Offroad-Express

Just looking at some other options, But putting the V6 LWB springs in the SWB V6 will i get a lift? also how much lift as an estimate?

Roughly a 30mm lift. however keep in mind that the front is a strut type suspension so any spring lift will indeed let the front flex even less off road. that can be fixed how ever by doing a strut cap flip, which increases the articulation.

Thanks for reply how do you do a cap flip??
Will i have any camber problems?

http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/Forums/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=22069

have a read of this, its well covered

This is a great site for info about the cap flip. easy to follow and understand.

http://zukiworld.com/forum/build-diarie ... ut-mounts/

badnuz wrote:http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/Forums/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=22069

have a read of this, its well covered

Ill make a real effort to update that link tonight to get it up to date, have done quite a bit more since then!

Thanks for all your help, currently trying to do the suspension lift.
Im also sometimes hearing a knocking come from back left you think my bushes have gone? may have to replace those same time i do this lift.
I was looking at the cap flip but still having issues understanding as theres no pics anywhere... can anyone help me understand it? also is it safe and able to get a WOF like this??

RUGARD wrote:Thanks for all your help, currently trying to do the suspension lift.
Im also sometimes hearing a knocking come from back left you think my bushes have gone? may have to replace those same time i do this lift.
I was looking at the cap flip but still having issues understanding as theres no pics anywhere... can anyone help me understand it? also is it safe and able to get a WOF like this??

I had a knocking the in the back from mine, turns out my A-arm suspension side bushes were ROOTED.

Easiest way to understand the cap flip is to take the strut out the front, remove the strut mount from the to and have a look. It will become very obvious quickly.

Good luck . . .
Hein

Oh i see now, yeah just putting back together now, im putting some washers as packers in mine.. less surface area after the cap flip as the lip is the only mating surface.. did you notice a diff when you did yours Hein?

RUGARD wrote:Oh i see now, yeah just putting back together now, im putting some washers as packers in mine.. less surface area after the cap flip as the lip is the only mating surface.. did you notice a diff when you did yours Hein?

Yip, used some washers in mine too. No difference when just driving on-road, because the struts just compress a bit further to have the car sitting as high as it did before, but off-road every bit of down travel you can get out of the front will help keep your wheels in contact with the ground. Keeping the wheels on the ground is what it's all about.

kernels wrote:

RUGARD wrote:Oh i see now, yeah just putting back together now, im putting some washers as packers in mine.. less surface area after the cap flip as the lip is the only mating surface.. did you notice a diff when you did yours Hein?

Yip, used some washers in mine too. No difference when just driving on-road, because the struts just compress a bit further to have the car sitting as high as it did before, but off-road every bit of down travel you can get out of the front will help keep your wheels in contact with the ground. Keeping the wheels on the ground is what it's all about.

Just finished the cap flip, im just a little worried about the strength of the cap now its flipped, has anyone ever noticed cracking or breakage around the shoulder, maybe im bein a big girl and worrying too much, do you think its an issue? How long have yours been flipped kernal? im guessing your rough with your vit looking at ur pics haha i havnt seen any post of this being a problem.... How do you get on with WOF? are you still running standard shocks?

Hi Rugard,

Yeah, no problem getting wofs (Seriously, what wof guy is going to pick this up ?) and still running the standard front shocks.

The strength of the cap should be exactly the same as before you flipped it, as long as you use 8.8 bolts to secure it where you pressed out the studs. You have not modified the cap in ANY way, have never heard of anyone having trouble with theirs.

What's next on your mod list ?

kernels wrote:Hi Rugard,

Yeah, no problem getting wofs (Seriously, what wof guy is going to pick this up ?) and still running the standard front shocks.

The strength of the cap should be exactly the same as before you flipped it, as long as you use 8.8 bolts to secure it where you pressed out the studs. You have not modified the cap in ANY way, have never heard of anyone having trouble with theirs.

What's next on your mod list ?

Yeah mate used 8.8 bolts,
well in the past week ive done 3 lots, full tuned exhaust, whom i must thank a good friend at chase mufflers for helping with on the tripple flow, and pitstop rotorua, the guys are awesome, they welcome all 4x4 guys and will look after you!
Ive done the tyres which are 30"s and the suspension lift.

Mmmm maybe waterproof the engine bay and add a snorkel, some bash plating, reverse floodlight as the standard zook ones are crap especially with 5% tinted rears, did it for the Labradors haha. i must post some pics!

Yeah, I need to look at fabricating some bash plates, at the very least for the fuel tank before I hit any serious stuff.

Youve got a cap flip aye?

kernels wrote:Yeah, I need to look at fabricating some bash plates, at the very least for the fuel tank before I hit any serious stuff.

If you do make some can you make me some too? I need it badly as I am replacing my tank soon and dont want to screw this one too. Mine is however a SWB. So I dont know...

Ill play with some ideas and come show you when I've got something welded up mate. Will be pretty budget, but I reckon it doesn't have to be pretty, just do the business!

Hey dude I really dont care if its not pretty at all. My whole truck is poor looking but does the business. Function over form as I should say more often

lincooln wrote:Hey dude I really dont care if its not pretty at all. My whole truck is poor looking but does the business. Function over form as I should say more often

Haha well said !

Hey guys, found two options for rear shocks, i can go 55mm longer shocks max, as then the rear lift springs wobble round, i can get the shocks to suit a lowered VL commy 50mm longer or some that suit a prado rear which are 55mm longer, but may be a hard ride. They both compress almost to suzuki shock specs.. what you guys think?

Also when i was under the truck today noticed a spring thing on the heim a-frame its spring loaded, does anyone know what it is?

@nd thing what fuel are people running in their zooks, mine says premium unleaded only, but ive been running 91 and its a V6 thaughts??

That thing connected to the spring is the brake proportioning valve, it changes how much brake pressure goes to your rear brakes depending on how loaded your rear is. I run mine on 95, ran it for a bit on 91, think it does actually run better on 95.

Mines a 2.5L and I've always put 91 in it to try and keep the fuel bill down. Tried 95 once when I first got the car but was probably too green to notice the difference but will try it again. I get 13.5l/100km around town which is crap for a 1450kg car but it not too bad for a 4x4 by the looks of it.

I use 95 in my 1600. that is because it has done nearly 300km so 91 just makes it knock and so on. 95 is good, and 98 is just a tiny bit better, but not worth the difference in cost.

kernels wrote:That thing connected to the spring is the brake proportioning valve, it changes how much brake pressure goes to your rear brakes depending on how loaded your rear is. I run mine on 95, ran it for a bit on 91, think it does actually run better on 95.

Oh okay and the spacer on the a frame isnt going to bother it?

churchill wrote:Mines a 2.5L and I've always put 91 in it to try and keep the fuel bill down. Tried 95 once when I first got the car but was probably too green to notice the difference but will try it again. I get 13.5l/100km around town which is crap for a 1450kg car but it not too bad for a 4x4 by the looks of it.

13.5L 100km!! You lucky bugger!! im sure mines around 9.2km litre around town! its crap i almost watch it move haha.
Im going to start using 95 again, must be better all round, and i worked out the cost diff between a tank of 91 and 95 is only about 3 odd bucks.

RUGARD wrote:

kernels wrote:That thing connected to the spring is the brake proportioning valve, it changes how much brake pressure goes to your rear brakes depending on how loaded your rear is. I run mine on 95, ran it for a bit on 91, think it does actually run better on 95.

Oh okay and the spacer on the a frame isnt going to bother it?

The spacer actually corrects it, you change how it works by doing the suspension lift!

Ohhhh i seeeeee, click!! haha