Poo brown workshop wagon

[williamhamilton]

I picked up a new project which will be converted into the workshop truck in due course.





We have some interesting (hopefully) plans for it but to start with - get it running, get the brakes working (it was a hairy drive back - and that was two skin heads talking!). Get it to a WoFable standard and get into driving it (and get it ready to enter the Kiwi4x4 Challenge).

The SAD SAD news is that to pay for this I need to be selling my Blue FJ40 - for the people who help in day one and day two of the working bees - I owe many an extra beer so some funds will be contributing to that.

I will add to TradeMe once I have a final (and thorough) clean of it - and a few more drives.... but if anyone is in the market for a lovely V8 FJ40 and is mean enough to take it away from a proud owner (b&^%stards) then make a good offer

The deck has been ripped from the tray and now has a naked rear end! Pics to come if Mie does not think I am posting pron in here..

more to come


W

[stinky]

Sorry the hear about the cruiser give ya $50 and half a mince pie for it

[SP450andLE]

I saw that one on TM. Looks a good buy.

It's a shame a new project means out with the old, eh?

[williamhamilton]

Sorry the hear about the cruiser give ya $50 and half a mince pie for it

Who has eaten the other half? If you mmm thanks but NO!!

I saw that one on TM. Looks a good buy.

It's a shame a new project means out with the old, eh?

It is a shame for sure, but I am hardly getting to drive it and when I do it is on the road to and from work.

It is in good nick and is great fun - should last a good number more yeas with the POR and other coatings it has on it My next step was a body respray - replaced metal for metal with a couple more bits I want to grind back and check. May still paint before listing it, see how my spare time goes.

W

[williamhamilton]

Couple of update pics. Skid payed a visit and was almost in tears when he saw the arse end cut off Wait till he visits next week to check on progress




Sorry Skid

W

[Nivapulledout]

Nice work. I love starting new projects

Keep up the pics and posts.

[basics]

i love flat decks, ill be watching this thread for sure.

[williamhamilton]

Quiet afternoon so a few updates - steel!



rear end has been slimmed down in line with the body. Bash plates being added for when Chris puts it on its side. Rear being sorted to pull Nissans out of the mud.

I will add pics as I find the missing ones and take a few more.

W

[turoa]

Bash plates being added for when Chris puts it on its side.

Dont you mean nstacey?

[williamhamilton]

Roll cage discussion - As this is a temp Kiwiw4x4Challenge truck before it becomes the work wagon I do not want to go too overboard on metal but looking at roll protection options.

My suggestion was (keeping in mind I will not be driving it!!) couple of hoops - one in front of windscreen and other rear of cab.. tied together with tube between. Two tubes coming off the rear hoop down to chassis.

Chris has not quite defined his option but sounds so far like LOTS of steel

Any other suggestions? tube specs etc?

Mid mount winch - Been doing some reading and I like this idea. Found a few resources - PTO with air ram sounds pretty trick but probably simple lecy one. ANy other 40/45 folk on here with a mid mount setup?

W

[darinz]

You can do your cage that way but the prefered method is a main hoop behind the seats (within 150mm of drivers head) and then have a hoop that starts by the occupants feet, enclosed the door and meets with the main hoop. From this point the back stays angle down to the chassis. You then joint the 2 door hoops up with a bar running across the top of the windscreen. You need to have at least one diagonal in the main hoop but I'd suggest a cross. You also should have a diagonal in the roof but again I'd suggest a cross or a 'V' (depending on head clearance.
There are more thins to consider like mounting to chassis or body and then there is tube type.
The tube type will depend upon what you plan to do. most winch challenge trucks build to ORANZ spec and so alot are using MSNZ rollcage tube (38.1mm x 2.6mm medium tensile welded tube) but this doesn't comform with NZFWDA specs. To build to that you have to use medium wall steam pipe of varying sizes depending upon the length of the tube and the weight of the vehicle.
I'd suggest a little more research before you buy tube or start cutting things to suit.
Lastly, everytime you bend a tube you weaken it so the less bends in the cage the better. Don't put bends into the back stays!!!! Remeber triangles are your friend.

PS the cage in my new truck has so far taken 55m of tube and will end up with around 65 once complete! However this does tie the suspension mounts into the cage.

