Offroad-Express

looking at buying a new suspension kit for the jeep (2001 wrangler) something so i can fit 33 or 35s and with could flex. What are the best kits to buy and what else do you need to change when doing this?

dude, dont want to sound rude, but how many ways are there to ask the same question?

there are many ways

I run 33s with a 2 inch Old Man Emu lift and trim an inch or so off the outer plastic guard so the outer edge of tire doesn't clip it when it comes up, has plenty of flex for what I do with the club

no rubbing anywhere , I think you're asking for trouble on 35s and not doing other upgrades underneath, like I suggested in your other thread, thats my 2cs anyway

i was thinking of getting a 4-6inch lift?

http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=rustys&Product_Code=RK-550LT-TJ&Category_Code=sus_tj_kit

Don't muck around, get something like this. Cheap with shitloads of flex. Dunno how strong they are but a blat on groogle should yield some answers.

churchill wrote:http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=rustys&Product_Code=RK-550LT-TJ&Category_Code=sus_tj_kit

Don't muck around, get something like this. Cheap with shitloads of flex. Dunno how strong they are but a blat on groogle should yield some answers.

THAT IS COOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It gets rid of those stupid short jeep radius arms, and replaces the dumb ass transfer case guard mount shit catcher thingy all in one go!!!!

I might need to sell the wifes Vitara and get her a TJ Wrangler

shit yea that looks like the go Was also looking at skyjacker kits, any good?

Its important to consider those kits are made for LHD and yours is RHD, mine's got a Rubicon Express 5.5" long arm with underbody armour kit in it and i can tell you ordering your kits is only the beginning of where you'll be going afterwards. There's a shipload of alignment and setting up to do, cutting, welding, bending, being pissed off, arguing about bills for dodgy work, aligning, tightening cutting, bending, welding, swearing, cursing, arguing about bills and finally laughing all the way to the nut house. then you get to argue for weeks with the certifier if you want to drive it up the road.

Then you get your 35's on and start busting stuff, even though you've got no power so you try everything and finally change your diff ratios to 4.88s to compensate for the big tyres which means you need new carriers too so you get ARBs "while you're down there". Then buy compressor etc. to make them work.

Then you give it a big punt up some hill somewhere and unbelievably fly over the top and forget to drop your foot off. You now have no teeth left on your front crownwheel. So, many many thousands of dollars and and hours later, you arrive at the conclusion you'd have been better off to buy a set of really good 31's, make a smooth belly pan, fit a doubly powerful winch and gone wheeling still way better than most.

Leave the lift in the supermarket car park and get a pair of tinsnips if you want to go to 33's because that's as big as you can cheaply go. Cut until you get clearance or lift the body an inch if you have to.

Or pay me $20k for a road legal truck that's got it all and $20k wouldn't even pay for a quarter of it. The brand new Dana 44 front cost half of that. It gets you a truck that will get a braver driver than me into and back out of some places no one could ever imagine. I might even trade your TJ. cheers, Gordon

rugged ridge ,skyjacker....
got one on the xj ,,all good... heres a tj one ''



http://www.offroadspecialties.co.nz/node/374

Flash2004 wrote:Its important to consider those kits are made for LHD and yours is RHD, mine's got a Rubicon Express 5.5" long arm with underbody armour kit in it and i can tell you ordering your kits is only the beginning of where you'll be going afterwards. There's a shipload of alignment and setting up to do, cutting, welding, bending, being pissed off, arguing about bills for dodgy work, aligning, tightening cutting, bending, welding, swearing, cursing, arguing about bills and finally laughing all the way to the nut house. then you get to argue for weeks with the certifier if you want to drive it up the road.

Then you get your 35's on and start busting stuff, even though you've got no power so you try everything and finally change your diff ratios to 4.88s to compensate for the big tyres which means you need new carriers too so you get ARBs "while you're down there". Then buy compressor etc. to make them work.

