Offroad-Express

Who`s got what, and experiences?

Got a mate that can get me pretty sharp prices, but have no real idea on requirements for offroad. I prolly dont even need any, but hey, if the price is right...

I've seen all sorts used, but from Rallying I think the bigger Hella and Cibie high-end lights are noticably better than most, HOWEVER:

Having seen the performance of the new generation HID lights I couldn't bring myself to buy anything else now. Unfortunately at about two and a half squillion dollars per light, it will be a long time before I get any!

Narva make some pretty good spots too.

Hi guys, Im new to this but have just bought 4x Cibie Spotlights to mount on my 04 Navara, two of the spotties are new and need bulbs, should I put in Narva Blue Power bulbs (I Think thats what there called?) that I put in my headlights or can I go to 100w bulbs and they wont heat up to much or drain to much power? any help would be great.Cheeers!

iv got hella rally 1000's and have owned them for 7years and they are on their 3rd vehicle. awsome spots very bright. and they are still on the original bulbs too... any of the rally series spots are good imo

We used some cheapie Hella spots, bought HID kit for about $150, slight mod to the Hella housing with a hole saw, grommet etc and we have great lights. Light pattern is almost standard, fantastic lights. Saved about a mil compared to branded HIDs.

Thanks, dont really want to cut them up being new spotties, anybody fitted 100w bulbs before? cibie website says they can be used but just wondering about using to much power for battery,Alternator??

just try it, if it uses too much juice it s a good excuse to run dual batteries aye

400w @ 12v draws 33amps which coupled with the rest of the draw from your battery (head lights, stereo etc) should draw say around 40amps.

Most factory alternators in 4wds are around 55amps so you should be fine.

Truth be told, voltage dropage means you wont produce 400w worth of light so you'll be fine.

Andrew1706 wrote: ... Truth be told, voltage dropage means you wont produce 400w worth of light so you'll be fine.

The circuit still uses the 400 watts (or more), just the energy not converted to light is converted to heat in the wiring. In fact the circuit may draw more than 400 watts if all 400 aren't turned into light because then the lamps aren't getting the full voltage and will draw more current.

I have to agree with Warren, I bought a pair of Hella 3000's off trademe for $200, modded the case a little with a drill, bunged in an HID kit ($200 from Autokraft), and they are brilliant setups, bright as fawk, and a nice white light, not yellow like the headlights.
So for $400 I have a nice HID setup, not a squillion dollars like the brand names.

i have a set of ralle 4000's and they are pretty good, just picked up a set of lightforce 240 blitz and they throw alot of light, but im gonna throw hid kits in the 240's, hid lights for half the price, mightnt be as good as the real things but i'm not fussed, only thing that is a bummer is the 4000's and 240's dont fit in the arb bar properly.
And lights this size look gay on a fourby cruising through town!!!!!
my wife calle it a poser wagon just cause of the lights

( setting the wagon up to do heaps of hard touring next year over nz)

Jafa wrote:I have to agree with Warren, I bought a pair of Hella 3000's off trademe for $200, modded the case a little with a drill, bunged in an HID kit ($200 from Autokraft), and they are brilliant setups, bright as fawk, and a nice white light, not yellow like the headlights.
So for $400 I have a nice HID setup, not a squillion dollars like the brand names.

Thanks for that idea guys. Perhaps HID will be doable in the much nearer future than otherwise anticipated. Is there anything particular to look out for with HID kits?

lneil wrote:

Jafa wrote:I have to agree with Warren, I bought a pair of Hella 3000's off trademe for $200, modded the case a little with a drill, bunged in an HID kit ($200 from Autokraft), and they are brilliant setups, bright as fawk, and a nice white light, not yellow like the headlights.
So for $400 I have a nice HID setup, not a squillion dollars like the brand names.

Thanks for that idea guys. Perhaps HID will be doable in the much nearer future than otherwise anticipated. Is there anything particular to look out for with HID kits?

I've got 2 x Cibie Super Oscars, and 2 x Cibie Oscars, all converted to 35w HID using cheap chinese ebay kits.

My recommendations:

Go for 5000k. I went the 6000's, and they've still got a blue tinge to them that turns yellow reflective signs a shade of green.

