Offroad-Express

Well I started off looking into putting in a commy V6 but in the end theres no replacement for displacement... I now have a 350 chev with 700r4 trans mated to a 78 series prado transfer sitting on the floor of the shed awaiting its new home

Now for the questions! I have the transfer in bits so i can install the pto gear to drive my winch, It seems pretty easy so far but I do remember a post on here detailing it that seemed really good. It might just be me but the forum search function here is annoying and I cant find anything!
Also can the transfer operate in low 4 without the vacuum solenoid set up?

Ive seen a few 70s on here with 350's but would be keen to see some pics of your alternator/power steer setups and also any pics of the engine mounts you guys have used as Im starting from scratch.

Cheers,
Kent

come around home and have a looksee, best that i can say

oh yeah bring a camara as there no real science to it once you see how its done

Sounds like a plan, Im out west and dont make it out south much but will see whats happening this weekend and try get out there. Will send pm Cheers

mayday wrote:Now for the questions! I have the transfer in bits so i can install the pto gear to drive my winch, It seems pretty easy so far but I do remember a post on here detailing it that seemed really good. It might just be me but the forum search function here is annoying and I cant find anything!

we did my flatdeck one a few months back, easiest way to do it is to stand the trans on end so its easier to work on, just follow your nose and its pretty simple, you'll need the short spacer as well as the drive gear

mayday wrote:Also can the transfer operate in low 4 without the vacuum solenoid set up?

without the vacuum diaphram you'll only get L2

mayday wrote:
Ive seen a few 70s on here with 350's but would be keen to see some pics of your alternator/power steer setups

power steering you just use a std chev power steer pump and get a hose made up to fit the Toyota steering box, there are heaps of different alternater setups, up high on the drivers side is pretty standard and helps keep them out of the mud

havent got an alternater pic handy (edit: check out my avatar) but heres a standard chevy power steering pump setup, they usually mount off the waterpump in a little cradle bracket

mayday wrote:and also any pics of the engine mounts you guys have used as Im starting from scratch.

I first started off with one of these in my flatdeck, it bolts onto the front of the engine around the timing cover and picks up the origional cruiser mounts but it twisted and I was always breaking bolts and the engine would rest on the firewall, I think Wop is still using the same type of setup and hasnt had any problems so far




I ended up geting some captive mounts made up, they were made for a standard 3 bolt chevy setup but have now been modified for a later engine 4 bolt pattern





My 40 series cruiser has had new brackets made up and uses standard chev engine mounts

Thanks Saddam, I think i will end up with something like the mounts on your 40 as I have similar chev mounts already on my block. I have removed the old loom from my truck as 95% of it was useless to me now so I might have to re fit just the solenoids to control the transfer case... Do one of the sensors on the side of the transfer tell the vacuum solenoid when to engage??

nice pics Sadam

might have to steal that idea of the captive mount will stop the engine tourque twist that shits all the standard chevy mounts thus then requiring a chain to stop the engine from moving

are you able to pm me those pics please

cheers

when you push the 4WD switch on the dash it activates the solinoids and engagues H4, if you dont push the 4WD switch and put the transfercase into L4 it activates a switch on the back of the transfercase and that activates the solinoids to engague 4WD


I'll find you some more pics mudlva but I'm dialup so its painfully slow

hay Sadam
no wories about the pics

i found that i can copy straight off the page it self so all done

and dial up does suck, its a whole new world on braodband

cheers

and mayday im home basicly all weekend if you want a look

shit I've uploaded them all now heres all the captive mount pics I can find, so long as they are an enclosed bush they can be made however you want to make them fit

you the man alright

i will be coping all them across now as well

super cheers

tis the project for next year and changing my existing mounts is one many jobs but i was strugling for ideas

most of the other captive mounts I've seen have been much the same as my 40 series mounts but with an enclosed bush instead of a std chev engine mount

standard s/b chev mounts are notorious for destroying them selves.i run BB chev locking ones and havn,t destroyed one for about 12 years .will bolt straight up to a small block ,only difference is they are a little bit thicker but can still fit into place if you already are using s/b ones

I have the locking style mounts but I think I might build captive ones like saddams, they look quite simple and solid.

Best thing to use for the captive mounts is trailing arm bushes (patrol, surf, etc) an weld them to a plate on your block. Ive used nolethane patrol trailing arm bushes in mine. Theyre ok if you dont mind the whole truck vibrating at idle

Sadam_Husain wrote:shit I've uploaded them all now heres all the captive mount pics I can find, so long as they are an enclosed bush they can be made however you want to make them fit

Ok im now looking at building my mounts

there is quite a bit of stress on the actual engine block with the way the arms are creating leverage and a ripping type of preasure on the block mounting area

have you seen any forms of stress with your engines?

i do like the idea

just want to do the homework before i start

cheers Rohan

mudlva wrote: Ok im now looking at building my mounts

there is quite a bit of stress on the actual engine block with the way the arms are creating leverage and a ripping type of preasure on the block mounting area

have you seen any forms of stress with your engines?

i do like the idea

just want to do the homework before i start

cheers Rohan

nah never broken any mounting bolts or anything with them, I did when I had one of those sadle brackets mounted on the front of the engine around the timing cover but thats long gone. You dont have to build your mounts the same way, you could reverse them and fix the arms to the chassis and put the bushes up closer to the engine to reduce the leverage

I'm not sure that there will be stress of any sort on the block itself, as the block is tapered at the mounting point so the only real force the block is under is the 6 bolts holding the mounts to the block and the weight of the motor, the rotational force (longitudinally) is born by the trans mounts. the torque twist is both in compression and extension on the chassis rail and the rubber captive mount.
If you have the rubber mount on the motor side, you are a little closer to hot exhaust and in a more awkward spot to do up.

I also have to mount a 350 into a small toyota chassis and i'll be making mounts like this, nice and simple. very functional.

My 2c any how..

I ended up making mounts welded direct to the chassis and using factory big block chev locking mounts to hold mine. The way it ended up it kinda sits in a v shaped cradle between the chassis rails and locks in there nice and tight. Only time and abuse will tell now! Will try take some pics and post here.

mayday wrote:I ended up making mounts welded direct to the chassis and using factory big block chev locking mounts to hold mine. The way it ended up it kinda sits in a v shaped cradle between the chassis rails and locks in there nice and tight. Only time and abuse will tell now! Will try take some pics and post here.

I have broken several big block mounts in my current truck until i installed chain links to stop the tourque ripping them apart thats why im looking at something completely differant in my next truck. I will use saddams susgestions and install the bush mount a bit closer to the engine mount. Just concerned that if you get air under the front when coming out of a big hole thst the impact landing will put big stress on the engine mounts. In a conventual setup the mount point takes no stress loadings and basicly the motor just sits in a craddle with fixed arms the bolts are now in a lot more tensile stress and all the loaad is now being taken by the block thread. This. Can be over come by moving the rubber mounting closer into the motor which is proberly the road that i will take
Regarding the rubber mount i wad thonking of using the bushes that go into Y60 control,radius arms. Do you think they will be strong enough?

mudlva wrote:Regarding the rubber mount i wad thonking of using the bushes that go into Y60 control,radius arms. Do you think they will be strong enough?

Thats what ive used in mine, pretty much the same design as Saddsams ones, except I set my chassis mounts inside the chassis rail so they are on close to the same angle as the block (about 45 degrees). I think this will greatly reduce any stress on the block mounting bolts

The patrol bushes will be plenty strong enough although theyre pretty stiff an transfer all the engine vibrations thru to the chassis an body..

Cheers Fakey

thats what i was after

thunder birds are go