Offroad-Express

hi there, my 1kz surf is having a few issues with getting hot, mainly when i go along the motorway at resonable rev's not excessive and then if i give it a bit of stick to go up a hill it gets a lil hot on the temp gauge also if im giving it death to get up some soft sand etc, any tips on keeping them cooler? ive changed the coolant, ive seen alot of people mention removing the egr valve, is this in relation or not really?

thanks

Get the radiator flushed out.
Possibly replace water pump.
Open up the exhaust....2.5 inch and dump pipe.
Get rid of EGR valve.(remove and blank it off)

Clean out intake manifold, bound to be full of gunk.

I got mine hot in the sand once... Few months later it cracked a head. They don't like the heat so watch the gauge.
Better still install a Pyro gauge in the exhaust and drive to your EGT temp.
Do a search on the forum and you will find enough info.

Have fun
Calvin

If its auto dont use over drive on the hills also let it rev abit ...they overheat if laboured.
When 4wding ..use low range as much as possible...lets the engine run much easier & keeps engine & trans temp down.
Radiator & aircon fins might be blocked with mud etc... take out radiator & hose themn both out .
Internally the radiator might be getting rodded... you could get it rodded to clean it.... a flushing wont clean it as well as a rodding.
Viscous fan might be faulty ..they can be dismantled & refilled.
Thermostat could be faulty.... or you can replace it with a late model prado 71 degree one.... opensat alowertemp..helping to keep cooler ( only available as genuine toyota part ( 90916-03121)
Ive not disconnected my EGR yet..but have heard it can reduce temperatures.

This subject must have been covered at least a dozen times, at the worst you will have a cracked head and you will have to top up the coolant after each hard run and if you run motor with radiator cap off you will notice bubbles in the top of the radiator and for your sake I hope it's not OUR ORE BUBBLES ., cost of repair $2000 -----$3500. At the best a radiator out and a professional check and clean and may be new core $200 -----$500, what ever way have it checked out or it will get worse.

THERE IS ONLY ONE THING I LIKE HOT-----AND IT'S NOT A VEHICLE,

FITZY.
PS ----- I keep forgetting , I'm to bloody old .

have a read of this

http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/forum/viewforum.php?f=7

Awsum cheers guys very helpful, I've ordered a new radiator, hoses, thermostat. So I'll chuck all that in and go from there. With this egt gauge are they readily available? I've checked my viscous fan unit that's still mint, I've got brand new coolant in it which I'll reuse in the new radiator. And I'll stop using overdrive haha :p

Oh and sorry forgot to mention never uses water or bubbles with cap off

Best & certainly cheapest guages from the states... this is what ive got at home to be installed when i can.I wasnt able to find anywhere in NZ cheaper.

EGT Probe
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5&products_id=131

Guage

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5&products_id=19

When i ordered mine took about 2 weeks to arrive.

Oh I see that's awsum, so what kind of temps do you say are high like when do you start backing off to let it cool? Might get one aye cuz the stock gauges are crap lol.

Ive not installed my EGT yet.
There is a mod you can do to make your temp guage much more sensitive.
Also on my to do list lol

http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/techsite/tempgauge.htm

That's quite a cool mod aye wouldn't mind trying that .

Modded my factory guage a while ago know , much more sensitive to change in temp and no flat spot .

But you can't beat a after market temp guage that actually tells what the temp is instead of a just a line on a guage

tallsam66 wrote:Best & certainly cheapest guages from the states... this is what ive got at home to be installed when i can.I wasnt able to find anywhere in NZ cheaper.

EGT Probe
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5&products_id=131

Guage

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5&products_id=19

When i ordered mine took about 2 weeks to arrive.

Thats what I have (water temp and EGT - space left for one more guage later on ).

Search Kbushnz's thread on EGT guage or look up my prado thread for pics.

Just an update guys I got my radiator taken apart and flushed out, the guy said it was over 50% blocked thru the core haha so nice core, new tanks and along with new hoses and thermostat we should be good to roll. I'll update when it's running . Anyone know any good places in Auckland to purchase heater hose etc? I've got all the radiator hoses but I'm going to do all my hoses they all bit sh*# lol.

Wonder if exhaust wrap will help deduce intake temps? According to the manufacturer of the Racepro stuff

"Wrapping the exhaust system maintains hotter exhaust gases, decreasing the density, and allowing the exhaust gas to exit the system faster! Greater exhaust scavenging is produced, thus lowering intake temperatures that means more horsepower"

But a higher exhaust temp would stuff the EGT readings tho would it?

