Offroad-Express

location of fuel screw so i can increase fuel on my gq,anybody got a pic or able to tell me plz,
thanks vince

Really if you need to ask where it is you should think really hard before adjusting it.

No photo's but it pretty easy to find.
On the back of the pump there is a screw with a 12mm (maybe 13mm? it has been a while) lock nut. It is probably covered with a safety cap to stop people finding it. But sometimes this cap has already been removed.

To adjust it you will need a stubby flat screw driver and 12mm ring spanner, and the fuel lines are probably in the way as well.

Be warned if you wind it in too far and it over fuels you can get the egt to high and melt the motor. (that's just to cover my ass!)

PigFmr wrote:location of fuel screw so i can increase fuel on my gq,anybody got a pic or able to tell me plz,
thanks vince

what Darin said

Ive just had my Safari in for a full injector pump rebuild, talked to the mechanic about "winding up the fuel" as my Saf isn't turbo'ed and was a bit of a slug and needs all the power i could get out of it for towing, he told me the same thing .. dont just wind up the fuel as it will increase your egt to dangerous levels, anyway they rebuilt the pump to factory specs, timed it again to factory specs and cleaned the injectors... honestly the gain in power was simply amazing, no turbo but will pull up a decent hill in forth gear without bogging down now.

thanks sort knew where was anyway, do u really think i wud a wack a turbo without a pyro or boost gauge,thats just asking for trouble turbo fitted goes like cut cat,highest egt was 550 at 150k's wiv manual lock up in, and 120k's on a long hill 500 ,only wound fuel screw from 12 o clock to 4 o'clock,now just got to plumb up intercooler,

Looks like good result pigfarmer
Just to be nosey, what turbo system did you fit and what bost you running.
I will be fitting mine in about 3 weeks when home from sea.
CHEERS

only running 12lb boost,turbo ct26 off a gt4 with a new custom manifold,trouble is its got to come off again as i broke maifold stud bolt today,blowing now real bad ,
vince

Oh that sucks.
I got used Turbo Dynamics/Denco kit with Schwitzer turbo. It also had been running with exhaust leak, thats why not fitted to my truck yet. Have recently planed all manifold faces and turbo exhaust inlet face as this had been damaged from leak. The flange faces have plenty thickness around 12mm, if these are two thin as some types are this can cause distortion snapping studs. Took my manifold outlet studs out to 3/8 BSW, New turbo gasket to source, probably go with one of those scarles ones on tm.
Oh one more question if ok , what EGT guage and how much.
Hope you sort out soon, bloody frustrating aye.
thanks

egt from company in chch smoked gauge $150,hardest thing to find was a socket for the probe to screw into,my manifold bolt that snapped is the last one at the bulk head,trust it to be the hardest one to get at,
vince

I brought my gauge , probe & fittings from here....took about 2 weeks to arrive.

http://www.auberins.com/

Thats where I got mine from, good price and good features too.

Cheers guys
What diameter are probes on these, before I make fitting.
thanks

corosafari wrote:Cheers guys
What diameter are probes on these, before I make fitting.
thanks

Pass (sorry), check their website for details, Google "auberins" and check out all the bling.

The fitting usually comes with the guage.Mine is the weld in type.You weld the base to the exhaust then the sensor is securered to the fitting with a threaded nut that presses against a brass ferrule to make it tight.

water temp probe 1/8 NPT

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_ ... cts_id=134

EGT probes various threads and fittings. "Four mounting options are offered, 1/8" NPT (most common), weld-in, 1/4" BSP, M8x1 and M10x1."

Just order what you want and he does do Visa.

Thanks for above advice.
I have 1/4" fitting to weld in with reduced to 1/8 bsp scew on olive piece. Want to do while onboard as dont have gas set at home you see, cast iron dump pipe will require preheat before welding. This will be about 3mm hole, so can drill or sleeve as required.
Dont worry I wont ask where to drill hole in firewall he he.
thanks again.

The only exhuast manifold gaskets you should use with a turboed TD42 are the factory steel ones. The aftermarket ones will just burn out and it won't make any difference if you plane the head or the manifold.
The best option is to just keep the original ones as they basically don't wear out.
I know of some guys that don't run any gasket at all but that is a pretty extreme case.

PigFmr wrote:only running 12lb boost,turbo ct26 off a gt4 with a new custom manifold,trouble is its got to come off again as i broke maifold stud bolt today,blowing now real bad ,
vince

What are the specs of the CT26? i.e. 6 bolt, twin port waste-gated? ceramic wheel? there are a few issues with them FYI.

Was it rear manifold stud closest to firewall?

