Offroad-Express

Looking at buying a 4.2 safari, but she is an auto..Or should i look for a manual one...

My personal opinion Id buy a manuel. I had a auto mine was pretty tired never changed when it should or when I wanted it to. Autos run hotter than manuels they hate water thats why I have a manuel now Manuel yourve got the pto option. Autos arnt as economical, But they are good for crawling over rocks ect, and traffic. Cant go wrong with a safari

Good luck with the purchase

they can be a problem, at times, as mud hog said they don't like getting hot , shift issue's lock up problems but do drive nice when they go

Thanks guys...will def look at the manual version, there a cheapy on trademe

i've had both and would far prefer an auto, I've had my current one about 9 years and it hasn't missed a beat, a lot better in water, try changing gear in deep water with a manual, mine is fitted with a switch and modified valve body to provide lock up in all gears and a big trans cooler, would never go back to a manual.

each to there own really and its a personal choice, autos are nice but i found it to be a problem with big tyres and ratios, also should it be necesary you cant bump start them and they shouldnt be towed for to long, also they can overheat, but thats assuming they break down which they dont really.. i have owned 7 now and 3 were auto and all three were completely differnt one was total crap, one was awesome, and my daily driver i have now is very good, alot depends on the strength of the motor in front of it and if the auto has been serviced (servicing is the key in all autos) i love my auto as my daily driver but if it went wrong i would change to manual.... my offroad truck is manual and without doubt i prefer manual for offroad but that is just my preference... all safaris drive different some are slugs and some are very lively, nothing a turbo wont cure though, noone can really give you a definitive answer on this just there opinion, and that was mine

have to admit the older i get the more i wish was mine was an auto, just did a 700km road trip on the weekend looking at cars for the mrs, and was shattered by the time we got home, Auto's reduce driver fatigue quite a bit on long trips, Darinz will be along shortly to tell you all about the virtues of an Auto .. he knows them pretty well and with the valve body modification/lockup go way better offroad.

Personally I think Offroad Auto's are better if you a newbie or dont do a lot of 4wding as you have better control over the tricky bits, Downhill braking and gearing with Larger tyres on the manuals is better though, But I have to admit I LOVE my PTO winch and if you By a LWB Whale .. You will be using it quite a bit ..... Im forever pulling Toyota's out of the poo

All the Manual Safari's Ive driven all have very nice Manual Clutch feel, they are Vacuum assisted so they are nice and light, My 16 YO son is currently driving mine around lots to get experience and he says it's easier to drive than the Toyota Corolla of the Mrs.

Had both. Got a manual now but if I had to pick I'd go auto.
Auto rebuilds ain't cheap but manual clutches can add up as well.

Taz wrote:Had both. Got a manual now but if I had to pick I'd go auto.
Auto rebuilds ain't cheap but manual clutches can add up as well.

Agree auto rebuilds aren't cheap, but second hand autos are... just depends how much you mind swapping them

Best of both worlds is an auto with manual shift for offroad. Anytime you have a clutch offroad you have a weak point. Deep water and lots of mud then you want an auto as it has no effect as long as you have your breathers high enough!
For on road and towing then I'd go Manual and I'm in the process of selling my 96 TD42T auto and getting an old petrol manual one as a toy / tow / support truck.
Auto's don't cost that much more than a GOOD clutch to rebuild and will last about the same length of time so relative running costs aren't that different.
Engine braking is something that unskilled drivers use and the uneducated use to justify having a manual. Once you learn left foot braking you will never worry about engine breaking again.

Did I mention that an auto is over 100kgs lighter than the manual!

No perfect solution, some need auto and some need manual so decide based upon your intended use not upon the opinion of people who don't know what you are going to use it for. Both GQ auto's and manuals are strong and reliable IF serviced correctly.

Opinions are like a..holes, everyone's got one and they all stink!

darinz wrote:
Did I mention that an auto is over 100kgs lighter than the manual!

Is that with or without the factory PTO fitted Darin??

o perfect solution, some need auto and some need manual so decide based upon your intended use not upon the opinion of people who don't know what you are going to use it for. Both GQ auto's and manuals are strong and reliable IF serviced correctly.

