Kayaking Malaysia's longest River Solo

[geckoadventure]

Chasing Otters to the South China Sea by a kiwi lost in Malaysia. Not a true 4x4 story but my trusty handbag LJ77 supported me.

5 months of Planning (2 recces and one failed trip due to equipment failure).

Distance is approximately 403 kilometers (240 miles) - no idea how far each day will take me or how long the journey will be. My support - friends all driving my trusty handbag wagon the GREEN auto powered 1KZ LJ77.

So why am I crossing two large rivers congruence in the pitch black after drinking two cans of beer after finishing for the the day worse it's on an empty stomach totally dangerous - read on to find out what caused this and the rest of part one of 200k of the 400+killermeter kayaking adventure.

The trip planning started in Christmas 2009 when we went to Taman Negara (I was sitting at Nusa Resort watching the river taxi's) for a few days to unwind in the 4x4's and I had a stupid idea wondering if I could Kayak Taman Negara river (Sg Tembeling) from the destination we failed to get to Kuala Tahan (Taman Negara headquarters).

Well stupid ideas with me often become reality so after much research was done pouring over Garmin maps and google earth and reading up where I could I decided stuff it I cannot resist this I'm going to paddle from Kampung Mat Daling on the far Eastern Side of Taman Negara to the South China Sea with no TRAINING.

Soon I had a plan for road and water and GPS popints etc all prepared. I had several people volunteer to be support.

The first trip failed when the support truck carrying the Kayaks overheated after the repair for the failed fan and water pump also failed.

Undaunted we re-prepared and tested the support truck over the same route (yup up and over the 800 meter climb and back) to make sure it was ok this time.

At the last minute my kayaking partner (my future wife) pulled out leaving me solo or cancel - stuff that I continue ok.

I have also promised $2000rm donation to the Seeing Is Believing charity at work when I make the full distance so I am determined not to fail - not that fail is in my vocablary.

Day 0

Wednesday nite I am on tenderhooks all day the kayak is on the truck we are off 6pm and the second support truck the following night.

I finally get to pickup the first support crew (Peter or WD40 to some) at 10.00pm. Peter has been support for me in the Simpson Desert Cycle Races before he enjoys this stuff. Kantha (or Demontweeks to some is due to arrive on Friday morning in the Hilux hopefully at Camp Nusa) and we cruise off for the long 8 hour drive to the put in point at Kampung (village) Mat Daling in Pahang on the far Eastern side of Malaysia's Taman Negara (or National Park). The goal paddle as far as I can down the Tembeling River to where it becomes Sg Pahang (or Pahang River) and follow this to the ocean some 400k later. Its 379k from Where Sg Pahang starts to the Ocean and over 130k from Kampung Mat Daling to the start of Sg Pahang. 2.00am and we are having a final meal at Jerantut before we head of to Kuala Tahan and the start of the 4x4 track.

The total distance we have to travel tonite is over 300k. 225k to the trailhead and 70+ on a dusty or muddy logging track depending on the weather.

The trip to the trailhead is uneventful and I sleep most of the way for the first 225k. The Road from Jerantut (80k) to Kuala Tahan is perilous with CATTLE everywhere and usually just after you have crested a rise so they can ambush you as you crest the hill 50k an hour is the safe speed we decide. However, I'm fully awake for the 4x4 part and we think we are safe from Lorri Hauntu's (Ghost truck or basically a LOGGING TRUCK - 27+ tonnes of logs on the back of a WWII 6x6 truck)) until a pair of oncoming headlights and the distinct GROWL of a LARGE labouring diesel engine we realise shit LORRI hantu off the track. That wakes us up, several more pass us. We spy more lights clawing skyward so we stop and wait and wait and wait 7 minutes to be exact.




Nothing comes past we give up and drive on - no sign of the Lorri Hantu was seen nor any tracks - did we see a real Ghost Lorri - scary crap.

5.30am we both need sleep - realising the starting time of 7.00am has gone we decide to stop at Bukit Awan (Awan Hill a lookout over Sg Tembeling 381 meters up) some 30 minutes away and setup camp.



Our view of the world from 381 meters up.


Haha two beds out in the open with the truck to protect us from the Lorri Hantu's. We also get phone reception here and SMS Kantha (Hilux Support) and Yoke of the situation.


Day 1 - Thursday

We both awake with a start at 9.35am (yup a passing lorri hantu wakes me up)

The offending LORRI



We are on the road again at 10.00am and refreshed with 40+k still to go to Kampung Mat Daling.

Quick Hide LORRI HANTU.


Water Tank.




The turnoff is uneventful till we spot fresh bulldozer tracks - arrrrghhhhhhhhh then we nearly hit the bulldozer grinning we carry on.



12.00pm we cruise quietly into Kampung Mat Daling and order lunch - Kampung Fried Chicken and Fried Rice - its delicious and the locals want to know all about what we are doing.

The GREEN wagon at Kampung Mat Daling



Soon its time to unpack and the Kayak is dumped on the jetty and loaded up - 18 liters of water - 15kg of kitchen kit and food. Clothes and tent and sleeping matress.

It takes 4 of us to lower the kayak into the water. I say goodbye to Peter its 1:40pm and I give him 30 minutes head start to the wooden bridge before setting off (bad mistake). I tow the kayak out to the center channel so there is enough water to make it float with me on it. Then my journey starts 2:10pm 8k to the first RV at the wooden bridge maybe an hour just less. How wrong could I been. The current is slow and the sandbars mean a lot of walking is done towing the kayak.