Unless you need to see 2+ km down the road, get spread lenses on your lights. I had a spread/spot combo on the Super Oscars, and as good as it was, I found replacing the spot with another spread was much better. (Both of the Oscars are spreads too). I can still light up a K away, but light up the area near me much better.

Keep away from the high voltage side of the ballasts when they're turned on. I unplugged mine when they were turned on, and the 23kV spark jumped 50mm to bite me.. Couldn't feel my hand or arm for a couple of hours after that..

Apart from that, revel in the goodness that is HID..

4WDbits wrote:

Andrew1706 wrote: ... Truth be told, voltage dropage means you wont produce 400w worth of light so you'll be fine.

The circuit still uses the 400 watts (or more), just the energy not converted to light is converted to heat in the wiring. In fact the circuit may draw more than 400 watts if all 400 aren't turned into light because then the lamps aren't getting the full voltage and will draw more current.

Using formula
Watts=amps x volts.
Volt drop will cause an increase in amps to supply same load(watts) therefore more heat and drain on battery.Using sufficient size wiring eliminates this, where ever this is resistance such as wire, connectors ther is always a volt drop, so longer the wire step up the size. Not trying to be smart, just want to see how replying to thread works, maybe helpful too.

I am just in the process of converting some IPF 700'S to Digital 55 watt HID so will let everyone know how I get on. Hoping to be able to really get some good light output.
I got told to be wary of the elcheapo units especially the Chinese driving lights that have the HID kit built in.

I've got 2 x Cibie Super Oscars, and 2 x Cibie Oscars, all converted to 35w HID using cheap chinese ebay kits.

My recommendations:

Go for 5000k. I went the 6000's, and they've still got a blue tinge to them that turns yellow reflective signs a shade of green.

Unless you need to see 2+ km down the road, get spread lenses on your lights. I had a spread/spot combo on the Super Oscars, and as good as it was, I found replacing the spot with another spread was much better. (Both of the Oscars are spreads too). I can still light up a K away, but light up the area near me much better.

Keep away from the high voltage side of the ballasts when they're turned on. I unplugged mine when they were turned on, and the 23kV spark jumped 50mm to bite me.. Couldn't feel my hand or arm for a couple of hours after that..

Apart from that, revel in the goodness that is HID..

lmfao
I have had retro fitted HID's for years, love them, but in hindsight, would go for the 4000Kelvins over the 8000K I have now. As for the law........I only use mine "OFF ROAD"
1 draw back from the HID's is that they can be "electically noisey" with some interfearance with FM, UHF and AM bands.

Food for thought.

At this stage I just plan to do the spotlights but wondering if the law regarding HID here is the same as in Australia.
Where you can convert a vehicles spotlights and also high beams in a vehicle with dual headlamps but converting a vehicle with combination hi/lo beam lights is illegal.

For offroad, I'd suggest getting a set of Hella's close range worklamps.

Something like these... http://hella.co.nz/?t=9&pcid=216&sct=1& ... &View=Full

They give an awesome flood of light in all directions for when your in the bush.

And get a couple of driving lights with a good spread pattern for some more distance when you get out in the open.

Regarding the cheaper HID kits as found on ebay some are analog and succeptable to creating radio interference as well as having problems with lights flickering. Digital kits are a little more expensive but seem to have less of these problems.
My old Terrano was running 130/90 QH in the headlights and 130 QH in the driving lights making power consumption around 44amps for the four lights. An HID kit on the driving lights would substantially reduce that. The decision to use HID in the driving lights was very easy. Because my Surf has polycarb headlights upping the wattage in the headlights was not going to be an option because of the heat, several auto electricians warned me against it. I imported some bulbs included in the link below, they are the Ring Xenon Max which are a +100 style of bulb but still having the same current draw and heat output of a 60/55 conventional bulb. Supposedly 100% more light but of course that doesn't mean 100% more range the range is extended by maybe another 30 +metres on dip over a standard 60/55 watt bulb and a little more than that on high beam. The combination of these bulbs plus using a 55watt HID kit in the driving lights has meant I have more than halved my power consumption to less than 20 amps for the four lights over what I was using in the Terrano. http://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/H4-Bulbs/

simply upgrading your std headlights H4 (or similar) to hella +90%s is a cheap and effective way to upgrade your factory lights without having to upgrade looms etc. we have also converted a few hella spotties with the HID kits with great sucess for minimal outlay most of the manufacturers limits on bulb wattage in spotlights is a reflection of the quality of the lens/wiring etc to be able to cope with the extra hi power. IPF XS range are 130w bulbs std...

