Offroad-Express

got 33 mudders on my 40 series cruiser but they rub on the guards (front and back) wen flexed. have already cut rear guards and am wondering which option to try next.
any advice much appreciated.

I reckon that the shackle lift will be a quick fix but may cause your truck to be even more tippy plus make it more soggy on the road.

Best option is the body lift so you don't lift the centre of gravity of the vehicle much higher and you keep the current handling characteristics. The shackle lift will change the angle of the front diff and therefore change the castor angle and could possibly upset the steering a little.

2 cents worth.

Jungle

Cutting the rear guards should give almost enough room, although they will still rub on the inside when the axle twists. You can add 6mm spacers pretty cheaply to make a surprising amount of difference - they just get sandwiched between the hub and the wheel rim. It's also surprising how much they add to stability. Longer rear shackles may also help a bit. On the front - you may have to trim the lip off the guards to stop them rubbing. In my opinion you get the best result from guard trimming since it's cheap, it doesn't raise the centre of gravity, and it doesn't require replacing shocks & springs...

Yea body lift is heaps better for keeping the centre of gavitiy low. Shackle lift would be the last mod Id do

cheers fellas, is a bodylift as straight forward as it seems or are there other bits and pieces that need changed too?

Haha Just about straight forward remount the radiator watch the brake lines from the body to the chassis realign the gear levers and the steering coulmn if you are using the factory set up

ok fairly sraight forward then, can i use the body mounts off a wrecked dyna or should i buy new plastic ones

If doing a body lift new plastic. Also be careful when you fill it for the first time and check the steering shafts, Most stuff will stretch far enough.

Remember a body lift will require a cert under the rules and some wof places know this.

Steve_t647 wrote:If doing a body lift new plastic. Also be careful when you fill it for the first time and check the steering shafts, Most stuff will stretch far enough.

Remember a body lift will require a cert under the rules and some wof places know this.

hmm how much wud i be looking at for a cert, do u think a local rural garage would know that??

Depends on the inspector,My Patrol had two wof's by testing station without comment! It will be certed at some stage but only when someone figures out its lifted or when i have finished with the mods.Not that im trying to get around it,just delaying the cost of someone looking at confirming what the Auto Engineer has already viewed.

so if he piks it up then he piks it up and i have to get a cert, that simple huh?
is there any place that sells lifting blocks or will i have to get some made?

found where i can get some blocks made, can anybody tell me how many i will need and what size etc
cheers

Are you still running the standard 40 manual steering?
I dont think there are any slip joints in the 40 steering column?? (Sure ill be corrected if im wrong )
I Was goin to wait till i did my p/steer conv. to do my 50mm body lift.

ah yea still have standard steering setup. so only way to fix that is to replace the steering columb obviously??
thanks for that fakey

I had a look at mine an there is def no adjustment in it so options would be adjustable 60 steering column (maybe..not too sure) or convert to p/steering.. go on you know you want to

haha hell yea do want to, along with bigger donk, roll cage, lokkers, ....... the list goes on. unfortunately the funds dont strectch nearly that far.
any idea roughly how much to do p/steer??

Cost depends largely on how much you can do yourself. There was a guy down your way selling a complete IFS surf setup for about 180, if you went that way youd need an extra set of surf steering shafts an universals to reach the new steering box position by the radiator (I paid $35 incl delivery) then you have to get the colapseable section an standard 40 column resplined to fit together
If you go with the surf box youll need an adapter made ( or i think jafa might sell them) to join the box to your draglink.
As well as that youll need to make a mount on your engine for the pump
The reason Im using the surf bits as an example is that they are the most commonly available an thats what ill be using for my conversion which ill be starting next week after i get my cage finished off so ill post up heaps of pics in my build thread

sounds, ah , involved. would do all the work myself just wouldnt no where to start or what id need. yea thatd be gud keen to know how you get on.