Had heard of that darinz, the aftermarket gasket I was talking about is steel shim type at manifold outlet to turbo inlet. However I did buy 6 aftermarket manifold to head gasket, sintered type but not shim. Am a bit dubious about using them , they were only $28 for set compared to $40 each for original, ouch, get what you pay for, when extractors were fitted recently originals were used, hope they clean up ok.
thanks

darinz wrote:The only exhuast manifold gaskets you should use with a turboed TD42 are the factory steel ones. The aftermarket ones will just burn out and it won't make any difference if you plane the head or the manifold.
The best option is to just keep the original ones as they basically don't wear out.
I know of some guys that don't run any gasket at all but that is a pretty extreme case.

Just logged on to Auberin Instruments and ordered EGT display unit, bsp thread sensor and oil press sensor, first for me buying like this, bit old school, so easy, too easy its scary. Bloody good value and should be at home before me. So thanks again and to Heath also, sorry havent worked out double quote reply thing yet, think you posted this link for me previously. The units are compact too . cheers

tallsam66 wrote:I brought my gauge , probe & fittings from here....took about 2 weeks to arrive.

http://www.auberins.com/

darinz wrote:The only exhuast manifold gaskets you should use with a turboed TD42 are the factory steel ones. The aftermarket ones will just burn out and it won't make any difference if you plane the head or the manifold.
The best option is to just keep the original ones as they basically don't wear out.
I know of some guys that don't run any gasket at all but that is a pretty extreme case.

yep replaced all mine with new factory ones,

GQTROL wrote:

PigFmr wrote:only running 12lb boost,turbo ct26 off a gt4 with a new custom manifold,trouble is its got to come off again as i broke maifold stud bolt today,blowing now real bad ,
vince

What are the specs of the CT26? i.e. 6 bolt, twin port waste-gated? ceramic wheel? there are a few issues with them FYI.

Was it rear manifold stud closest to firewall?

yep firewall just my luck,owned 2 gt4'S so yer knw wot they like ran 20lbs boost for 2 years on 1 of them and gave death for 2 yrs and sold it car still going strong but now only running 16lb boost,
spec all you said apart from mine not ceramic they not the best to have,mines the same they run in
some supra''s and some gt4's and they are smaller than ct26 they put in 80series cruisers

PigFmr wrote:yep firewall just my luck,owned 2 gt4'S so yer knw wot they like ran 20lbs boost for 2 years on 1 of them and gave death for 2 yrs and sold it car still going strong but now only running 16lb boost,
spec all you said apart from mine not ceramic they not the best to have,mines the same they run in
some supra''s and some gt4's and they are smaller than ct26 they put in 80series cruisers

Yup, that manifold stud is usually the one to break. I replace all mine whenever the manifold has to come off now.

Atleast you're aware of the pitfalls with them. Initially mine had the ceramic exhaust wheel, unfortunately it broke off the shaft one day. Replaced with a steel wheel and shaft and its been fine since. On the plus side, they do have plenty of scope for upgrade / modifying!

Throw a bigger pump at it and you'll be away!

have you tried put washers in the wastegate to space it out?? to get more boost,its common on the net read about it a few years ago,have you heard of this ??
vince

Haven't tried it and I don't see alot of point since most people are still running standard fuel pumps which can't deliver enough fuel to match the increase in air as it is.

Mine would free-boost to about 16psi with the standard compressor wheel, but after changing it to a T04-E wheel with a 52 trim (that was after first trying 48 trim) it would do 18+ quite happily. 20+ it would start getting surge issues and no percievable gain in HP or Nm. This was all with a bigger fuel pump.

Hey GQTROL just out of interest what size are cylinder head to manifold studs, not able to access my vehicle at present but as you say would be good idea to change.
cheers

GQTROL wrote:

PigFmr wrote:yep firewall just my luck,owned 2 gt4'S so yer knw wot they like ran 20lbs boost for 2 years on 1 of them and gave death for 2 yrs and sold it car still going strong but now only running 16lb boost,
spec all you said apart from mine not ceramic they not the best to have,mines the same they run in
some supra''s and some gt4's and they are smaller than ct26 they put in 80series cruisers

Yup, that manifold stud is usually the one to break. I replace all mine whenever the manifold has to come off now.

Atleast you're aware of the pitfalls with them. Initially mine had the ceramic exhaust wheel, unfortunately it broke off the shaft one day. Replaced with a steel wheel and shaft and its been fine since. On the plus side, they do have plenty of scope for upgrade / modifying!

Throw a bigger pump at it and you'll be away!

corosafari wrote:Hey GQTROL just out of interest what size are cylinder head to manifold studs, not able to access my vehicle at present but as you say would be good idea to change.
cheers

Have no idea sorry Coro. I just buy genuine ones from Ni$$an, they're about $4-5 each. Not cheap obviously when you need 12 of them, but much cheaper than trying to remove a broken one.