Offroad-Express

Got us a new safari last week. Have got a lwb low roof auto.
Now the bloody radiator has decided to fall to bits.

I can get a good condition second hand one to replace it but is for a manual. new truck has an external trans cooler and am wondering if can run trans oil just though that without going via the radiator?

should be able to. just link the two pipes together (pipes that went into the rad)

yep done that . was wanting to know if it will have enough cooling for the oil. cooler is 280mmx200mm.

As long as it is big enough to do the job your trans will be fine just running throu the cooler with out going into the raditor

Just had a auto cooler put in my GU, was told to go through the radiator as well as it helps warm the transmission intially.

just get ya radiator recond or buy a new one.
they aint to pricey these days

A few facts.
The factory trans cooler is the cause of a lot of auto meltdowns. As the auto ages the linings wear and the particles that are shed are too big for the factory cooler so slowly it gets blocked.

The very first thing you should do with every Patrol / Safari / Terrano is bypass the factory cooler, ie the one in the radiator.

What you should do is fit a very large aftermarket one and the auto will last much longer.
Anyone who tells you to keep the fatory cooler to warm the auto has missed a point. The auto warms up faster than the engine and the auto should be run at a colder temp than the engine coolant. Ideally the auto fluid should be under 80* C and the engine coolant is regulary above this!!!
Keep your auto cool and everything else will be OK.

So fit a manual radiator and get a big cooler. The once Repco etc sell as being for 4x4 or V8's are the minimum and I ran two of them in my truck. That then kept the auto at around 60* to 70* most of the time. And this was a Safari with just under 400kw. It wasn't a standard auto but not that far off in reality)

What you should do is fit a very large aftermarket one and the auto will last much longer.
Anyone who tells you to keep the fatory cooler to warm the auto has missed a point. The auto warms up faster than the engine and the auto should be run at a colder temp than the engine coolant. Ideally the auto fluid should be under 80* C and the engine coolant is regulary above this!!!
Keep your auto cool and everything else will be OK.

this exactly what my thoughts were.

So fit a manual radiator and get a big cooler.

this is what i have done. nice to know i've got it right.Phew.
BTW the trans and torque converter was done 1000ks before i got it so sweet

ull find the most common reason for transz stuffin out are
cause they are either have been abused or never get there trans flushed and filter changed

Most abuse results in over heating. Increase the cooling and you can abuse more with no damage. eg The auto I have has been abused about as much as you can. When it was behind the TD42 and was still full auto, I'd use high range in the mud. Off the line I'd brake hard and give full throttle. It would get to 2,000 rpm and 14psi BEFORE the wheels turned! After 18 months (and many winch challenges) of doing this it was stripped as the input was getting change to suit VH45 and there was NO signs of heat or damage internally.
That same auto (with different valve body and input shaft) then ran for 2 years with 390kw in front of it and didn't over heat at all. It is about to get stripped again to change a bent piece in it (don't ask!) so will get checked out again.

So I agree total, abuse and poor service kills them but heat is the killer and can be controlled.

so from that the autos are strong enough to handle 15psi ?
Am currently trying to sell my turbo'd shorty but if doesn't sell soon will put turbo across to the lwb. but don't wann till i know it'll handle it.

As said trans and converter were done 1000km ago and a external cooler fitted.

Yes to a point. For normal use then I'd say the standard trans is more than safe even at up to about 20psi. I ran mine with 20psi as a work truck for several years before it became a toy. When it was stripped the clutches were worn but that was all, nothing else was damaged.
BUT if you're going to work it hard etc then I'd suggest the clutches need to be upgraded to VH45 ones. That increases the pack from 5 to 7 which is quite an increase.
The gears etc are all the same so no problems there.
The biggest weakness for increase hp (besides over heating) is the torque convertor. When it is rebuilt it needs to have the spline strenthened (basically extra welding) and then it is only heat that will kill it.
A good modification is to fit a shift kit to the Valve body. This reduces slip on gear changes and increases line pressuree a bit.

So basically if you have a Safari auto apart it should be fitted with all the VH45 internals (eg clutches) as there is basically npo increased cost and they are a big upgrade. And if the torque convertor gets done it should have the spline strengthened.
After that all you need is a valve body and you are then good for up to 450kw. The only real cost over a rebuld is the VB too! (but not much help if you've already rebuilt it)

cool thanks for that. Has given some food for thought.

Next question. How exatly do i fit a lock up switch. Wanna stop it from engaging when towing the digger and driving on twisting roads(Real pia!!)

Is i a simple case of putting a switch in the line? If so what colour wire am i putting it on.?Have done the search but all the topics go off on tangents

Have a look at this web page. This is a very good mod.

http://www.chaz.yellowfoot.org/Lockup%20Trans%20Switch.htm

If you replaced the control relay in this system with a three position relay you could have:

converter locked
converter controlled by trans computer
converter full-time unlocked

I sourced all my components from Jaycar electronics on-line shop and it cost about $200 delivered to my door.

bit complicated for me. Not that good with electonics,they confuse the hell outa me . But thanks anyhow.
So if i put the switch on the green wire it'll do what i want?
Just wanna stop truck from hunting when on winding roads and to stop going into lockup when towing

Yeah a switch in the wire will work. May not be green colour wire though. that wiring diagram is for a 3.0 GU so a GQ may be different. It would pay to see if anyone has a wiring diagram for a GQ and confirm the wire colour. Your public library should have a manual that you could check as well.

sweet thanks. will check it out