Offroad-Express

Hi all
Have done the search thing and all it done is confuse me a bit
What i'm after is what is the max safe egt for a td42?
temps taken pre turbo.
Some people are saying 600post turbo and some 600 pre turbo.
I know to expect temp drop on post side so which is the right one(temp) so to speak.
Know i should be playing it safe but when i'm hauling arse up a big hill passing a big b-train i want to know when i really need to back off and when its still all good.
Thanks in advance
Mike

mine runs pre turbo and at 28psi is just under 600.I wouldnt want to be going over 600

pre turbo 750-800 max.

but don't forget other factors come into play, especially if turboing an atmo TD42.

Ideally you should be around 450C but for short bursts you can go up to 700C

It doesn't matter what vehicle you are talking about because the fact is that iron glows red hot around 700C but takes a little while to reach that temperature.

Around 750 to 800C pistons can distort and alot will start to melt down around 850C so it is not a good idea to even maintain 600C for an extended time

Another thing to be aware of is that if you are at 700C at the top of a hill it pays to drive down the other side in a lower gear to stop a sudden drop in temperature. To go from 700 down to 50C very quickly is what cracks heads as they shrink too quick

Cheers Richard

try telling that to car manufactures

650-700 pre turbo max(short burst)
under 600 if holding it there for good lenght of time(towing etc)
I have to work it pretty hard to get 550-600,I do run abit of boost which helps to keep temp down.(TD42 DSR turbo set up with good 3" exhast)

Shane

Cheers guys answers my question
Yeh know all about cooling to fast as well.
Had a blizzard with 2lt.got hot shut it down blew head.
Put another in 2lt in it. Got it hot numerous times kept drivin(quietly). let temps come down slowly and it all good. Did 35thou ks b4 sold it and guy got another 20 b4 he hydrod it.
So just one more question
How far into gas flow should i put the sensor? 5mm,10mm?
Spent alot of time and coin on setin truc up and don't wanna melt a piston

The more probe you have in th better it will work. I had mine almost touching the other side of the manifold. (tube manifold so about 40mm.
Also if you can, get the manifold heat wrapped / coated to keep the heat in and do the same to the exhuast. Does 2 things, keeps the gases hot and flowing fast and also keep under bonnet temps down.
As a gas cools it shrinks so looses speed and it is that gas speed you want to turn the turbo.

IMO unless you are racing and prepared to damage a motor I'd keep it under 600* as it allows you a margin of error. At 700* a TD42 has a life span measured in minutes!!!!!! (and not very many)

The other thing to keep in mind is the higher EGT's happen at lower revs unless you are running a hybrid fuel pump. With a NA TD42 with aftermarket turbo, no pump mods (no annroid) then if it is manual you'll see peak temps before turbo gets to boost. This is when it will be over fueling. Auto isn't an issue as torque convertor slip allows the truck to get to boost quicker. The classis time for this would be hauling up a hill in a hugher gear with under 2000 revs.

Sweet. thank you that the kinda info i was after.
Currently have a manual swb but am looking at an auto lwb(family need it).Will put turbo across.Am hoping it'll handle it.
Am just running a j pipe setup made from steam pipe and its heat wrapped.
Am in prosses of changing to a tdo5h off a 95 wrx.
am hoping it'll boost up nice and quick.
I habitualy change down b4 big hills so hope this'll help avoid high egts.
Again thanks. knew i'd get the right answers on here

I ran 20psi, I/C etc through a Safari auto. And that same basic auto was in my other truck and that had turboed VH45 with over 500hp.
The auto is plenty strong enough but you must do a few things. They have a limited life before overhaul needed. About 300k is it. You need to service it with good fluid. Fit an aftermarket cooler that completely bypasses the factory one (inside radiator) as this blocks with the particles that wear off the torque converter. I'd also suggest you get a shift kit fitted as this will mean it changes gear faster with less flaring.

Or just my my 96 GQ, factory turbo, auto (with everything above done to it) 2" lift etc. Yours for the special price of $14k.