I have a pajero and I am going to mount tow hooks front and rear. I've got the front figured out. But on the rear I cant mount it directly to the bottom of the chassis rails because of the leaf spring shackle mounts. And on either side there is the rear cross member. So I was thinking I can either remove the towball and attach a 3.25 shackle, but This way I'm worried that if a big enough pull is applied it will twist the rear cross member. Or I can get a bracket made up to mount where the towbar bracket currently is so that it pulls level with the cross member rather than from below.
where about in nz are you as i have one sitting here that i got professionaly made it was off my pajero but i have since sold that truck, i will post a pic later. dont want much for it but wont be worth sending it i dont think as it might be a bit heavy.
new2zukes wrote:factory hook off a hilux and the bolts arnt too small for the hook they are perfect fit.
There is the problem right there ... these are not rated and are for "towing only" they break instead of straightening ... or the bolts shear when used for snatching ...then the potential for injury or death is very great
Don't just take my word for it ... do a search on here for all the info
There is no mechanical problem so difficult that it cannot be solved by brute strength and ignorance.
dazza85 wrote:There is the problem right there ... these are not rated and are for "towing only" they break instead of straightening ... or the bolts shear when used for snatching ...then the potential for injury or death is very great
Don't just take my word for it ... do a search on here for all the info
I always thought those factory toyota hooks were strong and didnt break despite that they dont have a load rating stamped on them, the only problem I think can remember reading anywhere is the captive nuts failing on the front of suft chassis?
that is correct i have just read the thread that says that but i have also found some breaking loads which was quite shocking really, you said that rated hooks bend/straighten instead of FACTORY hooks that break off this is from another thread talking about tow hooks.
NJV6 wrote:
Sadam_Husain wrote:Did you find that old thread somewhere, have you got a link to it?
I found this one. What I find interesting is the tow ball snapping at 8 ton, substantially up on some of the rated hooks that also snapped.
I have carried out several hook tests on a test rig. The bighorn hook with 10mm bolts snaps the bolts around 5 tonne Drilled out to take 12mm bolts the hook snaps, nowhere near the drilling, at around 6 tonne The Black Rat Black hook snapped around 5 Tonne The Black Rat Chrome hook straightened around 5 Tonne The Supa Cheap Ridge Rider Black hook snapped around 8 Tonne The Bush Ranger Black hook straightened around 5 Tonne 3/4 shank towball snapped around 8 Tonne The Snatchmaster hooks from Cookes straighten around 9.8 Tonne, this opens a new can of worms as the M12x1.75 bolts broke first. Pintle Hook/Nato Coupling stripped the 10mm mounting bolts ie Patrol, around 12 Tonne Pintle Hook with 12mm 8.8 bolts stalled the test rig around 20 Tonne The Pintle tests were a straight on pull, an angled pull would load 2 bolts more with a leverage factor accross the mount face All these tests were a increaseing load pull, not a snatch which could lower the results.
So where do you stop? The snatchmaster hooks being ideal as they straighten at a high load but the supplied bolts not up to the job. So snatchmaster hooks + 1/2 inch grade 8 bolts, then you'd need a pretty good anchoring point to take 10 ton.
KiwiBacon wrote:How does a badly made hook from china qualify as "rated"?
Interested in your comp program. Bear in mind all the ones even the cheap chinese ones tested did 5 ton which is near enough 10k pounds.
'northland-pajero' (on this site) has just bought my tow hook mount and i have told him about this little discusion and he now he is aware of what has been said he may or maynot replace with rated hook but atleast he is informed.
More often than not the problem with failing hooks is where & how they are attached, the method used for recovering & how hard its stuck. There are as many different theories & ideas between hooks , pintles & hitches etc etc & which is best for certain applications.
To attach the bracket to the car is there are specified torque for the bolts or just do them up tight. And should I be replacing the bolts or will the current ones be fine?
When I bought a bolt on towbar that uses the same mount I found the factory bolts did not go right through the nuts, so I bought some longer high tensile bolts to mount the tow bar, I will use them for the hook bracket too
