Offroad-Express

Just refitted my diff after a rebuild due to knackered rear pinion bearing, but it turns out there was another casualty. The bearing at the rear of the transfer case seems to have a fair bit of play in it.
I probably should take it off anyway as there seems to be a leak between the gearbox and transfer case. I'm guessing that there's a couple of seals there that will solve that one, but is the tc bearing something I'll be able to tackle with modest domestic tools and no experience with the inside of a gearbox?

If not can anyone recommend who I should take it to and what sort of money I'm going to lose? Really keen to get this sorted so I can get out in it for a play with the new suspension, 33s and nice tight LSD in the back.

Where are you ?

Oh yeah, north shore Auckland sorry. Keen to do it myself if it's something I can do

Do you mean this? The centre bearing?

My first thought would be that the nut on transfercase flange may be loose.
If it was me i'd pull the driveshaft (remember to put a mark on the flange and universal so you can line them up when replacing)
take the flange off and repace seal in there put back together and make sure the nut is retightened to proper torque.(118 Nm)
The bearings in the transfer are pritty much a specialist job to be tackled with transfer case out.

If only I did! There's a bit of slop on the bush of the driveshaft centre bearing, but I think it's within spec and will probably replace it to be sure. The real problem though is the transfer case bearing. If I wriggle on the shaft as it joins the tc, I get about 1mm each way axial play. I'm not sure I there's a spec for play on that bearing, but I'd hazard a guess that any noticable axial play is categorized as "not cool", since it's supporting the driveshaft, just like the pinion on the diff. I think the centre diff bearing has survived because of it's rubber cushion allowing it to go with the flow as the shaft flailed on the pinion, but it's got my tc bearing instead.

Cheers mylux. Come to think of it I do have a spare transfer case, though I suspect the same condition. Should it be costly to get the bearing done on that? I'll try tightening the nut, but I've never been lucky enough to get more than a couple of weeks out of that trick eg, my diff where I pinched up the slack on the pinion nut. That said, there is not really any axial load on the transfer case other than driveshaft runout if it is a planetary gear setup. My luck it's probably counter gear

Well done mylux! I took the driveshaft off the back of the transfer case last night and pinched up the slack. It only took about 1/16 of a turn, if that, and the play is gone.

HOWEVER - I take it all back. My centre bearing bush is knackered. Didn't look like it with the driveshaft in place, but as soon as I disconnected it from the transfer case and angled it up a bit, I could see it's got a big tear at the bottom. Have ordered a new one and will pick it up tomorrow.

What's the deal with aligning the centre bearing? I see the mounting holes are way over size, so there is obviously a fair bit of adjustment. Is lining it up with the transfer case by eye the way to do it, or is there a trick? I assume it's better to align to the transfer case and ignore the diff end, since it's already going through two universals at that end, but I'd prefer to get it right, and not just go with where the current one is since the gearbox has been replaced and I'm not sure it is right at the moment.

Cool,It feels good when it's an easy fix as opposed to spending truckloads.
The centre bearing should just sit in about the middle of the holes,I have never really worried about lining it up too much so long as the driveshaft looks straight you should be good.
The centre bearings are crapola anyhow and if you cart big loads you'll probally only get 10,000 Ks out of one.

10000! Jeez - before I got a diesel I used to get longer out of my engine oil! Is that the genuine ones you're talking about or aftermarket ones? I just got it for 99 from bnt instead of 220 from Toyota. They reckoned it was a genuine part, but that seems unlikely.

What's the idea of the 2 piece shaft? Just to increase ground clearance in between the front and rear wheels?

Something like that. You could do a single transplant. A bit of work involved and you loose some clearance too (perhaps the shaft will become vulnerable to damage also).

Wont that cause pinion angles to change? could be a drama there, and if you were to do it, i would run a driveshaft loop. Alos 2 peice shafts with a center hanger and less prone to drive line vibrations, assuming you ujs are phased correctly.

