Hey guys, found that my front crankshaft seal is leaking on my Gq Patrol TD42 , just wondering how much it has cost anyone to fix this? is it a pull the motor out job?
Prior Preperation Prevents Piss Poor Performance. My Solution: Build a Tougher Truck
Rear crank seal is an engine out job but a front one is usually an engine in place job, pull the pully/harmonic ballancer off, waterpump and accerories and timing cover, replace seal and stick it all back together
do it in place dude, seal would be about 20 buks ish?. pull the radiator out, pull the front pully and replace the front seal, pop it all back together. this is a guess tho as ive never done one on a saf but should be close to corrrect D.B will know, hes good with those patrol's
If you already know everything, DON'T ask bloody questions!!
LOLYF wrote:Theres some guys down Tauranga way that'll do it for $8000
bahahahaaa...thats gonna be a catch phrase i can see it!
92 saf,
Easiest seal to do. When it comes to the crank pulley, be prepared to take starter out to lock crank so you can get the nut off. A 1HDT engine has a torque of 500NM = FT= farkin tight.
Cheers,
I keep looking for the loose nut behind the wheel, but I can't find it!!
LOLYF wrote:Theres some guys down Tauranga way that'll do it for $8000
bahahahaaa...thats gonna be a catch phrase i can see it!
92 saf,
Easiest seal to do. When it comes to the crank pulley, be prepared to take starter out to lock crank so you can get the nut off. A 1HDT engine has a torque of 500NM = FT= farkin tight.
Cheers,
since when did the safari have a toyota motor in it??
If you already know everything, DON'T ask bloody questions!!
ohh and you can undo that bolt with a good power bar and socket wedged on the chassis rail and a flick of the key
or if your not keen on that, put it in 4th gear chock the wheels and hand brake on hard and just undo it with that power bar and socket. tighten it the same way but with tourque wrench to correct tourque
If you already know everything, DON'T ask bloody questions!!
wopass wrote:ohh and you can undo that bolt with a good power bar and socket wedged on the chassis rail and a flick of the key
or if your not keen on that, put it in 4th gear chock the wheels and hand brake on hard and just undo it with that power bar and socket. tighten it the same way but with torque wrench to correct torque
So true Can you tell I work on boat motors Don't have that luxury
I keep looking for the loose nut behind the wheel, but I can't find it!!
wopass wrote:ohh and you can undo that bolt with a good power bar and socket wedged on the chassis rail and a flick of the key
or if your not keen on that, put it in 4th gear chock the wheels and hand brake on hard and just undo it with that power bar and socket. tighten it the same way but with tourque wrench to correct tourque
Just make sure you rest the power bar against the correct chassis rail or they fly around a bit!!!!!!
Nissan Terrano coilovers, turboed VH45, Safari axles, and some other stuff.
wopass wrote:ohh and you can undo that bolt with a good power bar and socket wedged on the chassis rail and a flick of the key
or if your not keen on that, put it in 4th gear chock the wheels and hand brake on hard and just undo it with that power bar and socket. tighten it the same way but with tourque wrench to correct tourque
Just make sure you rest the power bar against the correct chassis rail or they fly around a bit!!!!!!
hahha yea true that!
If you already know everything, DON'T ask bloody questions!!