intercooling my 1kz-te

[1rugger]

just finished getting everything ready to put a prado intercooler on my 1kz-te conversion. thought i'd post it on here as a few people are interested in doing it or similar mods.

i modified the prado intake manifold to get rid of the throttle body and egr system and smoothed out some of the sharp edges in the standard manifold.

intake manifold and intercooler together.

had to modify the throttle since the throttle body is going. so made up a fly by wire throttle by the brake master cyc.also have the prado intake pipe to the turbo,(rocket cover and breather pipes)still to be installed.


will be interesting to see the difference's in egt/power(using my g-tech meter it averaged 100hp at the moment).i am planning on just running the intercooler for a few runs to see egt diff then adjust fuel up to get more power .

[1rugger]

got intercooler,rocket cover,intake manifold & pluming all in the other day only extra thinks needed where 2 plugs for the throttle body heating pipes and also the oil level dip stick hit on the intake pipe which i just bent out of the way as the prado has the dip stick on the other side by the aircon. also cut the hole in the bonnet for the wrx sti scoop. only thing left to do is make a seal between bonnet scoop and intercooler.

[fweddy]

They say the intercooler on a 1kz adds about 15kw. This sound right?

[1rugger]

at the moment it droped 1.5-2psi boost at Full throtle(due to intercooler restriction) and about 50deg c on egt @ 100kph, but won't know the full effect of it untill i get the seal between the scoop and intercooler and wind boost and fuel up to suit. but i'd say you're prob about right.

[evolution02]

Have you done a body lift to help this intercooler fit?
I'm going to fit a KZN185 Surf intercooler to my KZN130 Surf. I am going to use rocker cover and inlet manifold also to help fit.
If it dont fit will have to add a body lift to make up the difference

Cheers

[1rugger]

you will need 2" body lift and it will fit nicely. you will also need the plastic intake pipe instead of the 130 one as they sit in different locations.

[zookfest]

a couple of washers between the bonnet and the bonnet arms can give you that little bit of extra height to,if you need it

[UBZ]

hey been looking at your pics, looks good so far
got a couple of questions

what did you do with the TPS sensor / EGR wiring / idle up wiring when you modified the intake manifold? When i remove the EGR valve from the ECU loom i get an engine fault light , same for the idle up and TPS plugs. I will be bypassing the EGR by shorting the wires together as i know this works. idle up i wish to retain.

My understanding was that the TPS /boost and Injector pump sensors control fuel management so removing the TPS would cause fuel economy to go out the window.
Also didn't think you could open up the fuel on the pump as it is controlled by the ECU

However from what i have been told a 5L injector pump top will fit straight on giving you a manual fuel pump .

been thinking about doing this mod for a while know. very interested in the thread.

[1rugger]

the tps you have to keep so the ecu knows where the throttle is so i made up this adapter and extended the loom to reach.


as for the egr & idle up i just cut them loom and taped them up and didn't have any faults come up. idle up still works fine.
have you removed the butterfly?
as if you have not done this it may fault as it will look for a change in manafold pressure as it would normal get with the egr valve open/idle up open.

you can wind the fuel up a bit by adjusting the spill valve setting although i believe you can get over rev between gear changes if you adjust it too far. i found this on another web site as part of an after market intercooler kit in the states. will try it once i get the intercooler sealed to the scoop.

[UBZ]

Awesome, that's the info i was after.
I have removed the EGR and Butterfly, Made quite difference to the pick up and idle ,plus no more dirty exhaust in my intake prick of a thing to get out with the engine in though. Will have another play with the wiring.

Was your engine out of a Prado or a Surf. I know their are a few minor difference between the earlier and later versions.

keep us posted on the fuel pump mods

C.

[1rugger]

sweet. mine's out of a manual 94 kzn130 surf with 300,000kms but still going strong. if you have a pyro what temp changes did you notice?
mine dropped about 75deg c through out the range except full throttle as the egr shuts off then any way.then intercooling it has dropped est 50degc off higher temps and exhaust temps drop a lot faster when returning to idle. but should be cooler again once intercooler and scoop are sealed then i'll be putting a small fan on the intercooler and hook it up to the temp sensor on intercooler.

will keep you updated as i get things done but will prob be a few weeks.

[UBZ]

I don't have a pyro at the moment , defiantly on the list though.

I have noticed that the water temp is down 5deg and drops alot faster at idle.
Mine is 95 manual kzn-130 surf, only done 160km , great to hear it might make it over the 300 mark.

keep up the good work.

[evolution02]

you will need 2" body lift and it will fit nicely. you will also need the plastic intake pipe instead of the 130 one as they sit in different locations.

