Offroad-Express

I need new CVs for my 80 series and due to costs I'm going with OEM.

I'm also going with a Marks Part Time kit to take the load off the front diff and do THA PHATEST SKIDZ EV4R.

My 80 is a '90 which has the 'small' CVs, post '93 (I think) had bigger CVs but in what way? Spline length? I remember reading somewhere that the FWHs that come with the part time kit come with spacers incase you have either CVs.

Is it worth chucking the 'big' CVs in or going with original.

I'm all for going stronger but looking for any possible downsides.

i think u will find the cv is the same just the lenght of stub is different (from what i hear)

in the process of rebuilding my front diff

found out you could get a 240mm CV or a 247mm CV

I think they were the sizes and I got the shorter one and am also putting free wheeling hubs on it too

Sounds familiar to me, some sad excuse for a human being (aka BNT employee) told me once there was two different sizes then at a later date told me there was abs and non abs.

On Ebay.com.au theres a few places promoting 'stronger cvs for early model 80s' which are the bigger cvs and flanges.

Either way, mine are pretty rooted:

shite, that looks better than the one I took out of my 80 on saturday

Hmmmmm Heineken 1 of my best little green friends....

Hi,
Also doing a front axle rebuild and thinking about a part time kit but don't want to use AMV hubs, going to use AISIN.

How much you paying for the the OEM CV's.
Are you replacing the bushes that support the CV.

For the part time seeing if I can buy from the USA as don't have to buy the hubs with it like you do for the MARKS one.

Initially thinking of putting on free wheel hubs and running with the centre diff locked and hubs unlocked.

Cheers
Tim

skid wrote:in the process of rebuilding my front diff

....... am also putting free wheeling hubs on it too

Yours has part time 4wd as well as being a manual trans??

Lucky bugger

If its not actually part time 4wd, and is infact full time 4wd, like i suspect it is from your post's in other thread's, such as when your front UJ spat the dummy, then your are wasting your precious hard earned on free wheeling hubs.

You have absolutly nothing to gain, not even an tiny little bit by putting free wheeling hubs on the front.

What it does mean is that you will have to drive round everywhere with your center diff lock engauged, which is a well known fact that they don't like.

I don't see you mention that you are putting a part time kit in, or that it is already part time 4wd, so if that is the case, then GO THE FREE WHEEL HUBS!!!!!!

I don't see the point of FWHs and locking the centre diff as everything is still turning anyway...?

I'm hard on my truck ...





...so anything to help out the poor girl I'm keen.

Re: AVM hubs, I don't really mind what I get at this stage, if I start breaking them then I'll be upset but I'll source a set of spare parts for them anyway.

DieselBoy wrote:

skid wrote:in the process of rebuilding my front diff

....... am also putting free wheeling hubs on it too

Yours has part time 4wd as well as being a manual trans??

Lucky bugger

If its not actually part time 4wd, and is infact full time 4wd, like i suspect it is from your post's in other thread's, such as when your front UJ spat the dummy, then your are wasting your precious hard earned on free wheeling hubs.

You have absolutly nothing to gain, not even an tiny little bit by putting free wheeling hubs on the front.

What it does mean is that you will have to drive round everywhere with your center diff lock engauged, which is a well known fact that they don't like.

I don't see you mention that you are putting a part time kit in, or that it is already part time 4wd, so if that is the case, then GO THE FREE WHEEL HUBS!!!!!!

mate thats doing most of it for me has been running around with hubs and a manual for years with no adverse effects.

drive flanges are poked so its a good way to replace them if I have hubs lying around

and I have no idea wot I'm talking about but it sounds good

True, well, it is a cheap way to replace the drive flanges then!!!!

There is no benefit from them unless you have a part time kit though.

As you have to have the center diff locked in order to get any sort of forwards drive, you are still turning all of the running gear in the front, drive shaft, diff, axles etc which are the main things that sap Hp, so you are not gaining anything whats so ever.

The whole point of free wheeling hubs is to allow the front driveline to remain stationary, therefore stopping it sapping Hp on the road where it is not needed.

As you are full time 4wd, and have to have the diff locked in order to move, you are turning that front drive line anyway, so there is no point!!!

Well, ok, there could be a point if you want to do 2wd drifts on a gravel road, and as you said a cheap way to replace the drive flanges as you have some in the shed, but other wise there is absolutly no benefit to be gained from it.

Andrew1706 wrote:I don't see the point of FWHs and locking the centre diff as everything is still turning anyway...?

I'm hard on my truck ...

Read my post above.

If thats still not clear, use google to research how full time 4wd works as i can't be bothered to explain it to you.

