed steve.. i feel like a beer..
I did my 50mm body lift. $10 from briscoes..
2 chopping boards. hole saw. rejigged how the factory blocks sit. used the chopping board where the factory ones were.. all good for 2 years now..
Buy new springs, much better than reset ones. dont get ironman. still crap. TWL can do koni adjustables for $100 a corner.
I still think you can push the max 49mm lift before cert rule.. just pick where you get your wof
where is your shed steve.. i feel like a beer..
callum007 wrote:where is your shed steve.. i feel like a beer..
Christchurch
The rules are flexible about suspension lifts, as long as they use factory mounts for the springs and the shocks you should be fine.... but a body lift is a definite cert issue.
Also, I would be wary of the Briscoes bodylift... its all good till you have an accident. The shear strength of chopping board polyethylene will be very low, which could see the body part company with the chassis. The product I use is ultra high molecular weight polyethylene, which has a very high impact and shear strength... this is what most body lift blocks from most manufacturers are made from, other than the ones that use Ali rod.
Steve
