Offroad-Express

So i spent most of the weekend getting the g16a ready to put into my sj413 (using one of bens kits).
Anyway i've dropped it in but can't get the engine tight against the gearbox no matter how hard i push .
It will get to about 15mm from the gearbox all around or one side together and the other further apart (25mm ish).
BTW i've never swapped an engine before so have no idea if im doing something realy wrong
Any ideas greatly appreciated,
Cheers
Dean

Is the clutch aligned correctly?

did a gearbox removal on a gran vitara for a clutch job, bolting it back together the engine earth cable dropped between bell housing and engine block didn't want to bolt together either

You haven't got extra dowels (metal pins usually about 8-10mm in diameter) in the bell housing? Sometimes you end up with 1 in the bellhousing and 1 in the block, This will give you about a 20mm gap.

Good luck.

nstacey wrote:Is the clutch aligned correctly?

I used a clutch alignment tool, looks to be all lined up, but how much would it have to be out to mess it up?

coxsy wrote:did a gearbox removal on a gran vitara for a clutch job, bolting it back together the engine earth cable dropped between bell housing and engine block didn't want to bolt together either

will go flat on both sides...almost pivoting in the middle

tomsoffroad wrote:You haven't got extra dowels (metal pins usually about 8-10mm in diameter) in the bell housing? Sometimes you end up with 1 in the bellhousing and 1 in the block, This will give you about a 20mm gap

'pretty sure i took these out but will check that tomorrow.

Cheers fo the ideas guys

Is your pressure plate in the correct way round? it may be able to bind on the input shaft?
Is there a spigot bearing in the flywheel? Is it the right size for the input shaft of the gearbox?

I found the spigot bushing on my sj flywheel to be very tight.
Was having the same problem as you
I just put the top two bolts in as far as i could and hit the back of the gearbox down with a rubber hammer.
But i'm a rough c**t , you probably shouldn't do that

Put the gearbox in gear and rotate the rear drive shaft while pushing forward on the gearbox, this will help engage the spline on the gearbox input shaft with those on the friction plate.

Could possibly be that they aren't lined up properly yet.

Zooker wrote:I found the spigot bushing on my sj flywheel to be very tight.
Was having the same problem as you
I just put the top two bolts in as far as i could and hit the back of the gearbox down with a rubber hammer.
But i'm a rough c**t , you probably shouldn't do that

just dont hit too hard, ive seen the bolt lugs things on the bellhousing snap off before..

are the spigot bearings the same size?

did you rotate the shaft to start the splines as pete mentioned?

if you have had bolts in trying to clamp it up you most likely have farked the friction plate centre

away this weekend end, if you have no luck PM your details and will come have a look
did the same conversion a couple of years back

Bob

DieselBoy wrote:Put the gearbox in gear and rotate the rear drive shaft while pushing forward on the gearbox, this will help engage the spline on the gearbox input shaft with those on the friction plate.

Could possibly be that they aren't lined up properly yet.

wopass wrote:are the spigot bearings the same size?

if you have had bolts in trying to clamp it up you most likely have farked the friction plate centre

Id say these two would be on the money.

Cheers Daniel

I fitted my sj box the other weekend. Had the same issue and it was just getting the splines all lined up, I've always found it to be that issue. Don't wind it together with the housing bolts, can do what wop said or it can strip the threads in the block. It is nice to have someone else help as keeping that stupid dust guard in position, holding the box and turning the driveshaft can be a mongrel on your own.

All the bits can only bolt up one way i thought too.

Try loosening gearbox mount bolts (without removing them all the way) if you havent already to allow more flex in gearbox for alignment, and as others have said turn driveshaft while pushing engine back

Why would you want to turn the drive shaft when fitting Engine ?, much easier to put in gear and rotate the crankshaft using the front pulley or fan if belt fitted while keeping weight pushing back on motor. One of the best engine fitting tools I have used is a 6ft length of 4x2 , used between a cross member and front pulley.

WORKS FOR ME,

FITZY.

So not a very successful weekend on it

Tried rotating the engine to get the splines lined up, think i got it once but couldn't get it pushed in as i was doing it myself.

It does appear to be getting closer, but wanting to know if it has to lined up exactly before trying to push it onto the splines, or if i can push it up to the splines then get the splines lined up then get it in line with the input shaft (if you know what i mean )

SMOKEY, that idea with the piece of 2x4 helped alot, was just a tad difficult to work it with my knee/foot while pushing on the engine!

Cheers for the ideas guys, much appreciated
Dean


P.S
If i don't have any joy over the next couple of days i'll send you a PM Bob, thanks alot for the offer

was there any rust or crap on the input shaft spigot thing??
and little bit of rubber grease on there can help heaps...

if theres rust spots or anything give it a light sand off,same deal with the dowels and dowel holes...bit of grease on them can really help...

What angle is the engine at? I had to jiggle mine around on the engine lift to make it suit. Be careful with the gearbox mount as it can snap off it your not careful and it gets free

And yeah right before I threw my toys it went together

Rubber grease sounds like it would help (just googled what it is )

The engines still hanging on the chain block so i can move it to whatever angle is required, been up and down so much ive taken a bit of paint off where the chains running over the body, whoops.

Toys have almost been thrown once or twice lol....

Its in! Almost...................

Grease helped alot, have now got it in and tightened up the first 3 bolts fine,then had about 5mm to go when it got really tight on the last bolt (top left, by the starter) .
Its feeling like i could tighten it with a breaker bar, but with all the warnings i've got about overtightening i don't really want to do that just yet.

So is this normal?

Also I figured I was on the splines by being unable to turn the crank once it felt like it slipped onto them, would that be right?

Cheers for putting up with the noob questions and giving such helpful tips,

Dean

sounds like you're definitely in the splines, probably going in the spigot bearing now. tighten evenly oppisate to opisate on bolts, a couple of turns at a time. You did check the spigot bearing fits on the input shaft aye? Also your clutch fork is right back? The release bearing is right? sometimes if its to tall you'll be fighting the box in against the clutch cover trying to engage the clutch.

if they go real tight something must be wrong, make sure you dont try to turn to tight as can easily strip the threads

shame you don't live closer, I'd come give you a hand, altho if you dont have it in by end of august I'm down in chch then so could hah

so is it just one bolt that wont tighten up nicely or is the bellhousing face 5mm from the block??
if its just the bolt and not the bellhousing i wouldnt be too concerned,the bolt may have some crap on it thats damaged the thread or blocked the thread up...take it out and spray in some crc or wd40 or something to help it.
glad too hear the greae helped abit...

no one ever thinks to lube the input spline/spigot bearing and dowels...

You haven't used a long bolt where a short one should be used?

are the 3 bolts you have tightened all on one side? might be worth loosining them off so you don't pull it hard in on one side and put to much pressure on the other side. As above if all the bolts are started in the thread try and do them evenly as oposites. You may want to do them all so they are all half in, then all 3/4 in and then fully tighten them. If you crank one side up fully tight it'll be a mission to pull the otherside in flush.