Offroad-Express

Hey everyone, I was stoked with the positive response from my last question on these boards, so here comes another.

Got in my truck this morning and the brake pedal dropped straight to the floor when I pushed it down, with little resistance. Opened the bonnet to find that there was nothing in the fluid reservoir.

So I bought a bottle of DOT4 and went about bleeding the system. Process:

1. Topped up res.
2. Opened right front bleeder valve, attached clear plastic hose and pumped brakes until no air came through, on last pump I got my mate to close bleeder valve. We were adding fluid to the res the whole time, this used about 300ml of fluid.
3. Repeated process on the left hand side, using another 300 or so mls.

I thought that would be enough alas, there is no improvement at all. Any ideas as to what I'm missing? Could the master cylinder be rooted? Still some more air hiding somewhere? A leak? Could the rear brakes have something to do with it? Cheers for any help

I would say the fluid must be leaking somewhere ,
I would be checking round the master,then check all the wheels for leaks.

When bleeding brakes always start at the corner furtherest away from the master cylinder, which is the left rear then right rear then left front right front.
Also with the bleed screw open and you push the pedal down air/fluid comes out but if you dont close the bleeder while holding the pedal down each time it will suck air back up your little plastic hose when you lift your foot back off the pedal.

exactly as CCS states above..

to make it easier on yee ole self and not require a mate, ya could get one of those single person bleed kits from repco/supercheap..

like thusly even..
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 948388.htm

have at it good sir.

Yeah start from furthest away and work closer to master.

I found I could bleed one myself if I put the clear tube pointing upward, then pump it, the air will rise out the top and the fluid stays at the bottom when it sucks back in and you have a good chance of doing a good bleed with no kit or mate. Does require a lot of running around checking etc. I was doing it on a Datsun and trying lots of gymnastics to look at bleeder while pumping brake, worked well.

Its lots easier to call on some one else to help. Open the bleeder, push brake down, tighten bleeder, let brake off, repeat, checking your reservoir doesn't run dry or you are back to square one. When the air bubbles stop coming out do a few more pumps to be sure.

the bleedin tube runnin into some fluid in a bottle will prevent suckin air back up tube..

niblik wrote:the bleedin tube runnin into some fluid in a bottle will prevent suckin air back up tube..

As long as the tube is full, other wise it blows and sucks air, but when its full of fluid itself it works a treat, just can be hard to get it full by one's self. Nothing is impossible.

Bleed the master cylinder first as well

Cheers for all the input team, I'm gunna go buy another bottle of DOT4 tonight and have another crack including the rears. Two more questions first...

1. Can I properly bleed the master cyl without ripping it right out? I can't seem to see a bleeder valve on it...
2. Is it really bad to reuse some of the purged brake fluid if it looks quite clean?

Thanks again

dont forget to work out why its leaking fluid, might need to sort that out before you go re-filling and bleeding it every morning?

Sadam_Husain wrote:dont forget to work out why its leaking fluid, might need to sort that out before you go re-filling and bleeding it every morning?

I agree, if it just happened one morning that all of a sudden you got no brakes I would be checking for leaks first up.

Cheers for all the help everyone. Got it all sorted now, Did full bleed and now they're working fine. I had a good look underneath and found that I have got a slight leak in one brake line. Will be fixing that very soon. But for now I've got brakes and a driving vehicle! And don't worry, the position of the leak means it shouldn't suddenly worsen any time soon

BUG wrote:Cheers for all the help everyone. Got it all sorted now, Did full bleed and now they're working fine. I had a good look underneath and found that I have got a slight leak in one brake line. Will be fixing that very soon. But for now I've got brakes and a driving vehicle! And don't worry, the position of the leak means it shouldn't suddenly worsen any time soon

Yep keep driving for a few weeks and it should fix its self.....

BUG wrote: And don't worry, the position of the leak means it shouldn't suddenly worsen any time soon

Just one question, how can a leak, caused from hydraulic pressure not get any worse??

Cheers Daniel