Offroad-Express

Hey all, Want to buy another 4x4 and quite like the GQ/ Y60. SWB.

Tho i cant seem to find a straight answer for running cost for a TD42. Would the turbo be much different in cost from a non turbo?

So pretty much how much do they cost to fill up and whats your average km per tank. and with the RUC whats the cost of them ?
Im guessing they run a 3 ton sticker?

Have yet to drive one, Once i sell my car then ill go have a lookie.

Thanks
Aaron.

I've got a LWB GQ and haven't noticed much difference in fuel use from several diesel terrano's I owned.

I haven't gone down the turbo route yet (about to) so can't comment on economy difference after.

However I did read an article recently about installing a turbo to older diesel engines like the TD42 and one comment was that fuel usgae can actually go down due to the engines being inherently inefficient to start with. Apparently some of the older oil burners can allow up to 30% of the fuel to pass through unburnt. Modern common rail engines don't suffer from this as the fuel is injected under high pressure.

Adding a turbo helps burn some of that 30% of wasted fuel, hence the fuel savings.

On the other hand if you drive it hard around town I think any turbo motor is going to use more fuel that a NA motor.

Had a SWB GQ Non Turbo, found it used about the same amount of fuel as my turbo diesel terrano I have now. Not real economical, The Safaris have a few different sized Fuel Tanks too. If you do alot of k's remember the 4.2 uses about 10litres of oil per oil change,twin Oil filters,twin batteries so can be expensive to keep. Depends what sized tyres you want to run too,Id have one again but a second car to run around in.

juz wrote:Had a SWB GQ Non Turbo, found it used about the same amount of fuel as my turbo diesel terrano I have now. Not real economical, The Safaris have a few different sized Fuel Tanks too. If you do alot of k's remember the 4.2 uses about 10litres of oil per oil change,twin Oil filters,twin batteries so can be expensive to keep. Depends what sized tyres you want to run too,Id have one again but a second car to run around in.

Thanks for the info guys.
Yikes so roughly every 500km if you service them at 5000km it uses a litre of oil, and i thought my alfa romeo was bad :S.

Or do you change them at 10,000?

But of course some 4.2s wouldnt use as much as others?

I think you misunderstood juz there. They don't use 10 litres per 5000km - they take 10 litres for an oil change. Mine doesn't use a drop of oil between changes.

I think for the size of vehicle they are they are pretty cheap to run. Have heard with a turbo they can be better as you don't have to push as hard. I would imagine once you got a turbo you would be fairly heavy footed for the fun factor though

yeh takes 10litres at oil change and 2x Filters. I only change my Diesels at 10,000km intervals.

Feww !! sorry about that i should re read things :p. Gotta say was sorta shocked if that was the case.

Thanks for that, Will probaly do the servicing my self so thats not to bad .

If i could find a decent turbo one id look at it, your right with the fun factor love that turbo spooling noise XD.

I managed to keep mine on the road while sponsored by studylink ($140 a week) so they ain't that bad to run haha.

There is a bit of info on patrol4x4 about turbos making them more economical. Comes down to driving style and boost I think.

The 24V everything can be a bit of a pain and expense at times.

mines about the same to run as my old 3.1D Bighorn

on the open road without hoofing it i get around 10L per 100k's andtowing the Zook around 13-14L per 100k's .. so not too bad for a non turbo'ed 4.2 high roofed LWB Whale

altho my injector pump and injectors where redone less than 5000k's ago

thanks all really appreciate it, Def helps me in deciding now all to do is go test drive one and see if i actualy like it :p

sprey wrote:thanks all really appreciate it, Def helps me in deciding now all to do is go test drive one and see if i actualy like it :p

make sure you can test drive it up to at least 110 kph ... most saf 'deathwobbles" come in at 80-105 kph,

meece4x4 wrote:

sprey wrote:thanks all really appreciate it, Def helps me in deciding now all to do is go test drive one and see if i actualy like it :p

make sure you can test drive it up to at least 110 kph ... most saf 'deathwobbles" come in at 80-105 kph,

Will do, What is this death wobble? Is it common in both lwb and swb? Is it in the steering or something

Will do, What is this death wobble? Is it common in both lwb and swb? Is it in the steering or something

It's a nissan thing. Could be panhard bushes, swivel hubs, tyres out of balance, steering tie rod, relay rod, power steering pump, rubber connector between steering shafts. If it's got it we'll help you isolate it and then tell you how to fix. They are a pretty much bulletproof vehicle, simple to work on and repair.
Al

albundy wrote:

Will do, What is this death wobble? Is it common in both lwb and swb? Is it in the steering or something

It's a nissan thing. Could be panhard bushes, swivel hubs, tyres out of balance, steering tie rod, relay rod, power steering pump, rubber connector between steering shafts. If it's got it we'll help you isolate it and then tell you how to fix. They are a pretty much bulletproof vehicle, simple to work on and repair.
Al

Right thats good to know. Either way once i sell the car ill go have a lookie for one

