Offroad-Express

Looking at getting a manifold and turbo from dsrturbo.com. The turbo I am looking at is the DSR430G2.

Can anyone give some advice on which one to get, there are four choices:

58 internal w/gate
58 external w/gate
63 internal w/gate
63 external w/gate

I appreciate it is not a Garrett but hopefully it will do for me and is within budget.

marmel wrote:Looking at getting a manifold and turbo from dsrturbo.com. The turbo I am looking at is the DSR430G2.

Can anyone give some advice on which one to get, there are four choices:

58 internal w/gate
58 external w/gate
63 internal w/gate
63 external w/gate

I appreciate it is not a Garrett but hopefully it will do for me and is within budget.

IMO you need a w/gate so that cuts it down to 2 options,I would also go with the .58 A/R .I think it would spin the turbine a bit harder down low.I have been looking at them also.

Shane

They all have some form of wastegate, some internal, some external. I have heard bad things about internal wastegates though on cheaper turbos.

marmel wrote:They all have some form of wastegate, some internal, some external. I have heard bad things about internal wastegates though on cheaper turbos.

external W/G is another $350+ bucks,if your happy to spend the extra then the external W/G should/well work better.
i have heard same about some of the cheap turbos internal gate not keeping boost at set level(petrol engines though,not heard of it on diesel)
I would still go internal myself.
you may have answered your own Q:

how much boost would you run??

Only planning on a max of about 10psi, just a bit to help the fat cow up long hills and to overtake the odd Toyota now and then.

Don't bother with external if you are trying to do this cheap. Add WG, then add all the extra exhuast to plumb the waste gate back in and you should have just spent the extra on a better turbo.
If you are only running 10psi (then I'd argue what's the point!) but you are really looking at getting the boost up really quick so go with the smaller housing. You are going to be bypassing the housing pretty quickly with low boost anyway.
Not sure of your costs but you could do a Garrett with internal gate for about $1,500 (normally) or get a second hand T3 and get it rebuilt. There are alsorts of options out there that will give you the same thing that are cheaper than buying a full kit and yet still give you a high quality turbo.

The best Turbo I know that should be used on the TD42 is the Garrett GT2871R with the 86 Internal housing. These Turbos are about $1800.00NZD Each. However for most NZ Truck owners this Turbo is by far to much money to spend on top of the manifold and plumbing etc.

External 38mm Wastegates are available from Trademe/ebay for about $100-$120.00 NZD Each. A Chinese 38mm and a TiAL 38mm will do the exact same thing. So there is no need to fork out $350.00 on a TiAL Gate just for the name ( In which you can't really see anyway!!

With any CN Turbo using an Externally wastegated Gate (38mm external ) is the way to go. Because the Valve in the gate being 38mm can regulate the boost accurately. With many CN Turbos and others there internal flappers ( Like the piston in a gate ) is only about 19mm across. There fore not being able to release/regulate the boost like a 38mm hole can say do.

However the best Option bang for buck is infact the DSR430I58 Turbocharger and manifold Kit. We have sold these now to Samoa, Denmark, France, Malta, USA, Canada, Australia, Tasmania and New Zealand. They are and have been extremely popular manifolds!


http://www.dsrturbo.com

http://www.dsrturbo.com/tb42/td42/nissa ... ifold.html

darinz wrote:Don't bother with external if you are trying to do this cheap. Add WG, then add all the extra exhuast to plumb the waste gate back in and you should have just spent the extra on a better turbo.
If you are only running 10psi (then I'd argue what's the point!) but you are really looking at getting the boost up really quick so go with the smaller housing. You are going to be bypassing the housing pretty quickly with low boost anyway.
Not sure of your costs but you could do a Garrett with internal gate for about $1,500 (normally) or get a second hand T3 and get it rebuilt. There are alsorts of options out there that will give you the same thing that are cheaper than buying a full kit and yet still give you a high quality turbo.

I know, I am the guy in Mataura you just sold the manifold/turbo to.

Mr Cupit

dsrturbo wrote:Mr Cupit

That's me.

I am going to post an install thread when I get all the bits and pieces I need.

COOL! Let me know what the Oil feed thread is coming out of the block when you come time to do it and the lengh of the -4 oil feed line you use. Use the Oil feed bolt that came with the turbo. If you have any difficulty finding fittings call Clinton at http://www.gssperformance.co.nz

So how about sorting out an upgrade kit for a factory turbo TD42? I've been tossing up with doing this to my tow wagon for quite a while but since I have the race truck sitting in the shed it isn't happening. Having a turbo and adapter plate that I could just bolt on and then plumb up would make life easy.

To much money in the costing of the tooling to make the thing. Most trucks in nz ive seen are none turbo so there isnt a market in there for the expensive of the tooling sorry. Factory manifold isnt very good design. nissan must have had a reason for making it this way i just dont know why it was.

I was just reading the post you made in DB thread and didn't want to hijack it so..