I end up taking two hours and 10 minutes and there is Peter on the bridge camera in hand.



The boat which passed me was towing these two solid log canoes.


This is what Peter saw hahaha


Then the surprise in this lorri is a guy standing up at the back, in the cab is two then the shocker there is two sitting behind the guy sitting down - talk about a jungle taxi.



Then this came across when I was underneath - yes its a HILUX. Running on 2-3 cylinders but still running.



We chat he has had fun 8 fully laden lorri hantu's have come over the bridge. As I come to the bridge a boat comes downstream towing what I realise is precut planks for the one of the traditional long boats. With the water a little deeper I cruise on soon I'm at a village not on the map SRI TEMBELING hude and a watch a fisherman casting his net coming up empty each time. The bridge I discover is 12 kilometers from the start and not 8 like we thought.

I pass a small covered workshop where they are making a traditional long boat cool. Somewhere along here is the start of the east side of TAMAN Negara the right side of the river Taman Negara (and since I have not registered to be there off limits for me) and the left side forest - I just call it paradise.

[geckoadventure]

Fisherman casting a net (the whole trip I never saw a fisherman catch or net a fish).


Arriving Kuala Sat


5.13pm I arrive at the next RV point (15k from the start) which is Kuala Sat and we decide to call it a day why travel 10k more downstream and camp by myself when I can be sitting with Peter drinking beer - crikey #@#@#@# we forgot to buy beer.

I elect to stay with Peter. We drive up to the village and buy a couple of drinks however there is no food to purchase.

We watch the locals play the evening game of soccer. Then its back down to the riverbank and setup camp. Soon after a pile of "idiots" from the village turn up and the village idiot is in full cry - u want coconut - yes - in the tree - Can I sit in your boat - NO - Can take for paddle - NO - eventually I tire of this crap and cook dinner. My my wonderful baked beans - Hokkien Chicken and corn all from a tin - delightful and simple to cook along with a hot chocolate. Meantime we try and use our mobile phones but they do not work.

Sunset is soon after 7.21pm and its peaceful no tarp we are sleeping out in the open with a million stars for candle lite and a full moon. We sit and watch the river go by. 10pm there is a thunder storm and suddenly a handphone jumps - it's Kantha he is leaving Kuala Lumpur want anything - YUP BEER and Batteries and your GeckoAdventure crew shirts from the house and our phones work also. We also warn him about the COWS and the LORRY HANTU's that should keep him awake on the drive in in a STOCK HILUX hahaha. Peter stays awake until Kantha arrives.

Eventually exhausted from only 3 hours sleep I fall asleep in bed.

4.00am I hear a phone - Kantha I'm at the wooden bridge where are you - were are at Kuala Sat as planned 4k away you missed the left turnoff on the GPS - 5.00am I hear voices and a the familiar thump of a HILUX 2KD engine and Kantha arrives on the beach in the stock HILUX. It's covered in MUD. The two of them stay awake I go back to sleep for a while but they forget to wake me.

Green at Kuala Sat



Cooking Breakfast Kuala Sat Day 2.



Green at camp Day 2 morning at Kuala Sat on Sg Tembeling


Sg Tembeling Day 2 morning at Kuala Sat.



The morning camp site.



The "Clean" Hilux after its 20k blast throught the pouring rain.



Day 2 - Friday

7.00am I'm awake rats I'm supposed to be in the water the whole river is covered in mist wonderful and cool - breakfast cereal and milk and a cup of hot chocolate - wow all energy food. 8.00am the Kayak is packed and I'm off scheduled to meet the two guys at Kampung (Village) Pagi some 30k down the river at around 2pm.







It is a nice paddle in the mist and it's so cool I encounter small herds of Water buffaloe which run when you get to close.
I have an incident with 4 buffalo's most buffalos run when you invade their space - bugger these 4 stamp their feet and then move towards me - I have to back paddle hwoever I'm in the crap as the water is so shallow than can out run me haha I paddle back quietly then get the video out.

I hear monkeys birds and more birds the jungle is alive the whole morning with chorus's of birds fantastic.

This herd scatters as I get close in.



Every turn you get scenery and isolation like this the jungle filled with chirping birds.


Soon the mist melts and the unrelenting sun belts down on my black hat.


I have an incident with 4 buffalo's most buffalos run when you invade their space - bugger these 4 stamp their feet and then move towards me - I have to back paddle hwoever I'm in the crap as the water is so shallow than can out run me haha I paddle back quietly then get the video out.

Close too close notice the body language and the feet lifting.


Close too close notice the body language and the feet lifting.


Occasionally I have to get out and haul the kayak across sandbank otherwise its a nice gentle paddle I think my body tells me otherwise.

Kampung Pagi gets closer and the sound of a Imam for prayer tells me I'm close to human habitation again. I'm really stuffed and its almost lunchtime. Time to get on the radio - they are there JUST - more later they tell me - they must of had a problem. I cruise the rapid into Kampung Pagi and pull up at the jetty and we climb the stairs to the restaurant. 2009 the water was over the restaurant - unbelieveable thats a good 10 meters above the current level.

Then the story - ah yes well we were in the dust of many many LORRI Hantu's and we missed the turnoff and went to Camp Nusa some 30k further on and had to turn back and the GPS point to here was a bit vague so so trial and errored it to find Kampung Pagi .



Lunch is delicious Fried Rice and Chicken and its got a nice spice bite to it - I would recommend this place to anyone. The reason they were late - well well well they missed the turnoff to Kampung Pagi sitting in the dust of a Lorri Hantu and drove all the way to Camp Nusa before they realised they had missed the turn.



