td27t gearbox rebuild

[will i am]

just pulled out my gearbox at work today as bearings are shoot.
anyone rebuilt one of these before?
or any advice would be great

[Damz]

albundy says to fill them normally, and then take the gear lever out. Tip another litre in the top and it should help the bearings running dry. For after the rebuild of course

[kbjj]

I'm watching with interest as I have to do mine aswell.

[Heath]

Picking my prado box needs the same (whining in 5th and dodgy release brg), oh and clutch slipping .
Be interested in what it sets you back to fix up like new...

[will i am]

ok. so far i have done....
pulled transfer case off,
take the bolts around the inbput shaft off and take that input cover off, theres a few circlips behind that.
took the rear section off the box off that has the gear selector atached to it.
take the front section of the box off ( have to us a punch and hit the two bearings out which hold both shafts)
then ur left with the gears and the selctor etc and 1 ring off the box.
all the above took me 2hours.
now comes the hard part
will update as i get on

Picking my prado box needs the same (whining in 5th and dodgy release brg), oh and clutch slipping .
Be interested in what it sets you back to fix up like new...

bearing kit off trade me cost 230
and my labours for free for me.
so prity cheap rebuild for me lol

[Damz]

Cool man, will be an interesting thread!

[Sketchy_Racer]

When you get the gear set out, which will only come out of the second part of the case when you take the gear lever assembly off the first things to check are the front bearing which will will probably be naffed as this is what runs out of lube with the standard oil fill, if it has been like this for a while then the counter shaft gear (the one on the end of the small shaft at the front) which is held on by a circlip and two keys will probably be damaged as when the front bearing fails this takes a shed load of extra force and flogs is out.

Also other points to check is that 5th gear isn't falling off the shaft and that the reverse gear isn't to stuffed.

The gearbox is pretty much the same as the CA18 gearbox, i have a link to a full maual and schematic of it at so will post a link then!

Cheers,

-Sketchy

[will i am]

prity sure all bearings are stuffed.
as when it was in the truck it would wind in every gear apart from 4th.
got all new bearings so mite aswell replace them all.
reverse has a few little marks but nothing major.

[Sketchy_Racer]

Sweet as, yeah 4th is 1/1 ratio so just locks the main shaft up.

The whine could be from the countershaft gear so have a good look at that (thats what turned to shit on mine)

Here's the link to a PDF of the CA18 gearbox, has some good info and helps if you can't remember how it all goes back together!

http://www.240edge.com/manuals/s13_ca18det.pdf

Cheers,

-Sketchy

[will i am]

thanks for the link.

so at lunch today i pulled the selector forks out
(held in by pins you have to punch out)
pulled the rear bearing gears and selector off the counter shaft
NOTE: dont pull the selector by the top as springs and s#!t will fly everywere. managed to fined everything tho.
having abit of trouble getting the bolt off the main shaft.

[Sketchy_Racer]

Hold the centre plate in a vice with some Ally soft jaws, mesh 1st and 3rd gear together to lock the shafts up,

The big nut on the end is a LEFT HAND THREAD, dont ask me how I figured that one out....

Once the locking tab is straightened it should come off pretty easy.

Watch out if any of the syncro rings move to far, the inserts will flick out and are a bitch to find, pay attention to the orientation of them, they are not symmetrical

Cheers,

-Sketchy

[will i am]

so locked up 1st and 3rd gear and turned the mainshaft nut clockwise and its off.
(thanks sketchy racer)
pulled off the gears and sincros off the rear part off the main shaft.
hit the shafts forward and both off them out.
had to put both shafts in the press to get the bearings off and press the new ones on.
hit the bearings out off the centre plate and new ones in.
now just have to put it all back together.
thanks to a gearbox diagram shouldnt be to hard

[will i am]

so finshed rebuilding my gbox about a month ago.
put 80w90 gl5 repco gear oil in the box and transfer case.
now it seems to crunch into 2nd in the morning.
hoping i didnt stuff anything puting it back together.
at least the grinding bearing noise has gone.
am i using the right grade oil?
and the right gl serious.

[Sketchy_Racer]

The Terrano gearboxes don't like some of the GL5 rated oils, they have additives that can wreck the bronze syncro rings. They need either a GL4 rated oil, or a GL5 oil that is noted ok to use with bronze syncros. I ended up using a Titan GL5 oil from BNT that was supposed to be safe on syncros been in for 20,000k now and still working sweet.

[kiwinoz]

I have a '91 Pathfinder, Z24 petrol engine here in Aussie, just at the end of last year i pulled my g/box out to replace the bearings, i got the work done at a g/box shop.
Prior to getting mine rebuilt i looked at options of getting a second hand one, so looked around to see what other cars have the same box. I looked at the ID plates on lots of Navaras, Pathfinder, Terranos with various engines to see what g/boxes they had.
Mine has the FS5W71c but with a different bellhousing to the TD27. Same g/box and bellhousing bolt pattern as in non-turbo RB30 VLs/Skylines. Also bolts right up to a KA24e/de.
V6s have the FS5R30A, bigger, fatter and stronger g/box.
All have the TX10 transfer case.
Both gearboxes like GL4 oil, because the internals do not like the additives in GL5. After my rebuild I used MT90 oil.
There is a service bulletin around for the FS5R30A to say it needs more oil then up to the filler hole, eg tip it in from above, or have the wagon on a slight lean to get more oil in. I have a copy somewhere.
Eventually, I want to fit a TD27T.

[ike]

If you want to do it the cheap (for now) and easy(for now) way and just replace the two that are most likely the most stuffed (the two at the front end of the box) these can be done without taking apart the gearset. Just did mine today, all up about a two hour job for both. (Not including pulling the box etc)

Please note though, I, along with everybody else would recommend you do all of them at the same time so you don't have to do it again later but if you just want to do the two "stuffedest" ones then there is no need to pull all the little clips/nuts/gears/synchros out

[kbjj]

bearing kit off trade me cost 230
and my labours for free for me.
so prity cheap rebuild for me lol

Can you give me your 'bearing kit' supplier details. I cant find him on trade me. Was it a full bearing kit, plus gasket and seal?
Also where's the best place to get a reverse idler gear? Do I have to get genuine?
I have my box in bits and found the counter shaft rear bearing stuffed to the point it had spat the cage out in bits. I'm just wondering how far to go. I think a full bearing kit, strip and clean is the best option due to the contaminated oil.