Offroad-Express

am praying these are not terminal but need to deal with them asap before something bad happens.

this was evident in 3rd gear BEFORE my manual mods. I was hoping it was a dodgey sensor and my manual shit mod would fix it- however its just made it more evident.

first gear- engine braking, drives awesome.

second gear - engine braking, drives awesome.

third gear - no engine braking. If i back off the throttle revs will drop to idle without affecting trucks speed. truck seems to kinda "free wheel". Getting on teh gas will see no effect untill revs are up again past stall speed.

ALSO revs/engine braking will intermittently PULSE on and off. Revs will increase up and truck will engine brake and then revs will drop again to idle. Repeat.

clutch lockup (on a switch) will operate well AS LONG as engine at or above tq converter stall speed. Back off the throttle and the lockup will diss engage........sometimes. this is intermittent as is the pulsing.

fourth gear- Same as third but no problems with pulsing or dropping out of tq converter lockup. Infact now that i think about it the box WILL engine brake in 4th while lockup is on.

Wondering if its a problem with the over run solenoid?

Due to this, when it was full auto I always drove with overdrive off so it was sluggish in town (in 4th gear all the time). /got sick of it pulsing in 3rd and i didnt want it to wear anything out.

Would a trans flush help?

Engine is not using original trans cooler and instead has two aftermarket units up front.

Thanks,
Nathan

flyingbrick wrote:am praying these are not terminal but need to deal with them asap before something bad happens.

this was evident in 3rd gear BEFORE my manual mods. I was hoping it was a dodgey sensor and my manual shit mod would fix it- however its just made it more evident.

first gear- engine braking, drives awesome.

second gear - engine braking, drives awesome.

third gear - no engine braking. If i back off the throttle revs will drop to idle without affecting trucks speed. truck seems to kinda "free wheel". Getting on teh gas will see no effect untill revs are up again past stall speed.

ALSO revs/engine braking will intermittently PULSE on and off. Revs will increase up and truck will engine brake and then revs will drop again to idle. Repeat.

clutch lockup (on a switch) will operate well AS LONG as engine at or above tq converter stall speed. Back off the throttle and the lockup will diss engage........sometimes. this is intermittent as is the pulsing.

fourth gear- Same as third but no problems with pulsing or dropping out of tq converter lockup. Infact now that i think about it the box WILL engine brake in 4th while lockup is on.

Wondering if its a problem with the over run solenoid?

Due to this, when it was full auto I always drove with overdrive off so it was sluggish in town (in 4th gear all the time). /got sick of it pulsing in 3rd and i didnt want it to wear anything out.

Would a trans flush help?

Engine is not using original trans cooler and instead has two aftermarket units up front.

Thanks,
Nathan

Hi Nathan,

What is the mileage of your truck? If it is 250 + more than likely it has the same problem I just had (mine had 275 k's).
My torque converter shat itself, inside the unit and then the debris went through the rest of the trans and lunched it. I ended up replacing the torque converter completely as it was beyond overhaul and the trans got a full overhaul. I know the guy in the trans shop and I got it for a good price. All up $2750.00 plus GST.
The reason I am telling you this is because if you catch it early enough, you may not have to replace or overhaul your whole transmission. My advice would be to get it checked out sooner rather than later.

Cheers

Jase.

P.s. I have a good 24 volt auto sitting in my shed if you need to replace it. I bought it to replace mine, but sadly it was quite different to the one I needed. I paid $400 for it. you can have it for the same.

If you need a rebuild, look on TM, think there was a company up north that do an exchange on a recon'd box for around $2100.

But then again, if it's that bad, throw a manual in it

thanks guys

yeah manual is looking better and better all the time. + I'm getting quite jealous of these PTO's.....but then again I'm getting way too lazy to work a clutch.

I think I'll get the trans flushed and see if that makes a difference.

Cheers all.

-Nathan

A little more worried than i was 10 minutes ago.

Its can make quite a difference just doing the trans flush/filter. Hopefully thats all it is. I ended up not minding my auto, but the new GQ is manual, and I prefer it.

Get the trans flushed but you want to get the filter cut open to see what is inside as that will tell all. I got mine rebuilt and upgraded all at the same time and that only cost $3k. The is basically the same auto that I am running now.

For you manual conversion you shouldn't need to operate the over run clutch at all so turn it off leave it off and it should be all good. The only thing you will notice is a bit of surging at low revs in 4th when engine braking.

My suggestion is to get the auto done sooner rather than later as it will save a lot of money. And at the same time either get a shift kit fitted or get a full valve body from Oz depending on budget (or lack there of)

Thanks Darin.

do you know what exactly causes the surging in 4th?

I'm not really keen on getting the auto built or upgraded. It'd be going manual with a HD clutch way before I spend 3k on the auto.