45 minutes later lunch time is up and back on the river - next RV with the crew is Camp Nusa another 25k down the river and I join the ferry boats running up and down the river.

Suddenly Rapids - wow loud over a 1km away I can hear the roar is this bad or not? I pull up to have a look and get a lucky break a boat comes up the river so I watch the route - and there is a side channel - I elect to take it also. It's too easy in the big fishing kayak I video the rapids descent look mum no hands.

There are many places to camp along here including a wonderful sandy and rocky island pity I have to get to Camp Nusa I just wanna stop and have a swim and camp.

The afternoon cruises on slowly at 6-8k an hour and then I spot a head in the water or is no no no its an OTTER cool I start to follow it as it's also swimming downstream - through rapids and and on and on I can never get to closer than about 80 meters then there is more and it realises I'm following and using the skills it learned at CIA tracking school looses me with a long dive. Damn mind now released from the chase I paddle on looking for more. I start to get near to Camp Nusa I stop for a power bar and sultanas break, check my GPS and continue on. The otter has made my day so far.

I am quietly paddling along in murky water in what appears to be a fishing sanctuary - when I suddenly spot movement - TOMAN FRIES - then two dark shapes and they suddenly explode into action and SPLIT TOMANS and BIG - Rats I get the camera up and snap a shot however the shot is not as good as the view I get through the polarising glasses. The black shape on the left is a Toman and the two wakes left by the Mum and Dad awesome.

The pic of the Tomans.



Soon the GPS tells me I am 1,000 meters from camp however I stuff up a rapid and being smart/cocky I take video while riding the rapid. Bad move the big kayak hooks a rock and I'm stranded drop the camera and paddle and rock until its free before I flip over then the next through bueries the nose under the waves and the whole Kayak is under water. I pull up to empty the kayak out the bait box is full I'm sacked and the front full of water and there is a bunch of boats here with passengers letting of steam and cooling in the wonderful warm yes the water is about 30celcius river water and swinging off a rope into the water. I drain the bait box its full and I'm soaked. Now I'm 700 meters from camp and the radio is now alive they will set up the camera for a video of me coming down the rapid to camp.

video of me stuffing up the rapid.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=/[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qrZy-0yhaRk[/youtube][/youtube]


Cool the Camp Nusa rapid is one you do not wanna screw up with people watching from the restaurant above and being a double rapid your gonna get messed up if you falter on the top rapid. Easy stuff and I'm in camp.

Coming is
2010_05_28_TamanNegara_637_MVI_0785.CampNusa.MOV

[geckoadventure]

A cold beer a wash and then dinner wow at Camp Nusa and I get driven up to the restaruant. Dinner is a hamburger - then 2 and finally I scoff down 3 hamburgers before my hunger has passed. I lie in the lazy chair in the restaurant until the other two finish their cigarettes.

Magic place for dinner and watch the river flow by, 60k down only 340k to go until it hits the South China Sea.

Back to camp and we sleep outside again I'm in bed (sleeping on the ground) and out like a light the other two drink cold beer and smoke cigarettes all nite.

For HILUX Fans - stock HILUX apart from the CHIPPED engine and HT Michelens.




The muddy Hilux and the Mardi Gra Float at Camp Nusa Beach.




The KAYAK and the route I go tomorrow morning.




The Camp Nusa Restaurant and yes the water reaches in in Monsoon.




The Camp - So nice.




Great pic by Peter of the campsite.




Another great pic and our well set up camp.




Hey this guys is a pro cameraman - great shots. Thats me in the background.




YEs thats right Kantha is scared of the jungle and sleeps in the car.



Day 3 - Saturday



Awake and cook breakfast - wow cereal and milk again and a hot chocolate.



A bird arrives to greet us with a morning song -




8.00am I'm an hour late and the kayak is packed and I'm dressed ready for the water. I'm given 20ringgit for a drink and at Kuala Tahan.



The first morning sight.





The other two well they get breakfast at Camp Nusa and get to meet me at Hulu Tembeling some 80k away by road and 40k by water. 1pm is the RV time.


The camp site from the kayak as I dissappear round the corner.



Deer spore.




I cruise off and get about 500 meters and damn it the GPS fails losing satellites intermittently it comes back on. I find signs of a deer spore on the beach as I muck around with the GPS. People are camped all down here fishing its like a holiday resort not the wilds of Malaysia.



Kuala Tahan is reached at 9.00am and what an unsociable place. 35foot long boats everywhere 50+ all flying as fast as they can to show how good they can handle a boat - stuff it I just paddle on and find floating restaurant and yeah I pick the unfriendliest one they have no change for $10rm for a ICED MILO (Chocolate).



I drink and leave as fast as I can then the park ranger sees me and points frantically at the kayak in the water to the other rangers - I ignore them all and paddle off ignoring all the boats and everyone around me. Soon its peacful again and the signs of habitation slip by and I spot a group of netters and watch the net being cast wonderful pic and then to make my trip a pair of rare parrakets (which I later identify as ).



Kuala Tahan taxi boat parking only.




Kuala Tahan Water taxi and floating restaurant stops.




It's gonna be a long day no GPS but I know know if I paddle nicely I am moving at 7.4kph which means 70k in a 10 hour day. Little do I know whats going to happen next. It's all back to jungle both sides Taman Negara on the right and whatever on the left but its remote and no one is around except a pair of mating eagles I get a 30 second glipse at the sky dance.