I don't know just thinking out load could be all bollocks

Hi Guys

Just joined up having tried nearly everything on my KZN130 auto to keep it cool. Heaps of relevant info, loving it.

Major flushing, modified temp guage, new manual radiator, 76 degree Prado thermostat, trans cooled thru DaviesCraig cooler only, nothing worked.

Read every post on Aussie site multiple times, finally decided i wasnt fixing it in front of the 'puter and went in the shed and pulled everything off the front of the engine.

What did i find?? The Jap made aftermarket replacement water-pump impeller half didnt match the original Toyota T1 rear half. Clearance between impeller blades and 'cover' was a good 8mm. It would be near impossible for this pump combo to have generated any pressure and therefore moved any water. Replacement Toyota 'T3' complete pump assembly has less than 2mm clearance.

Temperature now much more stable, who would have thought it needed the water actually pumping around the engine????? Doh!!!!

Dont get caught, there is no way to see the impeller clearance if you do a lazy/half pump replacement. Whole thing or nothing (means cambelt, backing plate, rocker cover and sprocket and alternator bracket have to come off) so expect more time taken or charged, but at least you will know where you are at.

If this helps just one 1KZ owner then i'm happy.

Cheers, Adam

Great tech.
I am due to do the water pump in mine .
Why did you have to replace the water pump houseing with a T3 unit?
Is the standard T1 water pump no longer availible therefore requiring a change in housing?
Do you have any Toyota part numbers for reference and an indicative price of parts .

Also you may want to consider that when a friend on mine removed the in radiator Transmission cooler and soley ran and aftermarket cooler setup, he cooked his auo transmission. Apparently the stock radiator cooler is very efficient and most after market setups struggle to keep the transmission cool enough.

Good to see i'm not the only nightworker in NZ!

I was semi-forced into the trans/engine split originally. Radiator guy couldnt get auto rad' easily, so i just manned up. I already had the other cooler inline, so just changed the hoses around. Have never had the A/T hot light up since, and i just use the old fingerometer on the cooler to check how hot it gets (my job involves lots of 'heat assessment'), never more than 80 or 90 degrees i reckon. Im really not worried about the trans to be fair, it had a powerflush and fluid change as part of all this, and is due for another one in 40k, or earlier if the fluid looks a bit suss.

T3 housing is just Toyota's latest version, listed as supercesion for Prado's etc that use 1KZ variants, will get p/n off i/v and post tomorrow night for you. Retail was only $120 + tax, so no dearer than aftermarket Jap made pumps (BNT had an AISIN full pump for $150 odd, 8 blade rather than 6, i just prefer OE if cost effective. They also had front only Quinton Hazell, but wasn't interested in going that way!!).

Cheers, Adam

UBZ

P/n for latest Toyota pump that I used is 16100-69356, hope this helps.

Cheers, Adam

Gidday guys, well got the truck all back together and wow she's great now no heating problems what so ever ! Thanks for all the help you guys gave me it's been great, I'm going to get egt gauge in the near future too . Now time to get some springs and raise it!

Well went out to the bombing range on sunday, came on at the creek and ran about 40km up the beach with o/d off and was prolly sitting at 2500-2800rpm it ran sweet pretty much the whole way but got a lil hot after a hard kain during the drive down ryt at the end of beach I think it was just due to the fact it was running such high rpm for such a long period and then being kained, as after that during all the dune running etc it was perfect. Could the run up the beach heat it up? It seems to b the only place it does it ......? After doing the coolant I ran it up to temp to bleed the system until the thermostat opened just wondering if there is any other issues or just the fact it's not intercooled and ran 40km along soft sand with boost on it's just normal to get lil toasty It cooled down almost instantly when I came to stop. It doesn't overheat at all on the road even along motorway now and giving it a bit to see if it would get hot lol .

soft sand will work any motor to the max .A sustained run will get most engines temp up from normal

Sweet that's good to know. I'm new to the 4wd scene I love it can't get enough but just making sure I do things right haha. I've read a few Aussie forums too n they all say the same thing the surfs like to creep a bit hot (stupid cooling) and I've got a nice new water temp gauge I'll chuck in and that way I'll b quicker at catching any higher temps it's got an adjustable warning beep if I go above a Certain temp. And next time I'm going to just take my time going up the beach it'll still b there when I get back.

