dead saf

PigFmr · Post by **PigFmr** » Sun Dec 20, 2009 10:53 am

was driving along this morning lost all power to the trans gears slipping and the volt meter on the dash went right of the gauge over charging and then the truck died and wont start or do anything,even after i took alternator off,check all fuseble links aswell,also started to melt my battery post's
fark right near xmas and moving in a few weeks aswell,the joys ov having toys

vince

worzel · Post by **worzel** » Sun Dec 20, 2009 11:34 am

shit mate that does not sound good

Post by **SV1K** » Sun Dec 20, 2009 5:45 pm

Had the same thing happen to me last weekend, well kinda. Went to start it and just wound over, then let the key go and tryed to start it and nothing!

Dead, no power to anything... 4 of us tried for 1 hour to work out what it was, the tried to ark from drivers side bat to chassis and nothing, turned out to be a dead neg lead that went to the chassis!

Might be an option to check all the leads...

Cheers
Reece

PR · Post by PR » Sun Dec 20, 2009 7:37 pm

mine did the same about 3months ago it was a broken earth lead :wink:

flyingbrick · Post by **flyingbrick** » Sun Dec 20, 2009 8:33 pm

How could a broken earth lead cause melted battery posts?

coxsy · Post by **coxsy** » Sun Dec 20, 2009 8:39 pm

think amps try to find earth

NJV6 · Post by **NJV6** » Sun Dec 20, 2009 8:40 pm

High current draw due to poor conduction leads to heat and often smoke!

Put a jumper lead from -ve to chassis and see if it fixes it.

Glen

PigFmr · Post by **PigFmr** » Sun Dec 20, 2009 9:58 pm

alternator stuffed,put another one tonight all is good ,and while i was out brought a complete motor and gearbox motor blown a hole in the side but alternator and rest are fine and the gearbox is a manual with pto ,so guess i have another project to do ,manual conversion on the cards and source a pto winch and sell my 24volt asin winch

dont really knw wot i need for conversion apart from the obvious so will be putting a post later on, i know i need some gear to do the conversion but theres always somthing you forget,

vince

PR · Post by PR » Mon Dec 21, 2009 1:45 am

PigFmr wrote:manual conversion on the cards and source a pto winch and sell my 24volt asin winch

dont really knw wot i need for conversion apart from the obvious so will be putting a post later on, i know i need some gear to do the conversion but theres always somthing you forget,

vince

LOL I am just about to do the same thing :roll:

worzel · Post by **worzel** » Mon Dec 21, 2009 6:11 am

good on ya Vince

Mud Hog · Post by **Mud Hog** » Mon Dec 21, 2009 6:22 am

Seem to be a lot of us converting to manuel. I wonder why :lol:

darinz · Post by **darinz** » Mon Dec 21, 2009 3:17 pm

I've just done about 4 weeks ago and the biggest bitch is swapping the pedal box over as you virtually need to remove the dash to get at all the bolts. Other than that you need to rewire the reverse lights and remove the cutout on the starter that is hooked up to the inhibitor switch.
That is about all I think you wouldn't have thought of.

PS Getting the manual in without a proper trans jack is a real bitch as you need to twist it to get it in and then straighten it to bolt it in. Not easy lying on the groung with normal trolley jack!

flyingbrick · Post by **flyingbrick** » Mon Dec 21, 2009 3:50 pm

Or just poke an engine hoist into the cabin with the truck on the ground and dangle a chain/strop through the big hole in the trans tunnel. Lower it down onto the floor and then lift the truck up so you can drag it out.

I'm doing the swap while my body is off too

these autos suck shiet.

PigFmr · Post by **PigFmr** » Mon Dec 21, 2009 4:37 pm

I'm doing the swap while my body is off too

these autos suck shiet.[/quote]

i am happy wiv my auto trans its in good order,its just right time and place,reason for manual for me is a bit more control down long steep banks wiv 35's on it can get a move on but hey might not bother and just sell gearbox wiv pto output shaft,
as i still need get front crown wheel and pinion yet got the rear,to many things to do

worzel · Post by **worzel** » Mon Dec 21, 2009 4:59 pm

go for the manual if you dont let me know
i got to go out for a bit will be home after 8

albundy · Post by **albundy** » Mon Dec 21, 2009 6:35 pm

Ya want to sell the shaft :?:

darinz · Post by **darinz** » Wed Jan 06, 2010 9:34 am

flyingbrick wrote::| these autos suck shiet.

So will you say the same when you clutch has worn out due to age? An auto has a life span and when that is reached it must be rebuilt. Simple, they aren't weak or crap or anything like that, they just have a service life like a clutch in a manual. Sure they cost $2500 to $3000 to rebuilt as opposed to $1000 to $1500 for a GOOD clutch BUT it is the same principle.

