Offroad-Express

curious to know what leaf pack setup guys are running on their r.u.f conv
i know theres acres of info on ruf but nothing realy specifically talks about different leaf packs and what works best
The rears im using are 6 pack but im removing the 2 overloads..
so ill end up with a pack of 4 leafs
will this be fine? not too soft??
ill be running a 3.8 comy weather that effects weight load etc??
recommendations?
pulling them apart now to give them a clean and paint

J

its a bit of trial and error, what is the leaf pack like to start with? its nice to start with an oldish saggy set that will flex well as the aftermarket rears will be to hard for the front unless u remove most of the leafs. Depending how far you are moving the axle forward you may also have to mod your sump as the commy ones seem to get in the way and will fowel on your diff housing.

It is amazing how low you can get away with running the truck with big tyres when the azle is in the right place. Cracks me up seeing people with GIANT lifts to fit medium-big rubber when all they needed to do was push axle forward.

rangimotors wrote:its a bit of trial and error, what is the leaf pack like to start with? its nice to start with an oldish saggy set that will flex well as the aftermarket rears will be to hard for the front unless u remove most of the leafs. Depending how far you are moving the axle forward you may also have to mod your sump as the commy ones seem to get in the way and will fowel on your diff housing.

It is amazing how low you can get away with running the truck with big tyres when the azle is in the right place. Cracks me up seeing people with GIANT lifts to fit medium-big rubber when all they needed to do was push axle forward.

yea ill definatly be modding the sump.
was just curious at what packs others have done and i dont want to go to high at all, lower the beter.
for now ive got a 4 leaf pack, see how that goes i guess

just fitted my rears to the front, axle not in though as ive pulled that out to give it a sproose up..

Compared the rears to the fronts and the locating pin is 100mm more forward on the rears...

Yet generally most say this mod moves the axle 30mm forward??
Does the 100mm difference get reduced as weight goes on and the shackle moves back or what????

bump

J_Dub wrote:just fitted my rears to the front, axle not in though as ive pulled that out to give it a sproose up..

Compared the rears to the fronts and the locating pin is 100mm more forward on the rears...

Yet generally most say this mod moves the axle 30mm forward??
Does the 100mm difference get reduced as weight goes on and the shackle moves back or what????

maybe a little bit but i reckon rears in the front push it alot more than 30mm forward. You can get about 25-30 just from redrilling the factory fronts and i think rears push it a lot more than that.

is yours r.u.f?

Were you measuring from the from or the rear of the spring? From what I understand they are a little longer and the extra length is taken up at the rear of the springs with longer shackles so the distance further forward towards the front of the springs is the more representative of how far froward it goes. does that make sense? Ie the front mounts don't move?

ahh yep i think i understand, might give that a measure up..
So because the front is fixed, measure from there back rather than from shackle end forward.....

Been a long time since I played with these but as I recall the locating pin on the rears is not ctr, so try turning them around as well. You mix and match the pack with springs that were originally in the front pack as well.
What sort of rears are you doing? Aftermarket (shudder) or falcon springs?

rokhound wrote:Been a long time since I played with these but as I recall the locating pin on the rears is not ctr, so try turning them around as well. You mix and match the pack with springs that were originally in the front pack as well.
What sort of rears are you doing? Aftermarket (shudder) or falcon springs?

So ive had a re-measure and its more like 60mm forward..
What do you mean by the rears not being centre?
Not alot I can do untill with adjusting the packs to suit untill I have the motor bolted in, because obviously the finished weight needs to be correct first..

The rears for now im leaving and will adjust to suit the front height wise, but will play around with packs and remove overloads. Im thinking of 3" lifted springs, and removing half the leafs to bring it down an inch or so and to make it more pliable.
I still want this to be fairly tight on the road if poss, thinking coons would make it rolly.. and with the locker in the rear and toolbox and spare wheel and fuel tank over the rear axle should make it more flexy.. hopefully

while im on this topic, out of curiosity would there be a recommended order I do these next few mods as they kinder work together, with weight etc and clearances..

High-steer
engine conv

Should i get the engine bolted in so I have full finished weight on the front, then get the front springs sitting at the height I want, then with that done do the high-steer..

Or can I do the high steer then get engine in, then play with spring setup..

My only concern is could I come across issues with the high-steer setup if I do that before I finalise the height...

You can adjust rolling with sway bars, the best way to make your leaf spring flex is to remove the pressure it takes to twist them sideways. Think about grabing one end and then twisting the other end in the oppisite direction. The longer they are, the easier it is to do this, this is just as important as the amount of springs in the pack. I have never seen an after market lifted spring perform any where near as good as you can get by using a longer spring pack.

Still it's your money.

i ran a four pack of rears in the front of my 410, worked good until i ran into a ditch and bent the barstards with my poo extended shackels,