Offroad-Express

hey all
bout time I got stuck into the lexlux

any way im about to mount the ifs steering box to my ln65 and my question is
where is the best/prime mounting spot?

ive got the mounting kit off jafa also
the truck has a 3" body lift and 35" tyres so i may have to move the front axel forward
thanks
jeremy

With 35s you'll want to use rear leaves up front to move your diff forward.

Starting point.

http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/Forums/ ... f=1&t=5192

slap a set of rears up front (in standard mounts but you need to make some new shackles about 5.5" between holes). This moves the front axle foward 2". Mix and match a pack to suit your truck. Ive used the 2 main leaves off the rears pack, 1 of the mains from the front pack cut down a little and 2 of the longer leaves from the front pack for a 5 leaf pack. I used to have 4 but it sat too low. It flexes awesome aswell. Ive moved my front axle foward another 40mm (through redrilling the perch) as 35's were still rubbing the firewall even though it had been smacked with a sledge hammer.

Then mount your steering box as far forward as you can get it. You will probably have to trim the front panel.

This is my recipe for getting bigger tyres on a lux anyway and getting it to flex. Its not entirely related to your original question but it may help you in making a decision on where to mount your box.

thanks guys, ive got a bit to think about now
at the start i were planing on rears up front but found a cheap set of 4" lifted parabolic springs
re drilled perchers and new shackles will be a go'er, the ranchos have about 4" of upwards travel at the moment
thanks
jeremy

On the new truck I fitted the 70 series box which have stronger internals, and 4 bolt mounting.
I fitted a prado arm again, don't make the mistake a few guys have and use a prado box and turn the arm around, they steer the wrong way
Here's a pic, definately the way to go but more expensive to purchase the box.

hey all
I should rename this topic, "problems holding me up"

latest issue- driveline angles

my trucks got a 3" body lift and 2" driveline lift
im unsure if i should have the engine/gearbox sloping down at the gearbox end.
ive got the cross member tack welded so the tapet covers run paralelle with the chassis rails, giving me 1.5" clearance between the top of gearbox and gearbox tunnel

the rear drive shaft needs to be longer- easy
the front drive shaft's double cardan doesnt alow it to drop far enough, the drive shaft flange hangs above the front diff



heres a recap of what im doing
ln65 d/c
1uzfe/r151f
2" drivetrain lift
3" body lift
4" susspention lift
35" silverstones
ohhhhhh yea


thanks
germ

i could use the stock rear driveshaft with mine .. in fact i still am lol
what mounts are you using ?
i pushed my uz down and back when i stuck it in

hey wayne
im using kelvins mounts
il take some pics today

arh yeap kelvins mounts are different to mine.. i wanted the engine as low and far back as i could get it

ahhhh, it sits right back in there, the hand break pully used to hit the head- while i was setting up the crossmember the gearbox slipped off the stand ramming the head into the pully with the weight off the gearbox/engine, lots of clearance now lol

any way heres some pics, yes it is a mess and the gearbox cross member is "crude" and tacked in for now

You could stick a Hi Pinion diff out of a Prado or 80 series in the front, and also clearance your double carden joint will give you heaps more angle, heres how

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/cvmod/

looks like ill be relocating the anti tramp bar- i think thats what you call it
its right where i want to weld jafas inner plate

ive also noticed the beam axle front drive shaft has more flex compared to a ifs but its not as beefy
pics tomorow
jeremy

hey all, im after a second oppinion before I start welding the plates in

does this looki about right? im aiming to mount it as far forward as the plates will allow

That looks like a quite a steep angle. There will be a fair bit of leverage on the top bolt, so I like to get that as close to the chassis rails as possible. Also helps with flattening the drag link out. The more angle on your drag link, the more prone you are to bump steer.
Not sure how big your plates are, but remember that chassis rail is not very thick, so the more you spread the load over them, the better. And make sure you use crush tubes.
Other than that, looks good. Carry on

i dont have a pic of the mounting plates, but their jafas
they have crush tubes,
i was planing on welding flat bar between the plates at the upper exposed area for extra strengh

by flattening out the drag link do you mean heating it up and pressing it?

with jafas plates thats about where it has to sit
thanks
jeremy

No heat. You need to have the drag link as flat as possible from the pitman arm to the knuckle steering arm. Bump steer is caused by the effective length of the drag link being made longer as it swings in an upward arc when the wheels hit a bump. The effect is lessened when the drag link sits flatter as it is not swinging on as much of an arc (ie it is just moving either side of a neutral position.

And just as added strength it is good to see the mounting plates extend beyond the size of the mounting surface on the steering box. It just helps transfer some more of the stress's that are produced through the steering. If you are not running big tyres, this is not so much of an issue though.

thanks, ill try reduce the angle on the steering box so i can use a flat arm,
i found this page, maybe useful for some one
http://www.trail-gear.com/pdf/110041-1.pdf
thanks
jeremy

well this is how it looks, hope ill fit a flat arm in there

Looks good fella.

im thinking theres not going to be enough room to mount the flat pitman arm

anybody got one that i can borrow??

also been thinking
the plan was to mount the radiator behind the deck
but after looking at other members builds I like the idea of chopping the front end of the truck off from the firewall forward and space framing the front end and have all panels ect bolt on as per normal,
but ill have room to mount my 3core cruiser radiator up front

it would also make room for a good set of headers, bigger shock hoops air filter ect
could also make it so the space frame bolts to the firewall

now my trucks got a 3" body lift that im not realy happy about
theres alot of flex and leaverage in the mounts and extending them with nylon blocks can only make it worse
I were thinking of replacing the nylon blocks with steel one and welding them to the chassis with extra bracing for strengh and using the factory mounts

surely that would help???

Ive also got to keep the cert man happy

what do you guys think??
thanks
Jeremy

whats the reason for the huge body lift??

big tyres and engine mounts have been made to lift the driveline 2"
Im thinking I should have used standard engine mounts with no body lift
hmmmmm