Also, you might want to think you aproach to 4 wheeling, purely based on those photo's of course

Hi Pete,

Interested in in your comment

with your center diff lock engauged, which is a well known fact that they don't like

Is this because people have had failures or because Toyota have said this or some other reason.

If it was okay to lock the center diff and fitted free wheel hubs agree that there would be no advantage from a fuel efficiency point of view, but would reduce the wear on the front diff and CV's and CV splines as there would be no load on the wearing surfaces plus it would remove some of the drive line backlash.

One other possible small advantage is you can have low range 2wd on the tarmac and not wind up the transmission.

So for me the first and main question is, is it okay to have the center diff locked all the time while the the FWH are disengaged.
The second question is how hard do you intend to drive the trucks as drive flanges are most likely to be stronger than FWH and definitely easier to make the drive flange to hub connection much stronger as it would appear that some of the guys in the States have had problems with failures.

Thanks
Tim

Hehehe, now it all fall's apart.......

I have "heard", I have"read", i have "seen Pictures" of center diff failures from being locked on the open road on the interweb, manily on IH8MUD.

This was good enough for me not to do it.

The internet is always right, people on forums are always experts, so it miust be true eh??

You can have low range with out the center diff locking by unpluging one of the two plug's on the back of the transfercase. By doing that, the center diff is only locked on command via the dash mounted switch. I find it great for reversing trailers

As for avantages, i still think being able to do 2WD skid's would out weight significantly reduced wear and tear on the cv's and drive flange's!!!!

Aren't you going to have less overall power with this centre difflock method also?
As it'll be splitting drive 50:50 FR. I's assume drive is normally about 40:60 in Fulltime? So does it make the wagon slower as only 50% of the power is going to the rears?

nstacey wrote:Aren't you going to have less overall power with this centre difflock method also?
As it'll be splitting drive 50:50 FR. I's assume drive is normally about 40:60 in Fulltime? So does it make the wagon slower as only 50% of the power is going to the rears?

Errr...no.

think of it as a normal diff but in the centre, it allows differntiation in speeds between front and rear when turning corners but if you lift a wheel it will just spin that wheel and nothing else when open but when locked its...locked. full drive both ways so if you lift a wheel on the front the rear is still driving or if you lift a rear the front still driving.

make sence?

wopass wrote:

nstacey wrote:Aren't you going to have less overall power with this centre difflock method also?
As it'll be splitting drive 50:50 FR. I's assume drive is normally about 40:60 in Fulltime? So does it make the wagon slower as only 50% of the power is going to the rears?

Errr...no.

think of it as a normal diff but in the centre, it allows differntiation in speeds between front and rear when turning corners but if you lift a wheel it will just spin that wheel and nothing else when open but when locked its...locked. full drive both ways so if you lift a wheel on the front the rear is still driving or if you lift a rear the front still driving.

make sence?

Yeah... But if you've put FWH on the front, disenaged them to get 2wd and still running the FT 4wd system was what I meant

nstacey wrote:

wopass wrote:

nstacey wrote:Aren't you going to have less overall power with this centre difflock method also?
As it'll be splitting drive 50:50 FR. I's assume drive is normally about 40:60 in Fulltime? So does it make the wagon slower as only 50% of the power is going to the rears?

Errr...no.

think of it as a normal diff but in the centre, it allows differntiation in speeds between front and rear when turning corners but if you lift a wheel it will just spin that wheel and nothing else when open but when locked its...locked. full drive both ways so if you lift a wheel on the front the rear is still driving or if you lift a rear the front still driving.

make sence?

Yeah... But if you've put FWH on the front, disenaged them to get 2wd and still running the FT 4wd system was what I meant

Errrrr......... no still

Imagine this then:

You have your truck in 2WD, you take a rear axle shaft out, and put the rear wheel back on. Do you think you will still move forward or back wards if you leave the truck in 2wd??

If you have a airlocker, and you engaged that, you would now be able to move.

Exactly the same principle with putting FWH on a fulltime 4wd vehicle. The FWH's have the same effect as pulling the axle out did.

Its simple stuff, use google and do some research, its all there with good diagrams to help get your head round

Hi,

Note for Skid and Andrew.
Started pulling down my front end last night, one of the reasons was due to loose wheel bearing. Found that part of the reason for this is that there is some wear on the bottom of the stub axle where the outboard bearing sits, wear is about 0.1 to 0.2mm. Can feel the step between the worn and unworn surfaces. So I am going to skim and then sleeve to get it back upto design size.
Would pay to check yours.

Also it looks like the CV support bush on the inside of the stub axle is the same as the Hilux ones, will check if that is the case, so if yours are worn don't get them from Toyota $$$$$$, get the trailgear ones from Jafa.

Also Andrew,
How much were your OEM CV's.

Thanks
Tim