Offroad-Express

Hi all, I am looking at getting a Landcruiser But the Automatic model. Any buying advice, this one is cheap. Talking to a guy with a 1986 MWB 13BT with 289000km. Blue smoke at start then clean apparently. A 1991 ZX with the 1HZ (Now Turbo) with 400000km ,well serviced ,quiet ,no smoke but does overheat when pushed on a long hill, never offroad. Factory electric diff locks, hubs and seats This one is expensive. No rust but the cheap one leaks front window.

Any and all advice welcome.

The first one sounds nice if your looking for something cheap the 13BT,s go good.
But this other one sounds exactly the same as my truck and a turbo 1hz is quite quick and if its a good serviced 1hz 400000km on the odo is fine. with the electric lockers it would be great.
Just add a lift and some big muddies and it will be perfect.
It all depends on your needs and wallet

sounds like you need no advice..

"lookin at buyin a cruiser"

nope. you got it right thus far!!

thanks guys
Sounds like the ZX with full electrics is the one then. Any thoughts on the hot running, as mentioned it only happens on long hills under full turbo load. Opening heater rectifies issue but I then overheat. Radiator all good and he has put a trans cooler on. It has been mentioned that it could be a cracked head ?

You'd definately want to look into the possibilities with the overheating issue on that second Cruiser, why mention it if it only happens when pushed towing long distances up hills which is a small percentage of a vehicles driving, it may be a disclaimer that you knew there was a problem if it goes bang straight after you buy it?

Yes, I agree. I'm 90% sure that I'm buying it. Just checking options and thoughts to quell my mind. I nkow they are 19-21 years old, but seem to be the best for real offroad club trips. Have had a jtop (loved it), mu (worn out), jeep tj (current , poor low box, no boot for hilift haha)
Was mainly looking for things to look out for etc, engine issue was a side track.

Cant go wrong with either of them really Hell its a cruiser

redz driver wrote:Cant go wrong with either of them really Hell its a cruiser

Not sure about that. Every second day there seems to be someone else on here with a broken cruiser

chevrolux wrote:

redz driver wrote:Cant go wrong with either of them really Hell its a cruiser

Not sure about that. Every second day there seems to be someone else on here with a broken cruiser

ya dont hear from the others cos they're not worth fixin..

maybe the radiator is clogged so on the uphill bits where it has to soak up the engine and auto heat it cant handle it. Perhaps the viscus fan is poked (does it lock up hard when the engine is hot? - if not it is poked and will be slipping). get a gas check done on the cooling system.

Check the colour and smell of the trans fluid (should be a nice clear red, not brown and smell burned). If it is getting hot it may have cooked the fluid. Has the auto been serviced lately? You mention a trans cooler, is this instead of the std fitment or as well as?

Check the filter in the auto has been changed at least. If the fluid isnt flowing freely through the cooling system there could be a problem with a blockage. Perhaps remove the cooling pipes (engine off) and get them checked for flow / cleaned out.

I'm picking a clogged radiator as you mention the temps drop when you use the "little radiator in the cab". Dont know price to get rodded or replaced but perhaps factor that in when bargaining (hell go for a new alloy unit mad to spec for you ) and while you are at it do all the hoses and maybe the thermostat (could be stuffed).

Do your home work up front (get a mechanic invloved) and if you have a nagging suspiscion all doesnt seem right then walk away. Its hard, but you dont want to be stuck with the bill for a trans/engine soon after buying (and the wife nagging for the next 10 million years about the lemon parked in the drive will drive you insane) .

Get both a leak down check and a compression check done. There are mechanics who do this with a mobile service. Well worth the peace of mind.

Thanks guys, will do as suggested.

IcedJohnno wrote:Get both a leak down check and a compression check done. There are mechanics who do this with a mobile service. Well worth the peace of mind.

Did this and she came up roses, bar a faulty glow plug. So I bought it only to have the gauge indicate RED twice again while test driving it. This is two Diesel mechanics now. So last night I replaced the thermostat and coolant + radiator cap. Still does it. So my question ...

Where does the gauge get its info from ? Is there something else I can fit easily to register temp?

