Offroad-Express

hmm, How do you ell a proper fullf floater from a converted one? I suspect my one may have been converted. The stub is welded on and there is four bolts that hold the backing plate for the drums on. Is this a proper full floater?

The rear stub axles on the full floater are fixed the same as the front stubs with about 8 bolts

Its only old style full floaters that have 8 bolts all the newer stuff(mid 1980s) has four bolts.

I had a look under my 70 series truck and it does have only 4 bolts and not the 8 that the earlier ones had


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interesting. Mine could have been off a later wagon than I thought. It may explain the bigass drums. I already cut them off though, discs for me

If its a later housing it may be a different width to your origional housing?

60/2 Series axles are 70mm wider than 40 series.
70 Series axles are 20mm wider than 40 series.

http://www.off-road.com/tlc/faq/axle.html

its being implanted into a land rover so it wont matter, much. It has already been modified for a land rover SUA. So when I weld the hilux head in, Ill just put it in the wrong way and make it SOA

Just bear in mind, that if you turn the diff over ,it will more than likely turn the rotation of the wheels to the oppersit direction? Check it out first.

Also the oiling in the Diff is not designed for this ,so the diff will starve for oil.

thought about this. The diff can be turned 180 degrees. If I left it upside down, it would be turning backwards.

I think that if you cut two new cutouts in the houseing where the ringgear passe's thro , you could turn the diff over, then refit the diff head back in the correct way.

2 more things, Oil level plug would to low, & the houseing would need to be belted out to give it clearence with ring gear.

I get what you're saying. Might just have to move the perches instead

Hey Turoa, I forgot if your diff was a proper fullfloater it wont have the removeable pumpkin on the back of the housing.
Cheers