They aren't cheap to run. If you want cheap to run then get a small car. As an idea with me driving (so same style) my V6 Terrano was cheaper per year than both a SWB GQ TD42 (aftermarket turbo with plenty of boost etc) and a factory LWB TD42t.
They are a big heavy beast so cost to run.
But they are strong, reliable, simple to fix and extremely capable offroad with a few simple mods. I personally have put over 500hp through the drive train with no issues and they can handle a whole lot more.
I've owned 3 and never had the death wobbles apart from when the tyres are full of mud and once when I destroyed the panhard rod bushes during a winch challenge. They are frustrating for those that it happens to but is far less common than you would believe. (those that get it talk a lot trying to solve the problem)

darinz wrote:They aren't cheap to run. If you want cheap to run then get a small car. As an idea with me driving (so same style) my V6 Terrano was cheaper per year than both a SWB GQ TD42 (aftermarket turbo with plenty of boost etc) and a factory LWB TD42t.
They are a big heavy beast so cost to run.
But they are strong, reliable, simple to fix and extremely capable offroad with a few simple mods. I personally have put over 500hp through the drive train with no issues and they can handle a whole lot more.
I've owned 3 and never had the death wobbles apart from when the tyres are full of mud and once when I destroyed the panhard rod bushes during a winch challenge. They are frustrating for those that it happens to but is far less common than you would believe. (those that get it talk a lot trying to solve the problem)

Hmm thats making me think alot then my old isuzu was doing roughly 450 km per tank around town 85L on 95 petrol which at the time was like 145ish to fill up. My car at the mo does around 350km around town for 60 on 95 as well. Wouldnt want to go back to a high fuel cost, In someways it might just be best to keep the car and save up for a zook or something just for off roading. Good to see that the deathwobble itself isnt it all in the trucks and once you track it down sounds fairly straightforward to sort out.

albundy wrote:

Will do, What is this death wobble? Is it common in both lwb and swb? Is it in the steering or something

It's a nissan thing. Could be panhard bushes, swivel hubs, tyres out of balance, steering tie rod, relay rod, power steering pump, rubber connector between steering shafts. If it's got it we'll help you isolate it and then tell you how to fix. They are a pretty much bulletproof vehicle, simple to work on and repair.
Al

Nope, its a solid front axle thing, not a Nissan thing.

Thats one of the reasons IFS is used by other manufacturers.

If you get wheel shimmy, something is worn and needs replacing.

Only the panhard rod bush's or the king pin bearings can cause this condition on.

darinz wrote:They aren't cheap to run. If you want cheap to run then get a small car. As an idea with me driving (so same style) my V6 Terrano was cheaper per year than both a SWB GQ TD42 (aftermarket turbo with plenty of boost etc) and a factory LWB TD42t.
They are a big heavy beast so cost to run.
But they are strong, reliable, simple to fix and extremely capable offroad with a few simple mods. I personally have put over 500hp through the drive train with no issues and they can handle a whole lot more.
I've owned 3 and never had the death wobbles apart from when the tyres are full of mud and once when I destroyed the panhard rod bushes during a winch challenge. They are frustrating for those that it happens to but is far less common than you would believe. (those that get it talk a lot trying to solve the problem)

bollicks about being expensive to run ... depends on how you drive it .. I average 10l per 100k's on the open road.. it's as cheap to run (on a day to day basis, maintanance is a different matter) as my 3.1 D Bighorn ... sounds like yours needs the injectors looked at or lay off the right foot a bit


and as for the wobbles , ive driven about 20 different Safs in the last 8 months when i was looking to purchase the one i have now ... over half of them had a wobble of varying degree, thankfully it's a n easy thing to fix, the hard part is finding exactly which bush is flogged out then all you have to do is just throw a bit of time and cash at it

If you look after your gear it looks after you.
Maintenance and sensible driving make things a lot cheaper to drive regardless of the vehicle.

Patrols are cheap to run day to day, servicing is sweet if you do it yourself. Just don't buy a lemon to start with. I get around 9litres per 100k on road biscuits and ~11 (I think) per 100k on 35in tyres. Measured driving hamilton to taupo only. Big hills kill the mileage as its non-turb and I'm stuck in 3rd gear on steep hills. Its a manual swb.

I'm a full time student and can keep two 4x4s on the road as well as go to uni without a loan

Do keep in mind though you may be able to afford day to day and even servicing costs BUT can you afford to fix something if it breaks?? Can be pricey hence the zuk I'm building

Swamped wrote:If you look after your gear it looks after you.
Maintenance and sensible driving make things a lot cheaper to drive regardless of the vehicle.

Patrols are cheap to run day to day, servicing is sweet if you do it yourself. Just don't buy a lemon to start with. I get around 9litres per 100k on road biscuits and ~11 (I think) per 100k on 35in tyres. Measured driving hamilton to taupo only. Big hills kill the mileage as its non-turb and I'm stuck in 3rd gear on steep hills. Its a manual swb.

I'm a full time student and can keep two 4x4s on the road as well as go to uni without a loan

Do keep in mind though you may be able to afford day to day and even servicing costs BUT can you afford to fix something if it breaks?? Can be pricey hence the zuk I'm building

Yeap i understand ya!. Im pretty big on keeping my vehicles maintained tbh more than the usual fussypants XD.

So far they dont sound to bad to run, Work own a diesel mechanics so thatd prob help.

All to do now, Have a test drive of one then if i like it sell the car and off we go.

Test drive a lifted one with no swaybars!

oh and on Simexs!

juz wrote:Test drive a lifted one with no swaybars!

oh and on Simexs!

Mine drives like new lifted no sway bars but with silverstones. As said if all bushes and bearings are good they drive fine.