[haynzy]

You can do your cage that way but the prefered method is a main hoop behind the seats (within 150mm of drivers head) and then have a hoop that starts by the occupants feet, enclosed the door and meets with the main hoop. From this point the back stays angle down to the chassis. You then joint the 2 door hoops up with a bar running across the top of the windscreen. You need to have at least one diagonal in the main hoop but I'd suggest a cross. You also should have a diagonal in the roof but again I'd suggest a cross or a 'V' (depending on head clearance.
There are more thins to consider like mounting to chassis or body and then there is tube type.
The tube type will depend upon what you plan to do. most winch challenge trucks build to ORANZ spec and so alot are using MSNZ rollcage tube (38.1mm x 2.6mm medium tensile welded tube) but this doesn't comform with NZFWDA specs. To build to that you have to use medium wall steam pipe of varying sizes depending upon the length of the tube and the weight of the vehicle.
I'd suggest a little more research before you buy tube or start cutting things to suit.
Lastly, everytime you bend a tube you weaken it so the less bends in the cage the better. Don't put bends into the back stays!!!! Remeber triangles are your friend.

PS the cage in my new truck has so far taken 55m of tube and will end up with around 65 once complete! However this does tie the suspension mounts into the cage.

this is for a workshop runner

[williamhamilton]

You can do your cage that way but the prefered method is a main hoop behind the seats (within 150mm of drivers head) and then have a hoop that starts by the occupants feet, enclosed the door and meets with the main hoop. From this point the back stays angle down to the chassis. You then joint the 2 door hoops up with a bar running across the top of the windscreen. You need to have at least one diagonal in the main hoop but I'd suggest a cross. You also should have a diagonal in the roof but again I'd suggest a cross or a 'V' (depending on head clearance.
There are more thins to consider like mounting to chassis or body and then there is tube type.
The tube type will depend upon what you plan to do. most winch challenge trucks build to ORANZ spec and so alot are using MSNZ rollcage tube (38.1mm x 2.6mm medium tensile welded tube) but this doesn't comform with NZFWDA specs. To build to that you have to use medium wall steam pipe of varying sizes depending upon the length of the tube and the weight of the vehicle.
I'd suggest a little more research before you buy tube or start cutting things to suit.
Lastly, everytime you bend a tube you weaken it so the less bends in the cage the better. Don't put bends into the back stays!!!! Remeber triangles are your friend.

PS the cage in my new truck has so far taken 55m of tube and will end up with around 65 once complete! However this does tie the suspension mounts into the cage.

this is for a workshop runner

Rough roads out here in the Wairarapa

We are looking to enter the Kiwi4x4 Challenge this year with it then covert to workshop runner (few plans to do on it). One of the mechanics has not done a lot of 4x4 and this seems like a good way to get him thinking. We do a fair bit of 4x4 work here so he needs to get with the programme (has to have been scared at least a few times offroad to appreciate) lol

Taz01 you like to volunteer to take him for a scare drive sometime?

W

[flyingbrick]

You can do your cage that way but the prefered method is a main hoop behind the seats (within 150mm of drivers head) and then have a hoop that starts by the occupants feet, enclosed the door and meets with the main hoop. From this point the back stays angle down to the chassis. You then joint the 2 door hoops up with a bar running across the top of the windscreen. You need to have at least one diagonal in the main hoop but I'd suggest a cross. You also should have a diagonal in the roof but again I'd suggest a cross or a 'V' (depending on head clearance.
There are more thins to consider like mounting to chassis or body and then there is tube type.
The tube type will depend upon what you plan to do. most winch challenge trucks build to ORANZ spec and so alot are using MSNZ rollcage tube (38.1mm x 2.6mm medium tensile welded tube) but this doesn't comform with NZFWDA specs. To build to that you have to use medium wall steam pipe of varying sizes depending upon the length of the tube and the weight of the vehicle.
I'd suggest a little more research before you buy tube or start cutting things to suit.
Lastly, everytime you bend a tube you weaken it so the less bends in the cage the better. Don't put bends into the back stays!!!! Remeber triangles are your friend.

PS the cage in my new truck has so far taken 55m of tube and will end up with around 65 once complete! However this does tie the suspension mounts into the cage.

Iv been spending some time trolling Pirate and its funny how many of their cages have bends everywhere (like, not a single straight piece of tube) and then 100 gussets.