Do you know how much gap you have between bonnet and intercooler? If I have to do body lift would like to keep it to a minimum.
What brand pyro do you have and were have you got the sensor?

Cheers
Brendon

[1rugger]

you will need 2" body lift and it will fit nicely. you will also need the plastic intake pipe instead of the 130 one as they sit in different locations.

Do you know how much gap you have between bonnet and intercooler? If I have to do body lift would like to keep it to a minimum.
What brand pyro do you have and were have you got the sensor?

Cheers
Brendon

i have approx 30-40mm clearance but my engine is 10-20mm lower than the surf. i would not want to go any closer as you'll need to seal between you're scoop and intercooler & allow for engine movement.

the pyro i got was one of these, cheap and work well. i positioned it just before the turbo as it stated in the instructions.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 190063.htm

[Macca81]

Old topic, but i just came across this while googling something else and just had to sign up to ask, how did you get the fly-by-wire to work? i would like to do something like this to my surf, but i wouldnt know where to start. The mechanical bit is easy, but could you give a bit of an explination on that part?

[kbushnz]

Welcome ! Macca81
Now to your question......

All of the 1KZTE are fly by wire per say...
The fuel pump is controlled by the ECU and the position of the TPS....
Some models have the TPS mounted to a throttle body which has a couple of butterfly's in it...
They are there only for emission control and making it quieter on shut down etc etc and not really required.
This is driven by a cable from the accelerator. Note on some auto's there is another cable which goes to the box for line pressure control....
Then there are also some that have the TPS built into the accelerator pedal and there is no cables going to the engine at all.....

Search some more on the forum and you will find others, including myself who have removed the throttle body and relocated it....When we did our top mount intercoolers....

[peter_Kzj78]

hi guys,

I am currently spinning the idea (again) of intercooling my Prado 78 1KZ-TE.... you know the issue with the odd shape of the valve rocker cover of the non-IC version compared to IC-factory version. Impossible to get here. I have managed to get an extra valve cover from a breaking yard for 10 euro and think about converting it to a flat head
I saw that some of you did so. my question is the oil strainer pipe which sits on top of it must go but where? there is an oil separation as well, what did you do with that? it is screw mounted and can be taken off easily I guess but what is the purpose of it and how to maintain it?
alternatively I am looking at IC units which are only less than 10" wide but around 25" long (or are you in the metric department like myself?) - that way I could pass by the camelback of the cover but need bit more of piping. any idea if a long unit vs short and wide makes a difference? the capacity is the same by volume or even bigger.
I have an extra intake manifold as well including butterfly. I tell ya, impossible to unscrew the valve body bolts, impossible, the whole thing is about to crack...was thinking to go the same way as shown above.
cheers
peter

[kbushnz]

Interesting, the rocker cover you have has the pipe at the hump, mine has the pipe at the rear drivers side. So when I chopped the hump off it was not an issue...

[peter_Kzj78]

Interesting, the rocker cover you have has the pipe at the hump, mine has the pipe at the rear drivers side. So when I chopped the hump off it was not an issue...

well, that´s interesting, maybe the spare cover I got is of the 90 series, have to go out and check in my car which is the best option I guess
I found it odd as well, because when I changed the cylinder head I had the cover removed and looked different from inside is what I thought...
hang on...
just checked... you are right, my setup is just as you describe - sorry for my silly question istead of looking. would have expected the same thing though...

I was wanting to spare one cover in original form which is not an option at this time then

Calvin, in your IC thread I read you had to shorten the oil pipe on the inside?

Spacewise I saw you have a 30mm lift, did you have to change something with the steering or just lift?

thx mate

[peter_Kzj78]

just checked with toyota data base for the rocker cover, there are plenty....
KZJ78 is 11210-67010
the standard Prado 90 is -67020
and the flat head for IC Prado 90 is -67030

[kbushnz]

Calvin, in your IC thread I read you had to shorten the oil pipe on the inside?

Spacewise I saw you have a 30mm lift, did you have to change something with the steering or just lift?

thx mate

Yes I had to cut off a bit of the pipe.... Pretty simple stuff...

As for the body lift.... Yup it had a 30mmm one give or take.... When I did it the only thing I needed to watch was the brake lines at the front.... As they go between body and chassis....

If you use a factory toyota intercooler you dont need the body lift.... I did a swap for a friend and we just needed to pack the bonnet at the hinges up a wee bit...

[peter_Kzj78]

Calvin, in your IC thread I read you had to shorten the oil pipe on the inside?

Spacewise I saw you have a 30mm lift, did you have to change something with the steering or just lift?

thx mate

Yes I had to cut off a bit of the pipe.... Pretty simple stuff...