The manifold above looks pretty good and would be a pretty economic option. It looks similar in design to a Safari kit and they work very well. (excluding WG, and top mount)
You have made quite a few coments about quality. As most people are aware the issue with stuff from China is quality control rather than ability to manufacture. What are you doing to ensure consistent quality? ie We know there is some really good stuff coming from China but the key to that is really tough (and normal foreign) quality control.
Where are your turbo's being used that they are getting endurance tested? I'd be interested to know if they are being used on Rally cars, circuit cars and any comercial vehicles. Drifter and drag racers may push the limits with HP but the duration of use just isn't comparable enough for what a 4x4 will do and for a lot of guys where it may also be a daily driver.
Most people from outside the 4x4 community don't realise how hard and for how long a 4x4 is pushed when offroad or towing a heavy trailer long distance.

This is a question not a statement. I'm not saying they aren't good enough but rather alot of Chinese stuff is questionable so why is your stuff different?

I am watching this thread with intense interest as a turbo is my last mod to do (insert tui add here).

I just ordered this manifold!!! Can not wait to receive it and make my turbo fit (different flange so will have to drill and tap holes).

Agree with Darin about quality of parts from china- I have had many many boxes of parts sent here from overseas- some parts have been an absolute bargain and some have been so poorly made they are not even capable of being used as intended.

I do not think it is a quality control problem- its more to do with which factory each part comes from. Some of their suppliers make good stuff- some make absolute junk.

A good example is SS Autochrome. They were selling a farking beautiful cnc machined tial bov copy for around $100NZD of which I imported quite a few. Each was as beautiful as the last and they performed flawlessly.

From the same page on their website and for the same price I got a few HKS SSQV bov replicas which were cast horribly to a non existent tolerance using tooling made by people who obviously had no desire to create a working part. Nipples were SUPERGLUED in place, holes were not drilled completely through parts to allow the passage of air.. ETC ETC ETC ETC ETC.

Good parts are always good, bad parts are always bad.... imo.

I have had one of dsr's turbos on my car for two years and I am happy with the endurance and performance for the price . I will be getting one of dsr's turbos for the safari soon unless I find a better option.

Mud Hog wrote:I have had one of dsr's turbos on my car for two years and I am happy with the endurance and performance for the price . I will be getting one of dsr's turbos for the safari soon unless I find a better option.

This is the sort of feedback we need to hear.

Any experience on a 1HDT? Toyotas 4.2 diesel equivalent...

The price for a DSR430 is cheaper then getting my factory turbo rebuilt and making my own manifold....

Does anyone know the oil feed thread size and pitch out of the Block (of the td42 ) to the Turbo?


I think its 1/8" BSPT ( googling it here ) Two small allen screws between passenger engine mount

dsrturbo wrote:Does anyone know the oil feed thread size and pitch out of the Block (of the td42 ) to the Turbo?


I think its 1/8" BSPT ( googling it here ) Two small allen screws between passenger engine mount

According to the aussie patrol site it is 1/8 BSPT. There is a water plug there somewhere too which is 3/8 BSPT.

beautiful manifold which is very nicely cast. A corner on one end requires some grinding to fit past part of the block; not a major but not really expected on a mass produced manifold -Ncosting $560.

Ports and ID of the runners are formed very nicely and certainly look like they should flow very nicely. The turbo flange is probably placed a little too far rearwards than it should have been which makes things a tad awkward in my tight engine bay but its likely not an issue in a safari.

The manifold comes with no gaskets, nuts or other parts and nothing suggested any different. I'd really like to see them come with at least a manifold gasket(s) as these are supplied with virtually all other manifolds these days.

Service from DSRTurbo.com could not have been better and i'd highly recommend them to anyone.



-Nathan

Hi flyingbrick,

Which corner of the manifold needed grinding? Did you fabricate a plate to close off the external wastegate port, or did you find something pre-made?

I used one of these to plug the hole






The front needed grinding on MY engine. Buy the manifold and test fit it to see if it needs grinding on yours. It clashes by less than 5mm and would take like a minute to file the corner down by hand so totally not an issue.

[quote="flyingbrick"]I used one of these to plug the hole






The front needed grinding on MY engine. Buy the manifold and test fit it to see if it needs grinding on yours. It clashes by less than 5mm and would take like a minute to file the corner down by hand so totally not an issue.

what turbo you running?

the turbo is a Steve Murch built td06 with 20g compressor and 8cm exhaust housing. It has a vr4 core, TD06 compressor housing and an aftermarket Trust exhaust housing with new wheels etc.

I've had to make an adaptor to fit it to my manifold as the Trust TD06 housing uses a round port and 3 bolt flange. Not a bad thing as I was able to make the turbo mount to the flange at an angle to give more clearance for the downpipe.

also: blanking plates are like 16$ on trademe.

super nice guys looking very good, anyone know of anything i can do like that for my little 2lt surf?

SURFEE,personally I would use a TDO5 with an adaptor plate.

wouldn't a tdo5 be a bit large?Have got one(tdo5h 16g) on my td42 and it flies!!! . Hold boost right through to 5g so is bout right size.
Any news on these dsr kits? They handling the jandel so to speak?

A TD05 (7cm) is more similar to a stock 2LTE turbo (CT20) than you would think.
In the scheme of things the exhaust housing is a little bigger (bout 1/2 a size up) the exhaust wheel is about the same +/- 1mm on inducer/exducer but where the real benefits are is the compressor wheel is much more suited to running high boost and ultra efficient at lower boost by comparison.

In all reality the differences between a CT20 and a TD05 are about the same as the difference between a TD05 and a DSR430.

I will be proud to get my dyno results on here once my DSR430 is on my 5L-T..