The Asli family net fishing




Then a family of Asli's netting I stop watch and talk to them in Bahasa they are catching almost nothing and the catch in the plastic bag is almost non existant. My rations in the box are more than they would eat in a week.



Lunch is on the go I decide to drift along at 2.3k in the current and eat a tin of baked beans and tuna while I put my feet up for 15 minutes.



Cool I expect to meet the crew soon at marker K090. Well its 3pm and K090 (approximately 90-100k into the trip) comes and then there is phone signal and I here the phone go off.



Rats they are on the wrong side of the river and some 30k away from me and I have to get there as no pullout points. So I have 3 hours to do 30 kilometers before sunset. I step on it and I have no GPS I'm going by MAP navigation only. I stick to the right side of the river its shady and cooler than the stiffling heat in the middle of the river.



I get stuck several times as the right side appears to be the shallow side. Most of the time I am barely putting a whole paddle in the water and the ends of the paddle has got rips in it from the shallow water.

break

I get another message before phone comms drops out they have sent message via a passenger boat - I never get it. I pass an old man caulking a boat on a sand bar strange site. I scare many troops of monkeys as the kayak silently makes its way downstream even catching a troop on the river sandbanks. soon its 10k to camp and then I can get them on the radio and then everyone wants to talk to me on SMS (GF friends in KL) forget it I either paddle or I stop and SMS and paddling wins.



I can hear the radio but not talk as I only have the 0.5 watt radio so I am limited to 2k.



The storm cloud at 3.00pm at the K090 Gps point.



Old Fisherman caulking a small boat.




Ferry boats still running up to Taman Negara




A hand carved canoe out of a single log.

[geckoadventure]

Stuck again just when I catch a troop of monkeys on a sandbar.



Fish trap not being used.




Soon they can see me and the day is almost over (apart from that Thundercloud I saw forming at 3.00pm).

Damn this is a long way across whose idea was this?




Paddling damn hard to the point I was spent especially at the end of a long day.



They tell me to aim across the river to the jetty as they are on Sungai Pahang and Sungai Tembeling ends here. I'm almost to the jetty (200 meters away) and realise its two rivers merging and one is brown not mine.



As I hit the dirty larger river I'm swept downstream and suddenly I'm paddling with everything I have I know I can paddle at 10-11kph for about 100 meters then I'm spent in this kayak as its just too wide.



I paddle and paddle inching forward slowly so the current must be over 8k. The jetty gets closer and closer the radio does not shut up. Any time I stop paddling I'm swept away.



Soon calm water is reached I'm spent and friendly hands take the rope and tie the kayak off and I get a well earned beer. The distance well over 80k travelled in about 10 hours I'm exhausted.



Then 2 beers later the bad news we have been advised not to camp here there is a rock concert on tonite about 50 meters from us and too many undesirables around and our accommodation will be a government building with no water.



The crew showing off their beer cans.



We elect to do the madness thing I have to paddle back across the two rivers to the other side and the crew will drive around down to a bridge and up to meet me. By this time its dark so I paddle 100 meters up the river in the eddies and then cut acroos the big Pahang river in the darkness after 2 beers and then quietly paddle across Sungai Tembeling and beach the kayak and tie it off at the abandoned houseboat.



What a stupid idea but I do it anyway. A swim for a wash and cook dinner in the darkness.



Nice baked beans and curry chicken and corn all from a can and a hot chocolate. Just as I'm eating it the boys turn up its only taken them an hour they setup camp.



Soon camp is wrecked by that storm I saw forming and everything it everywhere except me as soon as it started raining I'm in the abandonded boathouse hahaha and the boys run in and out all nite getting cold beer from GREEN.



I drift off to sleep after 11pm and those two well they were up to 2am+ drinking beer.


So over 120K down (and 70k paddled today) and 270k to go.


break

Day 4 - Sunday



The Storm raged outside and I'm in the abandoned houseboat snug and warm and dry.



Peters last day he has to leave this morning. However, he delays his departure with a SMS with a Daves in trouble message hahaha.


We get up very late and I'm not in the water until 8.30am little do we know the significance of this mistake.


The abandoned boathouse and the mighty Sg Pahang in the background dirty and fast.




The support trucks lined up almost ready to roll.




A helping push to start my day all I need now is a engine.



The current is good and the water is up a little from the storm.



My GPS is working again I drift along at about 4-6k then the GPS dies.



Damn it's gonna be a long day but only 50k to a pullout point so we can go Kayak fishing tomorrow at a Dam.



A fisherman attends his empty net I cruise by silently ambushing Monkey Troops.




The monkeys are fun I silently stick to the shady bank they screech and howl warnings as you come past. Then the shocker is a huge marquette monkey (yeah the alpha male) right on the edge bugger he hissed and screeches at me I just - Bastard that's my job to scare you hahaha.



This is one big wide river



The morning is uneventful with a steady paddle and now signs of human life with river bank both sides being cleared for oil palm plantation and agriculture.



No GPS I navigate with maps only and roughly know where I am.

3k from lunch the radio comes to life wahoo they are at the bridge and soon its lunchtime right on time what do I have yup baked beans and corn and chicken curry again and hot cholocate.



What did the boys have well nice chinese breakfast and coffee in town.



Pulling in for lunch I hope its not beans again hahaha.




Meet the crew at 1.00pm at Jerantut some 30k down the river and then only another 20k to paddle and I can get pulled out and relax.

Lunch being cooked.



