Offroad-Express

I recently got some 15x7 white spoke wheels with tyres, and i want to paint them black. What would be the best way to do this? Sand, primer, 2 coats of black? will spray cans do? Im hoping to do a decent job so stones wont chip them when 4wding.

Another thing. I thought i had had stones in my brakes for a few days, and they just didnt want to come out, so today i whipped wheels off and tried tracking them down, all i found was the rear left disc is rooted, and the pads are down to metal, Just grinding now, and while im driving that is all i hear, Thought the other side would be the same, but its seems to be fine? Well i guess its new rotor and pads for the rear...

The stone sound is your no longer brake pads chewing out the disc. If the other side is markedly different I would suggest the caliper needs kitting to. It most likely isn't backing off properly hence the extra wear. Happens, when you play in mud as we do. Worst case is with good pads it all gets hot and shagges the seal as well and you get oil leaking every where

So New pads, rotors and caliper kits.

meatc wrote:The stone sound is your no longer brake pads chewing out the disc. If the other side is markedly different I would suggest the caliper needs kitting to. It most likely isn't backing off properly hence the extra wear. Happens, when you play in mud as we do. Worst case is with good pads it all gets hot and shagges the seal as well and you get oil leaking every where

So New pads, rotors and caliper kits.

Yeah so im guessing that wouldnt be helping with with fuel economy? You think second hand will do? cos im on abit of a budget, And yeah ones side is completely mauled, other is perfectly fine.

Discs should only cost 60-100 bucks, 50ish for pads and about the same for a caliper kit. You may get away without the caliper kit but I would say the piston will need a clean up before you reassemble

meatc wrote:Discs should only cost 60-100 bucks, 50ish for pads and about the same for a caliper kit. You may get away without the caliper kit but I would say the piston will need a clean up before you reassemble

Ok sweet as. We have just done brakes at SIT, so i can manage taking it apart and seeing what sorta cond its in. Will go to BNT and see what im looking at.

Hey,
Terrano rear calipers are real bad for binding on the sliders.
This is why they wear one pad and not the other.
One of the rear diffs I bought had this issue, so picked up a couple of second hand discs and calipers off tardme for real cheap. Now I have a complete spare diff lying around with good brakes on it
From time to time when I have the rear wheels off and are cleaning the Woodhill "grinding paste" out of the brakes I make sure the pads are wearing evenly and the sliders are free.
Helps when it comes to warrant time too.
Cheers,

sibainmud wrote:Hey,
Terrano rear calipers are real bad for binding on the sliders.
This is why they wear one pad and not the other.
One of the rear diffs I bought had this issue, so picked up a couple of second hand discs and calipers off tardme for real cheap. Now I have a complete spare diff lying around with good brakes on it
From time to time when I have the rear wheels off and are cleaning the Woodhill "grinding paste" out of the brakes I make sure the pads are wearing evenly and the sliders are free.
Helps when it comes to warrant time too.
Cheers,

Do you think if i pull the calliper apart and grease it up it will be ok? Or would of it actually worn the metal?

The one I had, wore the pad metal away completely
and started wearing the caliper piston too
If only the pad is worn, replace the disc and pads and free up the sliders. I used copper coat to lube sliders.
Don't let too much grease escape and end up on the discs or the new pads
Cheers,

sibainmud wrote:The one I had, wore the pad metal away completely
and started wearing the caliper piston too
If only the pad is worn, replace the disc and pads and free up the sliders. I used copper coat to lube sliders.
Don't let too much grease escape and end up on the discs or the new pads
Cheers,

Ok sweet as, yeah iv still got about 8mm of metal till it gets too the piston. Should get it sorted before then i hope, using as daily driver though, kind of a pain.

righto so getting back to the original question


did you buy them brand new, coz you should of requested factory black ones if you did

otherwise if you don't want to get paint chips etc etc, then unfortunately you need to get them powdercoated

otherwise buy a few cans of spray paint and go to town, then keep spare cans on shelf for future touch ups

trouble is you should of done it before you had tyres fitted otherwise you gonna get paint all over ya tahs

skid wrote:righto so getting back to the original question


did you buy them brand new, coz you should of requested factory black ones if you did

otherwise if you don't want to get paint chips etc etc, then unfortunately you need to get them powdercoated

otherwise buy a few cans of spray paint and go to town, then keep spare cans on shelf for future touch ups

trouble is you should of done it before you had tyres fitted otherwise you gonna get paint all over ya tahs

Cheers for that, Na i bought all second hand for $230, rims and tyres. you think i should sand down before painting? I think ill do what you said and just touch up when it chips.

give them a really good wash with a degreaser

then find a good spray paint that is known to be easy to spray and good ahesion, I did 10 years in a tyre shop and we used a product called 'Pacer Wheel Silver'. I found it to be awesome for sticking to anything and great as an undercoat, then spray black over the top

Can sand them but easiest to just scotchbrite them, go to local paintshop or car paint distributor and get some red scotch of them or just use the old green scotchpad from supermarket.

When I painted my white steelies black, I just primed them twice, painted them black with two coats, with a brush, unless you looked real close you couldn't even see it.

Keeping the original white underneath the 4 coats meant little chance of rust and it didn't show through anyway.

All I dis was clean them first.

Cheers

a mate painted his wheels with this wicked camo job. he covered the sidewall of the tires with a smear of grease to stop the paint sticking- worked well.

hay bro i just rubbed my wheels down with goldilocks and jif, then coated them with some satin black from supercheap. been on there 2 years and no chips yet

JONO250 wrote:hay bro i just rubbed my wheels down with goldilocks and jif, then coated them with some satin black from supercheap. been on there 2 years and no chips yet

Did you rub it quite hard to kindof sand the old paint? and how many cans will i need for 4 wheels?

nah just took the shine off the original paint, 2 cans is all you need.

shit i might of overkilled mine... i chucked em on the bead blaster at work. gonna spay over with etch prime this morning then go buy some colour later on