I allways try ad keep the revs at 2500-2600rpm in the heavy sand.
Experience has taught me that the temp will start climbing once the rev's raise out of that optimum range.

Sweet that's good to learn these things every lil tip I'm taking on board

You def need to fit a good aftermarket coolant temp gauge.
If the shit factory gauge is moving at all its far to hot.
I had issues and it ended up being stuffed viscous fan. Replaced fluid and now when under load fan starts to "roar".
The hottest I have had mine since fitting the aftermarket VDO gauge was nearly 105 degrees and the factury gauge never moved.
That was towing an old caravan up hill into a north-west wind on a 30 degree day before christmas
Mine normally sits between 82 and 88 degrees. Have a genuine 82 degree thermostat

On first start of the day your fan should roar a bit for a few secounds. Give engine a wee rev and you will hear what I mean

Evo'2 you mentioned you hit 105 degrees c, i saw that peak on my cheap Calibre digital display (taps into 'boss' on water outlet neck) Wednesday going up the Brynderwyns towing around 1500kg (30 deg ambient, aircon off, drive no o/d).

Frankly it gave me the shites having just done the waterpump and everything else (see my earlier post this thread), still recovers really quickly though to 80-86.

How hot is too hot?????? 105 isn't boiling with 13lb/.9 bar pressing on it, but its getting up there aint it!!! The thermal shock from 100+ then 80 odd cant be doing the head stud tension much good either.

Starting to run out of ideas, anyone tried 'water wetter' etal in these things?

Adam

OK, I don't know why I am bothering because you won't listen .FIT AN EGT PYROMETER BEFORE THE TURBO AND DRIVE BY IT . If you have your boot down you are making HEAT, If you are towing you are making more HEAT and if you are towing up hill YOU ARE AT MELTING POINT, no Ifs or Butt's. I guarantee that towing a load up hill with your boot even 3/4 up it you will have a reading of 800+C, EGT on your pyro gauge, I have had a pyro on my last two vehicles 2LTE & 1KZTE and have towed a 15ft caravan all round the S/Is; with no trouble. An EGT pyro fitted will change your style of driving a Diesel and will save you $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$.

LISTEN TO THE WISE OLD MECHANIC,

FITZY.

Fitzy,

Cheers for that.

I admit i have been tunnel visioned on repairing/improving the efficiency of the cooling system on my Surf, but along the way i have found a partly blocked radiator, non-standard design thermostat, iffy water pump combination. Each time i have thought "Eureka, that'll fix the POS" and each time i have been left a bit disappointed.

I am definately listening to you and others about the validity of EGT monitoring, I bought the vehicle to tow and tow it shall, but i want to do everything possible to try and keep it cool through efficient heat exchange before i resign myself to eternally babying it everywhere. I certainly never had to do be gentle with either my Courier 2.5TD or its replacement Ranger 3.0CRDi, but the company wouldnt let me keep them when i resigned!!!! How unfair. I chose a Toyota to spend my own money on because of their perceived conservative approach to engineering, but i must admit i am running out of faith in that perception.

If the head has to come off, so will the manifolds and rest assured the exhaust manifold will be receiving a drill and tap!

Edit::: Spewing, just remembered exhaust manifold was off couple of years ago when i first bought the truck to do an exhaust manifold gasket, mechanic welded up the EGR holes and removed pipe for me, but if only i had known about EGT then i could have called in and drilled and tapped and plugged for use later, DOH.

Cheers, Adam

Hi Adam, I know where you are coming from re- the company vehicle, My good friend has his own company and of course a company vehicle----'s, he has had several Toyota's and currently a Nissan 4wd twin cab, they have all been new vehicles and all put to work , for recreation he uses them to tow a 24ft caravan or a 22ft cabin cruiser all round the South Island and he doesn't button off, when I ask him about the EGT his reply is the dealers said it would be OK so OK it is, mind you these vehicles get replaced at 150 odd K's not like our old girls that start at 200+k. Getting back to your vehicle I would recommend removal of manifolds at least and may be the head because they will be full of gunk and carbon that won't be helping the heat build up. I have often thought I would like to have the balls to hold my Jandal right up it one day with the caravan behind the Prado to see how high the EGT would get but then I think of the $$$$$$ and time .

NO BODY SAID IT WOULD BE EASY,

FITZY