Offroad-Express

hey all,just checked my diffs and transfer case oil level,front all good and clean,transfer i bit low but clean and rear low and starting to show signs of milky stuff,(bloody water), where in christchurch is a good not to high priced place to get oils for these,and what the best way of filling the transfer case,fill hole looks really hard to get to with a funnal.

if you buy you gear oil in a one litre container they often come with a pull out hose in the lid makes it nice and easy to fill with that

Don't know anywhere in CHCH for cheap oil know "SuperCheap" are good on price up here

As for getting it in, go to the tool shops like Blackwoods/Paykels or Tool Zone and get a 0.5L sump vacum pump (around $20 on specail).... this has a long hose for getting into the hard to reach spots and being a vacum pump dosnt' leak so won't spill oil everywhere, good for gearbox's and transfercases as well

Cheers Reece

De-Ranged wrote: 0.5L sump vacum pump

Make sure you spend the money and buy one with decent seals though.... ie, take it to bits in the shop and have a look. Although sometimes its hard to get the spring back in...

beware of those cheap sludge pumps they seen to not seal very well ....

beware of them all... they make a mess and they suck (figuratively, not literally).

I use a pump (water) bottle with the white bit ripped off and a bit of rubber hose about 300mm long tied on to it. Unscrew the lid, fill with oil, screw on the lid, poke hose in hole, squeeze bottle.

Easy, cheap, fast and effective.

Steve

SupraLux wrote:beware of them all... they make a mess and they suck (figuratively, not literally).

I use a pump (water) bottle with the white bit ripped off and a bit of rubber hose about 300mm long tied on to it. Unscrew the lid, fill with oil, screw on the lid, poke hose in hole, squeeze bottle.

Easy, cheap, fast and effective.

Steve

i do the same but with a G force bottle
takes a little while as the hose to fit is quite small but doesnt leak

no no no.....

Get an old engine oil pump ( mines a Supra.. funny that !! ) stick a hose in the output and the drive shaft in an electric drill, pour diff oil in a 5L bucket and watch it go.... Fills the diff in about 30 secs.... no mess

But if you have to do it the messy way fill a 10L bucket with real hot water, toss your diff oil container in for 5 mins then it goes in hot and thin

how what about a 10litre 12/240 volt drysump pump from a jet boat does it for me and prob in ten seconds

SupraSurf wrote:no no no.....

Get an old engine oil pump ( mines a Supra.. funny that !! ) stick a hose in the output and the drive shaft in an electric drill, pour diff oil in a 5L bucket and watch it go.... Fills the diff in about 30 secs.... no mess

But if you have to do it the messy way fill a 10L bucket with real hot water, toss your diff oil container in for 5 mins then it goes in hot and thin

Which goes to show how often you do your diff oils

...its been sitting down at the shed for the last year I think...

SupraLux wrote:Which goes to show how often you do your diff oils

...its been sitting down at the shed for the last year I think...

And you still used a plastic bottle ?

Excellent I thought I'd lost it, when you back at the shed, my front axle is completely apart at the mo so will need to refill soon....

...its sitting on your purple cabinet, right beside your supra block... bring a trailer

Steve

well that gives me ideas on filling i just gotta get some oil now,thanks guys

Have you thought about additives to prolong the life of the oil and the component. Unless its LSD have a think about it and the gearbox. I was surprised by the condition of the oil when changed and the diffs when pulled apart. Don't put any in the transfer case though.
Al

Al, following that thought have you ever wondered why oil companies don't just put those additives in the oil in the first place?

two words... "snake oil"

They do nothing the oil isn't already doing, or in some cases make the oil less effective.

Steve

I have one of those pumps that fit onto any 4L bottle of gear oil. About ten bucks from SuperCheap. I leave the pump on the bottle between jobs to keep it clean. And like Supralux said it alot quicker when the oil is warm/thin. I just leave the oil in the sun or inside a warm engine bay with bonnet down and motor off for about 30mins before pumping.

cool mite look into that,still need to find sum oil,do repco and places like that stock it?

Not sure if you can get that particular pump at Repco. I got my pump and oil from Supercheap. Gear oil is about $30 for 4L.

sweet as thanks jimmy

Yep, Repco sell diff oils too... can get normal or limited slip oils in 4 litre packs for $30-35

Steve

simple idea I found on Pirate... Thanks to Frankenfab over there I kinda pinched his pic cos it tells the story very well.



You could use a bike pump or something similar if you didn't have a compressor

Steve

Hi,
Need to be a little bit carefull how much pressure you put in the container if you are using a compressor and air gun and the cap is securely attached to the container and there is no release for excess pressure, could be very messy, worse still be hit by flying bits of container.

Tim

Al, following that thought have you ever wondered why oil companies don't just put those additives in the oil in the first place?

two words... "snake oil"

They do nothing the oil isn't already doing, or in some cases make the oil less effective.

Perhaps they just know that additives prolong the life of the oil, which means less oil changes, and less money for them
Either way, are all additives bad? I use Moreys oil stabiliser, and often wonder if I should be....

I think each one needs to be taken on its own merits... google them and see what other people think, then make up your own mind.

I just figure if you use a good quality oil and do regular servicings then theres no need to use additives.

I'm sure there are exceptions to the rule, but the reading I have done suggests theres not much point to most of them... I'm sure if they were any good oil companies would produce a more expensive oil with those additives instead of letting other companies take a slice of the pie...

My 2c

Steve

I see your point Steve, but oil companies do make oils with additives in them. I have used them for years in many different applicantions like boat motors, trailbikes and bigbore road bikes, cars and 4wds. I too was very suspect of claims, but decided to try and make my own decisions. I believe engine can run cooler and smoother, prolongs oil life especially what we do to trucks. True there are "snake oils" out there, but there is also some really good shit as well. I reckon it helped my engine to cope with running 3/4 hot for 8 days through the back of lake wakatipu at new year with no complications, just a really good clean out.
Al.

How about a 5 or 10lt garden spray unit.Just remove adjustable nozzle,prime it up,and go.May need to warm up oil as mentioned earlier.You can then mark the level required for both diffs and x/case on the outside of the spay unit.
Cheerz

Does the garden spray unit thing actually work? Sounds like a good idea until maybe the oils attack the seals.

That`s true I guess.Could always go to your local bearing store and mix and match some gruntier seals maybe?

thanks for all your input guys,job done last night,used the good old squeeze bottle and a small funnel,took bloody ages but glad i did it cos rear diff was very creamy looking,next time mite have to figure out quicker way

You missed the point somewhere I think... ditch the funnel... fit a bit of rubber hose to the end of the squeeze bottle and poke the end of the hose in the diff fill hole so when you squeeze the bottle it goes straight in...

Doing the funnel thing is frustrating and demoralising... been there, been frustrated... been demoralised

Steve