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PTO winch strength, rebuilding etc.
Posted: Thu Nov 26, 2009 6:34 pm
by flyingbrick
Any info on the nissan PTO setup would be much appreciated.
I see its only rated to just over 3ton-
1,what usually fails when exceeding rating? The shear pin/housings/shafts
and 2, what breaks if you use a larger diameter shear pin to raise the pull a little.
3, any ways of making it stronger? reinforced housings etc?
4, Do they have a brake and is it inside the drum? Synthetic is OK? What happens if the shear pin snaps- does the line instantly go slack or does the brake hold things until somehow released?
5, any info on rebuilding?
Chur
Re: PTO winch strength, rebuilding etc.
Posted: Thu Nov 26, 2009 7:39 pm
by coxsy
only the shear pins go if ya lucky ,no the cable doesn't slacken off ,its the same with all pto's , you stuck with the full load on the cable till you unwind the drum i do this with a pair of vise grips to slacken the cable off to get a new pin in , a couble of times could only move the grips with my legs ,
if you over size the pins you can blow the drive case to pieces seen it in photos
grease it well the right oil in the box if in dought pulley block pull
Re: PTO winch strength, rebuilding etc.
Posted: Thu Nov 26, 2009 7:47 pm
by flyingbrick
Wow.
I was hoping the PTO would be a nearly unbreakable super fast
8 ton pull weapon.
Re: PTO winch strength, rebuilding etc.
Posted: Fri Nov 27, 2009 6:21 am
by albundy
I'm the same flyingbrick. You can get clutch packs for them that that will stop the pins breaking. When it ratchets you put a pulley block in.
Al
Re: PTO winch strength, rebuilding etc.
Posted: Fri Nov 27, 2009 10:10 am
by GQTROL
The housings are only cast alloy, so if you use something else in place of the standard shear-pin, it can blow the worm gear out the bottom of the housing. Alternatively, it will pluck teeth off the constant driven gear within the output. They can bust the driveshaft UJ's, but very seldom.
They're a piece of cake to recondition, I've bought and sold 12-15 over the years, sent them to Aussie etc. After a bit of hard work, you can flip the bronze wheel over so it wears on the other side. Can be cleaned up with a small file and emery paper.
Replacement seals and bearings are readily available.
Use Total Carter EP680 or ELF ReductElf SP680 oil. Adding a reservior to the system helps also.
If you learn to read the winch, by observing the way it loads up and how it will normally chatters before blowing the output, it can be a fairly robust and reliable setup.
Re: PTO winch strength, rebuilding etc.
Posted: Fri Nov 27, 2009 10:17 am
by DaveM
There was someone on TM a few years ago offering replacement gears, but haven't seen them for a long time now.
I put a bolt in instead of the shear pins, and stalled the motor while doing 3000rpm trying to winch out of a hole. Put the shearpin back in after that
Re: PTO winch strength, rebuilding etc.
Posted: Fri Nov 27, 2009 11:50 am
by 4WDbits
There are aftermarket stronger gears (only the small ones break) for for in the PTO gearbox take off. These combined with high tensile bolts as shear pins work really well.
The bronze phosphur (or whatever) wheel the worm gears drives on wears out. Once it is worn down a bit it increases the possibility of blowing the whole alloy casing apart, stuffed bearing have the same effect.
I think the bronze wheels are about $500 for new ones and the small steel gears were about $250 a pair.
Re: PTO winch strength, rebuilding etc.
Posted: Fri Nov 27, 2009 12:17 pm
by GQTROL
4WDbits wrote:There are aftermarket stronger gears (only the small ones break) for for in the PTO gearbox take off. These combined with high tensile bolts as shear pins work really well.
The bronze phosphur (or whatever) wheel the worm gears drives on wears out. Once it is worn down a bit it increases the possibility of blowing the whole alloy casing apart, stuffed bearing have the same effect.
I think the bronze wheels are about $500 for new ones and the small steel gears were about $250 a pair.
Are you refering to the guy who made the first gears oval instead of round?
A few years ago Peter Stopforth had a complete set made by the same guy and they destroyed themselves faster than factory ones.
Re: PTO winch strength, rebuilding etc.
Posted: Fri Nov 27, 2009 12:55 pm
by hosehustler
coxsy wrote:only the shear pins go if ya lucky ,
if you over size the pins you can blow the drive case to pieces seen it in photos
Re: PTO winch strength, rebuilding etc.
Posted: Fri Nov 27, 2009 2:46 pm
by flyingbrick
ooooh shit
Good info in here
Re: PTO winch strength, rebuilding etc.
Posted: Fri Nov 27, 2009 5:42 pm
by 4WDbits
GQTROL wrote:4WDbits wrote:There are aftermarket stronger gears (only the small ones break) for for in the PTO gearbox take off. These combined with high tensile bolts as shear pins work really well.
The bronze phosphur (or whatever) wheel the worm gears drives on wears out. Once it is worn down a bit it increases the possibility of blowing the whole alloy casing apart, stuffed bearing have the same effect.
I think the bronze wheels are about $500 for new ones and the small steel gears were about $250 a pair.
Are you refering to the guy who made the first gears oval instead of round?
A few years ago Peter Stopforth had a complete set made by the same guy and they destroyed themselves faster than factory ones.
No, no oval gears. We've been running the gears in the Nissan for several competition, we managed to break one set when we had all the hassles in Rotorua. They run good. We even run the current winch in reverse for our main winch in.
Re: PTO winch strength, rebuilding etc.
Posted: Sat Nov 28, 2009 9:15 am
by Patroler
I agree, some good info on pto's.
But afaik the rating is 15,000lbs (7.5t)...according to my Nissan handbook anyway