Peter still will not go home he elects to stay again and they will check the pull out point 2k down river and then another 20k further on as we have not previously recc'ed this part.



I pass them and paddle down the right side of the river it's now in the shade.



Several hours pass and then an SMS. Bad news they are at Kuala Krau and there is no pullout points so once again I have more than 30k to travel this time it looks like an extra 35kilometers from where I am. Faarrrrrrrrkk a quick calculation shows this will take me to just after sunset to complete.



Oh well just carry on.



The afternoon trip is a delight and very different to this mornings leg. Lots of corners and around every corner something different including headwinds and rock formations and the surprise - snakes baby cobras in the water and then water monitors huge ones everywhere and of course the troops of monkeys the kayak sneaks up on.







I take a break and drift along for 30 minutes not paddling just eating sultanas and power bars as the kayak cruises past an island the faster current pushing me along. Then a baby cobra to chase across the river. It takes of when it realises I'm after it.



What a wonderful sight a hand carved wooded canoe out of a single log still being used.




Soon its back to the relentless paddling and its almost sunset, fisherman abound on boats so I must be near civilsation. I pass a fishing family where u from - New Zealand. Where you go - PEkan.



Hey wait a minute those Asli spoke english hahahaha.



Soon there is a pair of hills sticking (looks like a girl I knew once - twin peaks) up I check the map aha I know that hill and where I am finally (Kuala Krau is directly to the right of the hill however the hills are 400 meters high) - I also know I'm about 15k out.




But it's almost dark I switch to use the IPhone as the LUMIX gets water in the lens . Just on Dark I see what looks like logs stuck in the water then the LOG comes straight at me what the hell - BANG it hits the kayak and then swims off then another - WTF swimming LOGS? - I work it out it's water monitors (up to 2 meters long) swimming upstream in the silty water they cannot see and are just below the surface plently of them swimming I learn and avoid hahaha.



The IPHONE takes a terrible picture in low light this is what I see at sunset.




Then suddenly it's dark and I still have over 10k to go. I drift for about 20 minutes and let my eyes get used to the darkness (any use of the phone or a torch ruins your nite vision for 5-10 minutes) and wait for the moon to rise.



Then I paddle again this time slowly at about 4-5k an hour. 90 minutes later I see bridge all lite up I get on the radio anyone there YUP YUP You are a 1k from me.

Peter has gone and Kantha is now the support. He shines a torch and I fix the position and aim for it.



Soon its 8.45pm and I'm at the pullout point and I hop out of the kayak pitch black and exhausted. However, we have a 200 meter haul with the kayak uphill to put it on the GREEN wagon. I fall 3 times carrying the kayak tripping over coconut shells and other rubbish.



Dinner is at a local restaurant and they ruin it for me by putting chilli on the chicken just great on chaffed lips. Bugger what a day I have completed what looks like over 80 killermeters again and paddled for 2 1/4 hours in the dark. I fall asleep and Kantha drives us not back to Kuala Lumpur but to Rompin where we are going KAYAK fishing tomorrow morning.



I wanna finish this trip I plan to come back in a month and continue - I give myself 3 days to do the remaining 200k and hopefully see more otters.



So in summary K180 marker was reached and I have to get to K403 on the GPS - in reality I have actually paddled over 200k as at K060 Gps point the distance was already 70k travelled.

We drive off into the night not for home but for a Dam on the East side of Malaysia (250k away). Drive on Kantha I'm sleeping wake me at Kuala Rompin - yup when you see the big sailfish mobile on the road.



And you thought this tale was over - it ain't there is one more day to go.

[geckoadventure]

Day 5 - Monday - Holiday


So 2am we arrive in a quiet little place Kantha has no idea existed in his own country once again the foreigner is playing tour guide. The GREEN truck is parked under a tree 3 meters from the dam and well over the water is 1 million stars from the milky way. We get the beds out and I put on the stereo Australian Music John WIlliamson - country music and I educate Kantha to music which is true camping music stories of Australia and its new moon the country side is alive in sureal colour. 5am we decide its sleep time.

8am we are up and heading for breakfast in town for me its going to be chinese I have had enough of baked beans and corn.

We run into some Rain Forest Challenge 2009 marshals what a fluke they are on the way to a logging contract and we chat for a while. They are shocked to find out where and the distance I have just kayaked. By 12.00pm we are back at the dam cold drinks and Ice and the kayaks in the water we are hunting Toman (the snakehead).

I give Kantha the Big Fishing kayak as its easy to paddle fast and take the 5 foot shorter Mini-x which is like driving a go-kart for me.

We cruise along and soon I spot a bunch of Toman fries and Kantha has never seen this before The Mum remains hidden then pops up but no amount of casting can make her take the lure.

In and out of the fallen and sunken logs we paddle getting stuck and unstuck.

The post morteum





Day 5 - The Night Before

10.00pm depart Kuala Lumpur the touring Dag Tiwok Kayak all loaded up on the ever faithful workhorse GREEN. Fuel and food and cold drinks in the fridge. I wonder how far I will paddle this weekend 200k would be a dream more like 140-160k? The goal is to paddle 220k or as far as I can towards the South China Sea in Pekan Pahang Malaysia from Kuala Krau 1k up past my endpoint (roughly kilometer 171) from the first part of the trip. This weekend I'm supported by another expat Robert who is an avid traveller of Malaysia.



The GPS is set and guides us towards GPSPoint TMNG111 whch is under a bridge on the river which Robert (my land support for this trip) does not believe exists on Sungai Pahang (Pahang River).