Opinions are like a..holes, everyone's got one and they all stink!

"Re: Automatic Safari opinions"
Well he WAS asking for our opinion in the header

iv had both now, loved my manual one, realy nice al round, wouldnt av had anything else........
then a nice truck came along when i was looking for a new one, it was auto, but thort id dave a look anyways..it was mint to drive, and will probly keep as auto now ive have it a while. mudhog had an auto that was completly crap and wouldnt change nice at all?. guess each truck seems to be differant, so maybe just tha way theyve been looked after? id have a drive of each and see what you like, ive had both now and both have been exelent in difffernt ways

"Best of both worlds is an auto with manual shift for offroad. Anytime you have a clutch offroad you have a weak point. Deep water and lots of mud then you want an auto as it has no effect as long as you have your breathers high enough!"

The computer doesnt like being being a couple of feet under water even after trying to water proof

simple, don't change gear in water or muddy water

coxsy wrote:simple, don't change gear in water or muddy water

not always that easy to do though, the amount of times your stuck with water or mud over the top of the gear box? rick has mentioned that puting a gu auto in can be a good option, much stronger and wont blow up so easy?

going to have a look at a long wheel base auto today..its that or a jeep laredo...

Not a very nice example i viewed today..back to looking around around again

What area are you looking? people may keep an eye out for you or know of some good examples.

mines for sale on trade me. only selling due to change of circumstances and now needing a doublecab. trademe Listing #: 363609917

cheers jono

firestonecruiser wrote:mines for sale on trade me. only selling due to change of circumstances and now needing a doublecab. trademe Listing #: 363609917

cheers jono

Cheers Jono but a little to rich for me...

what exactly are you looking for, a shiny daily driver to modify slightly or something that will turn into a full on offroader that is still legal... do you have the skills/abilities/gear and more importantly time to modify/repair as this can determine what sort of thing your looking for, go with an open mind, for example, if something has damage to maybe the lower rear quarters it doesnt matter if you are going to cut them off, if seats are ripped put recaros in, thats just an example but some people look for a minter and then cut it up when a slightly more used looking truck would do the job at less money....rust issues are something that needs thinking about espeicially if its chassis but it can all be repaired, i have spent the last 5 months building my truck up which in all honesty was rougher than i thought in the body and some roof woork was extensive and time consuming... thing is if its mechanicaly good then its not going to be expensive to repair just time consuming..

if your on a budget id be staying asfar away from a jeep as poss, those things drink money more than fuel when its time for some mantinence

Not looking for a minter, but something that is not a shitter, people seem to have a wide range of what they call tidy, I dont think eaten door cards, faded to fu@k paint and an engine bay you cant see for oil is a tidy example, would sooner get something in stock trim so i can lift it and modify it myself, not some half ass butchered back yard wanna be has done, dont get me wrong some guys have spent a lot of time and money and it serves the purpose,and has been done very well, but when a guy takes an angle grinder to guards and butchers up some sort of bull bar arrangement, no thanks, ....really want a 4 door model so it wont be a full on bush basher...more a family truck to get dirty..

meece4x4 wrote:

darinz wrote:
Did I mention that an auto is over 100kgs lighter than the manual!

Is that with or without the factory PTO fitted Darin??

That is just the gerbox. PTO is a manual option only so makes it even heavier.

The GU auto (if RE4R03a eg 4 speed) is the same as the late model GQ auto. (eg 93 on) This auto is used in alsorts from Patrols / Safari's to, 300ZX (twin turbo) to Infiniti (VH45) to Light trucks, buses and some Mitsi's etc. the only version that is stronger is the VH45 as this has more cultch packs in it. All of the others run the same number of clutches etc so are the same in strength. The difference is in the fluid capcity (late model has 11l as opposed to 8.5 in early ones) and that they will most likely have less K's on them. So yes a late model auto is a better option but not stronger.

Also the computer is inside the cab but low down. (passenger footwell) If you get water inside your cab that isn't the auto's weakness and it is easy to shift it higher if you plan on filling your truck with water! If you get water this deep in a manual then you'll kill the fatory 24v to 12v reducer so it is a weakness with both models.

darinz wrote:

meece4x4 wrote:

darinz wrote:
Did I mention that an auto is over 100kgs lighter than the manual!