HID kits are getting easily avaiable here in NZ for around $250. MrO has some in his factory lights on his 80, very cool light, but also illegal in NZ

The most important thing with any light modifications is to compare voltage at the battery to voltage at the lights, my Terrano was particularly bad with 14 volts at the battery producing only 10.2volts at the lights. Connecting the lights to a variable power supply the change from 14volts to 13 volts had a noticable effect on the quantity of light and my guess is that at ten volts we were seeing less than half the light that we were seeing at 14 volts. On the Terrano I fited relays and with the Surf I will also be fitting them even though the voltage drop on the Surf was less than .75 of a volt.
I would still like to know what the regulations are on HID as far as fitting to spotlights or high beam lights so if anyone has a link please let me know.
The IPF 700 Super Rally lights I have aquired are rated at 130 watts so should take the 55 watt HID conversion just fine.

hella says:

http://hella.co.nz/?t=46

Dunno if these will be any good.. cant see why they wouldnt be though...

$48+$38.75 shipping = $90 odd including shipping to NZ


Anyone in CHCH wanna get a pair and split shipping?



Improve your vision at night by 300%!

If you don’t have HID Xenon lights installed in your car, truck, van, or SUV, then now is the time to upgrade. The installation is easy for anyone to complete in 60 minutes or less and we guarantee that once you experience the increased clarity which these HID Xenon bulbs provide, you will never use another halogen bulb again!

yardy yar yar....

at a Glance

* Size 9006 Xenon HID Kit
* Includes mounting hardware
* See farther, wider, clearer
* Works with most modern cars
* Lasts 5x longer than halogens
* Greatly increases driving safety
* 6000K creates natural daylight look
* Extremely simple 60 minute installation
* Waterproof, Dustproof, and Shockproof
* Attractive hint of blue and purple in the light
* Comes with everything you need to get started

Manufacturer Specifications

* Main function: HID Xenon Headlight Kit (9006) – 6000K

* Ballast parameter:
- Input Voltage: 9-32V
- Normal Voltage: 13.5V 3.1A / 24V 1.7A
- Max input Current: 6A
- Rated Current: 3.2A
- Output Wattage: 35W
- Work Temperature: -40 C to 105 C

* Bulb parameter:
- Color Temperature: 6000K
- Life: 2500-3000 Hours
- Lumens: 3200
- Lamp Base: 9006

* Dimensions Ballast: 89mm x 76mm x 32mm
* Cable length from ballast to bulb: 530mm
* Manufacturer Ref: 66RGSA60000


Product Notes

* Conversion kit includes HID Xenon bulbs and the lamp ballasts required to operate them.
* Reduced power consumption means less fuel consumption, so HID Xenon bulbs help you save money at the gas pumps!
* The superior performance of your headlights could very well mean the difference between stopping in time and being involved in a serious accident!
* Many people believe that the higher the color temperature the brighter the lamp. This is completely wrong. The color temperature is a scale to measure the color of the light. The higher up the scale the lamps are, the less bright they become. For the best lighting performance we recommend 6000K HID lamps. This is because they give you light that is very close to the natural daylight emitted by the sun with just a hint of blue and purple