1.30am we cruise past Kuala Krau out the other side and a right turn and there is the bridge WOW so big eventually we squeeze past a locked gate in GREEN and pitch out camp under the bridge no need for a TARP and a hot drink and a Sustagen energy drink and its time for bed at 2.00am.


Day 5


6.00am Damn whats that horrible noise? oh RATS is the iPhone ALARM screaming get up get up.


Breakfast is cooked big tin cold baked beans, sustagen school energy drink andhot tea, final check of the kayak, put on the kit, sunscreen and load up 9 liters of water and we carry the kayak to the water and a quick RV of the maps and a lunchpoint is agreed on 40k south "Temerloh" in about 5 hours time. 7.25am I head for those first 4-5 wobbly strokes off 25 minutes later than I wanted.



Packing the kayak





That first wobbly paddle





I'm off on that mighty big river





It's nice cruising along I average 7.5k for the first hour then I have a toilet break at a little jetty however the current tips me over after I have lifted the skirt off I'm over and in standup its too deep real deep over my head deep under I go again. Spluttering I reach the bank 1 meter away and sink past my knees in SOFT MUD. It takes me over 15 minutes to empty the kayak and clean myself up and yeah go to the bathroom. My average speed plumets to 7k.



I decide no more stops and plan B is used. Recovering I stop to wash my glasses and spot a troop of monkeys and a troop of otters (family) under them however my noise makes them dissappear before I can take a picture. Wow otters cool really cool.



Salvage Crew?



It takes me the rest of the morning to get the average back up to 7.5k. I stick to the left bank it's shaded and the current is usually good, the middle is a mess of eddies which errupt and pull you around in circles and slow your progress.



Pleasant weather not hot and not cold. Then the best boat house I have ever seen 3 huge logs with a house built on top.







Soon I pass under the East Coast Expressway bridge at Lanchang wow not so big from down below.

East Coast Expressway Bridge





Then I pass a fish cage being transported on top of two 15hp boats

Fish Cage





I get a call from Robert have to reach the bridge yet - yes about 400 meters ago - oh rats I'm stuck at roadworks and cannot get to there for ages. He has had a sweet teh terrik (Tea and Mil with sugar) boiled in wood fired stove at a run down shack haha.







I continue on my downstream journey - I'm starving what's for lunch as I have almost paddled 40k talk about read my mind the phone goes "just before the Termerloh jetti lunch is right there" - cool and damn/rats its on the other side of the river 200 meters away and about a kilometer downstream.



Me from 800mm away via the camera lens at Temerloh





The pesky noisy ferry





Me arriving at Termeloh for Lunch!





This little guys was having lunch also mmmmmmmm insects.





And his buddy also





1.30pm and lunchstop is finally made - Wah step into knee deep mud and take my now dirty clothes into the restaurant bathroom to wash them. What luxury a 40foot log canoe is in the restaurant its upper class huge trees outside making this a pleasant place to stay for an afternoon. However, i'm on a quest and the South China Sea beckons. Lunch is the usual fare of sampling Nasi Goreng Ayam (Fried Rice and this time Shrimp) with an egg on top - my my delicious. I spend too long here and 1 hour 15 minutes later (1.45pm) I'm on my way with Camp to be somewhere near point 245k and 250k some 35k down the river to be confirmed by Robert when he reccies the area.



You think I can reach K260 hahaaha asks Robert?





Departing Temerloh.





Wahoo 11 minutes before sunset I slip down the side channel and there is camp.

[geckoadventure]

Camp








Sunset is 18:59 and no moon so I cannot be late. No sooner I start paddling than the current stops flowing as the river widens - RATS! I cruise on making good time in the slow current and paddle down the right this time which is also the road side and the river bank/cliff is adorned with scruffy buildings and rubbish .



Message at 5.00pm RV at 250K or 245K a quick calculation 245k I'm not going to make 250k before sunset.



A thunderstorm starts in the distance I wonder if I'm going to get wet or beat it. My back hurts there is something wrong with the seat and I'm tired and hungry 4 hours sleep is not enough with only 10k left to paddle. Phone goes again take far right hand channel at two islands as I pass fisherman after fisherman. TIme passes slowly as I race the thunderstorm and there is Robert snapping away happily the bright orange shirt a little beacon to aim at. I exit the water 6.47pm and at the K248 mark and struggle to get out of the kayak yet again the mud is horrendous i fall in and struggle to get out yet again I'm just tired I guesss. Not bad I have knocked off 36k in 4 hours wow and my average has increased to 7.6k per hour for the day.



Camp site is a disused ferry crossing point it has shelter but the toilets etc are destroyed. We pack the kayak onto the car for the dinner trip which is down in a little kampung where Robert got destroyed playing checkers with the locals this afternoon. Then we see why my back hurts the seat back has flipped over.



Nasi Goreng Udang again (Fried Rice and Shrimp) and Milo on Ice. I'm exhausted but we have to pull out the maps for the locals to view.



Soon its bed time I really gotta get some sleep. The kayak is unloaded again and prepared for tomorrow and I crawl into the sleeping bag and no alarm is set we both need sleep. 9.30pm and I'm asleep before I zip up the sleeping bag.

Day 6


7.00am wakeup and prepare breakfast yes baked beans cold and lots of brown bread and hot tea washed down with the usual sustagen school energy drink. Fix up Roberts stupid Nuvi 205W GPS which will not show any points kast K200 even after deleting points K005-200. We elect to use the maps for the land support. I'm finally on the way at 8.45pm. Lunch RV is to be K290 and the end goal today is K310 or close.