[darinz]

You can do your cage that way but the prefered method is a main hoop behind the seats (within 150mm of drivers head) and then have a hoop that starts by the occupants feet, enclosed the door and meets with the main hoop. From this point the back stays angle down to the chassis. You then joint the 2 door hoops up with a bar running across the top of the windscreen. You need to have at least one diagonal in the main hoop but I'd suggest a cross. You also should have a diagonal in the roof but again I'd suggest a cross or a 'V' (depending on head clearance.
There are more thins to consider like mounting to chassis or body and then there is tube type.
The tube type will depend upon what you plan to do. most winch challenge trucks build to ORANZ spec and so alot are using MSNZ rollcage tube (38.1mm x 2.6mm medium tensile welded tube) but this doesn't comform with NZFWDA specs. To build to that you have to use medium wall steam pipe of varying sizes depending upon the length of the tube and the weight of the vehicle.
I'd suggest a little more research before you buy tube or start cutting things to suit.
Lastly, everytime you bend a tube you weaken it so the less bends in the cage the better. Don't put bends into the back stays!!!! Remeber triangles are your friend.

PS the cage in my new truck has so far taken 55m of tube and will end up with around 65 once complete! However this does tie the suspension mounts into the cage.

this is for a workshop runner

As he said earlier they plan to compete in it first. And some of the bullshit I've seen people turn up to race with is unbelievable.
He wanted advice on the rollcage and that is exactly what I have given him. The difference between doing it right (safe) and half arsed is some knowledge and forethough. It costs the same and takes the same amount of time to do it wrong as it does to do it right.
If you disagree with my advice then what would you suggest he fit into a truck that is going to be raced?

[DieselBoy]

If you build it to NZ4WDA spec's, you can pretty much do what ever you like provided that you main hoop is chassis mounted and that you have the correct size tube and footings.

ORANZ cages are for girls

Really simplistically put:

You want a tough cage that can take the slow hits with out deformation so you can chuck the truck back on its wheels and continue. Thats your NZ4WDA spec cage.

You don't want a light weight cage designed to deform in a high speed crash like an ORANZ cage

Down load the NZ4WDA spec's (which is what the National Trials guys use), the follow the very basic rules and you can't go wrong!!!!

[haynzy]

You can do your cage that way but the prefered method is a main hoop behind the seats (within 150mm of drivers head) and then have a hoop that starts by the occupants feet, enclosed the door and meets with the main hoop. From this point the back stays angle down to the chassis. You then joint the 2 door hoops up with a bar running across the top of the windscreen. You need to have at least one diagonal in the main hoop but I'd suggest a cross. You also should have a diagonal in the roof but again I'd suggest a cross or a 'V' (depending on head clearance.
There are more thins to consider like mounting to chassis or body and then there is tube type.
The tube type will depend upon what you plan to do. most winch challenge trucks build to ORANZ spec and so alot are using MSNZ rollcage tube (38.1mm x 2.6mm medium tensile welded tube) but this doesn't comform with NZFWDA specs. To build to that you have to use medium wall steam pipe of varying sizes depending upon the length of the tube and the weight of the vehicle.
I'd suggest a little more research before you buy tube or start cutting things to suit.
Lastly, everytime you bend a tube you weaken it so the less bends in the cage the better. Don't put bends into the back stays!!!! Remeber triangles are your friend.

PS the cage in my new truck has so far taken 55m of tube and will end up with around 65 once complete! However this does tie the suspension mounts into the cage.

this is for a workshop runner

As he said earlier they plan to compete in it first. And some of the bullshit I've seen people turn up to race with is unbelievable.
He wanted advice on the rollcage and that is exactly what I have given him. The difference between doing it right (safe) and half arsed is some knowledge and forethough. It costs the same and takes the same amount of time to do it wrong as it does to do it right.
If you disagree with my advice then what would you suggest he fit into a truck that is going to be raced?

dont get me wrong i totaly agree about building things right but my interpretation of it is a wagon to initialy compete in a "social" winch challenge which is in terrain where high speeds are not easily acheivable and then when that weekend is over it goes back to a work shop runner, and never see an off road race track or challenge series winch challenge so I didnt see the need for someone to spend time and money building a cage that far exceeds their requirements.

[williamhamilton]

back to me boys

I will make it strong enough not to have my mechanic kill himself or his winch b&^ch but cheap enough that me being Scots does not have a heart attack! input so far has been good for me.

Thanks all

W

[chrome]

i got a bender u can use willy talk to aroha at steel traders and tell her she lost weight over summer when you order your steel , or i can sort you out something in exchange for all the fluid underground in your forecourt

[taz01]

have thought about giving your driver a crash course in rallywoods before kiwi event ........no problem am i able to use your blue 40? although theres a good chance he may never want to drive a 4x4 again let alone be a passenger either...... alice ways a starter tends to break people and trucks

[williamhamilton]

i got a bender u can use willy talk to aroha at steel traders and tell her she lost weight over summer when you order your steel , or i can sort you out something in exchange for all the fluid underground in your forecourt

Lol. I had the sales rep from Traders in today.. I will have to try that with Aroha when we order next You would have to supply a shedload of steel to cover the liquid gold in the tanks these days - every tanker I bring in gets more expensive for me.