Case in point, if a $3000 safari auto can handle what mine does then there is nothing wrong with them at all if serviced correctly.

flyingbrick · Post by **flyingbrick** » Fri Jan 08, 2010 12:32 pm

Darin.
For the average person who wants an average vehicle with average transmission $600 for a new clutch (the average person does not need some HD thing) is fine and beats the crap out of a $3,000 rebuild.

You have to put the cost into perspective. These trucks are getting down into the $5,000 range and many of the beaters here would sell for much less (like mine atm). Spending 80% of the vehicles value on an auto trans overhaul just does not make economic or practical sense especially considering you'd lose most of that money instantly the moment you sell the thing.

darinz · Post by **darinz** » Fri Jan 08, 2010 2:59 pm

Put a $600 clutch into a GQ and offroad and it will fry it in very quick time. Offroad it extremely hard on the drive train. Also a $1500 clutch is comparable to my auto. The comparable auto to a $600 clutch would be those $2000 Trademe ones. (talking retail prices here)

However I hear what you're saying about the cost of rebuilding the auto relative to the cost of a GQ. But that doesn't change the fact that it is an economic decision and has nothing to do with the performance or durabilty of the auto. For offroad driving ability, the auto will beat the manual (if everything else is the same) in almost every situation.

All I'm trying to do is make sure people are aware you are talking about a cost thing and that the auto is better and always will be better offroad. BUT that performance comes at a price. So the price sux, not the auto itself.

flyingbrick · Post by **flyingbrick** » Fri Jan 08, 2010 3:12 pm

Well said Darin

and I agree with you 100%.

Originally I got a bit agitated due to the number of people who told me I should just be fixing MY auto box rather than replacing it. THESE people, i know for a fact, do not have 2-3k sitting around in their back pocket either.

I know the auto is better offroad- have been in a few situations where i've thought FARK glad im not in a manual... but im happy to have the PTO as an option now

and no more funny trans to worry about (untill the clutch blows, hahahah)

PigFmr · Post by **PigFmr** » Fri Jan 08, 2010 5:46 pm

well thought long and hard for many years now and i am guna stick to my auto its good strong box love the control that i have with it,this is the 3rd auto i have ever owned always had manuals.been using a manual lock up now for 2 years and love it,thinkin doing wot you guys have done and making it a manual shift in my auto but aint that great wiv that sort ov stuff really ,nathan you still got all the stuff for this??,any help would be sweet and thanks,
so the 5speed will sit in the garage untill so one wants it on here or i might put it on trade me .....
vince

PigFmr · Post by **PigFmr** » Fri Jan 08, 2010 5:50 pm

and gards and worzel i knw wot u guna say,lol

flyingbrick · Post by **flyingbrick** » Fri Jan 08, 2010 6:54 pm

Pigfmr you can have it all for $50 (to cover the cost of the 4 relays). When the safari shell comes off i'll lop the loom off so you will be able to just match up my wire colors with yours and there will be no issue with the circuit.

Easy.

PigFmr · Post by **PigFmr** » Fri Jan 08, 2010 7:06 pm

swt as thanks,so is it a easy install then??,when areyou taking the cab off ???

vince,,,

flyingbrick · Post by **flyingbrick** » Fri Jan 08, 2010 7:36 pm

yeah you'll just be able to match up the wires color for color and there will be no problems. No other mods needed. Just cut insulation off the factory loom in your car and solder my wires to your wires. This way you can unplug my unit (it has a plug in my loom) and plug in your factory ecu and you are back to auto.

Once you are manual you probably wont go back though :-)

You got a manual fly wheel and old clutch?

PigFmr · Post by **PigFmr** » Fri Jan 08, 2010 7:42 pm

yep complete motor and box,and pto,

vince

worzel · Post by **worzel** » Fri Jan 08, 2010 8:06 pm

o well Vince at least we know where their is a spare box LOL!!!!!!!!

PR · Post by PR » Sat Jan 09, 2010 11:17 am

PigFmr wrote:yep complete motor and box,and pto,

vince

what about just the PTO :?:

if so how much :mrgreen:

PigFmr · Post by **PigFmr** » Sat Jan 09, 2010 4:04 pm

PR wrote:
PigFmr wrote:yep complete motor and box,and pto,

vince

what about just the PTO if so how much

PR you be the 10th person ask me about the pto,you want the everthing, drive off the side of the box?? and shafts,
aint got a clue wot there worth ???

PR · Post by PR » Sat Jan 09, 2010 4:07 pm

I asked A and he recons a complete PTO will go for about $1200 so at the moment I will have to pass cause I dont have that kind of coin if I want to get my truck finished for easter

cheers anyway

dead saf

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