Wow scenic paddling little houses adorn the banks and people are fishing from every possible spot. Most people say hello and surprisingly most speak english doesn't matter I know enough Bahasa to communicate.

I whack in 8k for the first hour then the river flow slows. Cruising on the biggest bend of the whole trip (300+ meters wide) I realise too late and have paddled the long way round.

Phone goes as I paddle out of the bend - no food after K275 lunch will be early.



Me approaching Chenor from over a kilometer away.





Paddling back upstream as I drift too far down





Lunch restaurant.





Chenor from the kayak





The kayak after lunch





12.45pm I have padddled 28k in 3 hours Robert meets me at the jetty "Chenor". Wow nice old town right on the river reminds me of that Gerik rundown look. Lunch is Rice and Kurry Chicken no Fried Rice available here and Robert has the Patin (local fish) and rice. The locals were nice they thanked us for visiting their town.



They got a shock when Robert spoke bahasa to them

I'm back in the water 1.45pm RV at K315 or K320 and off cruising slowly little do I know whats going to happen next. 2.45pm I send the hourly update K280 passed "damn no signal". I cruise on there is almost no sign of life houses are indispersed every time I try to send an hourly update I get no signal - oops. I pass an otter barely 10 meters away he flips under a overhanging tree and I try and take clip of him then 2 more otters and a huge water monitor lizard which just watches as I slip by barely 5 meters from it. The little monitors however crash into the water from wherever they are 2-3 meters up a tree crash they drop straight into the water. Troops of monkeys everywhere and the river is now very wide.



Try and cross to the other side to change current is fraught with fun the middle is even more dangerous than before huge whirlpools erupt under you or in front of the kayak pulling it round even if you keep paddling.



Me leaving Chenor





Domestic rubbish wow aren't we clean people





The bank is the safest place. K300 passes and hunger sets in and I polish of a whole packet of Oreo biscuits for a 10 minute break. Still no reception. Under a large pair of trees a troop of monkeys sound the alarm and drop down the branches directly above me and scurry of I get a great view that I forget to get the camera out.



My arms ache a sign I have not eaten enough or just getting old.

Gunshots punctuate the afternoon until one stretch where the continuious blasts of a shotgun sounds like a shootout.

My average is slowing 7.5/7.4k/h K310 comes up and this would be a good place to stop and its 6.30pm but I cannot get hold of Robert I get a in message anmd then loose the signal .



My view just after sunset.



Paddle on to K315 and its almost dark as the sun sets at 6:58pm. K315 I get reception I'm at K316 on the right however I can see nothing it's pitch black I head over to the right and at K317.5 and still no reception again. Then the phone rings I'm now at K318 on the left at a Jetty - rats $@$@$#$@. I tell him to put the car lights out over the water so I can see them and start paddling the 300 meters across the river to the left and round a bend and there is a Jetty and a torch shines in my diretion and the beam hits me from 200 meters out.







Sanctuary at 8.05pm struggle out of the Kayak (the GPS telling me I'm almost at marker K320) in the swift current round the jetty and a batch and change of clothes load up the Kayak and press the "HOME" button on the Nuvi and the voice directs us out of Kampung Chini Jetty towards KL. A quick check of the GPS shows 148K for the weekend and 76 yesterday and 72 today the last 5k taking me over an hour to accomplish. So 83K left to the South China Sea target date for the 1 day sprint to the Sea is 30th October. I don't care I just want food and sleep. We find sustanence at Marang R&R old town and test the "you guessed it" Nasi Goreng Ayam.



12.00am Cruise into the driveway home having slept most of the way home. Unload the Kayak and leave the rest of the kit in the truck. I just fall asleep on the lounge and wake up 8.00am and cruise to work - its a different world.

[geckoadventure]

DAy 7 the night journey.

Pack the truck with the kayak and kit and then head to the jetty at tasik Chini point 2 and a halh hours away on Sungai Pahang and start paddling in the morning.

What could be more simple? Ya gotta be joking get home from a charity run at 5.00pm after loading up two tonnes of drinks and calling for assistance from friends to come bring my other truck from the workshop to put the extra remaining drinks into. Then I discover the GPS I had in my pocket at the fun run has a smashed screen its now out of this trip.

We prepare vehicle 1 for the trip - regas the air-conditioning first - 1 hour later we realise the air cond compressor is broken and the rear shocks are shot - ok vehicle number two then we load up the roof rack and the kayak on the ever faithful GREEN and the fridge and the kit and then have a meal and head off after loading up the GPS and preparing the two sets of maps, Ground crew and mine and writing all the GPS points out by hand for the ground crew.

Dinner then refuel and we are off - This will be fun give them a GPS point in a remote village and then fall asleep and let them survive. I am awaken 2am - we are here. No we are not I cannot see a MOSQUE or the JETTY we find someone awake and get slightly better directions. Ah Jetty - We decide to sleep in the outdoor badminton court shelter and it's cool. Sleep comes quickly for my still exhausted body.


Day 7

7.00am I'm awake - hey wait a minute how come I missed the mosque call to prayer at 5:40am I mussta been exhausted.






So we prepare and I'm in the misty water 8:05am over an hour late.


Meet you at lunch 1pm at K360 on the map thats 42k away according to the calculations.