Cheers Daniel

Lynx wrote:Wont that cause pinion angles to change? could be a drama there, and if you were to do it, i would run a driveshaft loop. Alos 2 peice shafts with a center hanger and less prone to drive line vibrations, assuming you ujs are phased correctly.

Cheers Daniel

Yeah a bit of fiddling to get it right and to be honest I'm not sure if it would be worth the hassles.

Yea i'm gunna get the single piece shaft priced up.
The work lux has a new centre bearing every 6 months
The early luxies had single piece ones and the only reason I can see for two piece ones is slightly better clearance.

all double cabs and some single cab have a two piece drive shaft as they are loner wheel base then the surf and some single cabs

definately improved, but there's still something not right between 60 and 100kph sometimes. Seems to come and go, but I think it's a stronger vibration at higher speeds, but seems to get in and out of phase with the leaf springs natural frequency at some speeds which makes it worse. I think there is possibly something more sinister at play here, but is it possible that my transmission mount is shot. Isn't torn or anything, but it looks like it's sagged further than it was ever designed to (rubbers are pretty much stretched into an s shape). Is there a measurement for crossmember to box to check it?

If it is the box, am I best going for an R154 when I replace it? I'm getting sick of the 2L, as I use it on road a bit, some longer trips when I go fishing. Was thinking lexus, then 350 since it's a simpler motor - less electronics to get wet, but then I borrowed my mate's 350 powered daimler for a week and was suddenly reminded of the cost savings of running a diesel. That said, part of the motivation for a v8 is to go petrol and save a ton on the regos - commercial vehicle my ass! It's a classic!
So I guess I'm thinking seriously about the 1kz-te: diesel torque curve good for towing the small boat, turbo compensates a lot for the downsides of a diesel, nice grunty engine without worrying about sneezing and blowing a universal etc etc.
Anyone got any opinions on the kz? Know anyone who has done it? I think the R154 was originally behind the kz, so I guess it might make sense to get part way there now, or hold off a few months and do the two in one hit.

Get a 3L and turbo it or get a 5L both good motors with a bit more tit than your average 2L.
Stick to the L series and save bucks with the exchange.
As for the vibration I would be first looking at driveshaft balancing, Someone may have removed the Uni joints etc and not realinged properly

Cheers - looking at them on paper the 3L and 5L look like they don't really offer much more than the 2L - is the power band a lot wider or are they really about the same power and marginally more torque?

Also cheers for the advice with the driveshaft. Not needed to do this before, so where do you take it for that? Is it a gearbox specialist? Also do I take the driveshaft in or is it done on the vehicle?

mylux wrote:Get a 3L and turbo it or get a 5L both good motors with a bit more tit than your average 2L.
Stick to the L series and save bucks with the exchange.
As for the vibration I would be first looking at driveshaft balancing, Someone may have removed the Uni joints etc and not realinged properly

Are the uni's out of phase?

Not on the rear half - the front uni onto the transfer case is about 45deg out, but obviously there's no way of compensating for that. Got a mate to let the clutch out in first a few times to see if I could spot where it's shuddering today. Looks like the transfer case is leaning right over under torque (more than the engine moves on it's mounts). I'm really starting to think the transfer case mount is shot. Will see if I can sneak a peak at a mates mount and see how they compare in squashed-ness.
Given that it's got a fair few kms, is on it's second box, and the diff was knackered for a while, it would make sense for it to fail I guess. Ever heard of the tc case mount going? Or am I barking up the wrong tree?

Just had another thought - as I've said, the tc mount appears sagged. If it is sitting lower than intended then there would naturally be a source of vibration from the uni at the rear of the tc. I will take a look at a mount on another lux tomorrow and see if I'm right. 22 yrs is a long time for a rubber bush, so fingers crossed that's it

check it for cracks around the mount. Put a jack under it and lift the gearbox etc alittle and see if its stuffed.

if it is it's about 70 bucks from memory. A bit of mucking around in an afternoon and its done.