80 Series 12 valve verses 24 valve fuel econ & durability

[nicinnz]

Thinking of trading my KZJ-95 Prado on an 80 Series Cruiser, What are the 24 valve engines like in the latter 80 series, are they ok on fuel or are they still thirsty like the earlier 12 valve engines, what other issues do they have?
Maybe with the price of fuel these days I would be better to stick with my Prado

[sig]

they are better than a 12 valve but still thirsty .not sure how many kms out of a tank but filled my manual one up in kumeu (west akld ) and got to welly on one tank.orange light was on last 50 kms .sat about 100-105 most of the way

[mayday]

We have a prado 1kzte and also an 80 series 12 valve, 80 series cheaper on long journeys and playdo better round town. Before I modded the 80 it was super economical but that was when diesel was cheaper too! If you want to tow heavy stuff buy an 80 but if you want cheap running stick with the prado imo

[1hamish1]

Ive had a 12 valve, currently have a 24 valve manual. With all the emission crap removed, extra boost and fuel wound up I get around 650km from 75 litres. Its a manual with part time kit also thu. My 12 valve had similiar mods and used more fuel although it was auto. Of the two I love the performance of the 24 valve but they are both great engines. Taking the emission stuff of the 24 valve makes a huge gain to there low end perfomance as does a good tune on the pump and offboost reg.

[Ginzu8]

man maybe i should look at getting a 80 series myself. my 1kz-te kzj78 prado can only manage 560kms per full tank of diesel (averagig 13L per 100kms on the open road).. thats with around 70 Litres to top up..

[crazyclark31]

best the old man has got out of his 80 is 530km. It normally gets approx 450km
Even with a 3in exhuast it a bit of a slug(its an auto).

for open road driving go an 80 but for round town and shorter drives i 'd go the prado
for off road found the 80 bloody good except for the tight bush stuff

[Jerry]

80 would be better offroad than a kzj95 as the centre diffs in the playdo's are weak, front high pinion diff in 80 is a known weak point a well (when reversing under load?). Big end bearings may be a known issue on the 80 series motor as well

80's and kzj95's have emission crap which can be removed, on the kzj the inlet manifold thingy slowly blocks up. 1kz runs heaps better without hot exaust gas being pushed back into it (looking into it for mine). both trucks are still pricey these days. I get 13L/100k out of my kzj95. the 80 is a bit bigger if its in the city (more hassle parking)

do you want it for offroad?, road trips? towing? if so how heavy are you towing?, maybe put all your needs on a bit of paper and rate each truck out of 10 on each item ..... this may help in your decision

[1hamish1]

80 series cruisers are so de tuned from the factory I have found with both I have owned that the more I played with tuning etc I got heaps better go out of them, but believe it or not fuel economy got alot better to. Sounds like crazy clarks old man should tune his truck up!!! definatley should not be a slug. My first one was a 12 valve and it was really sluggish off the line. A couple of simple tweeks on the offboost comp, a little bit on the ramp and some on the mainset and it smoked wheels haha

[jakwoo39]

what does everybody mean when they say emissions crap removed? is my 13bt 70 series likley to have any?

[crazyclark31]

80 series cruisers are so de tuned from the factory I have found with both I have owned that the more I played with tuning etc I got heaps better go out of them, but believe it or not fuel economy got alot better to. Sounds like crazy clarks old man should tune his truck up!!! definatley should not be a slug. My first one was a 12 valve and it was really sluggish off the line. A couple of simple tweeks on the offboost comp, a little bit on the ramp and some on the mainset and it smoked wheels haha

Any chance you could elaberate a bit on those tweaks? Would be really keen in any help to fix the off the line issues. He hates it when i blow him in the weeds with he 60 series(turboed 3b)

[1hamish1]

crazy clark here is a useful write up for you- http://lcool.org/technical/80_series/1h ... p_adj.html

