Offroad-Express

Hi

Looking at modifying the back of our Safari and trying to find different ideas.

I like the idea of the following 2 trucks and wonder if any modifcations need to be made to the bar (i.e. for strengthening) or just bolt it on??





Also thinking of using the same 4 bolt holes as a mounting point (like the pajero ones) for our tow bar. Will it be strong enough for this?

the bar I made attaches to the chassis were the two original bolts went through. It then attaches to the middle of the chassis cross member where the four small bolts are. I made up a hayman reecve type set up where I could take the tow hook out and replace with a tow ball for towing. The towball and hook are held in by an 18mm pin. It mounts in the middle of the bar. No pics sorry, someone may have one of my truck showuing it that they could post up.
Al

Hey mate,

I ran that rear hook on a 1990 Mitsubishi Pajero for about 12 months then over the past couple of years on 3x Safari's and had no issues with bending anything. I just updated all the bolts every 12months.

Cheers
Ray

have you thought about bolting a pintle hook there so you can have the best of both worlds, towing and snatching.

from what I've seen nobody has issues with them strength wise and I've seen some solid pulls off them

mine may not be a safari, but the set up can't be that different in the rear....................

skid wrote:have you thought about bolting a pintle hook there so you can have the best of both worlds, towing and snatching.

from what I've seen nobody has issues with them strength wise and I've seen some solid pulls off them

So are you pulling off the tow ball part??

I've got a pintle on my rear bar, used them on 2 Safari's now and never had any issues. Just took my front/rear bars off for repainting and cleaning & replacing of HT bolts if they needed doing.

I stripped one bolt undoing it so drilled and retapped the thread to suit a 14mm HT bolt.

My truck is in the top pic. I bent the cross member (very weak). So I made a 10mm Channel bar that bolts to chassis, very heavy but won't bend.

Als Rear Bar.


I got local engineer to make me up one those rear hook mounts like whats on trademe but cost me $80 instead of $130 or whatever they are now. I was going to use one of those Pintles like skids but Club wouldnt allow it. Will get one for my Cruiser now though.

F*ck I remember that one mate, nearly popped her on her side at 50k's/hr. Funny as hell. Couldn't you have found a better pic.
Al

SirGerald wrote:

skid wrote:have you thought about bolting a pintle hook there so you can have the best of both worlds, towing and snatching.

from what I've seen nobody has issues with them strength wise and I've seen some solid pulls off them

So are you pulling off the tow ball part??

yup, they are rated for snatching etc

cruiser is 2500kg and has snatched equally as heavy vehicles

its first ever test was 2 vehicles stropped together, so it works fine.

I put a hook in the centre for awhile bent that area outwards pulling a disco out of a bog, moved the hooks to the chassis after that, its thin steel with captured nuts holding the towing loop on, no one uses it long term

no one uses it long term

Unless its like mine it is bolted back to the chassis rail as well. Been pulling trucks out, some quite voilently with no bent chassis cross member.
AL

Hi Al
I have just seen your pic showing the rear bar and noticed your fuel tank up high. I am in the processes of modifying my fuel tank and just wondered how you did it.

skid wrote:

SirGerald wrote:

skid wrote:have you thought about bolting a pintle hook there so you can have the best of both worlds, towing and snatching.

from what I've seen nobody has issues with them strength wise and I've seen some solid pulls off them

So are you pulling off the tow ball part??

yup, they are rated for snatching etc

cruiser is 2500kg and has snatched equally as heavy vehicles

its first ever test was 2 vehicles stropped together, so it works fine.

Combination pintles like that use a ball rated for both pulling at the lower curve and at the top. The rating isn't a breaking load like regular recovery points, they are rated at safe working load, often around 16,000lbs at the curve and 10,000lbs at the top.
Never use a tow ball for a recovery is popular advice, but you need to remember why its popular advice, then you'll understand why the combination pintle is safe for recoveries.

It's also bashed up mate as well.