Then you give it a big punt up some hill somewhere and unbelievably fly over the top and forget to drop your foot off. You now have no teeth left on your front crownwheel. So, many many thousands of dollars and and hours later, you arrive at the conclusion you'd have been better off to buy a set of really good 31's, make a smooth belly pan, fit a doubly powerful winch and gone wheeling still way better than most.

Leave the lift in the supermarket car park and get a pair of tinsnips if you want to go to 33's because that's as big as you can cheaply go. Cut until you get clearance or lift the body an inch if you have to.

Or pay me $20k for a road legal truck that's got it all and $20k wouldn't even pay for a quarter of it. The brand new Dana 44 front cost half of that. It gets you a truck that will get a braver driver than me into and back out of some places no one could ever imagine. I might even trade your TJ. cheers, Gordon

Well there's your strength answer, sounds like the kits are strong but the diffs are weak with large rubber and aftermarket gears on them. A call to the local certifier to discuss options beforehand would be a good idea as well. So it's no as easy as ordering the right parts and installing them?
I own a vitara so can relate to what happens when you hold full throttle with front wheels in the air.
Do you have any photo's?

churchill wrote: Well there's your strength answer, sounds like the kits are strong but the diffs are weak with large rubber and aftermarket gears on them. A call to the local certifier to discuss options beforehand would be a good idea as well. So it's no as easy as ordering the right parts and installing them?
I own a vitara so can relate to what happens when you hold full throttle with front wheels in the air.
Do you have any photo's?

Forgotten how to do photos on this forum, seems a convoluted exercise?

http://images.trademe.co.nz/photoserver ... 3_full.jpg
so heres a picture of my jeep anyway. i have a bit over 5k to spend on it what would be the best thing to upgrade?

buy lockers forget about all the other stuff and go places you never imagined you could go

You can get Chinese air lockers for US$400-US$450 each. A cheap way to go if your not into competition. You supposedly have to watch out for breaking axles and cv's in the front end with lockers.

skid wrote:buy lockers forget about all the other stuff and go places you never imagined you could go

In my opinion front lockers are very dangerous the way they make the front swing violently to whichever side as soon as momentum is lost on a hill climb if they're engaged. Then over you go, which might be fine in a competition truck but most Jeep owners would try to avoid it.

Its no secret most 4x4 rollovers outside of competition are from failed attempts to climb something.

if you do a lot of rock crawling, get a front locker, but a rear one is excellent value.

Flash2004 wrote:

skid wrote:buy lockers forget about all the other stuff and go places you never imagined you could go

In my opinion front lockers are very dangerous the way they make the front swing violently to whichever side as soon as momentum is lost on a hill climb if they're engaged. Then over you go, which might be fine in a competition truck but most Jeep owners would try to avoid it.

Its no secret most 4x4 rollovers outside of competition are from failed attempts to climb something.

if you do a lot of rock crawling, get a front locker, but a rear one is excellent value.

I agree Gordon, front lockers are awesome in ruts when theres no chance of sideways movement, otherwise just use the rear

I did mention in his other thread about the same topic that maybe he should just go and drive the Jeep more and maybe learn a bit more about it and its capabilities

skid wrote:

Flash2004 wrote:

skid wrote:buy lockers forget about all the other stuff and go places you never imagined you could go

In my opinion front lockers are very dangerous the way they make the front swing violently to whichever side as soon as momentum is lost on a hill climb if they're engaged. Then over you go, which might be fine in a competition truck but most Jeep owners would try to avoid it.

Its no secret most 4x4 rollovers outside of competition are from failed attempts to climb something.

if you do a lot of rock crawling, get a front locker, but a rear one is excellent value.

I agree Gordon, front lockers are awesome in ruts when theres no chance of sideways movement, otherwise just use the rear

I did mention in his other thread about the same topic that maybe he should just go and drive the Jeep more and maybe learn a bit more about it and its capabilities

You're right, but a lot of us are into the look too. I reckon there's not much more weird looking than a standard Wrangler. In terms of capability though....
I wish I could figure out how to put photos up in here? its easy in any other forums i belong to? WTF i see the "IMG" button but it does nothing I can see? Who will give me a clue?