As for the body lift.... Yup it had a 30mmm one give or take.... When I did it the only thing I needed to watch was the brake lines at the front.... As they go between body and chassis....

If you use a factory toyota intercooler you dont need the body lift.... I did a swap for a friend and we just needed to pack the bonnet at the hinges up a wee bit...

pack up the bonnet? will it stand up over the edges then? sorry, don´t get it.
the toyo-unit is hard to get here. had one shipped from UK last year but it was a total loss, all crushed vent-blades, bad experience.
if I want to fit a fan below the toyo unit I thought it would become too high.
that´s why I´m looking at taller units which are only about 20 cm wide and I could fit an 7 or 8" fan below it aside of the rocker cover where the AC unit hoses are.

[kbushnz]

To be honest if you are doing the top mount for off road use... forget it.... not enough airflow and it turns into an interheater...
If its just for daily use.... thats fine....
I got rid of the top mount and installed a water to air.... seems to be more stable even on off road situations...

Yes the bonnet will sit up a bit at the edges.
If you want a fan under intercooler.... Then one way would be to allow it to protrude a bit thru the bonnet and find a scoop big enough to cover it....

[peter_Kzj78]

thanks Calvin,
I was thinking about using a fan. read your IC thread carefully over and over. what I don´t get is how you were able to fit the radiator in front. my version runs the AC pipes there and I was struggling to fit the oil cooler for the auto gear box which is a small one.

I attach pics of my oil cooler and a sophisticated CAD drawing I made for my planned intercooler setup.... the place I want to put the fan is quite spacious except for the AC hoses which I think I can bend away a little. the airflow could also go right to the turbo which might be an extra kick (or not).
Looking at different types of ICs and for the moment I am thinking about a unit which has a core of 550x180x65mm which has about 50% more capacity than the original 280x240x65. this way I may even stay with the hump on the rocker cover.
honestly my biggest issue with lacking power is on roads not offroads. the 1KZ pulls quite nicely from low revs, far better than the standard D4D or even the HDJ80. Overtaking trucks is the big hustle, accelerating from 80 - 100 km/h is very slow. the gear box kicks down to 2nd, engine revs and screams to 3500rpm where there is no torque left and so on. sure a known thing. so hope to get the extra punch for such situations primarily.
will produce a woodenbox prototype to see how it fits next days...

thanks for the continued effort!

[kbushnz]

If you need more punch replacing the turbo dump pipe and exhaust system makes a difference... Dump pipe has a huge restriction in it....
Also adjusting the turbo boost as close to 15 psi max before the fuel cut kicks in makes good on a stock vehicle...
There are also ECU chips available which change the fuel settings and also allow you to push the boost higher....
Have a read thru this forum on the 1KZTE upgrades. Search is your friend.....
Also an EGT gauge to monitor your engine is a wise move..... Then you can see what your adjustments / mods are doing.

[peter_Kzj78]

If you need more punch replacing the turbo dump pipe and exhaust system makes a difference... Dump pipe has a huge restriction in it....
Also adjusting the turbo boost as close to 15 psi max before the fuel cut kicks in makes good on a stock vehicle...
There are also ECU chips available which change the fuel settings and also allow you to push the boost higher....
Have a read thru this forum on the 1KZTE upgrades. Search is your friend.....
Also an EGT gauge to monitor your engine is a wise move..... Then you can see what your adjustments / mods are doing.

thx, have read a lot and I am still waiting for my cousin to finish my dump pipe to start with the exhaust project. unfortunately I´m not much of a welder myself
had an ECU chip delivered couple of months ago, installed it without any result, then found out it was for a Bosch VP44 fuel pump and not Denso. Seems that in OZ there are still 1KZ-TE engines delivered in new Hiluxes and Prados or at least have been until recently - all using VP44. Now I wait for the exchange chip box, cost was not too bad at EUR190,- but if it´s not working every Euro is too much. hope to receive it soon and will let you know.

I was looking at a faster spooling turbo (Mamba, think I posted it some time ago) which I still consider to install once the exhaust project can start and this includes adjustable waste gate as well. One step at a time

[Sheepy]

Any update on the chip?

[peter_Kzj78]

still not received the correct unit.
he sent one for the Bosch VP44 pump which didn´t work on the Denso (surprise).
just called him and he said to ship next week. will keep u updated

just returned from a Trip to Corsica/France. free wheeling hubs broke off again (AVM) and now I change the wheel hubs to the ones of first series LJ7 which had the original manual AISINs. AVM is a bad fit, bolts are 1,5cm longer than original set up and they can´t deal with the 33" tyres. so instead of upgrading I have more work to keep it going....