Offroad-Express

As per title, the bolts go up, grip, then silp. Threads are quite fine unfortunately, so even a small amount of corrosion has made this happen

Its a D21 navara double cab, the stripped nuts are between 2 layers of floor panel by the looks

Best thing I can think of is to drill up through the floor and buy longer bolts and put a nut on the end (inside cabin)

Any ideas are good ideas ???

can you get to above the captive nuts? If you can find a hole saw (and some rubber bungs to fit it) and cut above the buggered nuts.

Or you could drill the nuts out a smidge and retap another thread into them (larger size of course)

I have had the same on my Prado. I just retaped the hole up one size and got matching bolts.
Sometimes an imperial size is just bigger than a jump to the next metric.
Calvin

Damz wrote:As per title, the bolts go up, grip, then silp. Threads are quite fine unfortunately, so even a small amount of corrosion has made this happen

Its a D21 navara double cab, the stripped nuts are between 2 layers of floor panel by the looks

Best thing I can think of is to drill up through the floor and buy longer bolts and put a nut on the end (inside cabin)

Any ideas are good ideas ???

If it is anything like my Terrano, there are plastic bungs in the floor above the nuts where you can access them. All except for the rear ones, these can be gotten at from behind the bumper, there is a section covering the rear nuts that's held on by 3 bolts.

Heath wrote:can you get to above the captive nuts? If you can find a hole saw (and some rubber bungs to fit it) and cut above the buggered nuts.

Or you could drill the nuts out a smidge and retap another thread into them (larger size of course)

Cant get to the nuts, but I very much like the hole-saw with bungs idea.

I have a tap and die set, but it a $40 trademe special, doesnt tap steel

Pete, I wish navaras had bungs already installed!! Will have to make my own

Cheers guys

Damz wrote:
I have a tap and die set, but it a $40 trademe special, doesnt tap steel

forgive me.. but are you using lube?

The holesaw idea is nice.

You can drill up from the bottom first to get the centre hole through to line up the holesaw.

flyingbrick wrote:

Damz wrote:
I have a tap and die set, but it a $40 trademe special, doesnt tap steel

forgive me.. but are you using lube?

quote]

Didnt know I had to !

Though I used it to try and make a thread in 4mm steel plate and the teeth on the tap fell to bits, really dont believe lube would have helped with this sh!t kit

Bout to have a drill now....

Drilling and re-tapping will be the best provided they are captive. Don't need lube if your careful. 1/4 or 1/3 turn then back it off and go again if its real tough.

You could buy a single tap for the handpiece you should already have too if thats not possible.

I wouldn't drill right through cos if theres a bit of space either side of the nut, when you tighten a bolt right through it could crush the two skins together

that does sound bad.

But yeah you need to use lube on it or it'll never work too well. Also keep backing the tap out half a turn to break up and clear out the swarf.

Even spray CRC works alright if thats all you have. or dip the tap in any oil you have sitting around.

And make sure you are using the right size hole

and buy the bungs before you do the hole-saw if you go that route. Would suck if you cant find the right size bung easily.

flyingbrick wrote::lol: that does sound bad.

But yeah you need to use lube on it or it'll never work too well. Also keep backing the tap out half a turn to break up and clear out the swarf.

Even spray CRC works alright if thats all you have. or dip the tap in any oil you have sitting around.

And make sure you are using the right size hole

and buy the bungs before you do the hole-saw if you go that route. Would suck if you cant find the right size bung easily.

Forgot to mention get the bungs first. Of course then you will have to get the buggered nut out of the hole too which if its welded might be a bastard of a job.

I'd retap it slightly bigger.

By the time you had all replied, I'd cut a hold in the floor

Going to buy some locknuts shortly, luckily the bolts are just long enough to not need replacing

No bung is gonna fit that, might tack it back in place and pull out the silicon..



Also, can someone please confirm that im putting the blocks in the right spot?
Or should they go between the stock spacers?



And in case any other double cab navara drivers are thinking of the same, the very rear body mount has a bung
already, but youll probably need to remove the deck 1st,
I found it easier anyway...

you would be better to have the factory top part against the body-bigger surface area etc etc yada yada

I reckon you have got the lift blocks in the right place as you need the original mounting collar on top of the rubber to limit side movement ... BUT
those lift blocks are FAR to small a diameter. They need to be at least as big as the collar on top of the rubber mount otherwise there is far to much purchase on them and they could start to rip out.

def need to be at least as big as the original. Could go bigger if easier/cheaper and they fitted. You can get big bungs for holes like that too. I got some for the holes i had to cut to get at the bolts.

the other alternative to bungs is thick self adhesive vinyl disks that you can stick over the holes.

Its done from the factory on many cars so why not

I'd use 3" uhumpe for those body mounts. Would offer to make you some but am not working atm.

Just leave it as it is, the new/bigger holes under the carpet still isn't it??

Para Rubber will rip you off for some large bungs if you want them.
I also placed the spacer blocks between the original bushes on my truck.