Water pump, if the thermostat is open should I see the water flowing past with cap off ? Cause it is not, but the water level moves up and down with a rev or two.

Thanks guys
Mike

mytronic wrote: So I bought it only to have the gauge indicate RED twice again while test driving it. This is two Diesel mechanics now. So last night I replaced the thermostat and coolant + radiator cap. Still does it. So my question ...

Where does the gauge get its info from ? Is there something else I can fit easily to register temp?

Water pump, if the thermostat is open should I see the water flowing past with cap off ? Cause it is not, but the water level moves up and down with a rev or two.

Thanks guys
Mike

Was the engine hot and/or boiling over when the gauge went up into the red, could be a dodgy sender or wiring, throw an aftermarket temp gague on it and see how that reads in comparison?

Sadam_Husain wrote:

mytronic wrote: So I bought it only to have the gauge indicate RED twice again while test driving it. This is two Diesel mechanics now. So last night I replaced the thermostat and coolant + radiator cap. Still does it. So my question ...

Where does the gauge get its info from ? Is there something else I can fit easily to register temp?

Water pump, if the thermostat is open should I see the water flowing past with cap off ? Cause it is not, but the water level moves up and down with a rev or two.

Thanks guys
Mike

Was the engine hot and/or boiling over when the gauge went up into the red, could be a dodgy sender or wiring, throw an aftermarket temp gague on it and see how that reads in comparison?

I am beginning to think this, but for the life of me I can not find the sender to replace. Engine doesn't seem hot, no steam

mytronic wrote: but for the life of me I can not find the sender to replace. Engine doesn't seem hot, no steam

they are usually located in the hottest part of the engine ie: in the head somewhere or waterneck or something like that?

I second the fitment of a second temp gauge. The toyota ones seem to be more of a history indicator than real time gauge (they tell you once it is too hot rather than showing it climb). Still havent done this to mine but its on the dreaded list (you know the one we all have) along with boost indicator and EGT gauge. Oil pressure is also a good one to fit while you are at it.

Went a bought a manual, it told me where to find it ... NOT
What a waste of money that was
Will fit aftermarket temp and see what gives. Mechanic says she is at 110 degrees at H ....

OK, the low down

Still doing it

leak down test = PASS
New thermostat = DONE
New radiator cap = DONE
New coolant = DONE

What I have noticed,.....

Radiator staying pressurized overnight (Big Time)
When hot overflow bottle gets full and radiator is blowing bubbles in it. Take cap off overflow and yes it is coming from radiator. By the way no water in oil or water at all


So....

How does a radiator get enough air to displace water if it is not coming from head

Can it be the Turbo as it is water cooled

Thoughts ?

My guess is a small leak in the head gasket.

UPDATE

Thanks guys, third leakdown test - FAIL
Cylinder 4

Solved, now being stripped and repaired

Just as an aside and sorry to thread jack a bit. The two previous tests that showed no problems, how is this possible? Is this method a bit hit and miss? Got me worried when it take three goes to find a problem (and three payments), is there recourse available to recover some costs on the previous two tests?

I guess warm engine against cold engine and oil in bore versus dry etc. Individual methodology would vary from mechanic to mechanic.

Is there a prescribed truely acurate method agreed on by all mechanics to get a true picture of the state of compression? Maybe I should ask this in a new thread.

Unhappy ......

Just got it back today

Brand New Head & Gasket
Genuine Viscus Hub & Water Pump
Genuine Thermostat and Radiator Cap
Genuine coolant
Brand New Plastic Radiator

and guess what, still overheats on hills only or pushing it above 110km
remember this has an aftermarket water cooled turbo fitted.
Help, thoughts

Mike

mytronic wrote: this has an aftermarket water cooled turbo fitted.

My guess and only a guess would be the turbo ading a bit of extra heat. Remember the exhaust temp at the turbo could be upwards of 500 deg C, Talk to a good turbo diesel Mech and see what they think but I would be leaning towards a bigger rad or more efficent electric fan in place of the viscus one.

Will do. I did ask about that as they put a brand new radiator in

Cheers Mike