Offroad-Express

Need some advice, my 13bt in my 70 has just about given up on life. (think its got a few broken rings an low oil pressure). So I need to either rebuild or replace it.
I got a price for parts an looking at well over 2k including getting injectors an pump serviced.
Also I may be able to get my grubby mits on a 3b cheaper, that was rebuilt a couple of years ago but then left in storage.

Sooo my question/s are
1. will my 13bt auto box bolt straight onto the 3b?
2 Will my powersteer pump, 24v alternator an starter bolt straight onto the 3b
3. Are the engine mounts the same?

Ill be doing a compression an oil pressure tests soon as I get time.

Ill prob add to this as I think of more questions?

Forgot to add ill be swapping over all the turbo bits to the 3b aswell If I do go with that option

yes every thing bolts on includeing turbo with sorting out the oil lines is down side and u need to swap the water pumps over aswell

Interesting. Why does the pump need to be swapped? Fan clearance?
I was thinking Id put a new pump on cos its been sitting for a while unused aswell as a new rear main seal, (small price to pay to not have to pull it out again cos it leaked )

wide bolt paton on later motors on head of water pump to fix the fan on in the truck

The 13BT would have to be one of the best toyota motors made for off road.

I have never seen a modified turbo'ed 3B come close to the 13BT.

On B motors all the mounts and bellhousing Etc are all the same

Cheers Richard

just buy a dirty ol tree fiddy and chuck her in

If your going to get a 3b make sure you get the rite one because theres two different types the early ones like the 40series had and then the later model ones like the 70series have and there are alot of differences between the two.

I think the main difference between 3B and 3BII is the later one has a rotary injector pump.

My BJ73 had a rotary pump.

A turboed 3B will never be as good as a 13BT as it is an indirect injection head.

http://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/287647-3b-vs-3b-ii.html

I have just taken the turboed 3B motor out of mine cause i broke the crank and fitted a 13BT. The 13BT is a noticeably stronger engine. Given what i know now i would have fitted it years ago. I'd rebuild the 13BT.

had a mate that had a 13BT in his BJ74 at same time I owned mine

he was so happy with his cruiser, that he shelled out over 8k for someone to rebuild it for him

they are a good unit and tow well etc etc etc

skid wrote:just buy a dirty ol tree fiddy and chuck her in

Already got one but the 70 is 24v. Havent done any research into how hard itll be to set it up to run the 12v chev. An if I do that I might aswell put the coils under it aswell

The 3b is out of a 40 i believe. So it would seem itll be different to the 70 3bs?

skid wrote:he was so happy with his cruiser, that he shelled out over 8k for someone to rebuild it for him

8k sounds like a hell of a lot but I heard of a guy in wainui who paid 6.5k to have a 3b rebuilt for his 45 Looking at $1800 for a complete rebuild kit, plus fuel shit

Fakey wrote:

skid wrote:he was so happy with his cruiser, that he shelled out over 8k for someone to rebuild it for him

8k sounds like a hell of a lot but I heard of a guy in wainui who paid 6.5k to have a 3b rebuilt for his 45 Looking at $1800 for a complete rebuild kit, plus fuel shit

silver one with ass hanging down a bit too much

nice paint job


so you know of a good diesel mechanic then

smurf182 wrote:I think the main difference between 3B and 3BII is the later one has a rotary injector pump.

My BJ73 had a rotary pump.

Yes thats one difference but engine mounts are different and arent just a straight swap some of the holes dont line up, theres wiring that needs changed also a few things are in different places.
You are better of fixing the 13bt there a good motor so much better than the 3b, or if you can get ahold of a 14bt there even better, ive got one in my 70 and being a 3.7 turbo it really pulls well.

so you know of a good diesel mechanic then

Nah can you reccomend anyone thinkin the tree fitty could be the go at this stage tho, will know more when I get back to wellington an do the comp test

do the dirty chev, i cant wait for my 1kz to shit itself

wouldnt put the 350 if its your daily. My old lux sent me broke driving it from Auckland to Palmy when i picked it up

Fakey wrote:Need some advice, my 13bt in my 70 has just about given up on life. (think its got a few broken rings an low oil pressure). So I need to either rebuild or replace it.
I got a price for parts an looking at well over 2k including getting injectors an pump serviced.
Also I may be able to get my grubby mits on a 3b cheaper, that was rebuilt a couple of years ago but then left in storage.

Sooo my question/s are
1. will my 13bt auto box bolt straight onto the 3b?
2 Will my powersteer pump, 24v alternator an starter bolt straight onto the 3b
3. Are the engine mounts the same?

Ill be doing a compression an oil pressure tests soon as I get time.

Ill prob add to this as I think of more questions?

Mate 2K is very cheap to do up your motor.
I just had my 3B freshened (new rings hone,new crank,head touched up,etc)
cost me about 3,500 that was with me stripping it down to short block and me doing most of reassembly.
Do up your 13BT I reckon

Well thats 2k just in parts plus injectors an pump. So round 3k at trade rates not including any machining or head work an as it was supposed to be my daily Id rather not spend the money at all
If I did do the 350 Id get a small run about an coil the 70 an forget about the plans for the 45 I wanted to do
Dont really want it to end up like Kimbos BJ74, saw that on the weekend, wow that thing was the most beaten up, well used 4x4 Ive ever seen shows how tough they are tho.

Decisions decisions

ClassicCruiserSpares wrote:

smurf182 wrote:I think the main difference between 3B and 3BII is the later one has a rotary injector pump.

My BJ73 had a rotary pump.

Yes thats one difference but engine mounts are different and arent just a straight swap some of the holes dont line up, theres wiring that needs changed also a few things are in different places.
You are better of fixing the 13bt there a good motor so much better than the 3b, or if you can get ahold of a 14bt there even better, ive got one in my 70 and being a 3.7 turbo it really pulls well.

Im about to swap a 13bt Into my 40 to replace the turbo 3b that came out. The engine mounts are the same to buy as replacement for the 3b and 13bt. The above makes me question if it will bolt in? And locate on the factory chassis mounts, Can anyone confirm this?

[/quote] Im about to swap a 13bt Into my 40 to replace the turbo 3b that came out. The engine mounts are the same to buy as replacement for the 3b and 13bt. The above makes me question if it will bolt in? And locate on the factory chassis mounts, Can anyone confirm this?[/quote]

Yip the 13bt will swap into a bj40 it was some time ago I did my old one and there was a couple of bits that needed swapping around but no major hassle, from memory I had to run a return fuel line back to the tank as the 3b didn't have one. Also the engine I used was a 24v and the 40 was 12v so just used the 40s starter etc and didn't bother about the glow system never had any issues but then this was in Karratha WA and about 50 degrees outside during summer!

I have both 1KZ and a 13B-T in a pair of LJ77/9's.

Your going backwards with a 3B.

Rebuild the 13B-T with these options:
14B-T fuel pump
14B-T timing gear

redo the turbo (Supra Turbo) at a friendly diesel shop (to take 21PSI boost) and the fuel pump.

Fuel economy better than any 1KZ
Torque literally on command awesome to drive overheating issues not really an issue. I have a comp spec diesel engine in my daily driver.

Mine is also now 12v from a 24v conversion.

Simply awesome offroad everything is effortless unless you have a worked 14B-T or 15B-T in it which we also have a few here.

Even my 2008 3.0 D-MAX has a hard time running away from this.

$2K for a rebuild is actually quite cheap our rebuilds here are equivalent with the exchange rates.