Package Contents for Model CVJK-A58

* 2x HID Lamp Ballast With Bulbs
* Mounting Hardware
* User Manual - English


FAQ - Frequently Asked Questions

* Why can I not just replace the halogen bulb in my vehicle with Xenon HID lamps without having to purchase the entire kit?
Motorcycles and automobiles currently use a 12 Volt electrical system for their headlamps. True Xenon HID lighting systems require over 20,000 volts to ignite the bulbs. Once lit, they only require 12 volts to keep running. This kit includes the power pack that is necessary for the lamps to turn on.
* Could I re-install the original halogen bulbs after the Xenon HID kit has been installed?
With the growing popularity of leasing vehicles, a big concern is whether or not you can bring the vehicle back to its original factory condition. Our kits install with little or no modifications to your vehicle. If need be, the entire kit can be removed and the original halogen bulbs replaced. This kit can be re-installed into another vehicle that uses the same bulb size.
* Could I Install the kit myself?
For anyone who is mechanically inclined, this installation is considered "do-it-yourself". While a typical installation takes approximately an hour, it can vary depending on application. If you are uncomfortable installing them yourself you can hire a professional to do it for about $30-$50 depending on the mechanic.
* Are these bulbs used for low beam or high beam replacements?
These bulbs are replacements for low beam, normal night time or poor weather driving lights. Their brightness and strength extends driving vision and enhances safety.
* Will these bulbs blind oncoming drivers?
No. Despite their brightness, their glow most closely resembles daylight and does not cause a blinding glare.

they look to be low beam only , no good if you run a single Hi/Low style bulb.... ie most 4wds...

Unfortunately, HID kits fitted into a vehicle are illegal.

from the WOF VIRM:

Note 8 A high-intensity discharge (HID or Xenon HID) conversion kit consists of an HID bulb with a high voltage power output or ‘ballast’ which fits into the original headlamp unit in place of the original bulb with no change to the headlamp lens, reflector or housing. It is illegal to fit an HID conversion kit to a vehicle as it brings the headlamp out of standards compliance by producing poor beam patterns and light that is far too bright to be safe. The bulbs can also produce light that is noticeably blue and not the required substantially white or amber colour. Vehicle and headlamp manufacturers do not permit this modification, and these kits cannot be LVV certified. It is permitted to replace a complete halogen headlamp unit with a complete HID headlamp unit.

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There is nothing stopping anyone putting them in a spotlight/driving light set.
Also they are ok in a light rack that is on the roof (for eg) as they aren't a wof item.

Thanks for the info on HID looks like I am on the right track Ring +100 will be the way to fix standard headlights without too much drama at warrant time and will not go with the HID for the headlights but will do HID for the driving lamps.

I had a case a few years ago where my Hella Comet 550's on the Terrano nudge bar had blown a bulb but didn't realise this until I was away on holiday and had to visit a local garage for a WOF(these guys are notorious for charging out of towners extra). The robbing bastard charged me $50 bucks for the warrant and wanted $28 for one halogen bulb. He failed me on the warrant because of the spotlight but while he was checking the rest of the vehicle I whipped the lights off so he then had to give me the warrant. I got the Terrano back to where we were staying and put the lights back on and picked up two halogen bulbs in another town a few days later for $18. Never will use that Garage again. I had no idea that you could be failed on driving lights but his interpretation was if they are on the vehicle they have to work.

Fourbyfour wrote:his interpretation was if they are on the vehicle they have to work.

Thats what it says, crap I know.

yep, i got a wof failed for a switch i had installed in a bank of switches (fog lights, spot lights, reverse light) that wasnt wired up to anything, it was just an extra switch that i installed there for the electric radiator fan, when i get around to putting it on... its got NO wires connected to the back of it at all, and he failed wof with that exact line "if its there it has to work" ....
go figure huh? unscrewed it in 5 seconds . . . then screwed it back in right in front of him as he was putting the wof sticker on

as far as bulbs go, its even worse when they put them in for you, without your permission - at 3x the retail price PLUS LABOUR, and then wont let you take the vehicle away without paying for them, he let me in the end when i threatened to go get the cops, no mechanic or anyone for that matter can hold your vehicle for any reason, ever.... with the exception of maybe the police/impound
you are entitled to take your vehicle elsewhere for a second opinion before you pay the invoice...... I paid the $42 for the wof and nothing else, never heard from them again

another one:
took my landy for its wof to a place i dont usually go out of convenience (it always passes anyway) and was promptly told it needed mudflaps on the back............. so i said "but its passed 19 wofs since i've owned it without mudflaps on, why does it need them for a wof?"
his explanation "i can see more than 20% of your tyre from the back" ... ok, fair comment.... you can see 20% of anyones tyre from the back if u think about it.. i thought about this for a moment, and decided it was going to cost more than $45 for a pair of mud flaps, so why not gamble it?
took it down the road to ANOTHER garage ive never used before, passed with flying colours

where is the consistency.........

maybe we should start a WOF thread?

Landynut wrote:maybe we should start a WOF thread?

Ha, dont even go there !