The first few paddles are very wobbly I'm so used to playing the clown on the inflateable kayak for white water rescue for the past 6 months - whoa don't move my head I'm going to tip over haha - soon I'm in my stride and paddling along muscles aching from yesterdays physical effort still. Troops of monkeys can be heard and seen and baby water monitors are encountered. The morning moves along cool and I paddle in the shade on the south side trying to stay in the strong current where possible. I spy a water monitor struggling to swim upstream against the strong current. The river is empty no boats nothing very few houses or signs of life just me and and the mist then it heats up slowly.



I SMS the distance markers K330 passed, K340 passed . Then a visit from an eagle



looking for a morning snack and he gets buzzed by a small bird obviously protecting its nest. Then 11.20am a horrendours howl breaks the sound of burbling water aaaaaaaahh JETS low and fast cool out with the camera and I almost tip over twisting my head to catch a glipse of the Air force trainers flying at about 300 meters up. Cool they start doing big loops ones low and the wingman higher and slower but no aerobatics. I drop my paddle I have to retrieve it paddling after it by hand downstream and do not get good shots. Cannot tell if the Aermacchi MB-339 or the BAE Hawk Mk 108/208.



20 minutes later and the show is over and K350 is passed then I need food and I drift along with a can of sweet corn munching on the corn and a warm water.

I get a response meet you between K360 and K365 on the right we are at a jetty. It's hot so hot I am facing a constant problem of sweat in my eyes and my glasses.



Damned if I do not cruise past the "jetty" and the distinctive sound of my diesel landcruiser tells me they are behind me - it was not a jetty it was a fish farm so I did not stop hahaha. 500 meters later we meet up at stop at another fish farm and they help me out. Lunch is in the shade baked beans and corn again. Then a tin of tuna - oh dear its chilli tuna. Followed by a treat cold longans in ribina juice and ICE and cold water from the fridge. Then it's time to carry on 30 minutes are up. 14:40 back in the kayak and 5k behind schedule and also an hour down I might be finishing in the dark not a pleasant thought at the edge of the South China sea. I know I have been out in thunderstorms not plesant and I'm half way 43k to go an 4.5 hours of daylight left.

This disgusts me I watch it being tossed from a house out over the bank and into the water - respect nature and it respects you.



I'm better now not hungry and overfull still I make up good time the river gets wide slow and shallow and I vary left/right to follow the shade and the current and get stuck a few times on sand banks the water to silty you cannot see the bottom every until your paddle hits the sand and the kayak wobbles and then runs aground. The kayak has a nasty habit of wanting to turn left 3 times I run into the bank as the churning current pulls the kayak left then leaves me heading at the bank at speed oh shit. At K370 the wind comes up and hits me in the face no matter which direction I paddle then small waves. Once I plough into a tree backwards sending an SMS. Then I realise K380 and only 20 to go and its 5.30pm I might just make it in daylight - spurred on I get an SMS whike having a snack of corn - STAY RIGHT and avoid the islands there is 40 of them you will get lost. I move slowly right and SHIT i start encountering SAND MINING stations dangerous - PIPES and ropes everywhere and that SUCTION pump - I take care.


Despite being close to Pekan there is very little river activity most of it from riverbank fisherman but very few boats. Then it is a second visit from an eagle looking for dinner




Then I round a corner and I see the Pekan bridge shocked



Wow almost there and more sand mining stations to avoid.

Sandmining Stations



Under the bridge and its 6:58pm 15 minutes till sunset do I continue the 8k to the South China Sea (which means 2-3 more hours in a kayak with no skirt) or do I call it quits and beach at the alternate. I decide for saftey reasons with a heavy heart I decide the alternate which lands me at Petronas Fuel station Pekan.

The finish point



I have to come back another day to finish the 8k (this time I'm bringing a fishing rod for a day of fishing also) and I have paddled 74.3K today. No emotion just a little "YES" and my quest I wanted to do for the past 15 months is over. However, as far as I am concerned I will come back and paddle to the South china sea and back to this very point and bring my fishing rod and make it a fishing day out.

We load the kayak get changed and I get the bad news - GREEN has torn a rear shock mount completely of the axle and destroyed the shock and the mount. The other one is completey stuffed also. Before I fall asleep I plan the next adventure - Gunug Ais - Sungai Tekai headwaters to Hulu Tembeling - 3 days on the inflateable kayaks just for a challenge - I wonder whio will join me. I tell the crew then fall asleep.

Homeward bound I know nothing until I need a bathroom stop its 12.00am I so glad I have a good crew to look after me. They drop me home and unpack the truck for me and we go for coffee then a well earned sleep.

Into work the next day I send the email to the Seeing Is Believing patron - I owe Standard Chartered Bank Seeing Is Believing charity fund quite a bit of money.

Getting ready for the next trip already. Yup its planned 420+killermeters down 4 dams (200k) following Sungai Perak to the ocean.




Wiki Sungai Pahang and it has very interesting history. - Wiki Pahang River and there is almost nothing.

Finally I gotta thanks a few people, Peter (WD40), Kantha (Demontweeks), Robert (crazy teacher), Tappa (Tappa) without them I would be still sitting at the start line wondering how to get back to the car at the end of each day. I wonder how many drinks, smokes and beers they drunk in the 7 days.

signed GeckoAdventure.

ps to all you kiwis im trying to come home in 2012 I have 3 grade 5 rivers I want to riverboard.

[kbjj]

Interesting read. Looks owesome. Top effort. Might be keen to be part of a support crew for you here in NZ.
Jeremy

[cbfb]

Awesome read, bring back some happy memories of my time in the Taman Negara.