And FFS. Really wanted some 16x10 alloys. Don't want to spend money on the box

Yeah I let my auto go too long till I lost 3rd and 4th, Although most the damage was done by previous owner. Put in a manuel and love it. I would never buy another auto in a saf. Just got to fit the PTO now.

The only advantage manual has over an auto is the PTO. A manual shift auto will out perform a manual Safari (as long as you have enough power) all day everyday if you know how to drive it. (but that is a whole other arguement that can only be done justice with a few beers)
But if you want a manual conversion, there is one sitting in my shed minus clutch that is most likely for sale. We have converted it to auto!

darinz wrote:The only advantage manual has over an auto is the PTO. A manual shift auto will out perform a manual Safari (as long as you have enough power) all day everyday if you know how to drive it. (but that is a whole other arguement that can only be done justice with a few beers)
But if you want a manual conversion, there is one sitting in my shed minus clutch that is most likely for sale. We have converted it to auto!

PTO is the main reason I got a manual to start with, but I also prefer driving a manual anyway. The manual shift auto would be great to try out, although I've always had it in my head that auto's are too expensive to modify/repair, when I can go buy another manual box for a few hundred dollars.

I must admit, the control I had offroad with the auto was great, and the only downside was that the truck was too underpowered to make the most of it though

Takes more money to properly setup an auto but if you're prepared to do so, then they are so much better at getting the power to the ground

The manual valve body on my auto is $1350 AU plus frieght etc so not cheap. However being able to change gears at 7000rpm without lifting off and hardly feeling it is a great thing.
I think the biggest advantage is being able to change gears very fast without losing momentum (low power) or breaking traction.
The whole engine breaking arguement is a load of shit as engine breaking is a low skill driving style. Learn the advanced left foot breaking techniques and you'll hardly use engine breaking again. BUT it takes some practice.
It is one of those things where you have to decide what is important. If you can afford to, you will never regret fitting a worked auto. Standard have some draw backs which makes the decision a bit harder.

PS the manual in my shed comes complete with a near new ultra heavy duty clutch and everything needed to go from auto to manual. ie will handle 20+psi boost.
A lot put a pto ahead of auto, I don't which is why I built a fairly extreme electric winch.

darinz wrote:The manual valve body on my auto is $1350 AU plus frieght etc so not cheap. However being able to change gears at 7000rpm without lifting off and hardly feeling it is a great thing.
I think the biggest advantage is being able to change gears very fast without losing momentum (low power) or breaking traction.
The whole engine breaking arguement is a load of shit as engine breaking is a low skill driving style. Learn the advanced left foot breaking techniques and you'll hardly use engine breaking again. BUT it takes some practice.
It is one of those things where you have to decide what is important. If you can afford to, you will never regret fitting a worked auto. Standard have some draw backs which makes the decision a bit harder.


PS the manual in my shed comes complete with a near new ultra heavy duty clutch and everything needed to go from auto to manual. ie will handle 20+psi boost.
A lot put a pto ahead of auto, I don't which is why I built a fairly extreme electric winch.

Thanks Darin.

this manual valve body- Could this part potentially correct /replace whats clogged/faulty with my box at the moment?

How much are you wanting for this manual conversion?

-Nathan

get a spare auto .. ill rebuild your valve body

vvega wrote:get a spare auto .. ill rebuild your valve body

we should totally shim the crap out of a few things and drill a few ports out larger.

will get a spare auto, wayne. Cheers.

PS, may pop around with the gf sometime today and say hi.

The manual is going back into the truck we took it out off to be used as a tow truck and the auto is going to be rebuilt and modified for an off road toy.

flyingbrick wrote:

darinz wrote:The manual valve body on my auto is $1350 AU plus frieght etc so not cheap. However being able to change gears at 7000rpm without lifting off and hardly feeling it is a great thing.
I think the biggest advantage is being able to change gears very fast without losing momentum (low power) or breaking traction.
The whole engine breaking arguement is a load of shit as engine breaking is a low skill driving style. Learn the advanced left foot breaking techniques and you'll hardly use engine breaking again. BUT it takes some practice.
It is one of those things where you have to decide what is important. If you can afford to, you will never regret fitting a worked auto. Standard have some draw backs which makes the decision a bit harder.


PS the manual in my shed comes complete with a near new ultra heavy duty clutch and everything needed to go from auto to manual. ie will handle 20+psi boost.
A lot put a pto ahead of auto, I don't which is why I built a fairly extreme electric winch.

Thanks Darin.

this manual valve body- Could this part potentially correct /replace whats clogged/faulty with my box at the moment?

How much are you wanting for this manual conversion?

-Nathan

I wouldn't suggest fitting an expensive custom VB to an old questionable auto. I'd be inclined to ensure the auto was 100% before doing that sort of mod as you hate for the auto to shit it's self and clog / damage the VB.