I scored a bender recently which I need to test out make sure I can drive it. I can see a couple of weekend sessions in line for me where I get a chance to dirty my overalls and bend something up that is at least safe (if not pretty) - mechanics are not allowed to have all the fun on this one.

have thought about giving your driver a crash course in rallywoods before kiwi event ........no problem am i able to use your blue 40? although theres a good chance he may never want to drive a 4x4 again let alone be a passenger either...... alice ways a starter tends to break people and trucks

I hope to have a couple of trial runs before the Challenge - but alas as I am looking at selling my blue 40 (even my wife says no so I may have to revert to selling my body to fund the poo45 conversion) I suspect that one of your drives would mean I would HAVE to sell my body and I am sure nobody wants me to do that!

An Alice scare does sound like a good way to prep him though.. I will get the Poo45 down for a play soon

UPDATES
Chris rebuilt the carb today and Terry sorted out the booster to give a bit better push and got brake kits to give the stoppers a wee tickle - fronts done backs still to do. Not the most exciting pics so did not add anything.

Not sure on tyres yet but contemplating 35" Maxxis Mudders or Bighorn (hard to beat the prices and damn fine tyres too) - what's the best tyres for the tracks at Rallywoods destined to be in the Challenge (not that I want an assist but yes I need an assist)


Have a second team member it seems, a customer with a FJ40 and is happy to give it a bash - never done comp driving (yet). So..
so far, Poo45 with a mad mechanic/fabricator (potential secret weapon as co-driver woohoo!) a customer with FJ40 (which is pretty rough even by Taz01 standards) with no known co-driver..

seeking a third truck - prefer someone who has years of comp skills, all the fruity bits on their truck to pull the others through and masses of beer for the after match celebrations - if we cannot find that we will settle for someone who wants a good fun weekend

W

[shortylux]

ORANZ cages are for girls

And people who want to do the Taupo 1000.

ORANZ cages don't have to be light, mine is 48mm steam pipe. 4.2mm wall. Mine hopefully will not bend when it falls over slowly. (and with any luck wont kill me when it falls over fast!)

[darinz]

Make sure the bender doesn't deform the tube. Any kinks and it is no good. Also make sure you have no more than 90% deformation or flat spots.

[williamhamilton]

Make sure the bender doesn't deform the tube. Any kinks and it is no good. Also make sure you have no more than 90% deformation or flat spots.

I got to do some testing on the bender and consider the filling with sand trick if needed. Wee while before the comp starts so have some time to get it right.

Other suggestion was buying bends and welding to the straights.. I have read a number of arguments for and against this and would rather not start another but say.. I will consider this also but need some more study on it

W

[darinz]

Make sure the bender doesn't deform the tube. Any kinks and it is no good. Also make sure you have no more than 90% deformation or flat spots.

I got to do some testing on the bender and consider the filling with sand trick if needed. Wee while before the comp starts so have some time to get it right.

Other suggestion was buying bends and welding to the straights.. I have read a number of arguments for and against this and would rather not start another but say.. I will consider this also but need some more study on it

W

There isn't a rollcage spec out there that will allow you to use preformed bends! I have also read the arguements that SOME people have used to say this is safe. Simple answer is it is not acceptable for a rollcage.
All specs require all butt joints to be sleaved etc. They all go further to state that as much as possible continous lengths should be used.
If you have the right sized formers and heavy wall pipe then most benders will bend them. I've used the bow and arrow type and got good quality bends without any stuffing around so it can't be that tough.

[williamhamilton]

A bit of an update.. while I was in Oz at the Aftermarket Expo Chris got busy with the spray gun and ordering pencil!!!

Started on the roll cage and corporate black with 35" Trepadors now need to lift to get clearance though Not enough time to do SOA, lift springs I have are rear ones so.. frankenstein shackle extensions may be the order of the day!

As it stands today

[Bolo]

its looking really good William , keep up the great work , and keep the pics rolling in

[williamhamilton]

Frankenshackle done

[stinky]

Owesum dude

[Sadam_Husain]

had you thought about just lifting the front guards up for tyre clearance (an easy little mod to do ) instead of the frankeshackle that will become a frankenarchilliesheel that will get your truck hooked up and stuck every 10 metres?