Offroad-Express

this show a spacer and a bush for manual hubs , swamped was on the right track

So to fit force nissan hubs does the bush and spacer need to be purchased as the auto shitters don't have that in them I don't think. The force set doesn't come with any either do they??

the manual says there is a spacer and a bush i haven,t run one and have had no problems with wear,
but thanks for mentioning it other wise i would have never thought to look,
but there was no spacer or bushs fitted to my brothers hubs

Guys I have bought a set of the nissan original nissan manual hubs and they don;t come with spacers and on mine it does need them. i find under load the hubs slip. When i pulled apart and measured things up the clutch part on the spline has too much play without the spacer and when you set the hubs they are omly just catching and locking so under load they can slip. I'm going to get spacers made up to space out the clutch part. Needs to be about 5mm deep max and should solve the problem. Mickey mouse though.

Be good if someone could lay the two parts beside each other to see the differences. the force and the old faithful ones.

I wrote a thread on this.

The force hubs must be different to the nissan hubs or something.

They do NOT need this spacer and fit straight in. I mentioned in an earlier post that you need to fit the factory washer from the auto hubs... this is incorrect and caused mine to buzz a little as clearances were TOO TIGHT.

Doug. Pull off your old hubs and put the force ones in. Its easy and shows without doubt that there is no room for any kinda spacer.

http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/Forums/ ... 98#p258498

Yeah I blew an auto so have to fit em now. How did you test yours?? You got a patrol thats driveable now??

I fitted and tested mine first and also did some quick measuring. With the washer behind the new manual internals the teeth buzzed gently together when spinning the wheel. Removing the washer let the internals move away from the outer parts and fixed this.

I then installed a set on a mates truck and his are working without problem.

Little point discussing it as you'll see when you pull your autos off. There is only one way to install the pieces and trying to put the manual parts in from the above diagram simply wouldn't work.

Not sure why people mention extra C clip grooves as being needed and im sure mine did not have any others.

If anyone has any conflicting experience and can get pics It'd be cool to compare. only takes a few mins to whip the hub off and I can grab some pics.

As far as I knew you just had to move the circlip from the inner to the outer on the spline and that was it but people say different shit regarding fitment aye.

Cheers for the help though.

Guys I've got problems with mine but I went from an aftermarket set of manual hubs which i broke to a set of original replica Nissan manuals. Prob was the nissan ones did not come with the spacer but they do need it as they slip under load. Not sure on the change from auto to manual ones though. I measured it up and found that when locked in at worst case (the inner clutch part slid fully in on the splined hub) the teeth only just mesh, and with a little grease and under load they slip. A spacer behind that inner clutch part between the hub face and the clutch of I reckon about 4mm max would be enough to ensure they are are positioned out far enough all the time so when you lock the outer in the teeth mesh enough to eliminate slippage but still disengage properly.

Hombrey wrote:Guys I've got problems with mine but I went from an aftermarket set of manual hubs which i broke to a set of original replica Nissan manuals. Prob was the nissan ones did not come with the spacer but they do need it as they slip under load. Not sure on the change from auto to manual ones though. I measured it up and found that when locked in at worst case (the inner clutch part slid fully in on the splined hub) the teeth only just mesh, and with a little grease and under load they slip. A spacer behind that inner clutch part between the hub face and the clutch of I reckon about 4mm max would be enough to ensure they are are positioned out far enough all the time so when you lock the outer in the teeth mesh enough to eliminate slippage but still disengage properly.

Was your truck factory manual hub or auto hub?

Not sure. Had aftermarket manual hubs when I got it and is an 89 jap import.

4wdbits axle part has this neat chamfer cut in the back to avoid the screws

Mine has this threaded tube that sticks out from the hub so that piece won't hit the screws. I left the factory washer behind that piece you have pictured (it sits inside that shoulder) otherwise it has quite a bit of slop on the shaft. Theres still a tiny bit which is fine.

These things have been the bane of my life recently. I had one side rattling and the other normal. so I stripped em and looked at the internals. The one side isn't disengaging correctly. So I swap the internals leaving the external hub assembly on the original side and the rattling changes sides. I think the cast piece's are different sizes which is real helpful.

The other thing is that thin ring of tube thats pressed into the hub is now stuck in my wheel assembly and every time you remove the hub the insides fall out of it
%#$&!!!!!!!!

well the bane of me is the rear locker making noises so it come out, lsd back in tomorrow
oh that thing, yer a pain in the ass, one design fault of these hubs

crazy doug!

You got a vernier?

You should pop over sometime so we can take some measurements and do some comparisons.

-Nathan

I've got a spare coming down already so will see if that works. Will need to vernier though. Def related to that center component though. I could just shave a fraction off of it perhaps but I'll needa measure to see.