This info applies for a 1hdt also. Is your old mans truck a 12 or 24 valve. My 12 valve auto I used to own was exactly like what you explain, could hardly even break into a roundabout it was so sluggish. Its the offboost characteristics that do this. I took it to wopass and he transformed it very quickly into a completey differant truck, it would launch off the line even with a big trailer. Take note of the bit in the link talking about turning the wheel under the offboost comp. We turned mine 5 clicks but its totally up to you and depends where your starting point is also. This is the adustment that makes the big differance. Its quite fine and hard to feel so be carefull and take your time remembering what you have done. Take small adjustments and then drive. You will know when you have it because all of a sudden it will be a very differant truck. I also bought a 4wd bits intercooler and upped boost to 16 psi and gave the mainset a little bit more fuel. I have found on my 24 valve that I now have, that simply removing the emmisions stuff and installing an intercooler it has had much the same affect, as the 24 valve model comes with emmision gear that the 12 valve doesnt. The emission gear controls to some extent the offboost, therefore removing it makes a very noticable gain, easiest way to get rid of it is contact warren and buy a top mount. Either way I recommend intercooling. If you have the 24 valve model remove the emmision gear before you adjust anything, you may not need to. Its good he has a 3 inch exhaust that will help with egts. The aim of tuning is to get a puff of black smoke offboost, but it should clear once its making full boost. Lots of black smoke at full throttle is not what you want. Remember that high egts are bad, having said that small offboost adjustments are pretty safe on these engines and have run mine hard for years, dont be too gready on the main set adjustment screw only give it a little, and if you up boost you will want a 1/4 to 1/2 turn on that. Here is another link just look at the photos shows what to look for http://www.tlocuk.co.uk/forums/viewtopi ... a75d7e12e5

[crazyclark31]

crazy clark here is a useful write up for you- http://lcool.org/technical/80_series/1h ... p_adj.html

This info applies for a 1hdt also. Is your old mans truck a 12 or 24 valve. My 12 valve auto I used to own was exactly like what you explain, could hardly even break into a roundabout it was so sluggish. Its the offboost characteristics that do this. I took it to wopass and he transformed it very quickly into a completey differant truck, it would launch off the line even with a big trailer. Take note of the bit in the link talking about turning the wheel under the offboost comp. We turned mine 5 clicks but its totally up to you and depends where your starting point is also. This is the adustment that makes the big differance. Its quite fine and hard to feel so be carefull and take your time remembering what you have done. Take small adjustments and then drive. You will know when you have it because all of a sudden it will be a very differant truck. I also bought a 4wd bits intercooler and upped boost to 16 psi and gave the mainset a little bit more fuel. I have found on my 24 valve that I now have, that simply removing the emmisions stuff and installing an intercooler it has had much the same affect, as the 24 valve model comes with emmision gear that the 12 valve doesnt. The emission gear controls to some extent the offboost, therefore removing it makes a very noticable gain, easiest way to get rid of it is contact warren and buy a top mount. Either way I recommend intercooling. If you have the 24 valve model remove the emmision gear before you adjust anything, you may not need to. Its good he has a 3 inch exhaust that will help with egts. The aim of tuning is to get a puff of black smoke offboost, but it should clear once its making full boost. Lots of black smoke at full throttle is not what you want. Remember that high egts are bad, having said that small offboost adjustments are pretty safe on these engines and have run mine hard for years, dont be too gready on the main set adjustment screw only give it a little, and if you up boost you will want a 1/4 to 1/2 turn on that. Here is another link just look at the photos shows what to look for http://www.tlocuk.co.uk/forums/viewtopi ... a75d7e12e5

Mate your a legend. will be gettin onto it this week. FYI its a 12 valve. Old mans not after big horse powergains just to get the bloody thing to move when hit the gas pedal.
am up with the play in regards to the smoke/boost/egt side of things. am just finishing a safari i've turbo'ed. pump maxed out and egts around the 550c max.
Again thanks for the info

sorry bout the thread jack

[1hamish1]

No prob. Keep tuning till it really jumps off the line. Its a real shame they didnt come from the factory with the potential they have, most people have owned them for years and could have enjoyed a much cooler performing truck.

And am also sorry for the thread jack