Is that with or without the factory PTO fitted Darin??

That is just the gerbox. PTO is a manual option only so makes it even heavier.

The GU auto (if RE4R03a eg 4 speed) is the same as the late model GQ auto. (eg 93 on) This auto is used in alsorts from Patrols / Safari's to, 300ZX (twin turbo) to Infiniti (VH45) to Light trucks, buses and some Mitsi's etc. the only version that is stronger is the VH45 as this has more cultch packs in it. All of the others run the same number of clutches etc so are the same in strength. The difference is in the fluid capcity (late model has 11l as opposed to 8.5 in early ones) and that they will most likely have less K's on them. So yes a late model auto is a better option but not stronger.

Also the computer is inside the cab but low down. (passenger footwell) If you get water inside your cab that isn't the auto's weakness and it is easy to shift it higher if you plan on filling your truck with water! If you get water this deep in a manual then you'll kill the fatory 24v to 12v reducer so it is a weakness with both models.

So, early model up to 1991 auto was what model number, Or are they all RE4R03a?

I had mine fully rebuilt, with a new stall converter...cost $2800 all up fitted. Then had a lock up switch fitted (it already had an external cooler).

I like the way the auto can creep down a real steep slope at about 2-3kph, very easy off road (considering it's a LWB high roof)...

All GQ's use the RE3R03A but there are some slight differences.

$2,800 fitted is a good price but what I'd do is get the clutches upgrades to VH45 spec. No mods required just need to order a different part number and not much in it prce wise. I got mine done a few years ago and Cost $3,100 but that included synthetic fluid at about $400!

Did they strengthen the TC? For heavy use you should get spline strengthened. (extra weld)

With the lock up be careful to use it when cruising or engine braking only. Don't be tempted to use it under acceleration as it will wear the lock up clutch out fast. Yes the clutch is string enough to stall the engine but it won't handle lots of load which is why the computer cuts it out very quickly under acceleration.

FYI I'm running a fully manual RE4R03A with 550hp and it handles that easily. ie no overheating, sliping etc. It does have massive coolers and synthetic fluid but the gear set and clutches are exactly as above! Rumour has it there are guys running 1000hp through on drag cars so for offroad you basically half the maximum to get a reliable hp capacity.

darinz wrote:

meece4x4 wrote:

darinz wrote:
Did I mention that an auto is over 100kgs lighter than the manual!

Is that with or without the factory PTO fitted Darin??

That is just the gerbox. PTO is a manual option only so makes it even heavier.

The GU auto (if RE4R03a eg 4 speed) is the same as the late model GQ auto. (eg 93 on) This auto is used in alsorts from Patrols / Safari's to, 300ZX (twin turbo) to Infiniti (VH45) to Light trucks, buses and some Mitsi's etc. the only version that is stronger is the VH45 as this has more cultch packs in it. All of the others run the same number of clutches etc so are the same in strength. The difference is in the fluid capcity (late model has 11l as opposed to 8.5 in early ones) and that they will most likely have less K's on them. So yes a late model auto is a better option but not stronger.

Also the computer is inside the cab but low down. (passenger footwell) If you get water inside your cab that isn't the auto's weakness and it is easy to shift it higher if you plan on filling your truck with water! If you get water this deep in a manual then you'll kill the fatory 24v to 12v reducer so it is a weakness with both models.

Where abouts is the 24v to 12v reducer? May need to move that.

Mud Hog wrote:
Where abouts is the 24v to 12v reducer? May need to move that.

2 inches off the floor under the passengers kick panel, just unclip the plastic cover by their left foot, it's hiding under there, if it's anything like mine will be covered in corrosion from previous dunkings

meece4x4 wrote:

Mud Hog wrote:
Where abouts is the 24v to 12v reducer? May need to move that.

2 inches off the floor under the passengers kick panel, just unclip the plastic cover by their left foot, it's hiding under there, if it's anything like mine will be covered in corrosion from previous dunkings

Arn't you talking about the auto computer?

yeah my reducer was under the radio i think.